1.8T running (just) smells rich

[BigBen]

Hi all.

Due to illness my car been laid up for 4 weeks so today charged the battery and also changed the intercooler hoses for silicone items along with the induction hose for silicone, the DV for forge recirculating item (dialed in about 10 clicks clockwise) a ram air enclosed induction filter and lastly a new N75- J version, also changed all of the small vacum hose that looked cracked etc.

When i started it produced smoke as in way to much fuel type smoke, struggled to run as like with too much fuel. There is no sign of boost leak anywhere, quite a smell of fuel around the induction area?

The car has superchip and reason for changing the above parts was the oe hoses looked weathered and damaged, sometimes the turbo has been almost on off so though either dv (oe was cracked) or n75c so changed them both.

Please help am i missing something stupid?

Ben

 

[BigBen]

I have just been out and disconnected the MAF and makes no difference- car will hardly start and splutters and dies when i take my foot off throttle?? With or without maf connected. Also put the old n75 back on and made no difference.

The new DV is a forge recirculator with blow off too- shouldn't make any odds though as it's fitted properly.....

 

[jcb]

if there is no change when ypu pull the maf it is fubar'd.
new maf or best case a damn good clean (electrical component solvent anf a zip lock bag, google maf clean)

 

[BigBen]

It's possible- anything is- but it was was running sweet as pie before i changed all the bits and the battery died- seems strange it would go fubar'd whilst sitting on the back seat for few weeks?? It wouldn't matter what angle it sits at would it- i is off to the left with the induction kit but surely that will make no odds?

 

[Geeman]

I had a similar issue (listen to me now, I'm the new MAF/electrical guru now! lol) with mine over a period of about 7 months.

I could, and have effectively been running my car without a MAF at all. Only when I checked the wiring did the problem show itself.

I replaced the wiring and connector on my MAF and it's fine now. But your symptoms lead towards a broken or damaged MAF. What year is your car?

 

[BigBen]

Hi, my car is R plate 1998. Initially it did run but wreaked of fuel, disconnected the maf restarted and it ran kind of . Stopped reconnected restarted and now won't really run at all, cranks away and tries to fire but reminds me of a old mk2 gti digi i had blown ecu, bores full of fuel so couldn't start. Could maf cause similar problem?

tried to connect vag com but for some reason it won't talk to the audi although fin e of mk3 golf tdi and dads bora tdi ??wtf

 

[B5NUT]

If vag-com can talk to your golf & bora, then I would say you have an electrical problems somewhere, can you communicate with any module, instrument cluster, etc.

 

[BigBen]

Audi talks to vag tacho fine so sure OBD2 port is fine??

 

[B5NUT]

It should talk to vag-com, what version of vag-com do you have?

 

[BigBen]

Just the free version and a cable form Ebay- which as i said earlier works in a 2003 bora and 1996 mktdi golf. On the vw cars it uses comm4 no problem (it's a usb cable) but on the audi none of the comm ports offer me a connection?

Version 409.1 & tried 504.1
Probably worst description ever but i'm not to good with anything outside office or firefox lol.....

Back to the car are we saying MAF then? Are they worth cleaning

 

[BigBen]

Update for anybody who wants to be my hero? :icon_thumright: Got the car talking to vag com- windows 7 but fine with xp. Only code was for low voltage terminal 30 which presumably was from trying to crank it with low battery.

I have now charge the battery fully and it turns fine but no hint of starting, no fuel smell either? Took plugs out all look good? Tryed both with the maf connected and not connect which made no difference.

Whilst cranking the oil pressure light came on the dis but again didn't leave a code and plenty of pretty clean oil in the engine.

Really struggling here peeps- swear he who must not be named will kill me if she thinks i've been spannering again (just out hospital 4weeks ago after spine op)

I did yesterday open ecu box to pass vacuum hose through for loom but sealing it all up again as spec, all relays and fuses appear to be seated correctly.

I also made sure the ignition amp was properly grounded (think thats was it is _ was on airbox with electrical plug on either end

 

[aragorn]

Are you getting a spark?

Take a plug out, stick it in the end of the coil, and lean it against the rocker cover and wind the engine over.

You should be able to see nice blue sparks between the two.

Are the plugs wet with fuel at all?

Could be a faulty ignition module.

 

[Geeman]

Knackered fuel pump relay...?

 

[BigBen]

Hi thanks for response. What number is that relay please and best method to test it?

