Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by JUS3IN, Aug 23, 2013.
do you have access to vcds dude?
hey westy, i have thought this... i expected more from amd tbh.. its just both b5 and r-tech are around a 3hr drive, thats a long way if there is a problem and it cant get done! i was only planning on a stage 1 but they said it'll have to be the stage 2 due to my mods at no extra cash might i add...
yeah bill ive got it mate?
[h=1]AmD Tuning: AMD STAGE 2 UPGRADE[/h]Part Number: AMDMAPKO3SS2
This is an upgrade from stage 1
[h=3]Stage 2 includes.[/h]
* Remaping to suit the upgrades fitted to the car
* Also Dyno time for setting up and fine tuning
* Gains of 10-15% over the Stage 1 map
Allows the use of a full exhaust including De-Cat or Sports-Cat without the ECU throwing an Engine Check Light.
* Turbo back exhaust without pre-cat and either decat or highflow catalytic convertor (Millteksport system recommended)
* Cold Air intake (Pippercross panel filter Or Cold Air Induction Kit)
* Uprated DV (recirculating diverter valve)
* Also for the car to be running on good fuel 97-99ron
* 4 bar pressure regulator
* Uprated Engine Mounts
* Uprated Transmission Mounts
* Uprated or Additional Intercooler
Then < danger to manifold.
just done a quick check for codes and first one is new one, got
18010; power supply voltage low intermittent guessing they had the battery disconnected?
16514 lamda malfunction in circuit intermittent
16487 maf signal high intermittent
had the other two yesterday after a few weeks of none! , car does seem hotter though under the bonnet, no warnings or water temp increase mind you!
Nothing should need a 4bar FPR... while it does work (I know I run one) its a pump killer on cars as old as ours... it also means the injectors need to be scaled to run the higher flow rate else all the ECU will do is pull the fuel back out... (although on your APY this will only happen on cruise/idle)
Stage 2 typically lifts mid range power and torque... includes more timing advance and a little more boost as a rule however... std SMIC's are rubbish on sustained use of normal power and next to useless on a stage 1 so you may get one good run before IAT's sky rocket at the expense of timing advance and subsequently torque... it will feel pretty flat (much like they do in the hot weather)... IAT timing intervention kicks in just after 30degs intake temps... SMICs will heatsoak and not recover quickly so your IAT's will just get higher and higher... this negates all the extra stuff stage 2 provides..
Most generic stage 2 maps do not take into account the latest bolt on upgrades or age/wear of the car/engine.. this is why custom maps get better results as they are tailored to how your car is running at this point in time...
Please note this is a generalisation and not a dig at anyone companies map... this is just how it is these days... most of the big name tuners aren't interested in our cars as they are old and so have not developed the maps beyond what they were when the cars were newer/current...
As long as fuelling is ok and boost is at a safe level then all will be good but its unlikely you are getting the best out of your hardware... I have seen similar setups net over 290hp but that is the exception rather than the rule as the condition varies so much...
IMO.. 1.8bar is too much and because this is an initial spike its worse... this of course may not be anything to do with the map... it could be related to other hardware issue like a faulty N75 etc but... it should be recognised that this is not ideal...
I would imagine Bill has asked if you have VCDS so you can log a few things to try and determine the cause of this boost spike...
these all post remap or had them before?
if you do want to log air temps... and other stuff
blocks 002,020,118 will show you airflow, injector ms to calc duty cycle, timing pull and air temps, n75 duty cycle and actual boost (up to a max of 2550mb, so wont show your 2800mb spike you describe)
your car is narrowband so no egt measurement..
more power more heat - simples
I dont recall if yours went on the dyno or was it just flashed?
4bar fpr they fitted to your stage 2 also?
AFR check under load on the dyno? The logs and dyno plot would confirm alls well on that score. You cant log it on your narrowband ecu unfortunately.
old cars, old pumps, sometimes not so happy pushing 4bar fuel pressure PLUS boost on top.. 6.8bar fuel pressure for your 1.8bar spike you describe
the last two were there yesterday before the remap.
i will go and do that log in a bit... still having problems posting results with this darn windows 8 which has no pdf!
really wondering what amd mean by a few small tweeks to boost and some areas on the final rr? they said it was safe so i hope it is...
cheers tuffty mate, explains alot... my n75 is a few months old and genuine, as is my maf... if its not my car stage 2 is very aggressive and the fmic should be a necessity! it wasnt spiking at all before the remap..
