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00550 - Start of Injection Regulation

Discussion in 'A6/S6/Allroad forum (C5 Chassis)' started by myth, Nov 3, 2013.

  1. myth
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    myth Member

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    I have a problem (actually, if you read the forum, I have quite a few :| ) with the engine - or the injection pump.

    I have had the 00550 - Start of Injection Regulation; Control Difference - Intermittent fault code for over a year now but I didn't paid attention since the car performed very well (in the last year I can remember a maximum 10 times when the engine would only start after a long cranking, but that did not happen for at least 6 months now - the cause of that is still unknown).

    Now it's starting to bother me because when I start the engine when cold, it makes a big white/blue smoke until it warms up. Also, the engine won't rev over 2000 rpm when I just start the engine ( ~10 degrees celsius), BUT it can rev higher as the engine warms up and around 80 degrees, I can rev up to 3500-4000 with no problem.

    According to Ross Tech, the possible solution to this error are:
    1.Fuel Tank incorrectly filled with Petrol or Biodiesel
    2.Air/Water in Fuel System
    3.Injection Timing incorrect
    4.Electrical Fuel Pump faulty

    1. This can't be. One can't fill the tank incorrectly for over a year, right? :D

    2. Water -I have replaced the fuel filter twice in the last year (I made 20 000 km in the past year and I change it every 10 000 km) so this is kind of ruled out.
    Air - at idle, there are little bubbles of air but sometimes when I rev the engine while standing still, more bubbles comes from the filter) that is the only transparent hose I have before the injection pump. I tried changing the valve on top of the fuel but to no avail.

    Possible solution (for which I need opinions): should I replace the fuel filter with just 2 lines, in and out, and bypass that valve on top of the filter so the return line goes directly into the tank? My theory is that the fuel/valve is letting some air on the feeding line, despite changing both of them.

    3. I have hooked the VCDS and checked the timing. It's like a pixel over the green line enough to say at the bottom of the window: timing out of spec (too advanced). Just every few seconds, the timing gets below the line and then it says timing within spec.

    Possible solution (for which I need opinions): Can that fraction of the timing out of spec cause the error? But this does not explain the smoke at start up nor why it won't rev when cold. I also noticed that sometimes when I check the timing, the periods when it should be full retard to full advance, the engine doesn't change it's noise. It's exactly the same! Does this mean it's something faulty with the electrical part of the pump? When this occurs, the fault always comes on.
    On a side note, I remember a few months ago, when I checked the timing, it would not show the yellow lines at all, but I didn't gave any importance, again, because the engine was running beautiful.

    4. I have checked the pump in the tank but the pump is almost useless in my opinion (at least at my model).
    [​IMG]
    I have the model in which my fuel pump just moves the diesel from the tank a few centimetes away from the pump into a very small reservoir (which should be heated). The pump does not force diesel into the filter nor into the injection pump! That's why changing my fuel filter is a pain in the a**, compared to other 2.5tdis newer than mine in which the pump actually delivers fuel to the pump, thus priming the system is very easy!

    The car is a 1998 AFB engine with ~300500 km on board, with the cams replaced at 227000 km but I have no idea if the injection pump is replaced or not.

    Thank you for reading this extremely long post and hopefully, together, we can find a solution.
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
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  2. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    sounds like your injection pump is faulty
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  3. TYphoon GB
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    TYphoon GB Member

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    Pump. Explains your other issues. Diesel Bob suggested.
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  4. myth
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    myth Member

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    Could it be the ECU of the pump? A friend of mine has a pump sitting around and I could just swap the ECU.
    Or should I replace the entire unit? What is keeping me from swapping the entire unit is a noise that the pump makes when you turn it by hand. But on the other hand, his engine was running when he decided he would scrap the car...
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  5. adamss24
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    adamss24 Well-Known Member

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    Swapping the pump's control unit wont work as they are calibrated to the pump itself and most likely the pump is worn internally. What are the part numbers of the old pump and the new one ? Early pumps don't need codding to the car so it's just a matter of fitting, setting up the timing and bleeding...
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  6. myth
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    myth Member

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    On the old pump it's 049 7 351 0098. coincidentally, the year of the car is 1998.

