Misfiring prob

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QuattroChris

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just come back from a drive as the car started playing up, firstly started not having power / missing when in 4th with low revs. then happening in all gears and idle but only when the throttle is opened.

em light comes on then off.

sound similar to anyone
 
Could be like you say, faulty coil pack.
Try taking one out at a time and see if there is any difference. You'll soon know..
 
Pull one coil out at a time and if the engine gets rougher that coil is working, if no change in the engine the coil is ******!
 
Reset the code with vag-com, or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes then reconnect.
 
Chris, dont forget you have to pull the coil right out. You'll notice a different tone in your engine and might even cut out if one has gone already and you pull a working one out!
 
No, leave the wring plug in else the coil will be dead anyway without a feed.
 
i think i've found the problem, when i pull the middle 2 coils out there is no sounds, when the 2 outter ones are pulled out you can hear a rapid succession of clicks.

so took the connecting plugs out of the middle 2 and the car still ran, with out struggling, one the other plugs are disconneted the engine strugles and dies. am I right in saying the middle 2 are ******?
 
So lets get this right...

Your car at present is running ***** yeah, You pulled out the Middle 2 and its still exactly the same, running ***** as before???

If so then yes the 2 middle ones are Dead!!!!!

Buy 4 new ones and keep the 2 that are working in your Boot for spare.
 
It was in Limp mode?? How you Know..?
So is it running ok now or still same?

If you only had it a week then id be taking it back down mate, with a warrenty or no warrenty, Id stand my ground. A week aint long enough for them to fob you off!
 
my mate said limp mode is when the middle 2 dont spark. disconnected the battery for 15/20 minutes all plugs spark took the 2 middle ones and out it died, same with the outter 2.

would we say that's the plugs / coils ok.

it only seems to missfire when throttle open / with load i.e driving
 
Pull 1 coilpack at a time see if the engine runs worse or not then replace the coil. You shouldnt have 2 off at a time! When mine went last week 3 blew in succession.

When the car goes into limp mode you get loss of power to protect the engine not loss of 2 cylinders.
 
ALL trade (garage) car sales have a 30 day full warranty via the sale of goods act 2001, that they must be of merchantable quality, fit for purpose and free of defects.

The garage is liable for any failures on the car for 30 days from the date of delivery of the car to you.

Just take it back and dont take any excuses, if they fob you off tell them you will call in your local council's trading standards officers and do it if they still refuse to fix it at no cost to you. Do not pay them ANY money for ANY repairs in the first 30 days.
 
Ok, i will try reset the ecu and check each coil. When you pull it out i should hear it clicking i believe. If it's not the coil or spark plugs what's next? I can't get it back to the garage as the car won't go anywhere struggles to get to 30 as it's mis firing and enters limp mode. And the garage i got it from is about 150 miles away
 
J7USS said:
So lets get this right...

Your car at present is running ***** yeah, You pulled out the Middle 2 and its still exactly the same, running ***** as before???

If so then yes the 2 middle ones are Dead!!!!!

Buy 4 new ones and keep the 2 that are working in your Boot for spare.
Click to expand...

Exactly!! I had same problems before, it went dead, and I bought new one and it solved problem. Simple, isn't it? :sign_plug:
 
Test the coils one by one and see what happens, removing 2 will almost certainly cause the engine to stall at idle,

The "Clicking" is simply the spark arcing between the plug and the coil, and it could still be making enough of a contact to keep providing a spark

I personally would prefer removing the wiring connector to each coil in turn rather than removing the coil itself, as that way there is no risk of jamming HT Voltage into your arm.

Also note don't try to drive it anywhere like that, or you'll wreck the cat.
 
Ok still no frigging luck, took it round the corner for a diognosis, says a misfire on no.1 so i go get a new coil, guess what still a frigging missfire. even though the garage are willing to pay for it we are having to shell out in the first place.

am i right in saying cyl 1 is at the front? and spark plugs should they been done very very tight? (dont have my torque wrench here so dont know how tight 22nm is) is it worth resetting the ecu again and trying?

and i still can remove 2 coils and it still runs
 
the ecu doesnt need reset, it will continually try to run properly so ignore that.

I don't think your removing the coils properly if you can remove two of them and the engine continues to run. With only two cylinders the engine would never be able to run at idle.

Cyl 1 is at the front. Spark plugs shouldn't really be wound up VERY tight. there is a spring washer on them that you can feel compressing. It really just needs nipped up with a standard 3/8" ratchet. If you go mental you'll strip the threads in the cylinder head, and that gets expensive.

How are you removing the coils? are you just lifting them up a little or completely removing them from the cylinder head? I would suggest that removing the wiring to the coil instead of trying to get the coil out of the cylinder head, that way you know for sure that its disconnected.

When you remove a working coil, you should notice a definite change in how the engine runs, if it doesnt change then its likely the one you've removed is the faulty one. But it WILL defo change on removing the coil.
 
audi upgrades
If removing each coil changes the engines running then it cant really be a coil issue.

I presume its more of an intermittent misfire rather than constant?

It could be the spark plugs, or the plug gap. What plugs are you using and what are they gapped to? I tend to find sticking to a nice standard plug like the BKR6E works well. IIRC they should be gapped to 0.028" or 0.7mm.

If its not that then i guess you need to look at fuelling, perhaps a faulty CTS or something?

What do the spark plugs look like? White? brown? black? oily?
 
CTS is the coolant temperature sensor. You'll need vagcom to check it.

Super4's are *****, so put them in the bin, the new plugs; are they single or twin electrode? and whats the gap set to?

What do the plugs look like in color? White/Brown/Black?
 
Soon as you start your motor up is it running wild??
...what about when you rev it, is it lumpy or is it only when you actually drive??
 
daammmnnnnnnn, all 4???:ohmy:

Jesus.Least they covering it, sorted then - Result!!:yahoo:
 
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