The code may be thrown because the knock sensor is picking up detonation/knocking which is actually caused by something else??
Maybe an air leak somewhere on the inlet side??
Those clicks sound like the starter solenoid trying to work but not enough to engage. Could be the solenoid, could also be the battery or associated wiring harnesses.
not too sure on the Fiesta/Fords but check to see if the battery terminals are tight. It may be that the diesel engine at lower speeds is causing the terminals to vibrate and shift, so if it's loose you get electrical current spiking all over, then at the higher engine speeds things smooth off...
Check all the inlet air hoses and clamps. If any of these are broken, split or loose, then you will get extra unmetered air entering the engine and messing up the mixture. Basically these are all air hoses and pipes between the air filter and the inlet manifold (include checking the manifold...
Check for a residue caused from the coolant. Coolant will form into a crystalline like substance... Just trace along all water jackets and piping, including the radiator/heater matrix. Even a very slight leak will leave tell tale signs like this. You could also have the cooling system pressure...
Could be a faulty/sticking idle control valve... when you put load on the engine under idle the valve will be required to work differently, hence smooth idle.
I had an issue on my last Audi where the throttle position sensor was faulty (turned out to be full of dust/mud which was shorting everything out) causing the computer to think the car was on idle so it would not allow me to rev the engine... only ever happened when the car got hot, presumably...
Did you remove the distributor cap for any reason while changing the belt and pump?
That rattling sound you heard could have been the rotor contacting the cap?
Also make sure the belt is tensioned properly.
Always check power steering pumps on all audi's... if you are considering an auto then make sure it is changing up and down fine. Otherwise get yourself a manual...
Very likely the water temp will be around the inlet manifold somewhere and the oil temp sender will be down near the oil pump on the front of the engine.
I suspect it is similar to the 2.3 5pot
I had a similar issue on my 100 (C4/A6 shape). It became quite lethal on the freeway/motorway when the car would simply cut the rev back to idle. What was happening was the TP sensor was full of dirt that had accumulated moisture, this was telling the engine that the car was actually at idle...
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