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Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by VagPro, Sep 25, 2011.

  1. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Hi guide doesn't call for Wd40

    Guide for checking hydraulic fluid level on link on page 1, basically max when roof is open.

    If it's low then it needs topping up, buy fluid from Audi or TPS.

    Clear the codes, what reappears ?

    Regarding the roof opening by itself have you got any aftermarket controllers fitted, wonder if there is water in the roof control module.

    Regards
     
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  3. Springer*

    Springer* Member

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    Thanks for the reply.

    So are you saying that the hydraulic fluid level should be on max when the roof is open, and if its any less then it needs to be topped up?

    I have not got any aftermarket controllers fitted. As far as I know its completely standard.

    How would I know if there was water in the roof control module? Where would I be looking?

    J:)
     
  4. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Yes fluid level on max when roof fully open.

    Get a VCDS scan done, control module is behind RHS rear door card.

    Regards
    Khurrum
     
  5. ShropshireMike

    ShropshireMike New Member

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    Did this yesterday as roof has been playing up since the winter. Usually it only opens an inch or two then stops. It's fully operational now after a clean up of the contacts. Many thanks for a great post.
     
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  6. MitchGriffin

    MitchGriffin New Member

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    Hi VagPro,

    Boy, I wish you were in the US! I am happy to send you some $ for guidance via PayPal. My issue:

    Just bought a B6 S4. No warning lights at all. Owner says they put the top down two days before i picked it up, Anyway, first time I tried to put the top down, the windows dropped....then nothing. No releasing of the top at the header. Now, all I get is the yellow flashing top warning when I start the car. It flashed about 10 times, then goes away.

    I removed and checked the two fuses (30 and 35 I believe). I checked for codes with an OBDII reader and there is nothing. After removing and inserting the fuses, they same thing happened one time - windows dropped, then the yellow flashing light. Now, nothing at all happens (no window drop when I try the switch). If I have the top storage in the wrong position in the boot, I get a warning for that. If I try the top switch when moving, I get a warning for that. Nothing else.

    I manually opened and closed the top. Same thing....nothing!

    Any advice would be much appreciated!

    Mitch
     
  7. Arcer

    Arcer Member

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    OOOOOOOK tank you :D I've made my day...I LOVE YOU!!!
     
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  8. MitchGriffin

    MitchGriffin New Member

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    I had the VAGCOM read this morning:

    2 faults found
    01618 - Automatic convertible top valve 2 (N272)
    009 open or short to ground
    01984 - Power Convertible top valve 2 (N341)
    009 open or short to ground

    These were reset and came back immediately.

    Any suggestions?
     
  9. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Hello Mitch,

    Sorry I seem to have missed your original post, anyway it is good that you have code a VCDS scan and are checking for residual codes. Refer to the wiring diagram on page 1 of this post. N272 and N341 are the solenoid valves on hydraulic pump unit, I do not believe it is possible for both of them to go faulty at the same time.

    1) Check the resistance across all three valves and see if this is consistent
    2) Check the earthing to the valves
    3) Check the wiring from the valves to the roof control module (located behind RHS rear door card)

    The same problem has been reported twice, once due to loose wiring see #402 and another due to a faulty roof module (cant find the post).

    I hope its the latter.

    Regards
    Khurrum
     
  10. MitchGriffin

    MitchGriffin New Member

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    Thanks so much... My guy that did the scan thought this could be caused by water in the control module. I will probably start there if you agree.
     
  11. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Personally Id say it easier to get to the hydraulic pump in the boot as all you need to remove in the boot lining.

    Regards
     
  12. MitchGriffin

    MitchGriffin New Member

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    OK.... I worked in the trunk. All the valves tested identical. I did it first with each unplugged, then plugged them in and tests through the plug. Same readings on all three. I cleaned all the connections and "Tweaked" the relay plugs just a touch to make sure everyhting had a good connection. Since I had it apart, I went ahead and cleaned the armature on the motor. Everything looked great. Put it all back together....same thing...yellow flashing light but nothing happened.

