15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

Ok Short update. I shall add pics later as lets face it a build thread without pics is boring :)

So new block is good and honed. It turns out the block is also modified to take a timing belt tension wheel in a different position so I need to drill and tap that 8mm hole for that.
The golf head I bought for £50 pressure tested ok and has been seat cut and my race valves fitted. Its also been skimmed so also ready to go although it's not ported like my last head was.

I started to assemble the engine bank holiday weekend and my wrist pins did'nt fit my rods! Can you imagine how ****** I was? Anyway yesterday I took my old rods and a pin back to Arrow and it seems Woosner made their pins out of tolerance and Arrow have seen this before. They are working on my new rods to get them to fit my pins today. My pistons had picked up a bit on the skirts so ive dremmeled them off and cleaned them up. Piston to bore clearance is 5 thou so a bit slacker but should be fine once warm.

The turbo, manifold and downpipe are back from camcoat and are now ceramic coated and we have seriously vented the bonnet now with a massive mesh intake over the turbo and two vents front of the bonnet either side. I have also dremmeled off the vanes on my water pump so I can install the Davies Craig water pump but retain the Audi one for the timing belt.

Buying a new bearing for the turbo today just in case metal went up that feed pipe. There was metal everywhere in the bottom end, the oil pump was jammed up with it and the oil filter housing was full of the stuff. None in the top end though so turbo might be ok. I spent two hours cleaning the plastic filter housing in my parts washer and with a magnet as I am paranoid about leaving a small piece of metal in there!

Anyway pics to follow.
 
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Good to hear you've had an enjoyable Bank Holiday!

What you're saying about the pins implies that not only were the pins out of tolerance,but also the original rods must have been also to some degree,either for them to fit,or to fit without being too loose.

Love to see the pics of the manifold etc now they've been coated.

Best of luck,and I do hope there aren't any more surprises hidden away.
 
Good to hear you've had an enjoyable Bank Holiday!

What you're saying about the pins implies that not only were the pins out of tolerance,but also the original rods must have been also to some degree,either for them to fit,or to fit without being too loose.

Love to see the pics of the manifold etc now they've been coated.

Best of luck,and I do hope there aren't any more surprises hidden away.

Yeah Aaron though the original rods had a smaller bush in them. He is checking that today.
 
Yeah Aaron though the original rods had a smaller bush in them. He is checking that today.

That's so difficult to live with,when everything is just not quite what you can easily replace.

Good luck as ever....still waiting on mine being diagnosed.
 
That's so difficult to live with,when everything is just not quite what you can easily replace.

Good luck as ever....still waiting on mine being diagnosed.

Rods are now fixed. Being sent back today. Turbo cant be identified from the numbers on it LOL. Not heard that before with this car! It's probabaly of an obscure Russian tractor or something!
 
Rods are now fixed. Being sent back today. Turbo cant be identified from the numbers on it LOL. Not heard that before with this car! It's probabaly of an obscure Russian tractor or something!

Going by the luck you've had so far,it may well be.

A place like Owen Developments would probably be able to work it out,but they would no doubt charge.
 
I am reliably informed that the rod bushes were ground incorrectly!

It gets better and better,doesn't it.

At least now with a virtually new engine,you have a solid base of known parts and replacements,rather than having to hunt around like you have so far,to find out which parts are OK,and which aren't.

That's the plus side I guess.
 
I have some niggles. The black plastic oil filter hosuing was FULL of metal. I have cleaned and cleaned it and used a magnet on it but it niggles me there might be just one small bit in there and its going on the new engine. So I cleaned it again lol and then again and then again after that.

If I remove the prop shaft as im not using the rear diff at the moment will that be ok? The front transfer box will just spin but I wont lose any power in driving a shaft yes?
 
So some more pictures for you.


A nice shot of the mess you make when you overheat an engine! Dont do it.

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The piston had hit the head as you can see


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And knackered the crank too


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And then bust the piston


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And the rod for good measure


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My new engine block BWA £195 quid non runner. A risk


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A vaneless water pump


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I dont think I will have a heat issue anymore


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A hopefully metal free oil filter housing


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My new crank fitted. This had the smaller oil pump chain wheel on it. So I pulled it off with my puller and tapped on the AXX bigger one.


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More to follow...
 
I have some niggles. The black plastic oil filter hosuing was FULL of metal. I have cleaned and cleaned it and used a magnet on it but it niggles me there might be just one small bit in there and its going on the new engine. So I cleaned it again lol and then again and then again after that.

