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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by JUS3IN, Aug 23, 2013.
on the pack it says 'VW AG' then some part numbers then 's3'???
Do things right first time round.. I gathered tons of info by reading tuffty's, prawns, Andrews, superkarls, jardo's(yes.. Jardo!!), westy's dani's etc.. All (and more) have the best info you could possibly want.. My thread mearly shows what happens when you read and do correctly which is why I got such a good map from bill! Lovely power, lots of torque (which was Pegged down). Even JASON PLATO loves my car as he's driven it!
really plato, thats wicked!-)
im not saying i wont take it up to bill or r-tec at some point but very busy atm with work and getting ready for the my first baby on the way due in january, so spending a whole day is outta the question atm...
just want to get the welly cooler on, spike gone which is still there after spinning the split-r today (thanks tuffty!-) shoulda just refitted the stock one thinking back lol... and a safe map..
Part number would help..
TFSI coils are quite distinctive... and stick out the cover quite a bit... look here...
I was going to right something similar although I'm still on the standard map and Plato's never driven my car.
justarn you are a glutton for punishment!!!
Clicking 'pressure regulator' on this post made me chuckle, now thats an A3 mod!
I feel for you dude but any drive in drive out stage 2 map that's done in a couple of hours will never quite deliver exactly what you want. My car was at B5 for nearly 8 hours and whilst I came away with a car that will set your hair on fire I also learnt that I need to change the fuel pump, maf and coil packs and then go back for some tweaking! On cars of our age theres very little that can be achieved in a few hours unless your car is 100% perfect and you only want a generic flash, I spent sooo much time and money building my engine but I'm happy as larry and know that everything was done correctly by Bill. Badger 5 ftw
There's nothing wrong with prehistoric AmD maps, and they respond well to B5 3" TIP also, my car is proof of that!
Thanks jojo, have You got a hadlex controller To get that sideways?
Or was it a bit off an accident lol!-)
^^^ That... ;P
...but we let him have his moment as it was well held... been a few track days at combe this year that didn't end so well lol...
1. Lift off the throttle
2. Chuck her into a corner at some speed
3. Let the R32 Rear ARB do it's work
not all cars react like yours tho.
and its an assumption the map on yours is the same as on others........
yours does'nt spike, his does. A generic map thing or different map?
Or like tuffty said the map could have highlighted another issues causing The spike? They did say apy's take a bit more messing around, guessing they haven't done that part yet!
I could take it back thurs. Or fri after work as I'm working near. By atm, should I get the fmic on first?
Ahh well good effort tho jojo, not quite a drift king then haha!-)
Are those ramps safe? I wouldn't fancy working underneath the car with just those supporting it.
Cheers, and Yeah, handbrake, on in gear, proper car ramps mate?-) hopefully all my pipes are here Today so I can get it all fitted, gonna have all my n75 pipework of tonight too and See if I can sort This boost spike!
the front mount is on, not too bad a job apart from refitting the bumper.
right, ive changed out two of the n75 pipes the one to the actuator for the more robust stock one and fitted the stock bleed pipe too as it reduces down which mine wasnt doing... just had a run and she seemed to be holding at 1.5 then quickly decided 1.7 again... im starting to think it is the turbo elbow getting hot and soft like amd said...
i do have a brown pikey n75 that i was thinking of throwing on to see if the n75 was the problem??
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Anything other then a stock N75 valve I also likely to cause a spike. The N75 J that people used to run as a mod are notorious for this.
The ali pipes don't look too bad on a silver car either :thumbsup:
Sack off the J valve for sure mate! AMD's software will most likely be written for a stock valve, as most maps are, so get the right N75 in there and it should go some way to eliminating your boost spikes.
