A4 2.5 TDI Injector 3 (Needle Lift)
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Darran
Registered User
Maybe i could not say without being there and looking, if looks doable then yes try it but make sure the nozzle is tight and can not come out if it does your in trouble cuz it will drop into the cylinder and make a real mess of things.
The nozzle will unscrew from the injector, beware - the needle valve is under pressure from a spring in the body of the injector - something like this...
You'll have to make sure all the bits from the original injector get transferred to the new one - it is the internals including the needle valve that determine the characteristics of the nozzle.
I've never opened mine but there was several threads in one of the diesel forum posts talking about the nozzles and adjusting needles for more power etc.
Frank
You'll have to make sure all the bits from the original injector get transferred to the new one - it is the internals including the needle valve that determine the characteristics of the nozzle.
I've never opened mine but there was several threads in one of the diesel forum posts talking about the nozzles and adjusting needles for more power etc.
Frank
Hi Frank, thanks once again.
Isn't the needle valve the faulty bit in my original injector?
I thought your original problem was the needle lift sensor? The needle valve is right at the tip of the nozzle held in by a spring and is purely mechanical. It could be that this also has wear but unless it's inspected by a diesel infection specialist then you'll never know.
As Darren has confirmed the nozzle from your new injector is the wrong one then I'd say the best course of action would be to swap the nozzle from the original injector to your new one and give it a shot.
As Darren has confirmed the nozzle from your new injector is the wrong one then I'd say the best course of action would be to swap the nozzle from the original injector to your new one and give it a shot.
Hi Darran, sorry me again!!!
Are you absolutely sure that the number relates to the nozzle, and that they are defintely different before I potentially f**k them up before taking them apart?
Darran
Registered User
Try gsf or ecp for the broken bit they should be cheaper than audi.
As for the injector looking at the bosch catalogue the only difference between the injectors all with the first number coding is the nozzles change and that seems to relate to the last number, but to be sure ring a Bosch agent and check with them before stripping the injector.
As for the injector looking at the bosch catalogue the only difference between the injectors all with the first number coding is the nozzles change and that seems to relate to the last number, but to be sure ring a Bosch agent and check with them before stripping the injector.
Just spoken to BOSCH, and they are saying that the last 3 digits has no relevance to the nozzle, and that they should be the same injector!!!
AAARRRGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone want and A4 Cabriolet ... was a good runner, however it is currently missing the doors and rear end!!!
It looks like I can only get that Fuel Filter Valve from Audi direct.
AAARRRGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone want and A4 Cabriolet ... was a good runner, however it is currently missing the doors and rear end!!!
It looks like I can only get that Fuel Filter Valve from Audi direct.
I don't remember having to take the doors off to get to the injectors 
Try ebay for the valve - some about £16 new, cheaper if you want someone's cast-off.
Alternatively try a VW dealership or TPS (Trade Parts Specialist) with the part number from yours as they could well be cheaper.
I have a spare injector at home, I'll whip the nozzle off tonight and send you some photos of the internals so you know what's under there if you think that'll help.
Frank
Try ebay for the valve - some about £16 new, cheaper if you want someone's cast-off.
Alternatively try a VW dealership or TPS (Trade Parts Specialist) with the part number from yours as they could well be cheaper.
I have a spare injector at home, I'll whip the nozzle off tonight and send you some photos of the internals so you know what's under there if you think that'll help.
Frank
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Hi Frank,I don't remember having to take the doors off to get to the injectors
Try ebay for the valve - some about £16 new, cheaper if you want someone's cast-off.
Alternatively try a VW dealership or TPS (Trade Parts Specialist) with the part number from yours as they could well be cheaper.
I have a spare injector at home, I'll whip the nozzle off tonight and send you some photos of the internals so you know what's under there if you think that'll help.
Frank
From what Bosh have said, they are the same injector, which is very confusing.
Not sure I want to take the replacement apart if I don't need to, and it was simply a seating/sealing issue.