Do yourself a favour and switch to Win7 64bit.
All the best with the motor mate
WELL... something's happened already sounds like theres a helicopter in my engine instead of pistons lol...
had a little miss fire and thought nothing of it, small pop on boost then round a rounderbout now she's chugging like running on three rises with the revs? its so bad i never thought i'd get home as soon as you touch the throttle heavy chuggy spluttery noise, not backfiring tho!?
not a knocking noise... no fault codes??? thinking maybe a pipes popped off or split hoping nothing too serious...
expected to get home and see a coilpack code, sounds like its struggling for fuel like a digger at work when the diesel filter gets clogged!? starts up fine, no smoke, no water in the oil (too hot to check the water)...
i give up with this motor, go on have a laugh superkarl and jardo lol!-)
i dunno, gotta try to forget about it till tomorrow now i guess as its dark, just have to hope its a hose and check in the morning... grrr
fingers crossed its just the hose.
cheers sandra. anyone know would a coilpack fail and not throw a code... seems like coilpack and its just been mapped!
Very likely a coilpack, classic 3 cylinder syndrome.
Unplug coilpacks one by one, a change in noise (dropping of cylinder) will mean its not that coil.
Alternatively, if coils are difficult to get to, undo inhectors one by one, same thing again, listen for the one that doesnt change the way the car runs.
In an ideal world, if you have a cylinder down you should want to isolate that injector and disconnect it, stop injecting fuel unnecesarily, prevent bore wash.
Obv checks of all hoses, esp the one you know about, could have gone worse.
I dont laugh at peoples misfortunes btw, ive had a fairly catastrophic one once myself.
Appologies for initially being an obnoxious helmet, just with the sig, the title of the thread etc, v misleading and confusing. Plus i was bored outta my mind.
Just unplug the injectors one at a time while the engine is running, quicker and more effective... if the injectors plugs are linked with a plastic bar then carefully lift the plug a little... only needs to come up a little way to disconnect... if the engine note doesn't change then you have found the iffy cylinder...
Tbh coil pack failure after a remap is common as mud... even had it on a TFSI before... that and clutches...
APY won't show a code or EML for coilpacks failure. Mine didn't anyhow but check absolutely everything before you go back to AMD. Your car needs to be at 150% before you get it tweaked, I know this because its what I did before my map and bill had no problems when it came to mapping it.
yeah that, or install a free PDF reader...
right... i have light, im gonna have a coffee and get out there! thanks for all the replys and no prob karl i dont take things to heart and give as good as i get mate.
not as easy as it sounds to find a genuine one, last one i tryed made lotsa changes to my computer!
Log in or Sign up to hide this advert.
well removing the plug on coilpack one (most to the left) seemed to have no effect, 2 and 4 did, 3 was stuck due to a broken clip! im guessing i should try coilpack 1 on another cylinder before i buy some right to eliminate wireing...
probably gonna need some is it worth going 20l tfsi with adapters?
bill no they didnt fit a 4 bar fpr
also after a 20min drive none of the earlier codes returned...
Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions
For CLARITY Jutarn...
This post is WRONG and MISLEADING and yes I am shouting!
You have posted K03s stage 2 AmD listing Not K04
and when diagnosing a misfire, do the injectors one by one not the bloody coilpacks... so much easier.. and as tuffty said.
moved coil pack 1 to position 4 and it shows the coilpack to be faulty i think... noise changes slightly but more so on the working coilpacks...
guess 4 new is the way to go... shall i stick with hitachi also are all the 1.8t coilpacks the same?
you should get a set of RS4 coilpacks for a bit more HP
dont mind me, I'm just
Dude... pulling injector plugs while engine is idling is way less effort and far more accurate way of diagnosing which coil pack is faulty...
