1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

A3 Rear Light Face-Lift Install (summary of information)

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by Corrado Storm, Jan 25, 2014.

  1. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 25, 2014]
    With help from the information posted on the forum and on the net, I have just successfully installed 2009+ face-lift rear lights to my 55 plate A3 Sportback.

    Most of this information is already on the forum in various places, but while it's fresh in my mind I've tried to pull everything together in one place, which I hope will save search time for others. I've tried to cover-off the questions I had and those I've seen from others on the various threads - hope it's useful to someone!

    Following the advice of others on the forum, I bought my OE lights new from autoteilemann.de via German e-bay:

    AUDI A3 8P SPORTBACK FACELIFT LED-RÜCKLEUCHTEN NEU OE! | eBay

    I paid circa £190 delivered, and they arrived within 3 days - very efficient service. The price does fluctuate with £/Euro exchange rate, so if you time it well you may even improve on this price slightly. For comparison, I was quoted £170 delivered second-hand from an e-bay dismantler/breaker; and £260 delivered from an Audi Main Dealer. For the additional £20 over the breaker, I prefered to have box fresh and warantied, thus reducing the risk of wasting my time fitting a broken second-hand set.

    Kufatec conversion looms seemed to be the ones of choice on the forum, with some reference to Kuftec being an OE supplier?
    They are available in the UK for £50, though I got mine from Ampire Germany for a similar price. Delivery was again very efficent.

    Facelift LED Rear Lights - Adapter - Audi A3 8PA Sportback-36507

    Codeing was the only other cost, and I paid £30 at a local autoelectrician, though many people on the forum have the kit to program so, if you can find someone local, you can probably get it done much cheaper.

    So, in total, the face-lift cost me £270

    I'm reasonably handy, but no expert, and found the install very straightforward.

    If you haven't removed the rear lights on an A3 before, this video is really worth watching first. While 'simple-when-you-know-how', removing the outer lights can be tricky if you haven't done it before, and there are stories of damaged paint & bodywork while trying. My recommendation on this would be to invest in a proper rubberised plastic trim removing lever, as prying with a metal screwdriver is likely to damage paint work. As you will see from the video, there are 2 "ball-&-socket" securing lugs on the side of the lights and, having undone the plastic securing bolt inside the boot, you then need to gently lever these ball-clips out. This part isn't shown clearly in the video and perhaps make it look slightly easier than it is, but use a trim remover (like the orange tool the guy has in this video) to gently prise the light unit out to the side of the car to release the "ball-&-socket" joint. Once out about 5mm, the ball pops out of the retaining socket, and the light unit is free. This is probably the biggest area of risk to damage the light unit or the bodywork, so take your time on this bit - excessive force shouldn't be needed! As the video shows, when fitting the new lights insert the "ball-&-socket" lugs end first, then manouvre the other end into position, and secure with the long black plastic retaining "nut" from inside.

    Brake Light Change 2006-2013 Audi A3 - 2008 Audi A3 Quattro 3.2L V6

    The Kufatec instruction sheet (link below) was very clear in the removal process for the inner/boot-lid lights. You do need to remove the interior trim panel from inside the boot. Having removed the 4 screws as indicated in the instructions, it is just a case of pulling the panel away from the boot lid to separate it from its retaining lugs. You do need to pull quite firmly to get the panel to release. Similarly, when refitting the panel, having checked that all the lugs and boot-lock suround are aligned, you need to give the panel a reasonable thump with the heal of your hand to re-engage it on it's lugs before securing with the 4 screws (see photos in instruction sheet). The light units themselves are secured by a single nut which holds a white plastic retaining arm (have a look at the location of this arm on the new light, and all becomes clear when looking into the recess of the boot lid). The only thing to note when installing the new ones is that there is a locating channel (or 2 lugs) which needs to locate around the side edge of the boot lid to pull the lights flush. Once inserted and flush, they are secured from inside with the plastic arm and nut.



    http://www.bilkomponenter.no/users/...celift_rear_lights_Audi_A3_8PA_englisch_1.pdf


    Connecting the Kufatec looms was very straight forward. They come in two separte bags, 1 left and 1 right. The German word for left begins with the letter 'L', and right 'R', so that keeps things simple for non-German speakers like myself - RIGHT being the driver's side on a UK car (Right hand drive!).

