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1.8T Sludge issues!! Can it be done without taking the engine out? Yes

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by Broken Byzan, Mar 12, 2010.

  1. allessence
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    allessence New Member

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    [Apr 4, 2010]
    just for reference the oil used is just as important as the filter.

    Sludge is a combination of burnt hydrocarbons mixed in the oil itself. What I'm saying is it's not just the filter. The oil needs to have enough additives to keep the particles in suspension and this allows for the filter to do it's job.

    Changing your oil more frequently will help even though using sythetics they say 6K is good. I try for 3k-4K and use Mobil 1. Seems to do one of the best jobs at keeping things clean.

    Hope this helps.
    #41
  2. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 4, 2010]
    Thanks, noted.

    We are finding the larger capactiy helps to prevent the oil overheating as easily therefore allowing it to continue working until chnage time at around 5 k ish is what we recomend currently, the marginal cost is more than covered by the extended lifespan of the engine
    #42
  3. olds_kool
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    olds_kool Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 4, 2010]
    ive always used larger filter only because thats what my local motor factors supplies when i give them engine code
    mahle OC470 its about a 1/3 bigger than audi one

    very nice car by the way
    #43
  4. Skiba
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    Skiba New Member

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    [Nov 2, 2011]
    Very informative thread and ive been re-reading it for few days now. Just wanted to say thanks to the people who contributed and to let them know this information is still serving a lot of people!

    Im about to drop the sump this weekend and clean it out. Can I ask, when you guys were down there, did you wish you replaced anything else that isnt too expensive to purchase? Any little pipes, mounts or sensors that are hard to get at, but there in the open once your at the sump?
    #44
  5. Skiba
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    Skiba New Member

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    [Nov 7, 2011]
    Just cleaned my sump and I would like to add my 2 pense to anyone considering this.

    Ended up putting car on axel stands,made it much easier getting to the bolts at the back
    2 hidden screws at the back, you need to turn the flywheel to get to them. You need to remove the belt tensioner to get the sump out, so get them bolts out first before you remove the tensioner. Engine turns over much easier if you remove the spark plugs. If you round these 2 bots while they are in position, you will probably have to strip your gearbox to get the sump out so be careful removing them.
    Remove the sensor at the bottom of the sump before applying any chemicals to clean the sump.
    We used a engine crane as well as a jack under, and loosened both front engine mounts to get at some of the bolts.

    Job took a total of two full days work with no lunch, but we were learning as we went.

    Big thanks to the whole community, without you guys research for this mamoth task would of been difficult.
    #45

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