Who's 350+ BHP on 1.8TQS?

Dazzer

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Anyone running mods to support this kind of performance? What have you done please?

Anyone on Garrets? What compression ratio are you running?

TIA folks!
 
jcb is build a motor to roughly that spec.

Think hes using a GT28RS, but i might be wrong.

As for the CR, i wouldnt really want to drop it too much. As long as your using good fuel, good intercooling and sensible timing you should be fine without dropping much below 9.
 
me.
engine work:
Gt2871, tubular mani with Tial VBand exhaust housing and ext WG
2008cc (83mm bore 92.8mm ABA crank)
CR 9.2:1
scat rods, supertech valvetrain and pistons (only due to overbore, stock rods will see you fine)
630cc Eurodyne file (Tapp Auto)
4" MAF, Bosch 440 fuel pump
expanded OEM inlet mani (approx volume of 2.2l)
Forge FMIC
expecting 200bhp/250ftlbs around 4000rpm and closer to 400bhp at 7500rpm on 22psi

you could do 350 on just rods and a t25 28RS on a log mani with uprated fuel pump and FMIC on a serious budget if you wanted.
 
me.
engine work:
Gt2871, tubular mani with Tial VBand exhaust housing and ext WG
2008cc (83mm bore 92.8mm ABA crank)
CR 9.2:1
scat rods, supertech valvetrain and pistons (only due to overbore, stock rods will see you fine)
630cc Eurodyne file (Tapp Auto)
4" MAF, Bosch 440 fuel pump
expanded OEM inlet mani (approx volume of 2.2l)
Forge FMIC
expecting 200bhp/250ftlbs around 4000rpm and closer to 400bhp at 7500rpm on 22psi

you could do 350 on just rods and a t25 28RS on a log mani with uprated fuel pump and FMIC on a serious budget if you wanted.

Thanks, thinking of turning one into a dedicated track car, roll cage and all that business. Probably look for 400+, big turbo high revs....research to do!
 
400 is easily acheivable from a number of different turbo styles
GT2871/3071, 50trim, bullseye, t3s60 etc etc.

what kind of track? where do you want the power delivery?
4WD? 5sp/6sp?

personally I think a 1.8t is better suited to a track engine as you can lighten the valvetrain, spin it all day long at 8000rpm and use cams to gain a better high rev power delivery suited to a track car.

stroking it requires machining the block and rotating assembly and chaniging things like the removal of 5mm of the IM shaft to oil pump gear that I wouldn't want on a track car.
bore it and leave stroke at standard, save your money for other track related bits that are better suited to your use.
 
400 is easily acheivable from a number of different turbo styles
GT2871/3071, 50trim, bullseye, t3s60 etc etc.

what kind of track? where do you want the power delivery?
4WD? 5sp/6sp?

personally I think a 1.8t is better suited to a track engine as you can lighten the valvetrain, spin it all day long at 8000rpm and use cams to gain a better high rev power delivery suited to a track car.

stroking it requires machining the block and rotating assembly and chaniging things like the removal of 5mm of the IM shaft to oil pump gear that I wouldn't want on a track car.
bore it and leave stroke at standard, save your money for other track related bits that are better suited to your use.

4WD, 5sp- will have to look at gearing though!. Used on a variety of tracks. Agree with your comments on 1.8t as a track car that's why I am seriously considering it. Currently track an S4, and the 1.8t will handles better. How much power without re-bore? The car would be stripped of weight!!
 
rebore is an option not an essential
1.9 vs 1.8

There are 1.8's with a simple rod change running high 400's
personally if I was buildinga track engine I would change rods and valvetrain as a matter of course.
rods die at anything much over 300bhp and valve (specifically exhaust) can die at higher revs, higher EGT's and the bigger power stresses (exhaust vaves on the 20vt have a habit of losing there heads!)

stripped B5 saloon quattro running 400bhp with sensible suspension and handling mods will eat most track days visitors for breakfast. your in 911 territory
 
estimated power at flywheel.
I am with you on this one, rather know what is there than an guestimate
 
IMO BHP is a better figure to work with.

With wheel HP, you measure the power reaching the road and thats it. It doesnt take into account the losses thru the tyres or the drivetrain. As such you can see a huge increase in WHP on the same car, just by doing one test with the tranny stone cold and the tyres at 20psi, and another test with the tranny up to temperature and the tyres at 40psi.

With "Flywheel" HP, the dyno attempts to measure these losses by allowing the car to coast down at the end of the run, and measuring how much drag the driveline is placing on the rollers. This figure is then added to the measured wheel figures to give an approximation of the engines actual output.

Another example: The majority of losses thru the drivetrain actually come from the tyres (this is why 4wd cars appear to have over twice the losses as 2wd ones, theres 4 tyres being measured, not two). As such if you do one run on a wheel power dyno in 4th gear, "tune" the car, then take the second run in 3rd gear, because the road speed is lower there is less friction/drag, and you get a higher figure in 3rd gear even if you've changed nothing.

Again a coast down run would measure this difference and cancel it out.

The 4wd issue is the biggest one with wheel power dynos as at first glance two identical engines, one in a FWD car and one in a 4WD car would show the 4WD putting out a LOT less power. In reality on the road though, the two unmeasured undriven wheels of the 2wd are putting the same drag down as the extra pair of wheels on the 4wd car, so the only difference on the road is a tiny amount of losses thru the extra differentials.

A flywheel dyno would show both cars making the same power, and would more closely approximate how they actually perform on the road.
 
I see :) We tend to use wheel power, I think for us here in the states it works well since most all use that measure of power, thus making it seemingly accurate since we all compare each others based on that, we also take into consideration elevation and weight of vehicle. In reality my car will dyno between 250-275 dependent on if I run meth or not. So by the BHP measurement I would be between 300-325bhp I suppose just roughly guessing. Interesting I suppose.....
 
I see :) We tend to use wheel power, I think for us here in the states it works well since most all use that measure of power, thus making it seemingly accurate since we all compare each others based on that, we also take into consideration elevation and weight of vehicle. In reality my car will dyno between 250-275 dependent on if I run meth or not. So by the BHP measurement I would be between 300-325bhp I suppose just roughly guessing. Interesting I suppose.....

Nice avitar - what wheels you running please?
 

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