    On the outer lights, you simply unplug the existing loom plug from the back of the light, and plug the short Kufatec loom between this plug and the back on the new light unit. The plugs on each end of the loom are different, and can only be inserted one way round, so you can't get it wrong.

    On the inner/boot-lid lights, the loom is equally plug-&-play and fool proof. The only "autoelectrician" bit you need to do is route the single long wire from each loom to the centre of the boot-lid where you solder a connection to the grey wire of the number plate lamp (which supplies a feed to the inner LED tubes when the lights are turned on), and then insulation tape this new joint into the loom.

    Some people have mentioned problems with water getting into the plugs of the conversion loom and recommended wrapping them in insulation tape. The area behind the lights on my car was bone dry despite the very wet winter we've had, so I didn't bother to tape the plugs, I just ensured the loom was clipped to the back of the light in its original position.

    That's it from the installation perspective!

    All of my lights worked perfectly/correctly at this point, so the car is perfectly safe and legal to drive if you need to take it to a garage for the recode. The only issue you have at this stage (which the coding resolves) is that the LED tube flashes 6 times when the Ignition key is first turned-on as the system tries to 'bulb test' what is now an LED tube. Also, the 2 bulbs in the outer light units illuminate as 'lights' inside the LED tube when the lights are switched on, but they do also glow brighter when the brake is applied so are quite legal. The re-code switches these two bulbs off as 'lights' leaving them to function just as 'brake lights' which leaves the centre of the LED tube shape dark until the brake is applied.

    I had the recode done at a garage, so can't give any direct advice on this, other than to say the coding provided here worked:

    General Electronics, coding, help with long coding:

    Byte 9 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 10 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 12 to Dec = 48 (brightest setting for bulbs; 36 being a slightly dimmer alternative)
    Byte 19 to De-active (turns off the bulb-check function of the LED tube, thus stopping the flickering when ignition switched on)

    Byte 18 to Bit 2 (this remains unchanged unless fitting LED bulbs and allows bulb check on the remaining conventional bulbs)

    Thanks to everyone who helped me! End result does look good!
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2014
    #1
    manor13, discostu49 and Jbelly like this.
  2. Ads

    Ads

    [Nov 27, 2014]

  3. jphc
    Offline

    jphc P R N D S

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2013
    Messages:
    107
    Likes Received:
    6
    [Jan 25, 2014]
    Fantastic guide. Thanks. :)
    #2
  4. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Jan 25, 2014]
    Well done mate thanks for the time and effort put into write up you may potentially save me £300 with this post
    #3
  5. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Jan 26, 2014]
    oh nervous times, I Just orderd the lights £190 delivered.... Going to give it a bash hopefully can do it
    #4
  6. Mindak
    Offline

    Mindak Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    44
    [Jan 26, 2014]
    Can't wait to get some for mine, got any pics?
    #5
  7. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 26, 2014]
    My camera / camera skills aren't really doing them justice with the night shots!

    Do a quick Google Images search for: 'Audi A3 Sportback Rear Lights' and there are some really good pics day and night.
    #6
  8. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 26, 2014]
    Good luck with the install!

    If you follow the instructions, and just take your time I'm sure you'll be fine. Just don't force anything when removing or installing the light units. Lower the boot lid carefully to check everything is in the right place before slamming it shut, etc, etc.

    The boot lid cover does need a bit of a tug to release it (once the four retaining screws are out); you can get your had into the slots you have removed the covers from and pull firmly from there. The metal retaining clips do make a slightly worrying noise as they pull out, but are fine. There are also some little rubber anti-rattle blocks which push on to various lugs; they can drop off, so check they are back in place before you reinstall the panel.

    The connector block for the number plate light is behind the left hand/passenger side number plate light. Follow the route of the existing looms in the boot to get the new wires to this point, tapeing the new wires to the loom to avoid them getting damaged. I just melted a section of insulation off the existing grey wire with a soldering iron rather than cutting it, and then connected the 2 new wires to this point and soldered the joint.

    I did the 2 boot-lid lights first, as these are the most involved, and I figured if it went badly wrong and I needed to drive the car to a garage, my main lights would still be working.... ....though I guess Fog lamps may be pretty useful in Perth at the moment!!

    "Obviously" have the lights & ignition switched off when doing the install. Can't think of anything else to watch-out for.

