Help!, whats happening with my instruments

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Hi, I've just had the weirdest problem occur on my 97 A4. I was on my home tonight engine started, lights on, drive out of the car park, and then the instrument panel centre part with the gear i'm in mileage etc (auto box) dissapeared into blackness, along with the main dipped headlights and when I tried to indicate, nothing happened there either. I pulled in and switched off, turned the ignition to just before start and checked the lights and sure enough full beam was on started the car up and still nothing on the dash and the indicators wtill werent working. Pulled away as I wasnt far from home, and they just sprang into life again.

Any ideas anyone, it all seems very bizarre.
 
Oooh. Sounds like it could be the ole' ignition barrel again.... When you start the car (put on the lights to dippied) try to notice of the key returns to the II position, if your not sure give it a gentle flick or turn the key back gently 'til it stops. This should be the standard position for the key with the car running. If the key doesn't return the chances are that the ignition barrel house has cracked and doesn't hold the spring tension to return the key.
 
You've hit the nail on the head :) thanks.

Just been out to the car and given it a whirl, and that is exactly what has happened. I started the car and let go of the key in the ignition and it stayed where it was, but give it a little touch and it pops right back to number 2 position. I'm sure I could live with having to give it a little help back into place, but is this going to get worse, can I fix it with a little WD40 to help it slip back easier, or am I going to have to face the main dealer with my credit card for a new ignition barrel fitting.

Thanks
 
Erm, I had to go to the dealer, I didn't know much about it when it happened, it also turned out that because the key didn't return (and I didn't know what was going on) it fried the solenoid on the starter so it cost me a double whammy! The barrel or switch will defintely have to be replaced. Have a search on here or on Audiworld.com for an faq or tech article. I'm not sure if you can do it without replacing the key or whether you'll need a full new barrel&ignition switch with key.
I think there may be more qualified folks on here to answer that part.
 
the thing is though , mine actually does spring back when you ask it to nicely and doesnt go back again as if it is actually being locked in the correct position. Does this mean my car maynnot suffer the same fate ?
 
audi upgrades
Hmm, can't say. Best to go in there and have a look, either way it'll be cheaper than going to the stealership and saying 'something's wrong with my ignition'....
I had my starter fixed before I had the barrel/switch fixed and I could drive it around fine with (in fact about two weeks) before getting it fixed, but was truely beefed by the end with no spring retention left what so ever.
 
Are we talking about your A4 2,6 auto here?

I have an ignition switch here, I replaced my complete switch / barrel with a facelift item, so I could utilise the foldaway key.

My original one's in good shape, if you're interested?
 
Edit> Just dug out my parts - it's the complete barrel housing, and switch.
 
Here's what I have - I replaced the complete barrel housing brand new last June, as it often didn't return to the "engine running" position after starting. It turned out the aluminium peg that goes into the switch had a crack, and was flexing within the switch recess.

I purchased a new housing from Audi, and was adviced I buy a new switch too, as there was a revision - the new housings had a thicker aluminium peg, so as mine had the early switch, it would have a smaller recess for the peg.

I purchased both in the end.

Photobucket's down for maintenance, will post pictures later if you're interested?

Looking at £15 for both posted.
 
Siena, I am interested certainly, but it sounds as though the one you have spare has the same problem or am I looking at it wrong :\ Also would this mean I have a different key, that would then need re coding etc ?
 
No, mine did have the same issues you're having - I replaced both the ignition switch and barrel housing brand new.

I removed them a couple of months later, so I could fit the facelift lock set to match my doors, which are RS4 items with the later handles.

Your key remains the same - the ignition barrel doesn't break, it's the housing peg, that fits the recess of the ignition switch that gives up the ghost.

Your ignition barrel fits into the housing, so your key remains the same.
 
Thanks for payment.

Here's what you're getting:

Photo018.jpg


Photo019-2.jpg


Photo020-2.jpg
 
I wish I'd known about this stuff when mine went. I'd have saved myself a small fortune :O(

Ah well, we live and learn.
 
So looking at the pictures you have supplied, I need to remove the cap off the end of the ignition barrel. I should then be able to remove the tumbler and add it to the new housing, then just replace the cap and fit the whole lot in place of the existing one ?

Thanks
 
You need to turn the ignition to the "on" position.

There's a little hole between the keyhole and the black surround.
Find a stiff piece of wire, and push it into the small hole, as far as you can.

That releases the retainer, then you simply withdraw the barrel.

It then simply fits into the new housing, and snaps into place.
 
Got in the car this morning and its idling at 1500 rpm, but I didnt worry as it was cold so I thought it must be just the auto choke kicking and continued on my way to work. Pulled into the carpark at work 20 mins later and its still idling at 1500rpm, is this related to the ignition problem, or have I discovered another problem. I have had VAGCOM hooked upto the car and it tells me theres nothing wrong.
 
If this is the 2,6, they don't like interrupted power supply, and the throttle body and ECU will go out of sync, and require resetting.
 
You might find just leaving the ignition on without starting the motor will recalibrate the throttle body, our 1.8T's TB makes whirring and clicking sounds if you do that which sounds exactly the same as a throttle body alignment on the S4 motor.

Cars tend not to adjust their idle settings with the car moving, as doing so would mean the possibilty of the car accellerating itself, so if it was idling at 1500rpm when you set off, then its still going to be idling at 1500rpm when you stop again. Might even find just leaving it idling for a minute or two would have braught it back down.
 
This is indeed the 2.6. I have been and hooked up the laptop and done the Vagcom route :

Engine - Measuring Blocks - Group 001

and let it re sync, and its now back down to around 900 rpm idle.

Thanks Siena

But what I dont understand is, I have not disconnected the battery recently :\
 
With your ignition issue, it's very possible you temporarily lost power to the ECU.
 
Hurray for Siena, Boooooo for royal mail

My part arrived in the post yesterday, but as no one was in to accept it they took it to local sorting office for me to collect. I went to pick it up and opened the parcel to be faced with :



I'm hoping this isnt a show stopper as it appears to just be a locating pin for the plug, and there are two others that are ok. Also when they've snapped that off theyve managed to bend one of the pins slighty too, you can just pick it up in the pic.

My only question now is, what do I do about the sheer bolts, as obviously this is a second hand item, the sheer bolts have no nut on them to sheer off when I fit it.



Can I get replacements from Audi, or should I just use normal bolts ?

Thanks as always for any feedback
 
You can get Audi replacements, or just use normal bolts.

On my car, I used torx-head bolts, and it was good to go.
 
Thanks, I'll go and find some from somewhere.
 
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