A3 2.0 tdi 170bhp 2007 cutting out!!

[Spiceman101]

hello all pls could anyone help with the above car.
The problems I'm experiencing on my car it's itermittenly cutting out when coming to a stop at roundabouts/traffic lights or pulling away. When it dies I try turning the key and starting again but it tries to fire up but switching off with the rev needle just dropping to zero, if I'm lucky it starts but more often I'm getting towed away.

I've have a Audi mechanic looking at it now but still struggling to pin point the problem.
At first he found oil contamination in the fuel filter so we decided to change the fuel pump and injector seals but on test driving the fault of intermittently cutting out was still happening.
Now he has sent away the ECU to be checked to see if its faulty.
The car isn't showing any faults codes when connected up to the ECU.

Has anyone else had symptoms like this or know what direction he could start looking into next?
The car has done 68,000 miles and had all the injectors replaced about 3 years ago on a recall.

Would really appreciate if someone could help.

Thank you.

 

[Marek196c]

Can you tell me your engine code?
Got some printout of fault codes by VCDS.
Check also the inlet manifold gasket as on mine (BKD) was leaky and on start was pulling a bit of white smoke sometimes. Air filter clogged, MAF fault?

 

[Spiceman101]

Hi, thanks for your reply.
Sorry but I'm limited to information at the moment as the car is still being worked on in the garage at the moment so its not with me.

I took the car to a audi main dealer to be told they are not allowed to print off the fault codes for customers. Is this true? I paid 60 pounds to be told there was no fault codes.

I forgot to mention the car is Automactic too
Thx

 

[Spiceman101]

Also worth a mention is that the mechanic said once he disconnected the battery and connected it back up the car started? This was the reason he sent the ECU of for being tested.
Any ideas?

 

[Marek196c]

battery reset the ecu in some part, that's true, worth checking the correct timing and cranking sensor, could be that ecu seeing some possible danger so shutting down.. maybe on slowing it's triggering the cranking sensor to be off the place... to check this theory you can drive the car on some private road (w/o traffic) or park lot and try to stop normally on drive, and before you start breaking put into neutral then stop the car.
other than basic health check of engine can unveiling something related: compression of cylinders, injectors and pd checks, air intake check, turbo for any plays on shaft?

 

[Spiceman101]

Thanks marek196c for helping me, really appreciate this.
Good point mentioning the crank sensor or timing. So I'm definitely going to change the sensor as this is what showed up as a fault code but the mechanic dismissed it saying it was more likely trigged from myself when repeatedly trying to start the car once I broke down ( tried until battery went flat ).

I so hope this is the reason why it's stalling.
As soon as it's been changed I will update with results.

Thx

 

[aqibi2000]

Crank sensor error does happen due to cranking and no start for more than 10 seconds. Don't replace it imo. Checking the timing is a viable shout.

 

[Marek196c]

Crank sensor error does happen due to cranking and no start for more than 10 seconds. Don't replace it imo. Checking the timing is a viable shout.

in fact didn't say that is faulty sensor, but seen some cases that sensor was not tighten enough and was causing the problems, as well from description seem that something going on the timing, also could be wrong angle of injection.

 

[Spiceman101]

I got my car back today from the garage but the fault of it stalling is still happening.

I have the fault codes now

 

[Retroman]

Several of those "power supply codes" suggest battery problems. Have you had battery problems? Have you replaced the battery for one with exactly the same ratings? If the battery is failing or underpowered, the ECUs in modern cars will ration power to essential driving features and things like ABS and traction control can get shut down.

 

[Retroman]

See the attached thread where the crankshaft (aka engine speed sensor) was the underlying fault and "confusing" other sensors. I've only had my Audi a couple of years and so I don't know all their peculiarities like some on this forum. However, on other cars, I've never known a crankshaft (engine speed) sensor error code (implausible signal) to be thrown by merely cranking the engine a lot in an attempt to get it started.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/vcds-errors-help-needed.298417/#post-2867806

 

[Spiceman101]

Several of those "power supply codes" suggest battery problems. Have you had battery problems? Have you replaced the battery for one with exactly the same ratings? If the battery is failing or underpowered, the ECUs in modern cars will ration power to essential driving features and things like ABS and traction control can get shut down.

Thanks for your reply. I changed the battery about 2 years ago and its been fine, as far as im aware the battery is all okay.

 

[Marek196c]

next to check is the parameters of battery (if it's right battery) as Retroman mentioned, as well alternator (if you got multimeter check if on engine off you got around 12V and on engine running 14V) and potential distributor (for problems with under-voltage). What garage said to you about that?

 

[Spiceman101]

next to check is the parameters of battery (if it's right battery) as Retroman mentioned, as well alternator (if you got multimeter check if on engine off you got around 12V and on engine running 14V) and potential distributor (for problems with under-voltage). What garage said to you about that?

