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A little info for you on ARP bolts for people that want to fit them

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Andrew@A.L.D, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    Since my engine damage i have been doing a lot of research into ARP bolts, As my standard main bearing bolts stretch under the forces my engine was making i thought it would be a good idea to upgrade and here is what i found.

    If you google ARP 1.8t 20v main stud & nut kit you will most likely end up with a link to a US site like IE that shows you a good price on the part but you will have to pay tax and duties, shipping and a 3 week wait.

    IE don't give out the part numbers as they claim they have them made for them? Ok can you get them in the UK? Yes Bill is one of many. Anyway i was nearly sold some main stud ( not by Bill ) that i was told were for the 1.8t 20v. I was told they were for all water cooled VW's but i found out ( Google again ) that they are the wrong ones when in fact you need ARP 201-5001 these are for a BMW S14 4 cylinder and are a perfect fit with only a little grinding to the sump as seen on Staceys thread page 29.

    Another one is ARP flywheel bolts for the 1.8t, Google that and it will come up with a US site selling them $120 inc shipping ( £80 ) + taxies to pay on top. Again some research on Google and i found the sizes of the bolts needed for for the 1.8t and also a part number of 254-2901 on a US site but with that part number you get to many bolts and with finding out the size i found that you can buy just to one bolt if needed
    http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=37447 or ARP Ford 4.6L 5.4L Modular V8 Flexplate Bolt and for a gran total of £28 for 6 bolts delivered.. not a bad saving don't you think?

    So my advise is to everyone is to do your research on the parts before you buy as you want to get the right part and at the best price also​
    #1
  2. Blackie
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    Blackie Active Member

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    I know Nigel from ARP personally so may be able to get part nos direct if anyone needs any help
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  3. AudiS3-Turbo
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    AudiS3-Turbo Member

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    good info thanks!
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  4. btmotorsport
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    btmotorsport Soon be christmas!!!!!!!!!!

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    I'm looking at getting some ARP main bolts, poss some 2000 conrod bolts as well. Still not sure what the plan is until I take my mullered block to my engine builder. Cheers for the info!!
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  5. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    I would say the limits of the standard 1.8t main bolts are about 500-600 bhp. I stretched mine with 531 bhp so i would say your fine.

    If you have some steel rods then i have a spare set of ARP's 3/8 2000 big end bolts here doing nothing
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  6. btmotorsport
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    btmotorsport Soon be christmas!!!!!!!!!!

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    I was just thinking of the fact that I can reuse them, will price up some more oem ones, only done 450 miles on the engine when it seized. Thanks for the offer, will see what the engine builder says/if the rod (IE) can be saved. Will be in touch if it can, cheers!!
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  7. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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  8. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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  9. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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  10. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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  11. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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  12. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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    Some more info for people using ARP bolts on their builds.

    ARP crankshaft main studs - PART# 201-5001 ( as mentioned in previous post by Andrew, they made for BMW but work for 06A blocks )

    Torque specs
    [​IMG]


    ARP head BOLTS M10 - PART# 204-3901

    Torque specs
    [​IMG]

    ARP head STUDS M10 - PART# 204-4103

    Torque specs
    [​IMG]


    ARP conrod bolts - these are the 3/8 ARP 2000 bolt found on the IE rods.

    Torque specs
    Connecting Rod FAQ — IE AutoBlog

    [​IMG]


    ARP flywheel bolts, as mentioned previously the bolts that you get from the BIG names seem to be the same as the ARP bolts for the Ford modular V8 (PART# 254-2901) and the Ford pinto (PART# 251-2901) I think Andrew bought the V8 ones and I have bought the Pinto ones, yet to be fitted.

    Torque specs - they are the same :yes:
    Modular V8 254-2901
    [​IMG]

    Pinto 251-2901
    [​IMG]


    ARP crankshaft timing gear bolt
    - this is said to be an IE exclusive part. Not sure why its call a damper bolt when it bolts the crankshaft timing belt gear on :uhm:

    ARP Crank Damper Bolt for 06A Late 1.8T/FSI engines

    Torque specs
    Torque to 74 ftlb + 1/4 turn when using 30wt motor oil

    Torque to 78 ftlb + 1/4 turn when using loctite

    (note... reeeeeeeeealy long breaker bar required for the 1/4 turn....)
    Last edited by a moderator: May 9, 2013
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  13. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    For the flywheel bolts I used loctite on the thread and arp lube under the head of the bolt and then torqued them to 60lbs/ft and then to 80lbs/ft but I also double doweled my crank to flywheel to stop them from moving, you can also use shim from IE that grips the flywheel and crank to stop any movement.
    #13
  14. sandwich1987
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    sandwich1987 Member

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    If you buy the #201-5001 meant for the bmw, should you torque it to 80ftlbs that the other ones mention?
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  15. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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    Which other ones do you mean?

    I would stick to the recommended ARP torque settings as per their product codes.
    The oem bolts are torque'd to 65nm + 1/4 turn, which is about 48ft lbs + 1/4 turn.
    #15
  16. superkarl
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    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    'three equal steps'? So torque them 3 times with the 3rd being final?

    I want the arp mains, but i dont like what it states about tolerance changes and it require a hone
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  17. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    Torque the flywheel bolts to 80lbs/ft, Speeding-G60 on vortex has done his to 95 on his drag audi 80

    The have been tests to the flywheel bolt and they don't stretch till around 100lbs/ft

    All others i've stuck to the correct specs
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  18. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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    the equal steps they mean are all nuts up to 20ft lbs then 40ft lbs then 60ft lbs following the OEM bolting sequence.

    I used the ARP mains on the first build an used plastic gauge to check the clearances and all the main and rod journals were within spec. I wrote them down but cant find the paper now.
    When I took it apart all the main bearings still looked new, they were calico race numbers and the coating was perfect.
    I will be building the new engine over this week and I will need to check the clearances again.
    #18
  19. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    Don't worry about the hone as measured the mains when torqued down and they were fine

    Its when you change the rod bolts to aged 625 then you more likely to need to hone the big end
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  20. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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  21. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Thread stuck for now because it contains useful information. Once sticky post is updated i'll put link in thereto be easily found
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  22. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    Sorted, thanks for that mate
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  23. sandwich1987
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    sandwich1987 Member

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    Ignore me, I never noticed it was 80ftlbs for the head stussh/bolts, thought it was 3 different part numbers for the mains....:$
    #23
  24. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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    This happens to the best of us :laugh:
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  25. superkarl
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    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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  26. Scullies
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    Scullies Active Member

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    #26
  27. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    #27
  28. Andrew@A.L.D
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    Andrew@A.L.D Cylinder Head Master

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    Thats correct sam
    #28
  29. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    Awesome ta.
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