If I remove the prop shaft as im not using the rear diff at the moment will that be ok? The front transfer box will just spin but I wont lose any power in driving a shaft yes?

That should be OK,and will lose you far less than taking out the Haldex fuse for instance(which isn't a good idea in any place,for any length of time).

The engine was well knackered wasn't it.....the new one seems to be going together nicely though.

Keep the pictures coming.
 
Bah cams are ****ed too and the lifters. Gave them a better inspection before fitting and noticed two lobes have gone to points and 2 lifters are scored. You can feel it but not quite see it. God I don't do things by half's do I. That's another grands worth of damage right there :sadlike: Flywheel is also missing some teeth oddly enough so I'm ordering a new A3 quattro one and race clutch kit.
 
Bah cams are ****ed too and the lifters. Gave them a better inspection before fitting and noticed two lobes have gone to points and 2 lifters are scored. You can feel it but not quite see it. God I don't do things by half's do I. That's another grands worth of damage right there :sadlike: Flywheel is also missing some teeth oddly enough so I'm ordering a new A3 quattro one and race clutch kit.

Like you said.....not done by halves!

Good luck as always......it's a real pain when it takes so much time and effort.
 
Like you said.....not done by halves!

Good luck as always......it's a real pain when it takes so much time and effort.

It is but I enjoy it. Making mistakes and learning from them etc. You won't last in Motorsport if you can't take the blow ups and crash repairs as that is a large part of the sport!
 
It is but I enjoy it. Making mistakes and learning from them etc. You won't last in Motorsport if you can't take the blow ups and crash repairs as that is a large part of the sport!

That's true.

Mine is nowhere near motorsport,but I've really enjoyed pushing it (not literally!) this far,and doing something that Audi never intended.

I've learnt a lot in the last week about how many sensors the car can run without!
 
That's true.

Mine is nowhere near motorsport,but I've really enjoyed pushing it (not literally!) this far,and doing something that Audi never intended.

I've learnt a lot in the last week about how many sensors the car can run without!

Mine has

Lambda
Oil temp
Oil pressure
Water temp
Crank position

That's it LOL
 
Mine has

Lambda
Oil temp
Oil pressure
Water temp
Crank position

That's it LOL

I now know that mine has been running with a knackered MAF,stuck thermostat,and wonky readings from the MAP sensor.....all adding up to a 20% overfuelling problem.
 
Some more pics for you


Pistons all cleaned up and fitted to the Arrow rods. The numbers are piston to bore clearance in thou. A bit larger than they should be because I had to clean up the skirts but not large enough to worry about. Might get a small amount of slap when very cold at startup but it will soon go away once warm.


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This little gadget is an ARP stretch gauge. Don't fit your rods without one. My rods were up to 16Nm out to the loose side before I reached optimum stretch.

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More to follow...
 
Small update. The lifters have finally arrived as has my new flywheel from BDM so I can now get the engine fully back together and into the car. Pics to follow.
 
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Small update. The lifters have finally arrived as has my new flywheel from BDM so I can now get the engine fully back together and into the car. Pics to follow.

Good to hear it's progressing.

Some things just take so long to come together,and I'm personally so pleased to have mine back,that I know how you must be feeling.
 
Hi Guys

Somehow I forgot this thread :( Been too long guys.

Like?

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I like a lot...
More info please...
 
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Engine spec and power? Looks mean..
 
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Update coming tonight. Got another big build on for this car as we are not happy with the current engine. Got some vids too. Ill post up the full spec later. Next year I'm gonna run in a couple of VAG trophy rounds and also Team Trophy
 
Update coming tonight. Got another big build on for this car as we are not happy with the current engine. Got some vids too. Ill post up the full spec later. Next year I'm gonna run in a couple of VAG trophy rounds and also Team Trophy

Good to see you again,and glad the car build has gone well.

What's next for the engine?
 
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Good to see you again,and glad the car build has gone well.

What's next for the engine?

Hiya Alex, long time.

