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2.5 TDI V6 cambelt change - help please!

Discussion in 'Diesel forum' started by Joni_s, Oct 6, 2006.

  1. kris_tdi
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    kris_tdi Member

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    [Nov 23, 2006]
    Alright, i need to collect my uncles helicoil kit though as i stripped the thread putting the damn cambelt tensioner pulley back on. other than that ok, i made a tool up to lock the crank. other than that put it all back together and pray to god that the valves were't damaged when the crank sprocket broke.
    #41
  2. Joni_s
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    Joni_s Member

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    [Nov 23, 2006]
    Can anyone tell me what clock position each of the above should be in to lock them in the right place. It may be obivous when i get there but its nice to know before you start.
    Starting tomorrow aft/eve!
    #42
  3. Jason
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    Jason Member

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    [Nov 23, 2006]
    Sorry mate your not having a lot of Luck!

    If it makes you feel any better I had the same problem-Stripped threads!!!Suspect last person to change belt did'nt check seating witha mirror,threaded it and then lock tighted it in!!!!!

    Personaly would'nt touch helicoil,heard of a few working lose on cam belt!! far to dodgy for a cambelt tensioner.
    I drilled and re-tapped to 10mm x 1.75 and got a local turner to cut off the standerd 8mm thread on the pulley bolt,re-drill and tap to 10mmx1.75 and put a 10mmx1.75 bolt in (lock tight) and then cut off to correct lengh.

    Sound as a pound!!

    Good Luck!!
    #43
  4. kris_tdi
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    kris_tdi Member

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    [Nov 23, 2006]
    didn't use a helicoil in the end, drilled out the old thread and put in an insert (timeset or something like that) which locks in place. works fine, and best of news is that it turns over fine now, so no damage to the valves, woohoo. just gotta put the other belts/rad etc back on now and its finnished :):)

    Joni, i didn't lock mine in position, just marked them up, scored a line on the sprockets and casing to line up, all back together fine.

    Took the cambelt tensioner apart again, looks like you have to anyway, the reason why i couldnt push it back in is because there is a non return valve inside. it seems that as the belt loosens the spring pushes the piston up, this lets oil in the non return valve so the spring cannot contract. filled it up with oil and bobs your uncle.

    So if all goes to plan the audi will be coming to work with me on monday, cant wait :):) gonna give it a complete service while im at it, inspection light came on about 30 miles before all this anyway.
    #44
  5. Jason
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    Jason Member

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    [Nov 24, 2006]
    Glad to hear that there's light at the end of the tunnel!

    Fingers crossed.

    Did you not have her fired up just to see after you got the cam belt back on?
    #45
  6. kris_tdi
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    kris_tdi Member

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    [Nov 25, 2006]
    turned her over on the starter motor as hadnt put that metal cover on that tensions the fuel pump at that time i will do that before i put anymore on, off to finnish it all now. Its been a horrible 2 weeks.
    #46
  7. kris_tdi
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    kris_tdi Member

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    [Nov 26, 2006]
    All done, woohoo :):) well just gotta put the lights and bumper back on, kept getting rained off, but she starts up and runs perfect :):)

    How did you get on Joni?
    #47
  8. Jason
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    Jason Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    Excellant kris!! Glad you got it sorted,2 weeks you would like to forget eh!!

    Never mind will soon be christmas!

    Ps:Why did you take your lights off??????
    #48
  9. Joni_s
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    Joni_s Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    Finished too and running fine so far!

    Big job but as long as your slow and methodical its not too bad. To be honest it may even be easier than other 4 cylinder 8v cambelts i've done because you have so much space to see what your doing when you get the AC rad and the coolant rad out of hte way. Incidentally when working on the A4 you need to take the AC rad to the left BUT the coolant rad goes to the right this is due to the power steering pipe (which mounts on the coolant rad) being in the way.

    I didn't use the locking kit in the end - it was a waste of time so i'm gonna take it back. there was no instructions and i'm sure there wasn't enough nuts bolts etc to lock the v6 tdi engine. Anyway i turned the crank to a position where the previous cambelt changer ahd left tip ex marks then i added a few of my own for good measure and removed the tension and took off the old belt. The only slight issue being that when you put the new one back on, the camshaft has moved slightly from the mark (as Jason has talked about earlier in this thread) so i had to turn one of the cam shaftsslightly to make sure i hadn't jumped a tooth. All the rollers etc on the cam belt and serpentien belts had seen better days and some were really rough (although it looked like some had been changed at the last change and were in good condition). I changed everything, rollers, tensioners, all belts even the lever (prob wouldn't do this part again).
    On start up, i thought i heard a strange noise and the revs moved up and down slightly between 700-900rpm but no major problems. To be safe i had a look at everything again. I spaced out a couple of the rollers marginally with a washer as the belt was not running centrally (same on the old rollers so not due to me doing something during the change). Checked every bolt again for correct torque including the waterpump (good job as the gasket had compressed by now and the bolts needed a little tightening).

