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Is it just me or are we starting to get quite alot of things on the expensively "reliable" audis that we have to "live with"?

Ah - it was ross-tech I got it from about 2 years ago... that answers that one :) Hex can usb lead.

nope - just alot of manuevering... there the two screws on top and then there's one all the down the back inside the bumper almost inside the wing... need a very long extension bar on a 1/4 drive to get at it... Think there's one on the other side by the grill aperture too.

This sounds like a 1.8T engine with the oil sludge problem... the pump is probably still ok - thing is if the sump, rocker cover and several pipes weren't cleaned out properly first time it doesn't take long for the "bits" to break off and screw up the pickup tube again, or even get into your...

Some of these aerials rust on pretty good... cheap enough to replace if they are that bad. It's a screw with the rubber of the aerial moulded over the top of it. Mole grips with insulation tape wrapped round the jaws is a goodun (so it won't mark it) and put some vaseline on the screw before...

Always a tricky one this... If you have to get a garage to do it, it might be worth scrapping the vehicle as the above post I have seen many times. If you've got the kit and the know how for some DIY, then go for it. I would however for peace of mind go for the warrantied reconditioned engine...

I bought a "counterfeit" lead from ebay - it is the one with the buffering in it so it cost about 30 quid (not the cheapest) and it has worked fine with my a4 and a6 over the last few years. A demo copy of vag-com will come with it usually and it will allow you to see all the error codes and do...

Well if you change the intrument binnacle you're going to have problems with your keys/alarm cos if I remember rightly part of the system, particularly the coding, was built into the dash... I know with the older 80's and a4's the computer bit in the middle was an added piece which could be...

Now I remember why I have a garage full of tools and do it all myself... :)

Can highly recommend elsawin... so much info it comes on 2 dvds and a cd. Fleabay usually have dodgy copies floating around for sale :)

I've got an avant A6 1.8T. Loved it at first... still a nice drive but the "common" problems with it are coming thick and fast. Thinking of going back to my old P reg A4 avant - much better built. Sorry guys...

Bear in mind if the channel just below the lip of the windscreen is dirty (the one under the windscreen wiper trim), water will get in through the pollen filter housing and straight down into your blower motor. Just another avenue for leakage.... Any more out there?

Further to the job description in the link... The box that has to be moved is the ECU - NOT the fusebox. For easier access remove the relay nearest the bulkhead lest you snap it off... Also check the plugs going to the ecu when you reassemble as they can come loose and you'll have to take the...

Does look nice. I'm gonna be rude... how much? :)

I hate to sound like an old fart, but once you approach these kind of figures, don't you worry about cracking your relatively weak alloy head? Especially with a bigger turbo. Just my thought. Tony.

A6 avant? little beauty? Little?!?!?!? is a flippin bus is what it is. Nice bus though. Got one myself :)

Damn - you shoulda sprayed 'em one at a time till it stopped. There's alot of balljoints and bushes under there... Might be an idea to lift the wheel up by the wishbone underneath and try it then to see if it stops the noise - that would indicate screwed bushes...

No luck at all. Pulling the door card off is a no no as it has a lip that sits inside the door lip. So it looks like I will have to destroy the door card. Also I may have to really dig round elsawin to find out how to take the lock off with the door closed as I don't see any way to remove it...

Thanks for that Karl I'll give it a go today. And thanks for welcoming me. Looks like a good forum here. Tony.

Still nobody with any ideas?