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hey guys, thx for the input. Actually i got back on power today, after filling up oil level. was close to minimum. could it be that the engine gets more 'knock' and therefore gives less boost and changes timing? had these problem before with opel/vauxhall cars, maybe a long shot, but i did +-...

i live in belgium, so 'close to me' won't be an option haha. fisher, let me know i you find something!

no immediate acces sadly. i'm close to guessing maf sensor. will be as expensive as going to audi for diagnose

slightly rough idle sometimes to, but not like it's fluctuating 100rpm's or so, its less

delphi professional scanner, cold/hot engine, cold/warm weather makes no difference, or little

sorry, 2001 s3 amk engine. and like said, no dtc's...

like title says, intermittent power loss. Sometimes the car feels like a 180hp car or so, sometimes even less. no boost leaks, vacuum should all be good. recent forge DV because oem failure. spark plugs, coils, all new. yesterday no boost at all( happend once), other times i allways hear boost...

its a facelift 2001 version, allthough the radio is't original, the sides are trimmed to fit, and i have a 6 cd symphony2 and a 6 cd loader in the boot, wich to me also makes no sense. thats why i hope coding with vcds will solve my problems. thx for the info tuffty

so it my be possible to keep my symphony2, and code it with vcds...??

stuart, exactly what u tell me here. symphony 2, 6cd, trimmed to fit, no dis function, no lf speaker and rf speaker sometimes loses function. so actually, vcds would be my solution to all these problems, instead of finding an oem one?

hey guys, just wondering what type of radio i would have OEM in the s3? it should be a double din. Currently got a symphony, but i suspect from a different car model, as it doesnt on/off with ignition, no gala signal, no speaker lf door panel. it also has a 6 cd in radio, whilst i got the 6cd in...

to be fair, opening the gearbox yourself istn't that hard..you will see that just a single stupid rivet has broken from the shift lever, replace it with a bolt and nut, close the box, and you can have a good spare box, or sell it for a bit more money.

got the same problem right know, and deff. the prop shaft's middle joint..said it before actually..

big driveshaft to rear differential, central cv joint broken

had the same problem, problem with a connector a bit loose.

pin in plug on ecm bad? has the ecu been removed for remap??

the tensioner is an auto kind tensioner, just put a 15mm wrench on it and pull it one side so the belt gets some slack. then you should be able to take the belt off

sounds like bad bearings in the alternator. Take off the belt and blow some pressured air into the vanes of the alternator. this will allow you to hear if the bearings are good or bad.

4.2 l/100km? how on earth?????

going to audi/vw day saturday @ circuit zolder??