Anyone fitted an MP3 CD changer to their S3/A3?

[comdw]

Considering upgrading to one, but must be compatible with the existing HU (Concert) as I don't want to upgrade the HU because of the additional expense and bother (I have BOSE).

AndyMac pointed out a Sony unit that came with an Audi adaptor at MCS Direct

Has anyone got any experience with this unit or anything else that supports MP3?

I was also trying to find out if the PhatNoise box was available in the UK yet.

Any help greatly appreciated...

 

[comdw]

I'm definately not interested in going the FM modulator route, so the Keg option would be very expensive (and alot more than I thought I'd have to spend to play a large selection of MP3s!).

Anyway with BOSE can I even fit an aftermarket HU easily?

Dension do a hard-disk MP3 head unit (without an external box) which is 20Gb and would work out much cheaper that the Keg option (I wouldn't be able to play CDs though).

Does the Keg come with the SSA/Voice feature that announces songs/albums/genres so you don't have to look at a display while you're driving?

I've just found out that the MP3 CD changer adaptor would probably have to be connected into the back of the HU itself rather than fitting the existing connector in the boot which is a real pain from an installation point of view (unless anybody knows any different).

I honestly thought this would be alot easier and that it would be possible to get an MP3 CD changer that would fit the existing connector but its not looking so good now.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[AndyMac]

No you can't easily put an aftermarket HU in on the Bose setup. The Bose factory fit speakers & sub use a proprietary impedance (1 or 2 ohms) so a straight swap will overload the HU's amp as it is expecting 4 ohm. Also the Bose sub has some bizarre pre stage on the amp, which means standard line outs cause a horrible "pop" when you turn it on or off or turn the volume down to zero.
I've spoken to MCS direct tech support and they say the Sony T70MX adapter connects to the existing bus lead in the boot, so installation is a piece of p*ss. I've used these adapters before and they have always connected at the boot end. Looks like a good deal.

 

[comdw]

oh well thats a relief in a way - when I rang them the person I spoke to said they connected to the HU more often than not. I guess I should have pushed them to actually find out for that specific model!

Thanks AndyMac!

 

[MarkyB]

Ahhh, I've been thinking about upgrading my SONY MiniDisc Changer to a Kenwood Music Keg. Glad to see someone else has got one!

I already have a Connects2 interface that makes the SONY MD Changer look like an Audi CD Changer, and have run the cabling all the way to the cubby-hole above the sub-woofer in the boot (behind LHS panel). It currently works like a charm, but it's a bit of hassle to have to real-time copy CD's onto MD's /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Would I be able to swap the SONY MD Changer for Kenwood Music Keg or would I need yet another adapter? Again, using the FM Tuner do-dah isn't of much interest as I'd like to be able to control the MK using the Audi HeadUnit.

Oh, and it's a Chorus (Radio/Cassette) HU, with the BOSE Speaker upgrade on a MY 01 S3 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Mark.

 

[AndyMac]

Yes there is, but it isn't standard. You can't just connect any device to the line in, as the HU won't know about it. You'd have to fool the HU to think it is still playing the autochanger in order for it to activate the line in's, as I think it switches off the line in's unless it is playing a CD. If you jack the vloume right up, you can hear the background noise/engine noise/interference drop off when the autochanger changes CD's. My guess is that it mutes the "audio in" on the HU when changing CD's so that the infernal interference on these cheap & nasty HU's is not so noticeable.

 

[comdw]

Oh well I've already ordered mine from MCS so just have to wait and see now. Not sure I fancy wiring it back to the HU myself though, so might have to pay someone to install it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

AndyMac, didn't you say that you spoke to MCS and it fitted the boot connector?

I'll let you know when it arrives...

 

[AndyMac]

Yeah, that's what they said, but I found the web link I posted above your entry last night that said you have to run it all the way to the head unit. I'm guessing this is correct and kinda makes sense, sorry to have misled you. It's not a bad idea anyway, as the stock cable is sh*t quality, and is prone to engine noise. Running a new cable is a 15minute job, just make sure you remove the glovebox, which makes life a lot easier.

 

[MarkyB]

[ QUOTE ]
comdw said:
Oh well I've already ordered mine from MCS so just have to wait and see now. Not sure I fancy wiring it back to the HU myself though, so might have to pay someone to install it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

There shouldn't be any wiring to do, they should give you the correct Audi Connector to plug it into the back of your HU.

