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Anyone removed a turbo before?

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by VAGMAN1, Mar 6, 2006.

  1. VAGMAN1
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    VAGMAN1 Member

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    [Mar 6, 2006]
    How hard was it and how long did it take to remove?

    Need to remove mine for a refurb - it's the type joined to the exhaust manifold (TDI engine)

    what needs renewing when you refit it and do you have to remove a driveshaft to allow the turbo/exhaust manifold to drop down, out through the bottom of the engine bay?
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  3. RichA3Turbo
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    RichA3Turbo ...Watching you! Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 6, 2006]
    You may be able to get it up round the back of the engine and out that way...depends how much space there is down the back... To drop it out the bottom you will need to unbolt a driveshaft. Unbolt it first and see how it goes. All in all, prob a 2 hour job i'd say.

    Rich
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  4. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    [Mar 6, 2006]
    Yeah it sounds daunting, but when you get into it you find its really not that difficult.

    I took the drive shaft out when I did mine. Made the process much easier, but its not essential.

    I can send you the audi proceedure for your car if you give me the engine code and year etc.
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  5. VAGMAN1
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    VAGMAN1 Member

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    [Mar 6, 2006]
    got it already (plus my haynes manual!) - but thanks for the offer anyway HTC

    how easy is it to remove the driveshafts? think I need to replace the gaskets on both sides (definately one side at least) as there is gear oil leaking somewhere around the sump/gear box and I figured worn driveshft gasket is the most likely cause
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  6. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    [Mar 6, 2006]
    To remove the drive shaft you need a 30mm socket and an 8mm triple square (or spline) bit.

    Jack the car up and get someone to put their foot on the brake. Then loosen the big hub nut with a breaker bar or similar. The important thing to remember is to not let the weight of the car rest on the wheel when this nut is loose as you can damage the bearings.

    Then use your 8mm spline bit (do not use an allen key as you mash the bolt heads) to undo the 6 bolts that hold the inner CV joint to the gearbox output flanges.

    You should be able turn the wheel on full lock and remove the shaft. If you can't then just undo the three nuts that hold the ball joint to the wishbone and pull the hub out a bit to make space.

    When refitting you need to follow the a proceedure to re-tighten the hub nut.

    Tighten to 200Nm, then slacken off the nut half a turn, then tighten to 50Nm, and finally turn a further 60 degrees.
    Inner bolts are about 40Nm I think.
    Always use a new hub nut when replacing.

    As for replacing flange seals (if thats the problem) IIRC the flanges just pull off. I can check for sure if you want.
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  7. chrisb
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    chrisb Member

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    [Mar 7, 2006]
    [ QUOTE ]
    To remove the drive shaft you need a 30mm socket

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm not 100% certain, but I have a feeling the hub nut on my TDi isn't a normal 30mm hex like older VW-Audi ones, and that it's a strange 12-point job.
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  8. RichA3Turbo
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    RichA3Turbo ...Watching you! Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 7, 2006]
    12-point are called 'spline' tool...or triple square as they refer to them as on Vortex.

    Rich
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  9. dummi
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    dummi smoking a6

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    [Mar 7, 2006]
    if you need any tools i found this site after some research toolbay.biz excellent just about everything you could need is there including some specialist audi tools infact i almost exclusively bought tools from there to pull my 2.7t and do the turbo change, halfords make a good range of general tech tools.

    HTC has you covered with the manual


    i think a fair few people have done this on here and have technical & practical knowledge if you need any encouragement or help while your doing the pull

    good luck
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  10. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    [Mar 7, 2006]
    Ah yes forgot you might have the bolt type. I'm just used to the nut style.

    Proceedure for tightening collared bolt

    ‒ Have second mechanic press brake.
    ‒ Tighten hexagon collared bolt to 240 Nm.
    ‒ Set vehicle down on its wheels.
    ‒ Give hexagon collared bolt further 90° turn.
    ‒ Slacken off hexagon collared bolt again by 90°.
    ‒ Raise vehicle.
    ‒ Slacken off hexagon collared bolt by a further 90°.
    ‒ Have second mechanic press brake.
    ‒ Tighten hexagon collared bolt to 240 Nm.
    ‒ Set vehicle down on its wheels.
    ‒ Give hexagon collared bolt further 90° turn.
    #9
  11. VAGMAN1
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    VAGMAN1 Member

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    [Mar 7, 2006]
    thanks everyone - lots of valuable info as ever from the forum

    planning to do the job this weekend......weather permitting!
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