A3 temp gauge

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adjturbo

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i just got back from cornwall (about 600mile round trip) and when i got home my temp gauge needle was rite down the bottom reading 60. last time i checked it it was just under 90 (normal position). hav driven it a few times since and it sits at 60 for ages then goes up, then down again. anyone got any ideas on wot the prob may be?
Cheers
Adam
 
Your thermostat could be sticking open when it hits the correct temperature. The coolant then runs constantly and the temp dial shows zero.

Dave N
 
I had this on my last car - a 1.8T Golf. Usually the car would warm up as normal to 90, then on fast roads drop down to 60. I lived with it for a while. My VAG techninican mate said it could just be bubbles in the radiator - I think I just had the big 30k service and radiator flush.

But basically, I was told as long as the car isn't over heating then everythings okay. I wasn;t so sure though, but lucky changed cars shortly after.
 
Dave
is this a major prob and something i should sort ASAP or can it wait. i got my big 60k service coming up in about 3k.
 
I'm not sure if its a major problem if it is the thermostat the coolant is running all the time and keeps the the engine temp down but this may result in keeping the oil temp down.

If your dealer is local I would pop in and talk to one of the mechanics to check. Seeing as you are going to get the 60k service soon they might give you an honest answer. Sorry I cant be more helpful.

Dave N



Dave N
 
will do that at the wkend. cheers anyway dave. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
 
ive got the exact same problem right now, i had the AA out when it was running on 3 cylinders and when he plugged in the computer, it showed up 2 faults, max boost exceeded (chipped) and temp guage fault. Take it to audi and the fault will show up 4 them. I intend getting this sorted at next service too, which is due in 5k (60k service)
 
Air bubbles in the system could be a major problem, not only do you get ineffective cooling but also possible damage can occur to parts such as the pump from cavitation, so get it seen too! If it's the thermostat getting stuck then again get it seen to, especially with the cold weather on it's way (Eventually). You want the engine upto to running temp as soon as possible which becomes extremely hard to achieve on short trips, but near impossible when the thermostat is constantly open.

If it was the height of summer still I wouldn't be concerned but with winter on it's way getting the engine up to temperature is the biggest concern.
 
i spoke to my local dealer yesterday. the car is booked in for a diagnostic next wednesday morning. i will let u know wot they find.
Adam
 
Went to Audi this morning and they have told me i need a new water pump /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif, the turbine on my current pump is disintergrating therefore not pumping the water round as it should, hence the eratic nature of the temp gauge.
The cost is just short of the £300 mark, this may not sound that much but the part itself is only around £80!!
Not too impressed as i have only had the car a month but hey ho these things happen.
Just wondered if the above would affect fuel consumption/performance as my TS seems to be using more petrol than normal.
cheers
adam
 
I think the parts even cheaper than that, i had mine go and was in no position at the time to attempt relacing it myself so got the stealer to do it and was not impressed with the final bill.
 
I had my pump replaced at my 60k service when the timing belt was being changed as from a labour cost perspective it was cheaper to have it changed then then wait for a failure before replacing it.

Dave N
 
the car is booked in for wednesday at audi. i asked about the cambelt change because i was goin to hav it done at the same time as the pump, instead of at my 60k service which is only 3k away. but the guy on the service desk told me it dosnt need doin until 80k /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif i thought that this was strange as i have always found on most cars that the cam belt should be done at 60k but he was most adament about it. can anyone clarify this?
cheers
 
The Audi Spec on the 150 Bhp 1.8 T is 180,000 km i.e about 115,000 miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

The 180 and 225 are ~80,000 miles.

Just had my 1.8T done at 94,000 (100k service) and got them to check the book.
 
Got my car back from Audi last nite /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif, They have replaced the water pump and the temp sensor, the bill was just over £350 but the parts only came to £55. im in the wrong job!!
but on a brighter note the work was good, the service was great and the car seems quicker and more economical /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Adam
 
Wheres the temperature sensor? Mine has a fault with the coolant temp sensor (according to VAG-COM) so need to take a look at it.

Rich
 
I think there's 2 on the engine one for the ECU and one for the diplay gauge, but I have no idea where they are...as I'm too lazy to do anything on my car lately and enjoy wasting my money getting stealers to do the work!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
no idea either im afraid, just took it to the steeler. there are definately 2 sensors tho, i spoke to a specialist before i took my car to audi and he said that one is pretty easy to get too but the other is a pain.
sounds silly and a bit amaturish but u tried lookin in a haynes manual? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush2.gif
adam
 
[ QUOTE ]
adjturbo said:
u tried lookin in a haynes manual?

[/ QUOTE ]

You tried finding one first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh_roll.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh_roll.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Gambba said:
[ QUOTE ]
adjturbo said:
u tried lookin in a haynes manual?

[/ QUOTE ]

You tried finding one first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh_roll.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh_roll.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
I agree with AudiSi, my dealer advised changing between 60-70k. It may be something to do with the MY mine is MY98 maybe later models can last longer. But 115k sound like pushing your luck seeing as if it breaks its going to cost a lot more then a belt change.
 
Bit late to back out now - not a good idea to annoy the local Audi man or I'd have no-one left to trust!
Sounds like water pump will be about the right age to go to the great scrapsite in the sky, so I'll go ahead with the plan to get the work done tomorrow.
 
my TS has done almost 57k, my next service is due at 59k. i was goin to wait but was advised against it because if the pump does fail completly u could end up doin a lot a damage to the engine. Also if the pump isnt working properly it will affect your MPG and performance, as the engine will not be operating at the correct temp /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I had my pump replaced a week ago today and i am averaging an extra 10MPG!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif the car also feels that much better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Adam
 
Well mines a MY 97 and they don't come much older than that. I had previously checked with Audi UK as well and they said 120,000 miles and that was based of the VIN for the car so I think the numbers are OK and Audi UK obviously have no advantage to mislead you (quite the opposite in fact).
 
Stuart, personally i'd just wait for the pump to fail before replacing it, we have a saying in the industry 'if it aint broke don't fix it'....doesn't apply to everything!

I would probably get the belt done at around 60K on a chipped car and probably 75K on a non-chipped car, and at the same time probably have the pump changed.
 
Well, got pump and belt done yesterday. Also asked him to stuff some oil in while he was at it.
Total bill was 330 pounds. Probably would have been about 300 if I hadn't got the oil done.
Mileage was 65k. He said the rollers on the tensioner were pretty stiff, and they certainly weren't rolling too nicely when I checked the one he removed, and he said the water pump came apart in his hands, so I guess it would have started giving me trouble fairly soon anyway.
 
the temp sensors are in a plastic housing on the side or back of the head.... they are really easy to change.. but you will need to bleed the water system afterwards

I always like to change cam belts at 60k as I feel there is too much risk leaving it longer... I feel more comfortable driving hard now that its done...

I would also change the water pump and stat at the same time as its a doddle to get at then.
 
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