    If you are comfortable with what you have seen in the video and read in the instruction manual, I don't think you'll find much to catch you out with this install.

    The end result looks very nice on these dark winter mornings & evenings - enjoy!!
    #7
    discostu49 likes this.
  9. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Jan 28, 2014]
    So was on the kufatec uk site and seen the adaptors for £49 however it says at the bottom not suitable for right hand drive?? Does that matter or can I get ones specifically for right hand drive??
    #8
  10. DriverN00B
    Offline

    DriverN00B Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2013
    Messages:
    253
    Likes Received:
    19
    [Jan 28, 2014]
    Brilliant stuff! Thanks a lot, will be very useful.
    #9
  11. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Jan 28, 2014]
    Anyone got an answer for me ??
    #10
  12. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    My understanding is that this isn't an issue for the Sportback model as the lights are symmetrical (2 fogs, 2 reverse, etc); it said the same thing on the web-site I bought from and mine are fine. You do however need to fit the loom(s) labelled right to the right (drivers) side, and left to left (passenger) side. You can always mail/call Kufatec UK directly to double-check, but I'm sure this is fine.

    It may be different on a 3 door model where lights aren't symmetrical, so one for a LHD car may not work?
    #11
  13. DriverN00B
    Offline

    DriverN00B Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2013
    Messages:
    253
    Likes Received:
    19
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    Ordered the lights yesterday btw, looking forward to getting them. How long did it take you to install all in all?
    #12
  14. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    It's probably a couple of hours. Taking the boot cover off and soldering & insulating the joint is the most time consuming bit. The outer lights are literally just plug-&-play once they are out, but can be a bit tricky to get out if you haven't done it before (watch the video if you haven't).

    The coding at the garage took 20 minutes, and I suspect it actually takes less time than that but he had to justify my £30!

    Like all lighting jobs, just don't start it late afternoon when you definitely need to go out after dark that night or it's sure to go badly wrong!!!!

    Good luck!
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2014
    #13
  15. JRock247
    Offline

    JRock247 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Messages:
    442
    Likes Received:
    35
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    Great write up, I'm sure will come in handy for many users.

    We need a 'Modding Instructions/Guide' sticky thread for this exact reason. Users can post their instructions on the thread, making clear what the instructions are for and what vehicle they were written for but ensure it is kept purely for instructions/guides only and not used to ask questions and/or give advise on the instructions/guides in the thread.

    So many times I have seen people asking the same questions that have been asked over and over and over again (i did it when I first started using the site) and with a sticky thread purely aimed for users to post up guides and instructions on mods/work they have carried out on their car, would save users time and help out all.
    #14
  16. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    Corrado storm your a star
    #15
  17. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    #16
  18. manor13
    Online

    manor13 Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2013
    Messages:
    554
    Likes Received:
    84
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    good guide going to be doing this soon.
    #17
  19. Icey
    Offline

    Icey Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2014
    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    6
    [Jan 29, 2014]
    i have these lights.
    i have saved some money and not bought the looms and directly wire it in the car.
    Now could you confirm the pin-outs from the new face-lift lights?
    Here is a picture of what i think the pin-out is

    photo.jpg

    Also when you say a wire from each light to the number plate lights > you mean each inner or all 4?
    Where would you route the wire from the outers to the boot lid?

    thanks
    #18
  20. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Jan 30, 2014]
    This link shows you the routing inside the boot-lid, and also that you only need to connect the 2 boot-lid lights to the number plate lights to get a feed for the LED tubes. The LED tubes on the 2 outer lights take their feed from what was the original lighting circuit.

    http://www.bilkomponenter.no/users/k...englisch_1.pdf

    I didn't look in detail at the new-to-old pin configuration on the conversion looms, so can't help you there. Perhaps some of the guys who are about to do the install will be able to look at their looms & light for you before fitting.
    #19
  21. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Jan 30, 2014]
    Lights arrived nothing Yous haven't seen before will take pics of the install to help with the thread
    uploadfromtaptalk1391115765897.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1391115785555.jpg
    #20
  22. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 2, 2014]
    I'm in the process now

