Jul 12, 2013
Am after a little bit of growl. Not much. Will a panel filter be sufficient ie k&n or some thing?
Engine?Petrol? Diesel? I think u have an audi thou...
Thou peeps do say with k+n its a has a little more growl
It's a petrol 1.8t. Just a little extra grunt is what I want.
Remap every time mate .... My cab was 163 from the factory the company said it gives between 35/40 bhp it's made it the car it should have been to start with better mpg as well ! Win Win
Bsr optiflow gives a nice sound if thats what you after
Not looking an induction kits as trying to keep oem. But a remap is on cards.
Where can I buy a k&n filter????
I bought a k&N panel filter for my 1.8t and give it a more beefy noise nothing ott though think mine was £38 brand new off ebay felt fitter and a tad quicker aswell as turbod cars work better with filters more than non turbo cars deffo worth investing in
K&N are more prone to cause MAF failure (oil from the K&N damages the MAF) so keep away.
Basics to do for more power.
Chip best bang for the £
Sports CAT and exhaust (The right sport CAT can gain 12bhp alone then whatever the exhaust offers)
FMIC (to keep that power after heat soak)
Also look at up grading breaks at some point.
Never had a problem with K&N filter. Sounds loads better and has to breathe better.
and full ov oil that ****s the maf
a k&n air filter isn't exactly dripping with oil even if it had a little in the air being sucked through it would dry it out plus even if there was oil in filter it wouldn't be enough to cause damage like a said they don't come dripping in oil even a little would only stick to induction pipes ect. k&N have been around for donkeys theyre not gonna create a product that causes damage some people call it a **** make but they are pioneers imo and a well known well established brand
In general I would agree but if you search there had been loads of issues with them in the past but maybe that's been resolved but when it may become an issue is when you clean them and have to oil them again for use, the chances are they may get over oiled and there goes your MAF.
The thing is there have been no proven gains to be had from air filters on our cars hence why no one fits them other than for sound or looks if going for a cone filter which in its own right will give you losses then gains. The only time you would fit a cone filter is if going for big turbo and then the OEM unit will not fit due to the larger turbo.
The only air filter I ever fitted to a Audi was my first 2.8 Supercharged A4 and then I fitted a BMC unit to it which was noted for the power gains it gave.
If you want noise get an open filter tbf a panel filter does nothing for noise or very little just fitted a green cotton filter and sounds very very similar to how it did before
Bez has this happened to you ? Not me and I have used K&N for 17 years and never had a problem. My AVF 1.9 has had their cone filter on for over 40k miles and I've cleaned and re oiled a couple of times.
I think it sounds great, you fairly hear the turbo and the boost being released when lifting off the throttle. Some may say it sounds like a tractor, but I like it.
Darkside developments sell a paper cone filter if you don't trust yourself to clean and oil a K&N properly.
I fail to see how a cone filter with improved breathability developed by a long established and world renowned company, a cold air feed and a good turbo/engine heatshield can give a loss in performance compared to the factory box.
put it on a RR you will see the non gains
Many peeps on here say stay away from cone filter but my bsr kit works great and i actually got a higher rr figure than most on here with the same mods! Some people have good experience some have bad, luck of the draw!
Unless you're going 300bhp+ then I wouldn't bother with a FMIC. In fact, a FMIC can cause a slight loss in power in lower powered cars. Plus they generally look quite chavvy.
The best initial investment should be on chassis and braking:
1. Get an RS4 ARB fitted - will massively improve cornering.
2. Bilstein B12 kit
3. Uprated brakes (3.0 / S4 / Big Brake Kit)
4. Then get a remap (R-Tech: ECU Remapping, Performance Engine Tuning, R-tech are one of the best, or Unicorn: Unicorn Motor Developments, Custom Remapping and ECU Services Stockport)
5. After that I'd look at other engine mods like a sports (high-flow) cat and full exhaust system - Milltek for off the shelf, or have a look at Style Dynamics: Custom stainless steel exhaust systems for a good quality custom system.
True FMIC can lower power but it will allow you to maintain that power for longer by preventing heat soak which will drop way more once the engine is heat soaked........ Pro's and Cons.
Also you could look at a DSMIC from the S-Line model if you can find one cheap also the 2.0T brakes are another good upgrade kit for cheap money not forgetting the B5 RS4 front brake setup which when on my old B5 was amazining and only £20-£25 for brake pads
Yea, but £250 each for the discs! lol, that hurt my wallet pretty bad. Red Stuff pads are £95 too. Next time I'm due new discs I'm having some made so I can reuse the bells in future.
I've got the DSMIC in mine, someone asked if I'd thought about switching to one big ol' front mount one, would this be worth doing?
I do agree with your list though one thing you have to remember is that not everyone is going to be blasting round a track lap after lap after lap. If that is the case then yes I'd say properly sorting your suspension and brakes is a key upgrade to withstand the torture a track will throw at it. For the average road road user though they just want a bit more oomph to accelerate a bit quicker, make faster overtakes etc. In general they wont corner any harder than previously just because they have had a remap.
For joe public I'd say a simple brake pad upgrade to the likes of Ferodo DS2500 pads, using higher boiling point brake fluid and a remap seeing up to 230hp will work just fine. If however you do like cornering rather hard then yes the suspension modifications would be worthwhile. Just my thoughts though.
Sadly stockport is a very long way from me and star is even further so I'm looking into either an APR stage 1+ map (Unsure if my ECU is compatible with APR though) or Revo stage 1. I've read that the APR map is more progressive and has a larger area under the power curve which to me suggests it is the better of the two and less stressful on the mechanical components than the Revo.
You can also look at Revo filters here -
STaSIS Revo Performance Online Shop. Revo Technik
Give Regal a shout, these guys have been in the business for years and are in your area, as I'm sure you know - Regal Autosport
20% discount on all Revo software currently. See website for nearest dealer and power gains - Stage 1 Software
Is the discount still going Steve and is the site price discounted or am I to expect 20% off of the £299+VAT mentioned on the revo site?
If getting prices from our main site, then no they're not showing discount individually, as would take too long to go through all the software we offer. so take the 20% off £299, then add the 20% VAT, so in this case if map is £299 - £287.04 inc (not the school boy error everyone keeps making, thinking £299 - 20% inc VAT is £299! lol)
The boys at Regal are your local dealers and have many many years experience -
| Regal Autosport
SALE ENDS 18th August!!
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