Thanks guys for the replies, really useful insights!
The car itself in terms of bodywork/interior is ok, the driver side door seal is torn at the bottom. Engine start up was fine, there was a spanner symbol on the dash though (needs audi service reset?). The main thing I noticed on the test...
So I'm pretty sure I've finally spotted the one, it's a 2010 2.0TDI with 114,000 miles, I am going to view it tomorrow.
The dealer sent the history which shows that:
The clutch has been replaced twice
The gearbox has been taken off, sent off for repair and refitted for £1000!
The cambelt has...
Yeah mate, checked the VIN on Audis website, common rail. Plus I got the guy to send a pic of the engine bay, it has the iconic diagonal line engine cover.
I'm defo gonna start changing the oil regularly when I get one, that seems to have been the key to your long miles.
I'm hearing that even the CR engines still have the oil pump hex problem, how common is this and is it something to actually worry about if the car has been fully serviced etc?
It's the only thing thats bugging me with the high mileage cars now.
The 2011 2.0TDI 170PS is up for £5500, its got 100k on the clock and hasn't had the cam belt changed, gonna view it tomorrow, is it a good price and how much is the cam belt change, £400?
It's 2011 so CR which is better from what you guys have said, any engine codes to look out for or did they...
Some good pointers from the other posts, I'm making a list, really helpful! Ok so the BLS engine is better as long as you don't abuse the dpf, are there any other engine codes that I should look out for?
Thanks.
Thanks for the help!
Could you expand on how I can check the dual mass condition and also a faulty gearbox?
For the springs I'm guessing a visual check for cracks will be enough?
Last one how can I check the loom on the pillars? I've heard to check all the door electrics with them open and...
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