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Understandable, pal. You're evidently keen on getting the most out of it and investing in a car you're really enjoying, and could be enjoying even more. Perhaps make a weekend of the visit to Bobby? Stay in a local airbnb or hotel, and then when it's over, you'll be driving back in a different...

Now it's time to get yourself booked in with Bobby ;)

Check your ECU box for water ingress. Get a free battery test at a local halfords, as a battery getting low will throw all of these systems into a tantrum.

I'd be interested to know if the seal is doing its job sufficiently and not letting in weird gunk again. Maybe another unplug and check, as well as a general wiring health check from point A to B as best as you can. The next step is potentially a replacement one, as it may just simply be almost...

It sounds like the name, a chain rattling. On a high mileage engine it is normal to get some briefly on a cold startup, audibly lasting about a second at most. If you don't hear it now or barely get any, I don't imagine it'll be a problem any time soon. A good oil service is your friend. A part...

2-3k for an engine out isn't that bad of a quote if the chain and tensoners are done, as that's the last thing to worry about for another 120k+. A brief rattle on a cold startup is normal. Do you get any now? As for gearbox related things, i'm none the wiser. I can't remember if one of the...

Potential PCV blocked or failed. There shouldn't be any suction from the oil cap.

So, you changed the temperature sensors and the values didn't change, or new EGT sensors corrected the values and it still did nothing? Also, have you tried disconnecting the DPF pressure sensor and see what reading you get with it unplugged (of that particular sensor)?

Looks awesome and mean mate. Will you be changing the fog light covers to the same mesh type as the grill in the future?

Have you looked at the temperatures being registered in real time on VCDS's measuring blocks, such as oil temperature, coolant temperature, all the exhaust gas temperature sensors, as well as measured amount of soot in the DPF - the latter is that if it's blocked, it runs hotter, causes excess...

My A5 3.0TDI had hydro electric mounts and were a permanent engine code when read with VCDS, but undetectable by my OBD adaptor and software. It wouldn't cause limp mode or a throw an engine light. That was also open circuit. If it is your engine mounts putting it into limp mode, i'll be...

EGR cooler on the 3.0TDI engines is an absolute pig. It's in the V, but not in a friendly way. If one garage refuses to take your money, a leak test with another is your way to go. Ask them to run it around at operating temperature and *then* look.

Good on you mate. Glad you got it sorted out.

I mean, you're going to need to go check the fuse for those features individually - if they even have their own fuse. Could also be a relay.

It's good practice to manually clear stored fault codes, even if you have replaced the very thing the fault code references. This is a bit different, but i've done a battery swap on a VW Scirocco as the old one was dead, and yet it would not fire up, only crank. Turns out there was a fault code...

They seemed to simply copy/paste from their A5OC post. "Hi Guys. New member, looking for some info that I can't find online. Looking at buying a 2014 Audi A5 2.0 tdi quattro black edition sportback with start/stop. 175bhp. The car is an Automatic. My question is what type of gearbox does this...

Sounds like a boost leak. Had the same sound but much, much louder, which turned out to be one of the three bolts holding the DPF to the turbo had come off. Gone. Sounded like some mad scalextric car. If all three are present but the leak is indeed there, you'll see a black mark around the area...

How very bizarre. Plugged in or not i'd imagine something would be stored and then findable via an OBD reader. I had a failed swirl flap on my 3.0TDI A5, which is just a stronger 2.7TDI, and it would cause a limp mode only remedied by clearing fault codes, and sometimes it wouldn't store a code...

The rule of thumb is good service history, and if it has been a while since the previous service, it might as well be done post purchase. I've not personally read about any particular engine-code variations having worse timing chains than others. It's just one of those things to be mindful of...

The timing chains will be the most expensive service part and requires the engine out to do it - £8,000 or more. You can more often hear the timing chain rattle on higher mileage 100k+ engines, but if it's only heard briefly upon the engine firing, then it's likely just fine. If the rattle...