The garage didnt mention anything about the battery to me.
Could these fault codes regarding the battery be when the engine cut out and I tried to start the car many times until the battery went completely flat.

Today I paid the garage 1000 pounds after them having the car for 5 weeks!

I drove the car home today from garage about 7 miles in which this time it didnt stall but at times the rev counter looked abit flickery when pulling to a stop.

 

[Marek196c]

take it back to them if clearly noticeable fault to get it done free of costs.
Obviously we can only try to guess it from your information, so we telling you most probably and most common issues to check regarding the problem/s

 

[Spiceman101]

take it back to them if clearly noticeable fault to get it done free of costs.
Obviously we can only try to guess it from your information, so we telling you most probably and most common issues to check regarding the problem/s

I appreciate any help as my knowledge on cars is extremely low. The garage has given up on finding the problem and basically told me maybe i would be better part exchanging the car for something else.

This Thursday its booked into another garage who work on Audi cars, i hope they consider changing the engine speed sensor this time as it seems like what people are suggesting.

Thank you

 

[Marek196c]

The garage has given up on finding the problem and basically told me maybe i would be better part exchanging the car for something else.

But they took 1k£ from you and they didn't solve whole problem.

 

[Spiceman101]

But they took 1k£ from you and they didn't solve whole problem.

Yes i feel totally gutted.

 

[Marek196c]

Yes i feel totally gutted.

Just speak with them to get it solved or get some cash back.

 

[Retroman]

The problem with plugging a car into a diagnostic error code reader this it can list all codes including ones which may be historic and which have since been rectified. Usual practice is to take a note of them, then delete/re-set them and see if they reoccur as new, up-to-date ones. This is day-to-day ABC stuff to any garage

The ones relating to the parking aid, airbag, air con, dash panel and radio may well be linked to a previous battery problem?

Your car is not that old and is quite low mileage. The injectors are quite new, the fuel pump been changed and the ECU has been checked. I'd be reluctant to guess that it's got major mechanical issues, I would have guessed that a simple 10-year old sensor problem is more likely. But we're all only guessing on an forum

 

[Marek196c]

The problem with plugging a car into a diagnostic error code reader this it can list all codes including ones which may be historic and which have since been rectified. Usual practice is to take a note of them, then delete/re-set them and see if they reoccur as new, up-to-date ones. This is day-to-day ABC stuff to any garage

The ones relating to the parking aid, airbag, air con, dash panel and radio may well be linked to a previous battery problem?

Your car is not that old and is quite low mileage. The injectors are quite new, the fuel pump been changed and the ECU has been checked. I'd be reluctant to guess that it's got major mechanical issues, I would have guessed that a simple 10-year old sensor problem is more likely. But we're all only guessing on an forum

that why my first guess was timing related issue, like timing belt or crankshaft sensor. but as said we never seen a car and probably in person we would say something completely different or in 1st try got the fault found.

 

[Spiceman101]

Hi, just thought i would take my car for a short drive before it goes in the garage tomorrow and once again its broken down. This time different things happened again.

1. Glow plug light flashing
2. Car went into limp mode( couldnt drive over 30mph
3. Pulled over and the engine stalled and wouldnt restart
4. Esp light on when turning key

Its the first time the glow plug light has flashed and its gone into limp mode.

Does this again point to crankshaft sensor?

 

[Spiceman101]

The AA recovery just plugged his machine into my car.

 

[barachello]

Could the injector loom be faulty?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

 

[Jnsio]

With different fault codes each time I would say that it's a electrical problem. Wiring/connector problem somewhere, ECU, injectors or dash wiring/connectors maybe? It's very hard to guess without any hands-on experience on such a complicated problem

 

[Spiceman101]

The vagcom fault codes listed parking aid, dash, airbag, dash, air condintioning maybe from the first time i broke down and i cranked the engine until battery went flat.

Today fault codes listed injectors and boost pressure control limit. The AA guy showed me the reason as to why the boost pressure control fault was listed, it had tiny nicks in the insulation which he think caussed that error.

Thanks guys.

 

[Spiceman101]

Could the injector loom be faulty?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

The injector loom shouldv'e been replaced when they done the injector recall back 3 years ago.
I will double check with Audi tomorrow.
Thx

 

[barachello]

Perhaps the mechanics that have worked on it since have damaged it at some stage

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

 

[Marek196c]

battery reset the ecu in some part, that's true, worth checking the correct timing and cranking sensor, could be that ecu seeing some possible danger so shutting down.. maybe on slowing it's triggering the cranking sensor to be off the place... to check this theory you can drive the car on some private road (w/o traffic) or park lot and try to stop normally on drive, and before you start breaking put into neutral then stop the car.
other than basic health check of engine can unveiling something related: compression of cylinders, injectors and pd checks, air intake check, turbo for any plays on shaft?

my second post was suggesting you the injector advance angles and general injector check, also if was on recall, as well check topic about emission recall from Audi that causing more problems than before it...