Another cooling riddle:- 1.8T

audinary

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I have exactly the opposite problem to Yendall24.

Driving home from work on Friday, I'd got about 2 thirds of my way home, off the dual carriageway and back onto country roads when suddenly my Coolant warning shouted at me.

Sure enough the temperature gauge was way up to about 110deg. I looked under the bonnet and the header tank was extremely hot. Carefully I released the pressure (and steam) from the bottle (which I know I shouldn't have done...) and let the temperature drop a bit.

After 5 mins or so I restarted the car, which had dropped to about 95. I was about 5 mins from home so I figured I could nurse it home.

But after about 2 mins the warning came up again. Again I pulled over and did the same as before. The journey home took me an extra 25 minutes because of the stopping and starting.

Today I decided to investigate, so I drained the coolant and changed the thermostat (I was hoping for a quick fix). Refilled coolant and thought I'd suck it and see. I Started the car, after about 10 mins idling it settled at the usual 90deg, where it stayed for about 5 minutes. Then it started to rise, and settled at about 100. I then thought i'd give it a quick spin as idling in a garage isn't a fair trial.

However, by the time I was 200yds down the road the warning was back on.

Car is back in the garage. Coolant level is about a quarter past minimum with no obvious loss. Header tank is very hot. Water pipe into rad is very hot, water pipe out seems to be cold. Thermostat is new (previous one worked fine when tested in a saucepan)

I'm pretty much resigned to thinking its the water pump.

Your thoughts would be much appreciated!
 
yes water pump impeller will of come of and no flow through engine
 
yes water pump impeller will of come of and no flow through engine

Cheers mate, Yeah, that was my suspicion.

Before I start pulling things off, is it likely to be refittable or is it new pump time? Also, is there any way of avoiding pulling the front end off?
 
new pump time.

You might be able to get the waterpump off from underneath the car, but i suspect without access to a ramp it wont be too easy!
 
I'd pull the front clip.

A word of advice - don't buy a non-OEM pump.

They're not that great, besides, the OEM ones are cheap enough.
 
second word of advice.....get one with a metal impeller!
you can get sections with just the impeller housing.

check out BobQ on www.QEDpower.com. very cheap
 
Okay, so I'm resolved to take the front panel off. One of my mates (ex VAG Tech) has said he'll lend me the metal bolty thiings to put the car in "Service Mode". If possible I'm inclined not to do this, id' much rather put all the bits the other side of the garage, all neat and tidy.

While I'm at it, I may as well do a Cam belt and Tensioner change, as I have no record of if this has been done on the car. 58k and 10 years is probably enough for a belt.

Also while I'm at it, when I took delivery of the car the AC had been disabled by removing the belt. The fan etc. still kick in and there is still pressure in the system. I'm assuming that the belt was removed due to compressor issues, but what i don't know is if it's compressor or clutch.

Can you replace the ac clutch on it's own or do I need to spring for a compressor on my increasing list o' shopping?

Cheers for your help so far
 
Easier to replace the compressor - clutches are available, but so many, non-compatible parts.

Yes, belt and tensioner parts replacement is a good idea.
 
Easier to replace the compressor - clutches are available, but so many, non-compatible parts.
.

I was afraid you were going to say that! Looks like a happy christmas is another £300 further away.....

I'm being very brave taking this on (I'm not exactly a qualified mechanic), but needs must.... the less I spend paying other people to work on it, the more I have to spend on chips, filters.... insurance!
 
the special tools for the service position are just some M8 screwed rod. I picked up two lengths from homebase for a couple quid when i did mine.

If your going for a full timing belt change/ac pump etc though you may benefit from the extra room afforded by removing it completely
 
what does the rod do and where does it go?
 
Ouch!

A/C compressor £688 from Audi (er, might leave it)
Electromagnetic coupler £311....

Cambelt kit (albeit "Modified" to prevent slippage) £166.25

Water pump £40.08

All Plus VAT! Audi prices!

Shame I'm at work.... could really do with ordering the bits I need to get the work started tomorrow......

Damn it! £166.25 for a Cambelt kit! Oooooouch.
 
jcb: you remove the four bolts on each side that attaches the carrier/bumper shocks to the chassis and insert the threaded rod in place of one of them.

the carrier then slides forward on the threaded rod, instead of just falling off, allowing you to work on the engine without removing the radiator or disturbing coolant/aircon pipes.
 
Ouch!

A/C compressor £688 from Audi (er, might leave it)
Electromagnetic coupler £311....

Cambelt kit (albeit "Modified" to prevent slippage) £166.25

Water pump £40.08

All Plus VAT! Audi prices!

Shame I'm at work.... could really do with ordering the bits I need to get the work started tomorrow......

Damn it! £166.25 for a Cambelt kit! Oooooouch.

i just picked up a Cambelt kit from Euro Car Parts for a 1.9TDi AFN Engine for £68 incl VAT

EDIT: just checked the price for a water pump for a 1.8T have 2 makes in stock, the OEM one at £22 and £30 for the other. but check you part numbers just to be sure.


Give them a call and stay away from Audi Dealers
 
well ye the car isnt particularly high mileage, perhaps the belt came off accidentally, or perhaps someone removed it thinking they'd save a few MPG

The pump may well be humped, but for the few quid a belt costs its surely worth trying it out to see what happens...