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Yes bowman has said his engine is a 1.8t b6 a4. Ive just rechecked my autodata and elsa and you do need to set up the tensioner on these, I don't know what you guys make it sound like im wrong as ive always done it this way, I know what you guys are on about regards the tensioner, the only time...

Glad you have found the prob, have not seen this cable prob on these b4, will have to look out for it, thanks for the update

The tensioner on these doesn't work like that, its not like some japanese engines where you just pull the pin out and it will adjust accordingly , You need to set the tensioner up and measure the gap between the tensioner and the damper body, Ive done loads of these belts and this is how ive...

2nd the awkward undertray esp when doing them on jacks and axle stands

If the belt was slack, you could get running problems if it was moving the timing out of where it should be, the timing may jump, rattling noises from the cambelt area , poor idle etc....., Its possible the tensioner/ damper was worn out / leaking maybe or i more suspect set up incorrectly. It...

It looks so much better with this switch fitted, ive done this too.

Ive changed a few alternators on these engines with battery light coming on sometimes. Have you tried checking alternator voltage with loads on and some throttle to check its stable? A scan would be useful if you could some how get it done.

Ive known people take their car back to the dealer complaining about this rusting problem and the dealer replaced the discs under warranty. This was at a vw dealership where i worked. 3 months is not good at all , i wouldn't be happy, no matter how much you drive it the rust won't go away on there.

Have a look at this link , I did a search with that fault code, maybe you could do some of the checks they have done : Audi A4 AVF 1.9TDI PD Rough Idle and 17675 - VW TDI forum and Audi TDI forum - myturbodiesel.com Sounds like a fueling fault you have , would explain the bad starting and rough...

Could be the heat affecting the pod internals?, have you managed to scan the instrument cluster? might be worth doing first

This annoying thud you get at the end of the wiper sweep, do you mean when the wipers are coming to a stop at the bottom of the screen? and are they just noisy in general when sweeping up and down? Ive always found genuine blades to be the best, Im just wondering if your linkage to the wiper...

Ive seen these codes on a 1.8t and it was the breather valve in the breather pipe system had failed. There was a lot of vacuum in the oil system esp when the dipstick tube was pulled out a bit. Please confirm the engine to us though;)

Watch out for the b7 2.0l tdi 140 oil pump/ balancer shaft issues if you do decide to get one, have a look at the b7 section, you should see it at the top.

No one is going to tell you if an injector will solve the problem, If only it was that simple! :ermm: your fault code is an area to start and requires some investigating : This might help 17675/P1267/004711 - Ross-Tech Wiki . Do you know exactly what work was done on the top end?

Are you using genuine blades?

I was always not happy with the mpg from my quattro 130 tdi, did about 43-44 mpg norrmal use, i personally wouldn't get a quattro if i was to get another a4, I also found it not that great in the snow which you would find strange , My old mk4 gt tdi golf was far better. If you do go for a 1.8t ...

Sounds like air in the fuel system, especially if you have just serviced it, I personally find turning the ignition on and off a couple of times is not enough, Once you get air in the system it can take a fair bit of cranking to get it going again, turning the ignition on and off a few more...

It shouldn't be using coolant, I would say you have a problem, providing the radiator and all the hoses have been checked for leaks, common area is the egr cooler like the guys have mentioned above, this is what was replaced first at the dealer i worked at, and if it still uses water would be...

If its a 130 hp im sure it will be a pd engine, can you confirm it is? , if so you won't be able to crack the injector pipes off as they dont have any, The old tdi's do and you can do this. Did you prime the filter b4 you started it? , if you get air in the lines can take a fair bit of cranking...

This does happen sometimes ive found, Fault codes can be present but no engine light. The map sensor will be reading boost pressure, so id imagine if would be pretty flat to drive