If you have the BOSE speaker upgrade, you may have to ask them to send you another connector as the BOSE speaker connections share the same connector block as the CD Changer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Mark.

 

[comdw]

OK so its all arrived now and its the connects2 adaptor that connects into the head unit.

MarkyB - looking at the bit that plugs into the HU, it looks like theres a pass through for alot of the connections - presumably these could be the BOSE speaker connections?

Does anyone know if I can easily determine if my Concert HU is protected by a security code before I disconnect it, or are they always protected? I don't have the code (2nd hand car) so I guess I'll have to ring up the original dealer for the code...

Finally, do I need a special tool to get the HU out? I haven't actually looked yet to see if its easy or not...

 

[MarkyB]

You will need a pair of HU Release Keys to remove the HU - You could pop round to your local dealer and ask them nicely to release the HU for you, but they're unlikely to be willing to sell them to you - I bought a pair from eBay for about £8 (incl P&P)

http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?...

The Security Code for the HU should be written on the inside flap of the manual for it.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the leads for power to the HU are on the same loom as the CD Changer Controler Cable (or something daft like that), so you probably will have to disconnect the power and will need the Security Code /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Will have a look at my HU tomorrow, it's bit of a pig fiddling about with it at dusk / in the dark as you have to be careful that you don't snag any leads - all the gubbins for the Climate Control lives in the same space.

Mark

 

[comdw]

The connects2 install instructions say that you must disconnect the power to the HU before plugging the adaptor in!

Only got the car recently, and the tear out with the radio code on it is missing. The manual does say that if you've lost it, your local audi dealer will assist you free of charge...

So I'm hoping to kill two birds with one stone, take it to the dealer - they have to remove the HU to get the serial number in order to get the security code, then I just ask them not to put it right back in!

Are there any links/guides/pictures out there from people who've routed the wiring between the HU and the boot before? I guess it might be as simple as following the existing wire - soon find out when I get the HU out and also remove the glovebox as someone suggested.

 

[MarkyB]

Running the cable from the dash to boot involves removing a fair bit of interior trim. "Dave N" posted a guide to doing it on the old forums, which I had the presence of mind to take a copy of at the time...

[ QUOTE ]

DaveN
Rookie
Member # 118
Rate Member
posted 22 August 2001 12:14
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did a similar install about 2 months ago.
As said previously run the cabling behind the glove box to the left side.
The glove box is removable be removing about 6 torx screws behind the plastic snap on cover on the side of the dash, you can see it if you open the door. There are 3 screws if you open the glove box and one beneath the glove box.


The trim on the floor is just clipped down and can be prised up.


To get the side panel off is a bit of work, first remove the rear seat, this is done by folding the seat completely forward, for the left side get a screwdriver and push down the hoop the locks the seat in on the left side.( its hard to explain but looking at it you should see what I'm talking about).

Now with the seat removed begin to pull the side panel out from the bottom beginning at the front, there are 4 clips at the door side, two at the bottom and about 3 across the top. With a bit of gentle levering these all open allowing access to the area through to the boot.

Be careful with the clips on the side panel as they can break off but can be refixed using Super Glue or Epoxy.


Before anyone say's I could of done it easier, I was also putting in a S25 phone car kit and I hid the control box behind the glove box.


Best of luck and take your time.

Dave N


[/ QUOTE ]

Someone else (Drillslinger?) advised that there is a special trim-puller tool available for prising the clips that hold the trim in place away from their sockets without damaging them (easily done).

I didn't have one to hand, but it would probably be worth seeking one out as I had to apply a worringly large amount of force to pull the trim out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Mark.

 

[AndyMac]

If it's just a single cable, you shouldn't have to remove the rear panel. You should be able to tuck it under the bottom edge of the panel. You can get the sill trim on and off by arching it in the middle, and hooking each end under the rear & footwell panels.

 

[comdw]

thanks for those bits of advice - i'll have to see how it goes. I'll be back when I get stuck!

 

[comdw]

Don't worry I was definately going to try out the connects2 interface before installing everything properly.

I also considered buying a better interconect - assuming you went from HU to boot how much length do you need?