Stick to OE/Hitachi packs... Beru and no mane ones are absolute ****e... had a customer come in with a missfire when boost came in... bought new 4 x packs from ECP (Beru) and all 4 were faulty.... OE/Hitachi bolt downs rarely go wrong... you can also use TFSI push in packs using the OE coil pack adaptors (couple of quid each)...
are these genuine? says ngk tho?New NGK Ignition Coil Pack AUDI S3 8L 1.8 Quattro 1999-01 (APY + AMK Eng.) | eBay
Not genuine as such... I rate NGK plugs over anything all day long but didn't even know they madde coil packs... the advert is wrong though... they are not for the AMK engine code as they use push downs... not unheard of for sellers to get it wrong as they go off a list supplied by the manufacturer who get it wrong too... I just bought a sump on ebay that was listed as S3 Quattro and its for a TDi so has no oil return... I don't really work on TDi's so didn't notice but the seller tried arguing that S3 Quattro's came with TDi engines!!!! LM actual AO!!!
Thought the bolt down Beru were rebranded Hitachi?
I bought a set of Breu bolt downs from ECP and they were scraped off where the VAG part numbers normally are, but on one you can still make out the first 3 digits, looks like 06B
now beru / hitachi = same thing. wasn't always the case.Tuffty blinked and missed the change
not according to their website mate lol, click product, audi, s3, 210bhp, then stage 2 and see for your self
also i have now pulled the injectors and confirmed the dodgy coilpack is now in location 4 where i moved it too!-)
i may be collecting a set of tfsi coilpacks that bolt down? aftermarket custom low mileage red ones from a tuning company the guy said? also a toyosport fmic and all pipework and brackets, the pipes are all welded so theres only two joins to the car and it fits below the crash bar in the airflow and is 3.5 inch thick...
The guy said he ran it on his gt3276 (or summit like that) set up and it worked better than a wellie due to the whole lot being in the air rather than behind the bumper. he said he's had arguements with bill apparently, about his car running 450hp and 350blsft of torque on standard internals??? (not saying i'm agreeing with him at all btw!-)) bit random he's from enfield london and had a silver facelift s3... it blew up un-surprisingly and he's now driving a big power leon, sounded north london/indian forget his name,,, any ideas? old member?
LOL... dude think about it.... why is a smaller FMIC better than a larger one 'just' because its behind the bumper? the exposed area to the airstream of the FMIC is no different... still the same sized hole in the bumper but... the smaller FMIC will flow less FACT! and will not be anywhere as effective as a larger core... its not all about the exposed are, the rows of the core have smaller cross-sectional area... you would be going from a large pipe to a small pipe causing pressure drop, increased airspeed and friction (creating more heat) and less surface area to actually heat exchange which will lead to heat soak..
Fitting a large FMIC core gives you the same exposed to air area but with increase flow potential and efficiency of cooling... stick to the proven stuff mate... welly cooler is too cheap not to buy one and the AH Fabs V2 is an awesome bit of kit that works and fits OE style...
Based on what you have said I have no doubt Bill would have argued with the guy over those claims... guess the guy ate his own words when his engine ate itself
Check the FAQ thread in the stickies... there is a TFSI coil pack thread linked in there that has all the info..
great cheers tuffty
Right, got some red 20l coilpacks the guy gave me a bam rocker cover. And said they'll fit straight in it?
Yeah... they stick up a little but as you will see in my posts towards the end of the TFSI thread in the FAQ's (you have read that I assume) they don't key into the cover as they are taller... they shouldn't come out or twist but the adaptors positively locate them (requires a little trimming on a push in cover, fit straight on on an APY cover) and for around £2 each they make it look neat... unless you would rather spend 50/60 quid on the alloy blingy ones...
...its all in that thread ;P
i was lazy and read the first page
now i have lol, im desperate to get these on, is it worth fitting the bam rocker with instant gasket or shall i wait and get a proper gasket?
Sorry bit of a de-rail here.... Did you buy the 8P coils because they was cheaper or because there was once some thought they are better than the originals? Not sure when mine where last replaced (if ever) so I'm probably living on borrowed time.. Nice to read your thread, interested to see what your car puts out on the dyno - pretty much similar set up to me. Saving for FMIC then it's back to R-Tech for Stage2.