    I started to work on the control module. What a task! I got the headrests out (after a struggle). What else has to come out to get the seat back out so I can take the "door" panel off? I only see the two bolts at the bottom, but the back certainly does not want to move. Any tips?

    . Would I need to have the codes reset for the top to work if everything was - both unplugged and when plugged in.
     
  13. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    OK so removing the rear "door" card can be a nasty job, although the workshop manual does call for the rear seat back rest to be removed, getting the head rests and head rest guides out is a nightmare.

    It is possible to remove the panel, by removing the bottom part of the seat, taking out one bolt on the back rest, pulling the back rest forward and then pulling out the panel, the panel has a clip in the corner and you have to pull the panel towards the centre of the car. Email me through the website and ill send you some pictures.

    Personally I would recommend getting the codes cleared and trying it again before going any further
     
  14. MitchGriffin

    MitchGriffin New Member

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    SUCCESS!!!

    I went through the items in the trunk/boot and everything looked good. Had the codes deleted, and they came back immediately. So, I moved to the control module.

    Biggest hassle here by far is removing the seat back. Getting the headrests out take some patience and a great deal of effort. I think luck as well. I ended up pushing the seating material down far enough that I could see the wire retainer and used a screw driver to take those off, then you can just pull out the headrest. I am not sure why they are even there to be honest. Then the headrest guide itself needs to be removed. I used a long thin screwdriver and was able to leverage the "clip" in and use needle nose pliers to jerk the guide out. After I had one out, it was much easier to see what need to be done to remove the guide. After they are out, the seat back can be lift (jerked is maybe a better term" up and out. The guide I found said to take the seat belts out of their guide, but this is not necessary and (in my mind) should not be done as it is another hassle to get them back in.

    Anyway, with the seat out I just removed one star screw in the top at the back and was able to pry the door (I guess you would still call it) panel out from the back. I left it attached on the front - in the door jam and had plenty of room. Removed 2 - 10MM nuts and the control unit can be dealt with. There are three connectors - one with blade connectors and two with pins. The one with blades looked fine, but one of the ones with the small pins had some corrosive powder on it. I took the control unit out and opened it up - looked perfect inside. However, on close inspection you could see some corrosion on a couple of the small pins. I used a brass brush and contact cleaner to clean all the pins. You could actually see where some arcing had occurred on the plastic behind the pin. I sprayed contact cleaner on all connections, plugged and unplugged them several times, then cleaned once more. Put it all back together ...... and it has worked perfectly! $0 and about 5 hours work in total.

    I really appreciate the guidance! Please give me your PayPal address and I will send some $.....I really appreciate your assistance!

    Mitch
     
  15. wobblewoo

    wobblewoo New Member

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    Hello again thread.

    Well my roof doesn't open again! It starts to open and then stops.

    Ive cleaned the brushes (not used a Stanley blade to clean between strips) and prised the springs open a bit. The roof works but then stops a day or so later.

    This is the current Vag Com error.

    Any ideas?

    01995 - Convertible Top Lock Switch (F295); Closed
    008 - Implausible Signal
    03245 - Canopy Position Implausible
    008 - Implausible Signal
    00532 - Supply Voltage B+
    002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent


    And i've records from previous problems:

    March 21st 2014

    02000 - Switch Position
    008 - Implausible Signal
    01986 - Convertible Top Frame Position Sensor (G356)
    012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
    00532 - Supply Voltage B+
    002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent


    16th June 2013

    01986 - Convertible Top Frame Position Sensor (G356)
    012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
     
  16. wobblewoo

    wobblewoo New Member

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  17. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Great news Mitch, not to worry about any ££, I support the forums for free. Feel free to leave some feedback on my Facebook page if you like.
     
  18. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Hello,

    If cleaning the motor commutator is causing the roof to start working, then only suggestion is that you are not prying the carriers open far enough in order to free the brushes adequately.

    Lots of codes, which ones reappear after you clear them ?

