Egt n710 lambda MAF prices etc

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Matt82

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hi there

ive just got an s4 and it seems pretty screwed, im expecting the worst so am gonna price up all the usual suspects to be replaced under the bonnet

whats the cost of a
MAF
EGT
Lambda
N710 etc

also, a stat.
 
A MAF is about £100, EGT's and Lambda's I believe are approx £100-150 each (there are 2 of each - but 4 lambda's on the very late S4's), an N710 is about £60 and no idea about a thermostat, but do know it's a cambelt off job so you're looking at up to £500 for the parts+labour for that.

Also worth thinking about a replacement silicon hose set. Autobahn88 kits off eBay are good value (think they are around £60-80) and pretty good kit. I've had mine fitted for 3 years and no problems.

And a Vagcom cable off eBay is worthwhile too.

Hope you got a good price!
 
EGT's are about £110 each iirc
710n's are about 25quid each
Lambda depends if you go genuine (80ish) or universal (40ish)

No idea on the MAF, i recon a few hundred quid, and i need one for my V8 :(
 
sod... thats pretty bad

worst case £400 for egts and lambdas
another £100 for MAF

hose set is on its way too

are you taking the pee about the stat being a cambelt off job? i should have checked if the engine bay was designed by a complete moron before i started
 
On a positive note.. at least with all of this work you'll know your engine inside and out in no time!
 
Someone recently did a 30v v6 stat on here without removing the belt, but it IS inside the belt cover afaik, and seen as you've already ripped it apart to get at it, i would be silly to leave the old belt on there unless it was done pretty recently.

Are you sure its the stat? and not just the CTS?
 
my water temp can vary with speed.

oil temps are just mental. typically its about 80*, on the motorway its about 100*, but give it beans and it can drop to nothing to shoot off to 150+ which i know given that one blast in 3rd from a roundabout will not achieve

i think ive got a duff oil temp sender or duff wiring

i think i may as well sorn the car and just strip the front end down (after ive vagcomd it) i cannot get that cable fast enough tbh
 
haha is it 100% engine out? will be a chance to see the state of the turbos too (ie shaft play)
 
Suddenly it's not looking like such a cheap car...

The manifold rattle of doom tends to affect mainly the pre-facelift cars, as the manifolds used in the facelift cars were changed.

Fingers crossed for you.
 
The rattling manifolds can also affect facelift cars, though less common.

And yes, 100% engine out job to fix.
 
who wants to play "guess what vagcom said"?
 
Give us a clue first. All you said was "it seems screwed". What were the symptoms?
 
im so excited, ill just say it.

boost leak... thats it! cleared the airbag fault, cleared the engine code, and drove it. you hear the boost build and then you hear it dump and its back in limp. i just need to hunt for the boost leak

it still has a rattle and something noisy in the belt system, but ill fix the boost first and then see what the rattle is about

im feeling far more positive about it today. the figures given by the measuring blocks all looked plausible too, which was nice.

as for limp mode, anyone know what it effects? obviously you get no boost, but does it ****** ignition etc for component protection? i hope it isnt always this in efficient on fuel
 
Vagcom actually said "boost leak"?

I've never seen that before. Also worth pointing out that due to the N249 valve (which its worthwhile removing) the ECU can dump the boost whenever it pleases.

What was the actual fault code?
 
positive boost deviation, i dont remember the fault code though.
 
yup, any of those.

gonna pressure test it tonight. im hoping something is simply not connected. ive got tons of vac hose laying about anyway

is there a vac hose map you know of for these engines?
 
had a couple hours play under the bonnet tonight. at my new place i dont have lighting etc so i just had a strip light on a cable blah blah blah

anyway, airbox. what a blag. only three clips holding the lid on. sure enough that made "the rattle" a lot better. the air filter is a mess in that it was not put in properly and then forced into place. the off side headlight has been damaged too

the MAF, there are a couple rubber sealing rings, one at each end. both were folded some how = massive air leak!

one DV is code F and a vac/boost leak. i put a new vac hose on the fuel pressure reg and the working DV. ive blanked off the vac hoses for the dead DV for now and am about to take a test run if i can get vag com to work on this laptop

it sounds much more like a v6 now. i dont have my stethescope here yet so could diagnose the rattle any further though
 
Wouldn't worry too much about the seals around the MAF, as this isn't pressurised. Sure, you might get a small amount of air being sucked in through the gaps, but unless the leaks are really bad there, I wouldn't expect the MAF reading to be too badly affected.

No point in doing logs if one of your DV's is knackered, as it won't be able to hold boost. The boost will just be escaping back into the intake. Best off waiting until you've replaced both DV's.
 
why would you need to replace both? i know the parts people at my local VW dealer really well so am going to source as many parts as possible through them. mine currently has 710C valves on there

with the dead valve, it will hold boost. it would have been forcing air back out the vac hose, but ive blanked that, it just wont dump it at all.

i couldnt get my pressure tester on. it was made for a 20vt engine ages ago so i might have to make another

ive got a vw meet to go to tonight, i wont have a chance not to play with the car until sunday..
 
because they're 25quid and prone to failure? May as well jsut fit a pair of N's

Also, the DV will leak without boost pressure on the sense line.

The spring isnt designed to hold the valve shut against full boost pressure, as in normal operation, both sides of the diaphram are seeing the same pressure.
 
If the diaphragm in the DV is torn then it will get deformed under boost and allow it to escape back into the intake. If anything, it will deform more with the vacuum line crimped off because there is nothing to 'inflate' the diaphragm from the inside.

Defo replace both of your DV's with 710N's. The other 710C could be due a failure at any time and you probably wouldn't notice for a while. For the sake of £25 you could be risking your turbos.

Sounds like you've done your homework and know your stuff though, so i'm sure you will have it running sweet soon enough.
 
two new DV on order (from vw), a pair of 710n, £23 each. they cant do an n75j as thats brand specific. im suprised i couldnt get that, im on christmas card terms with that little lot!

other than an n75j, what else is worth having or just replace with OE?
 
Just replace the N75 with OEM. Some people had tried using the RS2 N75, but a lot had reverted back to the standard unit because it caused boost spikes and the power delivery wasn't as smooth.
 
Ye VW dealers simply cant order the stuff if its an Audi only part.

Had the same issue just a few weeks ago with the number plate light holders.

They could get the plug housing and the cables, but not the holders themselves.

I concur, use a standard N75.
 
oem n75 is also a vw part, saving me some pennies! its on its way now, overnight from germany (would be better if it were from japan)
p/n 078 906 283a
 
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definately check your f hose as well a common source of leaks - f-hose delete is worth looking into anyway to eliminate that for the future

get onto AudiSRS for how to guides for all of these
 
if its code F then i might delete it in the short term but id rather just get a full silicon hose kit and replace it all. im up to my eyeballs in moving flat at the moment, but ill get to the bottom of it eventually

i might get a few hours on saturday morning, but then were off to portsmouth to see friends... :(
 
if you delete it then leave it deleted, dont go putting it back on because you've fitted a silicon hose kit...

We did an N249 delete just the other week on craigs car, were going to do the F-hose too, but someones already replaced it with a metal one!
 
anyone know the OD of the maf where it joins the next trunk?
 
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