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Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by 15Degrees, Jan 18, 2013.
I'm in love
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How much is the quaife and who is best for fitting?
I hope with the car and not me ROFL.
I am SO EAGER to get this beast out on track and start putting some vids up of my progress.
not unless you come with the car
The Quaife is about £660 plus VAT and fitting on top.
Any decent VAG tuner should be able to fit one,so your local guys would be OK for the job.
I remember you asking about gear kits.....this may also be of use......
Do you know where I can source standard or non standard S2 camshafts please?
Looks great dude... however... the proximity of fuel lines to hot stuff in this pic would have me worried...
Experience suggests that a heat shield (even though the DP is wrapped) would be of benefit as there will still be radiant heat coming off this and braided hoses are more to prevent chafing than resist heat... rubber will deteriorate fairly quickly given this is a race car and will be full on for sustained periods of time...
Have had the odd issue with Bills race car on occasion (and a few customer BT conversions) which has made me a keen advocate of heatshielding the **** out of stuff for reliability (and in the case of flammable liquid) safety
Apart from EuroCarParts and similar,I'm afraid I don't,but I also don't know of anyone running non-stock cams currently.
Sorry if that's not much help,but even at very high power,it hasn't seemed to be an issue.
Yes I agree and thought of wrapping each line with heat tape (I have) and then putting sleeve over them each (need to order). I do have some heat shield material and could make and shape a shield that is held onto the downpipe with jubilee clips.
I think the cams are standard cast re profiled. But I don't know that for sure. What I do know is that the exhaust side lip where the small timing wheel butts up is busted and I was gonna run this as is as the car has been like that for 18 months but it worrys me. Kent have said if I send them the cam and it's standard which being cast is likley they can re profile a new one to match it.
The alloy heatshield stuff (single layer should be ok but double layer is better) would work... I would be looking at fixing it to the chassis or something rather than the DP itself... whole point is to reflect the heat away from the stuff you are trying to protect, strapping it to the DP (even with an air gap) could just turn it into a radiator through radiant and conductive heat transfer...
Slotting it in between the DP and fuel pump area would eliminate conductive heat and the air gap either side would combat radiant heat... fixing the heatshield to the bulkhead and chassis somehow is what I would be looking to do...
Heat tape would be less effective in this case I feel and sleeving is more of an insulator but would still look to use a heat shield to reflect as much heat away first
Had a couple of cars come in with the stuff used to go behind household radiators (the foam backed stuff used to reflect heat for energy saving purposes!!)... get a bit of heat anywhere near it and it would catch fire! lol...
That may be the best option,as I'd feel very wary about racing an engine with any sort of cam problems.
Kent are excellent,and have always had a good reputation,and the ones I had on my Cosworths were fine.
If you aren't already using it,Zircoflex may be useful for those difficult to get at areas that need some heat shielding.....some are self adhesive,and all are very good at heat rejection around sensitive areas.
....the alloy stuff is still not the best when faced with direct heat though..
Badgerwagen - 2012 Race Season Castle Combe - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum
This sounds like its going to be an awesome car once finished!
Try speaking to Matt Saville at Cat Cams. He should be able to help you out
Is that Cat Cams UK contact number or one of the dealers?
Just called him and all sorted, sending the cam on Saturday
Sounds like excellent service...very quick!
How long will it take for reveal of complete car ? I cant wait lol, looks awesome
THAT is a damned good question. Just had a call from NMS that they now can't do the wiring, so it's been sat in the workshop for 5 weeks with hardly anything done! What a joke.
Car is coming back to me on Friday and I now need to find someone, anyone that can build me an interior loom. The exhaust cam is off to Belgium on Saturday morning and I have been told they can do a new one in 3 days. So my only issue and the only thing holding the car compeltion up is the interior loom.
NHN the retrofit king maybe? Seems to do all sorts of stuff!
Best of luck with that,and what a disappointment to find they can't do this for you.
I think they owe you something for that,and at least should find someone who CAN do the work for you.
The service from your Belgian guys is typical of the "can do " attitude that signifies people who want the business and are able to supply.