Ok current build is as follows

CAR:

Audi A3 8P 2 door Chassis
Quattro
Manual control of haldex (I will show pictures of this solution) Took a lot to develop!!
Ally rear subframe
Ally front subframe
Subframe bushes for centralisation
AST Sportline shox all round
Adjustable top mounts
Adjustable bottom mounts
H & R roll bars front and rear
Adjustable roll bar mounts front
Brembo 365mm discs front
AP water cooled 6 pots front
Standard discs and calipers rear
Fully poly bushed
Mintex pads all round
Audi TT hydraulic steering rack
Full cage with rear seat position
18 inch pro sport wheels
Dunlop Direzza tires 245/40/18
Aftermarket (German) front spoiler
Autotel Digital radio system


Engine:
BWA Block
Overbored to 83mm
JE custom bore matched pistons
Arrow Rods
Race bearings
Race 06a 90psi Oil pump
Standard crank
Davies Craig electric water pump
ARP bolts throughout


HEAD:
1992 Golf GTI 16 valve KR head
Ported and flowed
Lighteweight valves with double race springs
Custom cat cam 297 cams
Solid race lifters with lash caps
Custom tubular manifold
Custom inlet manifold
Turbo technics 50mm external wastegate
AET built custom Garret 2860 T3 flange A.R48 turbo with needle rollers
Ally fuel rail
Sytec fuel reg
Bosch HP fuel pump
Bosch LP fuel pump to swirl pot

GEARBOX:
02Q 6 speed manaul
Fully reconditioned all new bearings/shims etc
Wavetrac diff fitted
Standard transfer box but reconditioned

BAY:
Spec R beam and core intercooler
Spec R rad
Spec R catch tank system
Twin Kenlowe fans
MOTEC M400 ECU
AIM dash with GPS


The thing is this engine has proved to be very temperamental and so I'm changing it over winter to an S3 CDL code (265hp) and because that will be TFSi I'm going standard ECU as the MOTEC (my version) can't handle direct to head injection. I need the engine to give me about 310 for what I want to do (Team Trophy and VAG trophy) at fly so it will need a small amount of tune and of course some billet additions :)

Any and all suggestions as to parts are very welcome :)


Cheers
Mark.
 
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Hiya Alex, long time.

Ok current build is as follows

CAR:

Audi A3 8P 2 door Chassis
Quattro
Manual control of haldex (I will show pictures of this solution) Took a lot to develop!!
Ally rear subframe
Ally front subframe
Subframe bushes for centralisation
AST Sportline shox all round
Adjustable top mounts
Adjustable bottom mounts
H & R roll bars front and rear
Adjustable roll bar mounts front
Brembo 365mm discs front
AP water cooled 6 pots front
Standard discs and calipers rear
Fully poly bushed
Mintex pads all round
Audi TT hydraulic steering rack
Full cage with rear seat position
18 inch pro sport wheels
Dunlop Direzza tires 245/40/18
Aftermarket (German) front spoiler
Autotel Digital radio system


Engine:
BWA Block
Overbored to 83mm
JE custom bore matched pistons
Arrow Rods
Race bearings
Race 06a 90psi Oil pump
Standard crank
Davies Craig electric water pump
ARP bolts throughout


HEAD:
1992 Golf GTI 16 valve KR head
Ported and flowed
Lighteweight valves with double race springs
Custom cat cam 297 cams
Solid race lifters with lash caps
Custom tubular manifold
Custom inlet manifold
Turbo technics 50mm external wastegate
AET built custom Garret 2860 T3 flange A.R48 turbo with needle rollers
Ally fuel rail
Sytec fuel reg
Bosch HP fuel pump
Bosch LP fuel pump to swirl pot

GEARBOX:
02Q 6 speed manaul
Fully reconditioned all new bearings/shims etc
Wavetrac diff fitted
Standard transfer box but reconditioned

BAY:
Spec R beam and core intercooler
Spec R rad
Spec R catch tank system
Twin Kenlowe fans
MOTEC M400 ECU
AIM dash with GPS


The thing is this engine has proved to be very temperamental and so I'm changing it over winter to an S3 CDL code (265hp) and because that will be TFSi I'm going standard ECU as the MOTEC (my version) can't handle direct to head injection. I need the engine to give me about 310 for what I want to do (Team Trophy and VAG trophy) at fly so it will need a small amount of tune and of course some billet additions :)

Any and all suggestions as to parts are very welcome :)


Cheers
Mark.


Hi Mark,

Long time indeed,but I can see you've been busy!

I was hoping you'd be back with an update and some more ideas,and I', sure a move to the S3 TFSi will give you scope for a lot more.

The ECU has a lot to offer,and for custom work,I'd give Rick at Unicorn a call.

For parts,and especially billet bits and pieces,plus a selection of rods,pistons,valves etc,it's worth looking to Integrated Engineering where I've been for a pile of bits recently,and found their service and enthusiasm is superb.