Nasty things J valves.
cheers westy, im quite happy with them, the brown j valve one is'nt on there just wondered if i could utilize it to eliminate a problem with my audi eaton f valve...
the relentless mani could be helping it to spike too i guess, could i could fit a mbc between the n75 and tip to get a bit more control....?
at least theres lots of cold air now!-)
my friend has just enlightened me on mbc'ers, saying i probably cant lower boost with one only raise boost? as it bleeds of extra air only, is this true???
scrub that until i know its nothing else anyways.... stupid idea looking back, surely it must be something more obvious.
ive just had all the little pipes off around the inlet manifold and reconnected them with small cable ties as i previously used petrol pipe clamps which seemed to squash them a bit oblong. she is holding at 1.5bar now mostly spiking to 1.6 with the occasional 1.7... slowly getting better, havent seen 1.8 for the last two test drives so since the fmic, dont forget i was hitting 1.9 bar now and then when it was first mapped!!!
i'm also thinking of going back out and taking the boost inlet for the n75 from the cold side (i.e after the intercooler) to see if i can get a more stable pressure, is this a good idea??
kwistof is running the same turbo elbow as me and his isnt spiking so although i'll be happier with the forge on amd have im not hanging my hopes on that..
could it be the relentless mani helping it spin so freely?
stock diverters back on btw tuffty!-)
thanks all, any more opinions greatly appreciated as i would really like to get this spike under control before in goes back to amd on saturday.
No need for an MBC... if mapped correctly you will have all the boost control you need...
will it be ok to plug the n75 charge pipe connection and run it off a 'T' on the pipe out off the top of the throttle body (the one that goes up to the firewall then to the carbon canister) for a more stable feed?
it'd be the same as using the charge pipe one except post throttle flap.. No need to change it
people on other turbo car forums run their boost solinoids on the cold side for a more stable pressure to help combat spiking... im gonna try it, only a 5 min job. cant do any harm right?
I read people jump off bridges too, should we all do that?
I cannot see any difference in what you are doing. Your car has been incorrectly mapped and you are trying to fudge your way around it.
its not going to be any less stable.. NOT that stable is the issue...
choose a different point for boost source and it will effect what level of boost is going to be passed to n75/actuator... Closer to turbo higher the boost.
map is spike or malfunctioning n75
I think you read too much on tinterweb and get 2+2=5
Stop messing about with stuff or you'll end up making it worse. Just get the pipe amd have recommended then take it back to them and get them to sort it out.
how do you know its incorrectly mapped mate in all honesty you dont even know the car, are you assuming everything on my car was ready for that much boost cause the coilpacks certainly werent! it could be multiple things causing a boost spike like others have suggested n75, also air leaks, dodgy turbo, sticking actuator ect, have you even read the full thread?
you come rolling in with one word answers and generally being no help what so ever so why are you commenting lol?
lol, because you dont know about it its fudging it is it, please.... i dont just read one random post and take it as gospel!-) the sudden pressure right next to the turbo when it comes on boost is obviously going to be reduced once its gone through all that pipework! and for your info ive been out and about since my post earlier and the car is running better all round tbh, i never saw more than 1.6 mostly running straight to 1.5 and staying put! its obviously had some effect!
the n75 is a genuine f valve and 6 months old, i replaced it when trying to sort the overboost issues you helped me with bill.
i really think its the map now like you say, even though moving the n75 feed seems to have helped with the spike. it was something that the s13 boys used to do back in the day, a close friend knows all there is to know about s13s and was a forum whore a few years ago, he suggested it. i done some googling and i thought it was worth a go. in your opinion is less spike is better...?
im not talking about a perminant fix, the n75 will be plumbed normally for the return visit to amd on saturday and i'll be asking them to map it out but for the time being 1.5/1.6 bar is better than 1.6/1.7.
they have the pipe there, i/they ordered it on the day. as above it'll be as audi intended when it goes back.
also being after the map sensor it will be getting a closer reading to what the ecu is seeing there rather than right next to a turbo running mapped boost and before a massive intercooler/pressure drop?
less spike imhop is better yes..
if not part of the boost request which logs would confirm mappped requests vs Overshoot spike, then its an unwanted side effect of either a J valve, or malfunctiioning std N75 valve or map not managing the boost onset. (<<< very common)
I have not read one random post, i have read thread after thread about you winging about your car asking for advice and doing something else instead. The effect is placebo due to reduced temperatures, or a now sealing pipe that wasn't before, what you have done will make no odds to boost spike. You are right I don't know the car specifically, but i have read a lot about it on here. If you want help, wind your neck in, if you want to be left to rod busting boost continue in this vane of biting the hands that feed you....