    On the new pump it's 289 7 113 0721. I don't know the year of the donor car, but the engine code is same an mine, AFB. The only difference I noticed on the donor car is that the engine had a vacuum flap which closed when the engine was shut off, so it would stop smoother.

    I noticed on the "new" pump that on some bolts there is some blue paint. This means it was refurbished, right?
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  7. TYphoon GB
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    TYphoon GB Member

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    I a going guess that the ECU is fine. I recon the pump advance is worn or corroded. The immobiliser looks for the pump ECU so a non standard swap is unlikely to succeed. Not sure of your location but a diesel specialist could test your pump and ECU it's all Bosch hardware.
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  8. myth
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    myth Member

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    Your guess makes sense to me.

    So tomorrow I'm going to swap the pumps and see what's what. To resolve the immo problem, I need the login code of the engine ECU, right? I have VAG-commander and VAG-com,so I think it's enough to adapt.

    I live in Romania but I have a friend living in UK, so I'm going to send the pump to him, which would send the pump to Diesel Bob. I don't fancy buying a second hand pump(because I don't know what I'm buying), but if it works until I get this checked and given warranty, that' fine for me.
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  9. TYphoon GB
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    TYphoon GB Member

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  10. myth
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    myth Member

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    Indeed that helps. Thank you.

    I'm going to try another fuel filter and if the fault code and other symptoms are still there, I'm going to change the pump. I'll keep you guys updated.
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  11. adamss24
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    adamss24 Well-Known Member

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    Fit the pump mate, if it's from the same AFB engine then it should work. The part number i was on is the audi part number, i am interested in the last digit and the letter at the end...
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  12. myth
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    myth Member

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    On the "new" pump i have found this code 0470506002. I think you are looking for something like DX or D at the end, but I can't find that number on the pump. Also, this code looks like it's written afterwards with some mold, as the digits are not inline. I'm 100% sure it's not factory written. As I stated before, some blue paint is on some bolts which indicate it's refurbished.

    I know that the Audi part number includes the automatic or manual gearbox, and as far as I know,on 2.5tdis, you can't put an IP from automatic to a manual car.
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  13. adamss24
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    adamss24 Well-Known Member

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    You can put auto pump to manual, they are the same pumps, however the auto has a 3 plunger head as opposed to 2 plungers, some of us use this as upgrades !
    Looks like your friends pump was refurbed at some point...
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  14. myth
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    myth Member

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    @adamss24, as you mentioned on tdiclub, you were right about IP on AFB engines. It does NOT require coding.

    The code on the existing pump was 059 130 106 A and there were also 0470506002.

    Today I have installed the "new" pump and the 00550 fault code is now gone. I have to see how it's going to behave in the morning. Hopefully no more smoke and it should rev easily.

    Thanks for the info guys! I really appreciate.
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  15. adamss24
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    adamss24 Well-Known Member

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    Cu placere ! Ma bucur ca ai rezolvat problema prietene, de unde esti de loc ? O seara buna...
    Ovidiu
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  16. myth
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    myth Member

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    Today was a busy day. And what a day...

    Today I decided to take my pump apart. I can now say I have solved the "mystery" with these pumps. The problem is with the timing piston, and where a specialist was about to charge at least 80 pounds just to tell me it's defective, I can solve it for ... pennies. The following days I'm going to post a tutorial.
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  17. adamss24
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    adamss24 Well-Known Member

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    Told you so...timing piston galling...mechanically they are very, very robust, i had opened 200-300k pumps and they had no noticeable wear, still well within Bosch tolerances !
    #17
  18. myth
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    myth Member

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    I'm gonna buy you a beer :beerchug:

    This pump has 301k km on board and it was the original pump, unopened. Now I have to buy the timing piston. Hopefully someone can bring it to me. If not, I have to search abroad.
    #18

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