    The part that confused me was the injection pump tensioner. Its really quite strange. I put the new one on in exactly teh same position as the old one so i think that is right but wondered if Jason, kris or anyone had any knowledge on thsi part. I used the allen key so that the metal lobe attached to the internal spring mechanism was behind the metal lobe attached to the tensioner casing and both in the 12 o'clock position.

    These last few sentences don't make much sense as its hard to explain but i htink anyone who has done this will know what i mean?

    The serpentien belt cover had been put on incorrectly hte last time someone had been doing my cam belt. The spacers which are placed over screw threads to push the cover away from the pulleys and belts had been placed the wrong way round so they had allowed the cover to move in and out and it had badly worn against the belts adn pulleys - i'll prob change this next time.

    The bushes in the part that Kris talked about earlier were fine on my car but what a piece of over-engineered design!

    One other thing while i remember - the water pump bolts. All easily accessible except one due to the cover around the injection pump pulley. I ended up using a hole saw to cut part of the cover so that i could get to hte bolt. a bit of a bodged job i know but i couldn't get to the bolt with a spanner or socket and to take the cover off would mean removing some of the air inlet pipes and disturbing gaskets.

    The a4 bumper is easy to take off once you know how. You have to carefully pull the bumper out sideways from the wing by easing the push fit bracket which holds it in place (do this both sides - it should click out). Then pull off the plastic grates either side of the large middle grate in the bumper below hte number plate this allows you to get access to 2 allen key socket bolts which are located vertically upwards. The bumper should pull straight out (you shoul have removed the lights and indicators before this).

    One last thing!
    Got the car together and after changing the 'bearing bracket' at the top of the drivers side front suspension, which also needed changing, decided to take the car for a test drive. The car ticked over fine but had no power and would only get up to 3000rpm! In my haste i'd forgotten to reconnect a wire near the suspension mounting on the inner wing which just shows that you have to be very careful and methodical when doing any jobs.

    Plugged wire in and problem solved now hopefully 75k miles of happy motoring ahead before the next change!
    #49
  10. Joni_s
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    Joni_s Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    BIG THANKS TO KRIS AND JASON FOR THEIR HELP.

    I HAVE LOTS OF PICS IF ANYONE NEEDS ANY IN FUTURE.
    #50
  11. Jason
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    Jason Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    Your Welcome buddy!!!

    I know what you mean about the injection pump tensioner it's well weird,almost as if it's knacked then after a bit of messing about for position and tightening it just seems to work and you can tension the belt!!!!!!

    Very brave not using the cam locking kit!!! Mind you can understand it getting in the way and being more hard work than anything else.I spent a couple of hours making one and was well glad of it.

    Good on yeh,Chuffed that you got it sorted!

    Happy motoring!

    Jason
    #51
  12. Joni_s
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    Joni_s Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    I reckon i must be qualified as an Audi Master technician by now(!).
    New cambalt fitted (working so far!)
    ABS ECU DIY repair
    All round disc/pad change
    CV joint replaced
    Control arms replaced
    Wheel bearing (pending)

    What more can there be?!!!!!!! (A LOT)

    Next steps:
    rear wheel alignment

    Possible next steps - but can i justify the cash?:
    get laptop/vag.com
    remap
    new suspension setup

    Jason/Kris think i must have been lucky with no stripped threads, screwing in to an aluminium block is just asking for trouble.
    #52
  13. kris_tdi
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    kris_tdi Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    i stripped 2 thread in all, doh. Yes that pump tensioner is wierd, took me a few minutes to line it all up. Thing that took me the longest though was working out how the serpentine belt was routed as the one i took off had come off and snapped. But after that it was as sound as a pound.
    I also had trouble with the plastic cover, i heard a ticking noise and though the timing must be out (which i knew deep down it wasnt as i had checked it before everything else went back) anyway the cover had been banging against the crank pulley, i need a new one also but repaired it for now, seems a spacer is missing from it. i had trouble with the waterpump top bolt too, but i wasn't in a good mood at the time so i got the screwdriver out and broke a piece off the casing big enough to get a socket in there, lol.
    Glad you got it all done. other thing i noticed, i had a lot of black oil **** on the drivers side of the engine, seems one of the injector return pipes was leaking so i gotta fix that also, think i used a whole can of gunk cleaning the engine off, looks all shiney now though (not that you can see it!!)
    #53
  14. Joni_s
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    Joni_s Member