    do the old rear fogs just pull out with a good tugg or are they bottled in
    #21
  23. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 2, 2014]
    They are installed easy job ran into problems with a propane solder iron so had to go out and buy solder and extension lead during the process just need to get them coded now uploadfromtaptalk1391361263229.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1391361279993.jpg
    #22
  24. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 3, 2014]
    As title anyone in the Perth area have vcds and can change the codes for my lights local garage want £50
    cheers
    #23
  25. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 3, 2014]
    Think I've taken over this thread with questions ha, o be more tho got a guy doing the codes tonight but byte19 should this be active or de-active on page 1 states byte 19 to de-active however all other searches state byte19 must be activated ...??? Confused plus I don't get the flickering at the moment
    #24
  26. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Feb 3, 2014]
    Mine flashed when the ignition electrics were first switched-on as the system performs a 'bulb check' through what is now an LED tube. The flickering only lasts a few seconds and then the tube light is stable, so maybe get someone else to turn the ignition key while you stand at the back of the car to check.

    I had Byte 19 set to DE-ACTIVE, and no longer get flickering.

    The auto electric garage which coded mine asked if I intended using LED bulbs in the bulb holders; if I had, they would have also set Byte 18 to De-Active (i.e. Turn off the bulb test function) to avoid 'blown bulb' warning lights on dash, etc.

    I kept the standard bulbs which came fitted in the lighting unit, so left Byte 18 Active so I get the bulbs checked on start-up.
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
    #25
  27. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 3, 2014]
    sorted, love these lights one of the best mods you can do to a old Audi
    uploadfromtaptalk1391462374701.jpg
    #26
  28. LEE69
    Online

    LEE69 07 170 DSG

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    1,003
    Likes Received:
    117
    [Feb 5, 2014]
    I agree, best mod I have done to mine.
    #27
  29. southylad
    Offline

    southylad Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    25
    [Feb 5, 2014]
    Just ordered mine mate will try and fit myself also a friend has vcds but does not really know how to do all the codeing yet is it easy enough for a newbi or am I best getting someone else to do it ? Also you say these are listed as left hand drive car fitment but are fine on right hand drive?
    #28
  30. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 5, 2014]
    Just read the first post a few times and watch the link it is easy enough vcds is easy aswell
    #29
  31. southylad
    Offline

    southylad Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    25
  32. LEE69
    Online

    LEE69 07 170 DSG

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    1,003
    Likes Received:
    117
    [Feb 5, 2014]
    Yeah spot on
    #31
  33. discostu49
    Offline

    discostu49 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    62
    [Feb 5, 2014]
    I used the kufatec ones that were £50 dont know what the difference is
    #32
  34. southylad
    Offline

    southylad Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    25
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    Hi mate have you still got the wireing instructions if so can you post them up as the cables ive got are the same but the instructions are in poor english the cables are easy enough they are marked left and right but where does the small wire get soldered to?
    #33
  35. LEE69
    Online

    LEE69 07 170 DSG

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    1,003
    Likes Received:
    117
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    It goes to the grey wire feeding the numberplate lights
    #34
  36. Corrado Storm
    Offline

    Corrado Storm New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    5
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    #35
    southylad likes this.
  37. southylad
    Offline

    southylad Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    25
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    Thats great cheers mate I got the cables today and the lights will be here in a day or two I will fit them and have a go at codeing them Im just not very slilled with vcds and I cant seem to find a how to guid for codeing the led lights, did you just strip a bit of the grey wire and solder to it?
    #36
  38. LEE69
    Online

    LEE69 07 170 DSG

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    1,003
    Likes Received:
    117
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    General Electronics, coding, help with long coding:
    Byte 9 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 10 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 12 to Dec = 48 (brightest setting for bulbs; 36 being a slightly dimmer alternative)
    Byte 19 to De-active (turns off the bulb-check function of the LED tube, thus stopping the flickering when ignition switched on)
    #37
  39. southylad
    Offline

    southylad Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    25
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    Cheers I read that but it gets a bit daunting when ive got a module open and all the letters and numbers on the long codeing I get scared I will do something wrong and something wont work when I unplug
    #38
  40. LEE69
    Online

    LEE69 07 170 DSG

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    1,003
    Likes Received:
    117
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    in the correct byte you just need to delete the value iirc it was 22? delete the 22 and put 0

    Yes it does look daunting but if you make a note before you change anything, you can go back.
    #39
    southylad likes this.
  41. southylad
    Offline

    southylad Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    25
    [Feb 11, 2014]
    I will have a go, dont be supprised if I have to post for help tho but you learn nothing nothaving a go eh cheers



    #40

Share This Page