Central Locking Problem - Remote Alarm

brettfk

Registered User
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Victoria, Australia
Website
www.sohoitr.net
:kissmyrings:Hi all.

I am from Australia and have a 1996 Audi A4 2.6 SE. As most of you are probably already aware, this model comes only with a basic central locking.

I recently purchased an after-market alarm for the car, which also has a shock sensor, immobiliser, and remote central locking.

According to the wiring diagram, for pneumatic locks, you need to connect main power and ground, and link in to the 'main control' wire (which i believe comes from the drivers door). I have attached these below.

To put it simply, I wired the central locking up exactly as the manual specifies and nothing happens at all. If, however, I swap the orange/black and white wires to go the opposite direction to the manual, this is what happens:

If I press lock or unlock on the remote control for the alarm, the relays click (indicator relays), and the pump goes off, but it doesn't actually lock or unlock any of the doors. The pump doesn't run as long and just before it shuts off it sounds like it is suddenly having problems running.

If I use the key in the keyhole on the drivers door to lock or unlock the car, the factory-installed central locking pump works perfect and locks and unlocks as commanded (and the pump runs for the time it should), but the alarm doesn't do anything.

Fuses are OK, and I know the factory installed central locking pump is fine as if I lock the car with the key it works 100% of the time. Seems to be some kind of timer communication issue between the alarm and locking pump.

Anyone have any ideas??

Thanks.

Links:
http://s660.photobucket.com/albums/u...Scanned-04.jpg
http://s660.photobucket.com/albums/u...ent=alarm2.jpg
http://s660.photobucket.com/albums/u...ent=alarm1.jpg
 
I dont think you want to use the "pneumatic" mode, as the central locking controller deals with that.

I think you want negative switching, but i'll check the diagrams in a bit to be sure.

All you want the box to do is emulate someone turning a key in the door, which is just a short pulse.
 
Thanks Aragorn.

Just to specify, there doesn't seem to be any specific config difference for pneumatic lock systems, just the wiring is a tad different. The only other thing that apparently has to be done is to change a jumper on the PCB to change the reaction time (see untitled-scanned-04.jpg).

Not to doubt your credibility, are you sure it may not just be something simple? Like I said, the pump runs, just not as long as it should, stopping the doors from locking/unlocking.

Also, sorry to be a pain in the rear, but if you believe that I need to wire it up differently, can you please be as specific as possible (wire colours most importantly).

Thanks for your quick reply.
 
I've installed a VERY similar system in my own car, it doesnt have the alarm part though, just provides the remote locking (the car already has an alarm)

When you use "Pneumatic" mode, including changing the jumper, its designed to directly drive the pump. Your not wanting to do that here, as the central locking controller deals with the pump. All you want to do is tell the controller to "lock" or "unlock" the car.

The easiest way to do this is to intercept the signals for the drivers door at the CL pump, and connect them up to use a 0.5sec negative pulse (as thats pretty much what turning the key in the lock does)

I'll go dig out the diagram for you now.
 
Ok it seems from the diagram it uses a 12v signal to lock and a ground signal to unlock (or maybe vice versa)

Theres only one wire on the pump that does it, which is a green/blue on pin "A/5"

I'm going to dig out the instructions for my kit to see if that matches up though, just to confirm.
 
hmm, my kit has two diagrams.

First one uses as i've described above with the system in "positive/negative" mode.

Thats not the way i've done it though.

I've used negative trigger mode, and connected the white wire (LOCK) from the unit to the brown/grey at A/4 and the White/Black (UNLOCK) to the grey/white wire at A/3

I'd go with that latter approach and see what happens, Negative trigger mode, change the jumper back to 0.5secs and wire it as above.
 
Hi again.

Good news and bad news.

Good news is, the unlock portion is now working perfectly.

The bad news is, I don't have a brown/grey wire. I only have three brown/whites.

Any idea?

Cheers
 
Aragorn,

never mind about the lock wire - i eventually (after over an hour of googling) found what colour wire I was looking for to do the lock, it was the blue/red wire. All fixed!

There is now one other problem I have. If you look at the main wiring diagram, you will notice there is both a + and a - for the door triggers.

Where do I connect them? I tried using them indivudally on the green/blue "main" wire, but it doesn't change anything.

This wouldnt be a problem but it auto-relocks after a minute and is already frustrating me...

Thanks
 
The blue goes to the door switces so the alarm knows the door has been opened and not to re lock, and the red goes to the window motor for the one touch up to allow total closure

The green woukld be used on a vehicle that uses posive triggering on the interior lights/door pins. iirc ours is neg trigger
 
Last edited:
Byzan A4,

This is all well and good, but what do I need to connect the green & blue wires to? My assumption would be to latch it on to the existing wiring, the only question I have is which wire?
 
I dont think the blue wire is to stop it locking?

Its there so the alarm can see if the doors open (ie someones broken in)...

So you found a blue/red at A/4?

Green just needs taped up and put away.

Did you change the wiring of the central locking wires to "negative trigger"?
 
its not to stop it locking per se, it's the door switch wire, but these cheapy alarms tend to lock the car if they have not been opened up after 60 secs, so if the door trigger isn't connetced it can't "know" the door is open. Have you a Haines manual to trace the door trigger wires to the kick panel?

I would look it up for you but am too busy atm
 
Hi guys,

aragorn - yes that's correct. my a4 uses a blue/red wire instead of the brown/grey you suggested. As for it being at A/4 I can't actually remember, pretty sure it was but seeing as I still have half the gear to wire up, I'll check it out and let you know.

So, basically, what I am trying to figure out at the moment is what I need to do to get the alarm to realise I have opened a door and not automatically lock after 60 secs (yes, it is one of those alarms Byzan), but rather when the ignition is started.

More to the point, what I'm not quite clear on is that you say the blue/green wires coming from the alarm are for detecting forced entry. But the way I understand this is that if that's the case then shouldn't those same connections be able to determine that the door has been opened and tell the alarm no to re-arm? And if not what do you believe the solution is to stopping the auto re-arm?

Sorry for the dumb questions. I understand a bit about electronics, but this is one thing that i'm a little unclear on. Your help is much appreciated guys.
 
Ye i think the alarm will use the same connections as you suggest.

Ignore the green wire. Tape it up out the way and dont touch it.

The blue wire needs connected to the door switch on the drivers door i presume. If you follow the wiring back you'll find the same connections are available at the central locking pump (the CL pump handles all the interior lights and suchlike, so it should be possible to intercept the signal there.

Do you have a haynes manual or other workshop manual for the car?
 
Hi aragorn,

thanks for clearing that up for me.

just one more enquiry - I have three brown/white wires, so I will check out A/10's colour tomorrow, and will try connecting them up. Fingers crossed!

Thanks.
 
Hi guys,

Thanks a million for your help. If it weren't for you I'd still be looking for the fuse panel :p

You were right aragorn, the wire I needed was a brown/white. I had already tried hooking up to one, but it was A/12 not A/10, so that explains it.

The rest of the wiring should be easy from here on in.

Thanks again for all the help, much appreciated. I know where to go from now on!!
 

Similar threads

Replies
7
Views
1K
Replies
10
Views
1K
I
Replies
4
Views
887