Cassidy is the guy to speak to there.
 
Ok engine is out now and being prepped for sale with 3 different size turbos LOL

BDM are helping me with the new build as im now going 2.0 tfsi route. Going to change my dash to AIM's new 7 inch bad boy :)

Upload 2014 11 9 1 8 0


It's called the MXG and is very sweet :) I am also looking at MOTEC but they are mega money and a smaller screen too. Here is the C125. Both are also loggers.

Upload 2014 11 9 1 12 14
 
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AIM I think is the way to go.

AFAIK,Backdraft are using an AIM dash on their car,and apart from a clash with the immobiliser,which can be mapped out,they said it worked well.

I was looking at the earlier version before I got sidetracked with the cam cover etc,so the MXL Strada is back on my menu now as well.
 
I need the engine to give me about 310 for what I want to do (Team Trophy and VAG trophy) at fly
is that the power limit?
Is their a torque limit too?
You could carfully spec a large turbo and run high boost but with an inlet restrictor like a WRC car. That could give you around 300hp but an insane amount of torque if boosting to the moon
 
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is that the power limit?
Is their a torque limit too?
You could carfully spec a large turbo and run high boost but with an inlet restrictor like a WRC car. That could give you around 300hp but an insane amount of torque if boosting to the moon

That's exactly what I had on my Escort.

The equivalent of an old school T35 with ALS capable internals via 32mm restrictor and running 2.5bar boost.

Only 360bhp but huge torque and no lag.
 
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taken an hour an a bit to read this.. all i can say its awesome...
A dream of mine being lived by someone else :D

Atleast there is plenty of pictures,
Good luck with the races and keep us updated!
 
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is that the power limit?
Is their a torque limit too?
You could carfully spec a large turbo and run high boost but with an inlet restrictor like a WRC car. That could give you around 300hp but an insane amount of torque if boosting to the moon

Power to weight limit for Team Trophy is 200bhp/ton at wheels so for me that equates to around 270 at the wheels. But you MUST run a stock turbo and a stock production engine. This is why I am changing my bay out as my engine is defo non stock and nor is my turbo :). So I'm going now

2.0tfsi engine BWA block
Standard K04 but uprated by AET for motorsport use so better internals and blades I think
Forge BOV
Carbonio Intake
Total refreshed engine
Rods
Pistons
Bearings (Race Calico ones)
Oil pump
ARP bolt kit top and bottom
All the IE bling billet parts I can find to serve no other purpose than to satisfy the child in me
Supa pro alloy arms with lift kit
VT mounts and dog bone (My solid mounts are a little to vibration inducing )
Custom 3 inch exhaust
Pro Alloy intercooler
Standard rad pack
Standard rad
Mishimoto catch can
6 Sigma gear shift kit from BDM
Standard ECU but mapped by Unicorn (Already spoken to them)
Downpipe although not chosen one yet
Spec mini clutch with Ally fly from BDM (looks sweet and light)
Either a lightweight pulley or a damped Fluid one
I might change my hydraulic rack back to electric too


I am also changing my wheels to something a little sexier. Any ideas? need to be 9J and take a 245 Tyre.

My engine is well out now and in the process of being sold as are a lot of other parts. I can't wait to get the new engine so I can strip it and start the rebuild :) I must get this all done by Jan as I need to do some testing and make some vids as Ive got 3 go pro whites itching to record!!

Cheers
Mark.
 
Why the Carbonio intake - those in the 'know' bang on about ITG, Revo, AMD et al? I'm obviously biased of course ...
 
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Why the Carbonio intake - those in the 'know' bang on about ITG, Revo, AMD et al? I'm obviously biased of course ...

Like the look of it :) Seriously the **** surrounding performance air filters and cold air induction is just that, ****. Designed to sell shiny expensive parts. I like the Carbonio because

A. It looks nice
B. It takes the feed from the front and not the bay (so cold air)
C. It's shielded

Performance filters and cold air kits gained their prowess in the days when remapping was not really available. So when you were told, "Son bolt this on and you will get an extra 40hp" you sort of droolled! and of course bought it. Now however you can map to your hearts content so it's largely irrelevant. what you really need is a good filter so you're not drawing grit and **** into your pistons and one that is flowing enough air so you can map and reach the power figures you want. You also want it to have a cold air feed and not draw hot air from the bay and that's it. You're intercooler takes care of the rest and of course you can heat wrap your pipework which is what I do too and have a vented bonnet like mine so bay temps don't get too high.
 
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