What are your thoughts, as I don't want to put it back together and take it apart again!
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To be honest I only looked at the audi part number, the car my replacements came off had the same engine code and the same Audi part number so I knew they were from a 180bhp car.
With the number of needle lift issues that crop up I would be surprised if the sensor in your new injector outlived the mechanical parts of the injector so you are probably safe cleaning out the port and fitting it with a new crush washer. Fingers crossed it's all good after that.
If it does still run badly after then put VCDS on it and check engine groups 13 & 14 to find out what the injectors are flowing fuel wise.
Good luck, Frank.
With the number of needle lift issues that crop up I would be surprised if the sensor in your new injector outlived the mechanical parts of the injector so you are probably safe cleaning out the port and fitting it with a new crush washer. Fingers crossed it's all good after that.
If it does still run badly after then put VCDS on it and check engine groups 13 & 14 to find out what the injectors are flowing fuel wise.
Good luck, Frank.
Darran
Registered User
Afternoon Frank,
Thank you for all you help and guidance, will let you know how i get on
Ben
Darran
Registered User
click the ebay link above mate , £6 something for the valve you need. I only asked because if you were nearer i would have popped round but your almost at the end of the world from me.
Ha ha, cheers Darran.
I have located the part at TPS, anything I should bear in mind when fitting it - air locks etc?
Whish me luck!!!!!
Thank you for all your help and guidance.
I have located the part at TPS, anything I should bear in mind when fitting it - air locks etc?
Whish me luck!!!!!
Thank you for all your help and guidance.
Darran
Registered User
Darran
Registered User
Apparently later ones do.
Which year I don't have a clue.
Quattro fuel tanks
Have a suction swirl thang
That moves fuel over the big lump in the tank made by the propshaft.
(Yeah ok, went wrong at the end!)
Frank
Which year I don't have a clue.
Quattro fuel tanks
Have a suction swirl thang
That moves fuel over the big lump in the tank made by the propshaft.
(Yeah ok, went wrong at the end!)
Frank
She's alot smoother, still getting a little jutter every now an then, but VCDS keeps saying engine mount stage 1 ?
One of the engine mounts has a solenoid and some (pink?) gunge in it, it's the only one with a wire going to it when viewed from underneath.
Some guys on here have replaced with solid B5 mounts, some with the full new electro-hydraulic and others done nothing. Besides the fault code I think it'll make very little difference.
Frank
Some guys on here have replaced with solid B5 mounts, some with the full new electro-hydraulic and others done nothing. Besides the fault code I think it'll make very little difference.
Frank
Ok so i spoke to soon, she's lumpy again!!!
How do i check timing?
Remember I am a complete novice at VCDS.
Tried following some instructions, but couldn't find half the icons that were in the guide!!!
How do i check timing?
Remember I am a complete novice at VCDS.
Tried following some instructions, but couldn't find half the icons that were in the guide!!!
I'm pretty much a novice too so here's to blind leading the blind...
Think it's group 0, then select basic settings then bottom right should be TDi timing graph. Others have said it only works on group 4, so try them both.
Engine has to be over 85 degrees for it to be accurate. Is your VCDS a registered version?
Think it's group 0, then select basic settings then bottom right should be TDi timing graph. Others have said it only works on group 4, so try them both.
Engine has to be over 85 degrees for it to be accurate. Is your VCDS a registered version?
Darran
Registered User
Darran
Registered User
I supercharged a corvette a couple of years ago and 60+ dgrees of advance on WOT , exhausts warmed a 2000 sq ft garage up in secs LOL, couldn't figure it out till i found 2 wires the wrong way round on MSD dizzy , Ooooops
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The Ross Tech website says group 004 for the V6 tdi, then switch to basic settings, then click TDI timing.
The graph should then look something like this...
With the green line being advanced, red being retarded and blue being factory spec.
The graph should then look something like this...
With the green line being advanced, red being retarded and blue being factory spec.
Darran
Registered User
Darran
Registered User