    Personally I have not used the service in Harrogate as I offer my own competitive service on there ;) (feedback on facebook page)
     
  19. wobblewoo

    wobblewoo New Member

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    Ive just cleared the codes so ill see what comes back - from memory its the 00532 low voltage code.

    How does your service work? Do i send you the pump? Whats the cost?

    Thanks again

    W
     
  20. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Hello,

    The low voltage code is typical if you're operating the roof without the engine running.

    My service is also on eBay, as I support the forums for free, I do not feel it's appropriate to post the link on here, if you would like to discuss then please contact me through my website.
     
  21. Bikertov

    Bikertov New Member

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    Just wanted add to the list of those saying a massive thank you to VagPro :applaus:

    Had the same problem occur all of a sudden yesterday, with no prior warning. Dropped the roof in the sunshine earlier in the day but when I got home nothing - it wouldn't go back.

    Struggled to get it back manually. Even though the roof lid popped up a few inches, so I was then able to lift it completely, I could not lift the roof itself, even with 2 people. After quite a while, I tried using the manual key and bingo - so it must somehow also release the hydraulic pressure in the system too. And I just thought it released the lid.

    So having finally got the roof closed, it gave the classic symptoms of opening an inch or two then nothing.


    Now for a bit of a back-story ...

    I bought the car from an Audi main dealer 3 years ago, when it was 4 years old. The day before I was meant to pick it up, they called to say the roof had stuck in the down postition, and they were having to replace the hydraulic pump and other bits at a cost of nearly £2000 - I saw the 'internal' bill so I know how much it was (pump £1000, storage box £300, + bits and labour).

    Then, within the year (and so still under warranty), I noticed that the rear demister only had about 3 bars working, so I took it back - to which they said the only solution was to replace the whole roof hood, as the glass was bonded into it. They refused to do it as it was 'too expensive'. I kicked up a big stink, and eventually they relented and changed the hood. A few months later I noticed the bars were not working AGAIN, and to cut a long story short, they changed the hood AGAIN, under warranty.


    So fast forwarding to now, as you can imagine, I was really p...ed of last night, worried it would be a £2000 bill to me this time, for a new pump and labour - but then came across this thread on Google.

    With a bit of trepidation, I followed the instruction in the first post to a 'T'.

    OK - it was a bit fiddly getting the trim out etc, but once that was done the motor came out easily, and after cleaning the commutator and freeing the brushes it all worked again a treat.

    Start to finish was under 2 hours, but I took it slowly and tested a few times before bolting everything back an refitting the trim. If / when I have to do it again, I reckon it will easily be under an hour now I know what to do.

    Out of interest, I notice a puddle of what I imagine to be hydraulic oil under the pump, almost certainly from when the dealer replaced it (the level in the pump now is fine). Also, the trim by the roof box was catching every time the box was lowered, as it clearly had not been refitted by the dealer properly - but is now sorted !

    What is really worrying is reading all the stories on here of the same problem, down to the same motor / brush / commutator issue. And, it is highly likely that the problem the dealer had just before I got the car was the same issue. It seems that the motor only has a life of around 3 or 4 years :wtf:

    And I thought Audi's were well engineered !!!


    But anyway, thanks again to VagPro, and I will drop a crate of beer into to you if ever I am in the Leicester area :beerchug:
     
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  23. comeonman

    comeonman New Member

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    Thank you! Your detailed instructions were excellent.

    I;vee had this problem since last year and was against giving Audi so much $$$ for a car with 50K miles. If your roof has the problems noted above, you have some patience and can follow instructions, giive it a try. I'm a 30 yr old women with patience and no mechanical skills. My most difficult task snapping the back of the truck back in. My only advice is to get all the tools you need before hand. I didn't have a 10mm socket long enough to remove the screws. Otherwise I would have been finished in under 2 hours.

