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How does the ride on the apex springs compare to the eibach's ? A previous car I had on apex was horrible, overly hard and crashy when hitting bumps, I need to change springs on my S3 due to a broken coil (again!). :faint:

I used to run a mega low polo a few years ago, and also run into the usual sump smashing problem. I bought some spacers that fitted under the engine mountings that lifted the engine approx 25mm which sorted the problem. I think I had them off ebay, not a bad job to do as I remember.

They are a great car, near enough identical to the s3 underneath apart form the 6 cyl lump, also those lovely konig seats.... and if you get bored of it, you could always bolt a turbo onto the back and have the best of both worlds, a mate of mine has not long had his back from being re-worked...

I would be interested, just need to move my mtm's first though, Pro race 1.2 Silver or anthracite 18x 8j or 8.5j 5x100 ET 20 Centre bore 57.1

I'm currently running mintex 1144 sport pads and 312mm discs on the front and mintex oe rear pads and discs, I've also switched to braided brake lines and dot 5.1 fluid which improved the pedal feel massively and perform really well even when pushed. I chose the mintex pads over ferrodo purely...

Take a wander down your local classic car show, then the local car cruise, and have a good look at the cars there, all owners will have spent far more time and money on their cars than they will ever admit to, and have all done it for the same reason, and have all reached a point where they have...

3000rpm launches in a 4wd car will kill clutches in no time at all, something has to give.

I thought the haldex works like a hydraulic wet clutch/ brake setup, found on many bikes and plant, and the ayc system on evo's, so min oil pressure to the clutch plates would be disengaged (no lockup) max oil pressure to the clutch plates would be locked (50/50 power split) so when the pin...

Want ! :hubbahubba:

+1 for the drill hole and self tapper fix, done a few of them in the past, just a light smear of sealant on the screw before the final fit and it will be all ok, also, don't drill too close to the o ring seal.

Did the problem start after fitting the TIP ? if so, just re-trace the installation, something is either split/ kinked or simply just not fitting correctly, its a frustrating problem, but it sounds like an air leak, patience needed.....

If it's using a bit of oil, that could cause spotting/ residue on the back of the car, but crap on the back of the car could also be caused by the exhaust tailpipes being too far under the car, I had a similar problem on one of my previous cars, simply adjusting the exhaust so the tailpipes...

personally, I'd get in touch with the seller first and show them the pics of the crack and see if you can come to an amicable solution first, it may have been a genuine mistake,..

The red/green contrast would look pretty good methinks. Go on, do it... dare to be different :thumbsup:. ( also as you say, if it isn't what you thought, it can always be repainted, but pic's first please)

I've wanted those wheels on my car for soooooo long, but had to spend the cash on other things first, they look every bit as good as i imagined, and not a bad price either.

This is indeed true, the polo top mounts weren't up to the job, but in the end I changed to the supersport uprated top mount kit for the LCR. I ordered mine from maxxtune in Germany, I think they took about a week to arrive, the only problem was that the supplied chrome plates were a poor fit...

Fitted loads to different cars in the past, the best I think would be boost, AFR and oil pressure, but whichever ones you go for, get ones that have alarm or a warning buzzer that annoy the hell out of you on start up, but save your engine when it matters, as you never look at the gauges when...

It looks as if the resistor has gone for a swim in a couple of inches of water :Flush: ,best check to see if the pollen filter and assorted flaps and trims are all present and intact.

Winter wheels on my car, not to everyones taste, but I like them.

I think I would order a set of locking rings and just cut the old ones off and thoroughly clean the threads with a wire wheel, once the corrosion gets into the threads, they are nearly impossible to move, unless you are really lucky. also, loads of grease/ Vaseline on re-assembly to try and keep...