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Probably because it's a right PITA! If you mean N/S by left then it's probably just the three o-rings (few quid only) that need replacing where the transfer box meets the gearbox but if it's the other side then it's a proper oil seal which is same part number as the rear one (£40 +VAT). Not...

Yeah good choice mate, if it's not too bad you might as well live with it. I'm just hoping all the 'nasty jobs' at the back of the engine are over for a while!

Removing the transfer box isn't too difficult but it's easier if you remove the front subframe for clearance. Then it's just a case of removing O/S driveshaft, exhaust, exhaust headshield, disconnecting prop, draining gearbox/transfer box oil & unbolting transfer box from the gearbox/engine...

Well after a lot of p*$$ing about & no help from anyone on here (again) I've decided to swap the transfer box for another one that I've found cheap. Considering part of the bearing race comes out with the output flange and the oil seal won't go over this, the realistic options for changing...

ElsaWin reckons special tools req'd :(

If you're only getting the noise on a tight corner in a certain direction & not travelling over bumps on the straight I'd maybe look at a front driveshaft as being the culprit?? Try driving slowly on full lock in both directions to see if it does it then :)

Hi, just done a gearbox/transfer box swap due to the old one having developed a whine and the new transfer box has started chucking oil out of the rear oil seal where the prop meets the output flange. I know I should really have replaced all the seals I could on the gearbox & transfer box while...

S3_Olly - Have you got a pic of the oil hose you used fitted? I've been thinking about getting some fluoro-whatever coated silicone hose to do the job for a while but is generally quite expensive. Squirrel.O.D. - That stuff you linked to looks decent and a bend radius of 70mm seems pretty good...

This was my catch can thread, by the way......... http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/164175-minor-mods-%3D-rubbish-idle.html

A lot of people (incl. me) go for the Saikou Michi catch cans from the US as they're actually pretty reasonably priced and are a decent quality bit of kit. These come with 19mm outlets if you get the Stage 3 can & cost about £90 incl. shipping from US. There probably are others that use a 19mm...

Did mine recently, lopped out the cracked wiring as far back as needed and just spliced the new coil connectors/earth in via soldered and heatshrunk joints. Just did one wire at a time to make sure everything went back in the same place and jobs-a-good'un. I used the loom from Awesome GTi (ECS...

Personally, I'd start by getting it fault code read or scanned on VCDS even better, to see if it chucks out any codes so you have a place to start. Otherwise would probably start looking at the coolant temp sensor as that controls air/fuel ratio on cold start until management goes into closed...

Yeah I got the other 3 cleaned and got new seals installed. Fitted new injector seats a while back too but used some dodgy sealant on them and they started leaking a bit so took them out again and sealed them with mucho threadlock this time and hopefully they'll stay leak free this time! Also...

After a couple of weeks of pratting about and a new MAF sensor I've found the cause of the problem..........1x dead injector causing a lean misfire and making the engine vibrate on it's mounts. My fuel economy had been getting pretty bad recently so think that must have been the culprit. Good...

I haven't driven since this has been happening as it sounds so bad I don't want to do any damage but it happens constantly at idle. I've now replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, throttle butterfly & IAT sensor and sprayed WD40 around the injector seats & seals but nothing has changed...

Yeah I'll have to buy some carb cleaner and start squirting it about the place to try and locate it. One thing is though that when I unplugged the MAF it made no difference, is that right?

Suppose that would be the idea thing if there was someone nearby who could check it out with VCDS....

To be honest I haven't driven it as the idle sounded pretty dodgy and didn't want to do any damage if it's running lean. I did try it with the MAF unplugged and it didn't make any difference. I did have a go at cleaning the MAF before I put it all back together. I also changed took the inlet...

Put a post up the other week about having idle problems following fitting a Badger 5 TIP and a few other bits. Once it was all back together it was giving me a rough low idle probably from an air leak and after hunting about I found three cracked plastic hoses and a hole in the rubber junction...

Thought I might have a crack at making a set of these as the asking price for branded ones does seem high. I can TIG weld anyway plus I know a guy who could machine me the threaded parts and I already have the poly bushes for standard arms (not fitted) which could be used. Thought I'd just use...