I so agree buddy. I mean why not tell me that 4 weeks ago instead of fobbing me off with it's being done each time I ring! My friends and I have found over the past few years that a lot of motorsports companys only want to deal with you if you give them carte blanche and an open invoice so they can bend you over and **** you hard style. This is why I do as much of the work I can myself by the way. It's an awfull industry from a customers viewpoint.
Today I am ringing loom companies to see if I can get a slot anywhere.
Who is NHN?
Car is amazing, can't wait too see it all finished. (Nigel) username NHN, retro fits everything and a highly respected forum member.
I have a friend who used to build adaptation looms for Peugeot/Citroen track cars, is this the kind of person your looking for?
Also there's a guy called Sandy Brown on the 106 forum who makes fully custom looms for things like turbo and supercharger conversions so he may be able to do what your looking for.
I have no problems with someone saying they can't do something or can't supply parts etc but like yourself I really don't like bring strung along and then dumped.
I've been very fortunate with the companies I've used for this and previously on the Cosworths but I know there are some rogues around.
Can you point me in the right direction? Which forum link please?
Today I have emailed 12 loom makers, let's see what they come back with. I have 4 weeks till next race!!!
There are twelve people making aftermarket/custom looms. Well i'll be.
There are probably a few more but it's a start
Hope you find a good resolution soon.
One epic thread and build you've almost completed - you deserve the title in just the work done to date in such a short time !
Enjoyed every line of this build thread, even if I don't understand half of it
Ive got quotes arriving already around the 2 to 3k mark which I expected to be honest. Time is the issue because if I can get this done before June 8th I can race at BH if not it will be trac days until the big meet at BH on July 27th and 28th. Wiring loom guys always seem to be booked 2 months in advance!
Nothing is cheap in this world,especially when it comes to racing.
Best of luck in getting this together for June,and hope it goes well.
Glad to have helped you mate!
The car is down at Meridian Motorsport being wrapped (Carbon roof, Carbon roof scoop, Carbon bonnet, Carbon tailgate) In nice fabric vinyl. The cam is out and packaged up ready to go to cat cams in the morning and the car is off to TMME (Tim Mason) on Monday for a proper motorsport interior loom will I make June 8th Oerrrr.
Lot's to do.
Lots indeed,but now you have someone who knows what they're doing,and has at least a good chance of making it happen in time.
Very best of luck,and keep the updates rolling.
The car is coming back on Thursday
Tim has given me an adjustable Haldex. I have a dial fom 0 to 10 with 0 being no pressure on the clutch plates and 10 being max pressure max rear wheel drive. I also have an overdide button on the steering wheel so I can turn it off and go to FWD only.
I now need to fit the new cam and set (grind) the lash caps. I also need to give it a leakdown test as NMS said it was low on compression although I was told this is due to high valve overlap at cranking speed. I cant see how the bottom could be leaking as it's all new. The head could have a leaky valve as they were re cut. I will give it a leakdown test myself.
This. Is. Awesome.
Yeh we got the schematics for how the haldex works and stripped a busted one so we could see the pump, stepper motor for the valve and the temp sensor and went from there. In real life all the sensors are telling the haldex how much the main valve should be open or closed, the electric pump just provides the hydraulic pressure for the system.
Of course if you try and run it with max pressure on the clutch plates you will burn them out after a few corners as its not meant to work that way it's meant to be variable based on conditions and what the sensors are telling it. I can probably get away with say 50% on them and turn it off on the straights and have say ten for starts and then dial it down to 5 or 4. I have to play with it. I think he has also mapped it to a table in the MOTEC for temp so if the oil gets too hot it will also open the valve and release pressure off the plates.
This will in essence probably be quite similar in principle to the sort of setup that rallycrossers like Kenneth Hansen were using at one time,although he now uses a Sadev transmission as far as I can remember.
The Haldex he used was adjustable but mapped for the conditions being raced on,so it would be somewhat ahead of a manual system,but the idea is the same.
Great work.....this is very impressive.