    Thank you and Good Luck
     
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  24. Bikejimy

    Bikejimy New Member

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    This was a great post/ apparently here in the states the same thing happens our a4's top stopped working-found this post and followed the directions and it works like new//thanks for the information/ the best way to tell if this is the problem is to lightly tap the motor with a hammer and if the top starts working it's dead on the problem//don't be afraid it is easy
     
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  25. fullban

    fullban New Member

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    I have just started getting error cant use roof ,iv got a vagcom and codes are

    02023 terminal 87 iv reset and it comes back

    tried resetting roof and nothing changes

    when I try and open roof it just gives me error on dash and get nothing at all

    update!! I have been trying things allday and suddenly it started working it opened and closed 2 times then got stuck shut and had to wind it in
    so I no the thing works it seems like its getting no power or something is there a way to test this?
     
    #503 fullban, Jun 12, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014
  26. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Hello,

    See response #456 on this thread.

    Regards
     
  27. fullban

    fullban New Member

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    thanks vagcom il have a go tomorrow .

    where is the Central Convenience module is it easy to get at?

    thanks
     
  28. fullban

    fullban New Member

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    I got the carpet up and there is no water damage at all plugged out and back in all connectors still same problem

    im all outa ideas now

    update : this is just fukin great my airbag sign stays on now after doing this ..feel like scrappin this POS car!!
     
    #506 fullban, Jun 13, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
  29. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Just because there is no water doesn't necessarily mean the central convenience module is working. Perform an output test and continuity test on wiring.

    I will be in Manchester on Sunday.
     
  30. fullban

    fullban New Member

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    il come meet up with you on sunday if that's ok ,thanks

    spent 2 days on it, hard work !

    what do I need to bring with me mate?
     
  31. TMorel

    TMorel New Member

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    Forgot to say, followed your instructions and apart from the struggle getting the trim out, it all worked like a charm and have been enjoying the breeze in my hair :)
    Massive thanks.
     
  32. fullban

    fullban New Member

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    02023 terminal 87

    have fixed roof with guidance from vagpro (really knows his stuff on cabriolets) it was a dodgy connection on the central convenience module in the passanger footwell ,thanks for help
     
  33. Bigmad08

    Bigmad08 New Member

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    Hi VagPro and Forum

    My roof started having problems when closing, the compartment would open but the roof would not move. Now i have issues with both opening and closing.
    The following YouTube video is not mine but is exactly the same problem.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO6-uBAECrM

    I have replaced the top tensioner position sender -G356- but this has made no difference.

    VCDS does not show any errors unless i leave the roof to try and close or open, then logs implausible errors.

    Has anyone fixed the same issue successfully?

    Regards,
     
  34. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    You need to perform basic settings after replacing the bow oostion sensor. Have you done this ?
     
  35. Bigmad08

    Bigmad08 New Member

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    Yes done and done again, still the same.
     
  36. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Could do with having a look at it.

    Where are you in the world ?
     
  37. Bigmad08

    Bigmad08 New Member

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    Enfield, Middlesex.
     
  38. siestakey

    siestakey New Member

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    you seem to know a lot and need help here in the US. My Audi A4 2.0T cabriolet roof acts up all the time. i can get it to go down but won't go us....rear compartment will unlatch but roof doesn't budge...we have reset manually and it still does the same thing. had it on the computer at local repair shop and F295 code comes up. can you help??? (also the phone button on steering wheel hasn't worked)
     
  39. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Hello,

    Have you got an actual error code no, do you have access to vcds ? Need to check the measuring block values, it may be the storage compartment lock switches are playing up. What if you lift the storage compartment lid, does it close ?

    Regards
    Khurrum
     
  40. VagPro

    VagPro Active Member

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    Let me know how you get on, if all else fails I'm planning on being in London this weekend.
     
  41. siestakey

    siestakey New Member

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    yes we got error code F295. it is so frustrating! live in Florida and can't put roof down as won't go back up unless we do it manually...which is a pain
     
  42. siestakey

    siestakey New Member

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    yes we got error code F295. it is so frustrating! live in Florida and can't put roof down as won't go back up unless we do it manually...which is a pain

    the storage dept clicks open a few inches and that's it. won't close with the lid open either....
     

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