Thanks for the replies. Ideally i'd rather not have the hubs removed to save on labour.
Jim is your S3 a facelift model as I think the bushes were changed to a revised part?
I need to get my rear trailing arm bushes (the ones that are in the hub) changed but having nowhere to do it myself at the moment I think I'll take it to a garage to get sorted.
Can the bushes be changed without taking the hub off? One garage I spoke with quoted approx. 3 hours labour because...
Very very interesting stuff. So the insert will give a 70/30 split and when the haldex would usually engage there'll be a 50/50 split? If so I'm definitely interested in purchasing one when available!!
Is the reg SB51...? Saw the car was for sale and was going to look but didn't in the end. See it regularly in Brighton now. Hopefully not too tricky to sort out.
I was recently looking for shortened drop links as the FK ones on my car failed. Instead of waiting for some from FK from Germany which was going to take well over a week, I found that W639 Merc Vito drop links could be used instead. They're approximately 220mm with an M12 stud so worked...
Very helpful, thanks. I don't have the 1JF suspension but I was looking at getting the lower arms with P/N 1J0505323E - are you able to tell how they differ from 1J0505323L as I don't have ETKA.
Also from this image would it be the Haldex or rear diff oil that needs topping up?
Thanks for the replies. I'm pleased to hear it will just push back in - even with the pool of diff oil on the road. I will check if it's a rose join or a bush in the arm get it sorted.
Does anyone know if the top and bottom arms are the same part?
Many thanks
My rear tie arm recently snapped. When it snapped it must have pulled the shaft out of the rear diff because it leaked all its fluid over the road. Fortunately the car was stationary and didn't move with the empty rear diff.
If I am going to change the rear tie bar how tricky is it? Is it...
That isn't the cambelt tensioner - it's the serpentine / auxiliary belt tensioner. As already stated it is meant to move with the vibrations to keep the belt tight.
Personally I think you should wait and just get a 1.8t - the 1.8 isn't really much of a step up in performance if that's what you're after. If you want a tidier car with not much more go then go for it!
Semi-synth is fine.
Petrol filter is the cylinder under the car, yes.
Manual here, which has the pollen filter removal/replacement guide included.
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/110856-audi-a3-s3-workshop-manuals.html
The AVU 1.6 is 8v.
What's the point in doing an engine swap for 20hp? The 1.8 n/a isn't easy to tune nor is the 1.6. If you want more power just buy a 1.8t engine'd A3.
I wouldn't see the turbo as a consumable type item like a clutch or brake pads. I wouldn't say that TDI turbos are bound to fail at some point if they're cared for with regular oil changes and most importantly warming up and cooling down (though the majority probably don't bother)
My 1.9TDI is...
See:
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/104200-external-temp-dispay-dash.html
In future you will probably find your answer quicker by searching using Google.
site:audi-sport.net search terms here
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