1.6 95 A4 Speaker wiring diagram

[Audijarvis]

Won a JVC head and disc changer on fleabay and would like to know the colours of the wires for front and rear speakers

The front speakers work ok but I have no sound from the rear speakers (I know an amp would be the best option but no funds at present)

Anybody have a diagram, link or just the colours to help me out please

Thanks

Jarvis

 

[AndyMac]

The rears run off a tiny amp bolte to the left rear deck speaker so there are no speaker wires at the HU for the rears, you need to run new cable. You can buy an adapter to link the rear RCA's to the tiny amp but really you should bypass it as the JVC will have far better quality and at least twice the power.

 

[Oranoco]

^ What he said. I had grief whe I used a converter block for the factory amp. Sounded crap and used to whistle slightly at low volume. Don't have any of the factory system left in the car now (although it can all be refitted)

 

[B5NUT]

Strange neither of my 1996 B5's have an AMP fitted for the rears, all speaker wiring goes direct to the HU. Wonder what option was specified to get the rear AMP?

 

[aragorn]

B5: were they avants?

I think the amped rears are only on saloons, ours certainly jsut goes directly to the head unit.

 

[Audijarvis]

Thanks for the replies

Think I'm going to fit the HU and changer at the weekend with the wiring as it is (fronts only) and concerntate on saving for my amp and some decent speakers

 

[B5NUT]

B5: were they avants?

I think the amped rears are only on saloons, ours certainly jsut goes directly to the head unit.

No they are both saloons, and both Manufactured in 1996.

 

[Audijarvis]

Problems solved,all speakers working and head unit and changer do exactly what it says's on the tin

Firstly the rear speakers don't have amps, well not on the 95 1.6 b5 saloon

The reason I couldn't get them to work was that I had brought the wrong ISO connectors, the PC9-401 is for later models. with the rear speakers amplified

I went to an audio specialists in Leicester and one of the technicians took one look and pointed me in the right direction

Took a permanent live from the hazard switch and stuck with the other switched live from the rear screen heater switch and Bobs your uncle

I'll post the new ISO's part number tomorrow

Thanks again everyone

 

[aragorn]

Mate those power feeds are pikey as hell...

The stereo loom already has a permenant live, and the switched live should come from a suitably fused feed.

 

[Audijarvis]

Mate those power feeds are pikey as hell...

The stereo loom already has a permenant live, and the switched live should come from a suitably fused feed.

The stereo looms live wasn't (probably why the previous owner hacked into the rear screens switched live)

Both lives have an amp rating of at least 10amps (the HU has a 10 amp fuse, so that should be protected) so should be safe for the current the HU draws

Neither the hazards or the rear screen heater need to be on constant so the circuit shouldn't be over loaded, and the friend that fitted it is a time served and qualified electrician so I'll trust him to not set my car on fire

 

[aragorn]

Its more that the wiring from your splice to the stereo is fused at 30A (in the case of the heated screen) and wont be rated to anything near that. Fuses arent there to protect the stuff at the end of them, they're there to protect the wires.

If your mate is a (good) time served spark, then he'd never consider taking an unfused spur from a domestic ring main in 1.0mm^2 cable.... yet thats no different to what you've described he's done here.

Doesnt neccesarily mean its going to blow up, but its still pikey.