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Audi A3 Rear Brake disc and pad removal

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by Salamanca, Mar 31, 2014.

  1. Salamanca
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    Salamanca New Member

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    [Mar 31, 2014]
    Hi
    I am trying to change the rear disc and pads on my Audi A3 2.0 Sportsback 2007. The Haynes manual makes no mention of the handbrake being connected to the calliper. Assume I have to remove the nut holding handbrake to the calliper, is anyone able to advise me on whether or not I need to slack of the hand brake cable and if its easy enough to put back on afterwards? Its the spring that concerns me.
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  2. Sandra
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    Sandra MODERATOR Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 31, 2014]
    Hi, welcome to audi-sport.net. I will move this post into the a3 8p section. Have a read of the faqs thread, lots of info in there. Im sure one of the guys will be along to advise you. Enjoy the forum. :) x
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  3. Salamanca
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    Salamanca New Member

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    [Mar 31, 2014]
    Thanks, struggling to find my way around
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  4. SmithyAG
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    SmithyAG Active Member

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    [Mar 31, 2014]
    Shouldn't need to remove the handbrake cable I'd have thought. Is there not enough on it so that when you undo the caliper you can just move it out of the way? I can't remember since I last did mine, they're due for being done soon though tbf.

    Failing that, can you not remove the handbrake cable from the lug holding it in if you slacked the cable at the adjuster, as opposed to undoing the mechanism from the caliper?
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  5. Salamanca
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    Salamanca New Member

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    [Mar 31, 2014]
    Thanks Smithy, there is some movement but not enough, it appears to be the stiffness of the cable that prevents it and I did not want to force it and maybe brake the cable casing. Removing the cable from the lug would still give me the same issue as I cannot see a way to move the cable from the stop eye?
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  6. hollow
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    hollow Active Member

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    [Mar 31, 2014]
    dont have to remove handbrake cable ,but you have to remove the brake caliper bracket multispline 14.
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  7. Salamanca
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    Salamanca New Member

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    [Apr 1, 2014]
    Are we talking about the bracket connecting the handbrake to the calliper re my original thread?
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  8. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    [Apr 1, 2014]
    I did mine two weeks ago. You need a spline Socket as mentioned above. It's the two bolts that hold the carrier to the hub. You can then just swing the whole caliper out the way. Here's a few pics of mine that might help:

    You can see the top bolt in this pic. You'll also need a wind back tool if you don't have one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
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  9. Salamanca
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    Salamanca New Member

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    [Apr 1, 2014]
    Okay many thanks, waiting for wind back tool to come, will now send for spline socket....
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  10. c_w
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    c_w Well-Known Member

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    [Apr 2, 2014]
    As above the handbrake and cable do not need to be touched. After refitting, the handbrake will re-adjust itself after a few uses of the pedal and handbrake.

    As for the spline socket for the bolts, it depends what size rear discs they are; I swapped my discs without removing the large spline bolts for the caliper carrier (so basically just remove the caliper itself and the grub screw on the disc). My car is a TDI 170 with a solid 255mm rear disc. The main thing for me was using the wind back tool as it the piston is pretty stiff and not really possible to do it without the proper tool.
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  11. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 2, 2014]
    The seal on the caliper the above picture does does not look in good condition, it should not be twisted like that.
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  12. Westy
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    Westy Double Dark Side! Diesel & 8P

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    [Apr 2, 2014]
    It's from the wind back tool. It's fine.
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  13. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 2, 2014]
    The caliper seal is stuck to the piston and is being twisted when you used the wind back tool, the caliper seal should be freed off from the piston before its wound back, so the seal should look like the one on shown on this image I found.

    016505B25B4E4EF899EFEA45C00BA027.jpg
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  14. c_w
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    c_w Well-Known Member

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    [Apr 3, 2014]
    Yea that seal is definitely twisted, might not be a major issue but probably corrosion as meant it's not allowed the piston to turn when it's been wound back in. Should only be a matter of massaging it back in to straight position with your fingers nail.
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  15. Salamanca
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    Salamanca New Member

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    [Apr 12, 2014]
    Update. Job done, did not need to remove calliper hanger, as C-W suggested it will come off without, its looks impossible but it just comes out. Thank you all for your comments and advice, I was making an easy job difficult.
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