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    [Nov 27, 2006]
    Yeh the spacer you are talking about looks like a top hat with a hole up through the middle. You slide it over a bolt with the bottom of the 'hat' sitting against the cover therefore stoping the cover from moving about and hitting the pulleys.
    #54
  15. mer
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    mer New Member

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    [Dec 26, 2006]
    Hi all,
    This is my first post so here goes our car is a:
    2.5V6 TDI Passat Estate 58,000 miles 2000 on a X plate.
    Car recently went in for 60,000 service + cambelt change, garage then proceeded to inform me that they did not have the correct equipment to do the cam belt (pullers or something) and the equipment costs £175.00 + Vat from GSK.
    Is this true? do you need special tools?
    Also, given the info above what bits do you recommend we should change whilst having cambelt done.


    Happy New year to you all

    Mer
    #55
  16. mer
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    mer New Member

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    [Dec 28, 2006]
    X Reg 2000 TDI V6 60000 MILES AND USE FOR TOWING

    Hi all,
    Read lots of posts on this subject, I just really need concrete advise on what to change?
    All belts,pulleys,tensioners and water pump or just some of the belts,pulleys,tensioners and water pump?
    One company has quoted £1425.00 all in
    VW stealer has quoted £507.00 but I don't think that's for the full monty,got the feeling I was talking to a none Tech person .

    I have a good garage that would do job but they don't have special tools to do the V6, any idea where they could be hired or purchased?

    ADVICE GREATFULLY RECEIVED
    Happy New Year

    MER
    #56
  17. kris_tdi
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    kris_tdi Member

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    [Dec 29, 2006]
    1. No special tools are needed, only thing you may not find in a regular tool kit is a 32mm spanner to undo the fan. Everything else i improvised with. Ie used tippex instead of a camlock tool etc...

    2. As it will be the first time it has been changed i would replace all 4 belts (cam, fuel pump, aircon and serpentine) water pump, its only 25-30 quid and you will kick yourself if it starts leaking and didnt change it. the cambelt tensioner needs to be reset, this involves taking it to bits and refilling with oil.
    Change the rest of the pulleys, check condition of the serpentine tensioner.

    3. you will also need some coolent as it is by far easier to remove the radiator.
    #57
  18. mer
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    mer New Member

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    [Dec 29, 2006]
    Thanks for that Kris-Tdi,
    #58
  19. Turkster
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    Turkster Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    [Dec 29, 2007]
    An interesting read, do i presume there is only 1 locking pin to use ? Same pin as the 1.9 TDI PD engines ?
    #59
  20. Jason
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    Jason Member

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    [Dec 29, 2007]
    From memory I think I used a correct size bolt to block the injection pump and welded up a bracket to hold both over head cam pulleys in situ.
    #60
  21. Big Bad Wolf
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    Big Bad Wolf New Member

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    [Mar 21, 2008]
    I'm changing the injection pump and cambelt on my v6 2.5 tdi Passat at the moment but i cannot seem to see any timing marks for TDC on the crankshaft pulley or a mark on the engine that would correspond to the pully mark.
    Anybody that has done theirs, i would appreciate any help that i can get, photo's diagrams - anything:crying:
    Does any body know the correct diameter drill bit to use to locate the injection pump TDC?
    Any help would be appreciated - i'm on a teabreak and doubt if i'll be going out to the car again today as it's beginning to blow a gale out there now and its bloody cold:cold::cold:
    Cheers
    Mo
    #61
  22. Jason
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    Jason Member

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    [Mar 21, 2008]
    Tipex & a box of different size bolts and drill bits.

    Sorry can't remember what size it is to lock the injection pump (maybe 9mm ish)

    I made a bracket to lock the over head cams.

    Good luck
    #62
  23. swarcup
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    swarcup Well-Known Member

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    [Jan 14, 2010]
    SORRY TO DRAG UP AN OLD THREAD BUT DO YOU HAVE TO RETIME THE INJECTION PUMP WITH VAGCOM WHEN ALL DONE?
    #63
  24. samiam
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    samiam New Member

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    [Jan 16, 2010]
    It appears I'm about to remove my injection pump. My belts etc are less than half way through their lifespan so I figure to leave them be.
    So before I pull out the socket set... any advice on injection pump only transplant?
    #64

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