I stripped out everything i had done and put completely back to stock and still same symptons- so have put it back as was with new hoses everywhere, new n75j and forge splitter- cheers for help sp far folks . This is by far the best forum i've ever used :icon_thumright:

 

[BigBen]

One stupid thing i had done was put the maf wrong way around which i have since remedied, yesterday when i ran rich could i have flooded the cylinders with fuel? The plugs were wet but i thought this was just from cranking over- what can i do to rule that out?

 

[aragorn]

If the plugs are soaked then you can either take them out and dry them off, or try starting with the accellerator floored (or both). If the cylinders are flooded you may need to crank it for a good 10-20seconds with the throttle on the floor to get it to start.

Wet plugs means the fuels getting thru, which means the ECU knows the engine is turning, the ECU also cant "see" the ignition driver, so if it fails you'll get no fault codes, which is why i suggested actually checking to see if your getting a spark.

 

[BigBen]

Hi thanks again for response, I do have a spark so maybe just full of fuel and battery running out of power before i can get it to fire??

 

[aragorn]

do you have a friend that can jump start you?

Before you do anything further, make sure the battery is fully charged. You'll only damage the battery running it right down.

I'd take the plugs out, dry them well. With the plugs still out, unplug the injectors, and crank the engine over on the starter with the plugs still out for 5-10 seconds, this will hopefully shift some of the fuel from the cylinders.

Refit the plugs and injectors. Then get vagcom up and clear any fault codes. Put it into measuring blocks and find one where you can see RPM, fuel injector pulse width and Air flow. Attach jump leads from your friends car and start his engine, get him to hold the revs at 2000rpm. Then attempt to start your car. First off just turn the key, dont touch any of the pedals, and watch the laptop. You should see RPMs airflow and fuel injection values climb. If it still doesnt fire or tries to catch but doesnt quite manage after 5 seconds or so then stick your foot flat to the floor and keep the key turned. Dont pulse the pedal or anything else, just keep it hard down. Air flow reading should increase and if its just flooded the engine should start.

Dont wind the engine over for much more than 15secs in one go, and if it doesnt start, leave it for a while for the starter to cool down again.

 

[BigBen]

I will try all of that on Thursday- looking after our wee girl tomorrow, at 1 year old she may be a bit young to help! Dim question (what another) where are the injectors about on that engine and how easily do they come out?

Do you think the MAF being back to front would have EF'ed things up in the first place? I feel i'm pinning my hope on that

Also the vag com bits i need to do will that work on shareware version ?

Seriously thanksk so much guys

 

[aragorn]

Ok heres a pic of an AEB:

If you look at the oil cap, then slightly to the right, you can see a shiney metal tube, thats the fuel rail. attached to the fuel rail are the injectors (you can just about see the first injector under the wiring plug that crosses the rail at the front) There are four, and they have the standard Bosch Junior Timer plugs on them, although each pair of plugs is connected together by a silly piece of plastic.

 

[BigBen]

Aargorn your a legend. Still curious do you believe that by connecting the MAF the wrong way round (arrow pointsing to filter as opposed to engine) that would have caused the problem. It did start first turn of key initally but was so rich it was stinking then it gradually spluttered out- exactly like if you pull the manual choke out on say my old mk1 golf

 

[aragorn]

I've no idea what would happen with airflow going thru the maf the wrong way, but i guess its a valid idea!

 

[BigBen]

Just to say huge thanks to all who offered advice to solve this after following aragorns advice I'm all good :icon_thumright: idle dips a bit then settles to 800rpm, need to adjust that forge splitter properly as not holding boost like it used to grrr- should be easy if knuckle scrapping fix

Top forum

 

[aragorn]

The idle dropping might be the tank vent valve. Thats what caused it on mine.

It would start, idle would drop to 500 or so then up to 1100 then bounce a few times before settling at a nice steady 800, also when approaching traffic lights and junctions with the clutch in, the rpms would drop really low, and stay there until we'd come to a compelte stop, where they'd come back up to 800.

Swapped the valve out and it fixed.

Personally the splitter should be placed in the bin. The engines dont like them at all, and its a bit barry.

 

[BigBen]

Yeah agreed about the splitter, seemed good idea at the time then yesterday it Pssh made me think boy racer or Colin Mcrae- one was awsome one is annoying I am neither and it's my avant wagon for dropping my baby at nursery- BIN (well the bay) ASAP OE DV yes please....

Sorry the tank vent where is that located- not around the induction area per chance

 

[Geeman]

This happened to mine too.

Replaced the N80 valve... no difference.

Chased the wiring up to the ECU and found a break in it. Soldered it back together... problem solved!

 

[aragorn]

Yours was quite royally fubarred though Geeman

And the ECU on yours was flagging a code for the MAF and N80.

I had no codes at all.