Another B5 down

Mark and Stacie, sorry to hear of all your troubles, hope Stacie gets well soon and Mark the car gets sorted.

I guess times are bad and you just have to hope for the best, im sure everything will work out in time for you, looking forward the new year is around the corner and maybe things will get better for you, this hasnt been a good year for alot of people unfortunately.

Looks like you getting alot of support on here and im sure everything will work out for you....

Dont know if there is anything I can do from here, but if there is, give us a shout guys.

All the best
Nilz
 
Byzan A4 said:
I think once it heated and caught fire it also ruptered the oil feed as its only a hose with braiding at the end of the day on the turbo end iirc

As for the cause, i am not sure, i am hoping to send it to Scroll products for analysis/verdict and go from there
Click to expand...

Sounds like turbo failure then?! Hopefully Sean at Scroll Products will give you some answers.. Absolutely gutted for you mate.
 
Lee, water plug posted today first class so hope we can get you going.

I emailed Sean and have had this reply.....

There are two possibilities with regard to the catastrophic failure although we need the core in order to isolate the exact problem. Its possible the locknut came loose or a common issue that we come across referred to as "coking". The 1.8t engine developes extreme heat under normal conditions, with an aggressive tune and high boost there isnt enough oil cooling to keep it from coking, especially after a hard run with no cool down period. When small amounts of this crystal oil begin to circulate in the system the oil canals inside the turbo center housing clog.

We have a client who like yourself had his turbo for apprx 6 months, last week during a rolling session at Uni-Tronic PL the turbo popped and my client wanted to kill me. After further investigation we discovered the journal bearing canals were "coked", the shaft had signifigant wear on both rotating planes allowing shaft play. The shaft removed enough material from the bearing seat allowing the compressor wheel to make contact.

Like yourself we are not placing blame, simply providing facts.
Click to expand...

So i think i need to run the k03 from andyb/alpine and stick my old chipped ECU on for the time being till i have the answers i need about reasons for failiure.

The oil's changed regulataly and the engine/turbo cooled and warmed correctly so i recon thats all good.I am now worried that my recent map has a bearing on it or its just a coincedence ?????????????

I cannot aportion blame until all of the facts are in hand, and it doesnt look like the turbo will be looked at till the new year as Sean is traveling home for xmas etc(rightly so)
 
mark.. is he sure its known as coking.. i mean should it not be "cherry coking"??














sorry bruv i could not resist it! x x x x
 
Hi Mark,Like Audinary i dont really know anyone personally on this forum but would like to wish you and Stacie the best of wishes and hope 2009 has better in store for you than 2008 did.

He is also right at what a great place this forum is and shows what can be done when people need help!!

Hope you get better soon Stacie and Mark,hope the audi is sorted for you soon.
 
Mark,

Thanks a lot for sorting the plug out mate especially with everything that's going on at your end :respekt:

Sean seems like a reasonable guy so I'd hope that if he identifies a fault with the turbo unit (locknut maybe as suggested) he will help you out.

If it's "coking" then it sounds like it's down to the map not suiting the turbo (too much heat?!).. although you'd hope that they'd monitor exhaust temps/lambda values to keep them in safe parameters at the map!?!?

As I said before if there's anything I can do then give me a shout mate.

Just thought.. Got an S.P. turbo and similar map on mine from Saturday GULP!!!
 
The other possibility if it is coking is low quality oil. Not sure what oil you use in it, but with such a highly tuned motor I'd think you really do need good quality synthetic oil to cope with the heat involved.

The coking as he describes it is, afaik, only an issue if you rag the motor then turn it off without letting it cool properly, i cant really imagine decent quality oil breaking down like that with the motor running and oil flowing thru the turbo bearing, unless the flow rate was particularly low due to a dodgy oil pump or something...

If the EGT's were high enough to damage the turbo, you'd have no exhaust valves left either.
 
aragorn said:
The other possibility if it is coking is low quality oil. Not sure what oil you use in it, but with such a highly tuned motor I'd think you really do need good quality synthetic oil to cope with the heat involved.

The coking as he describes it is, afaik, only an issue if you rag the motor then turn it off without letting it cool properly, i cant really imagine decent quality oil breaking down like that with the motor running and oil flowing thru the turbo bearing, unless the flow rate was particularly low due to a dodgy oil pump or something...

If the EGT's were high enough to damage the turbo, you'd have no exhaust valves left either.
Click to expand...

Can't imagine Mark would be using low grade oil and he said he always 'cools down' too. Most likely faulty turbo or some kind of oil starvation.. blocked feed or knackered oil pump then? Although I suppose it's only speculation until the turbo has been examined.
 
The oil i use is millers full synth 5/30. it meets and exceeds all vw specs and i always change well early (6k max)

I am hoping its a turbo issue of some kind as i said, i will never rag har and just shut down, i even have a turbo timer in case i cannot wait with the car.As for egt's i cannot say, tho chipped do moniter lamda values afaik when the simulate on the bench.
As lee said, we can only guess until the turbo has been checked and Sean at scroll has so far been really good.
I aim to send the old unit off ASAP, but it prob wont get examined until the new year as Sean is going home for the holidys, if indeed it is ruined due to something my end, i am sure it will be evident, and then i can speak to Sean about maybe aquiring another then as i am gonna sell my PC to hopefully cover the cost..

I do know that some of the costs involved in making a Mutant is machining for the larger exhaust turbine, maybe mine is ok so money saved there
 
Picking up the turbos tonight, fingers crossed... I'll get rebuilding them prob on Thursday afternoon so should be ready for you on Friday for dispatch.
 
Byzan: Probably isnt directly related, but a 30weight oil really is a bit on the thin side, especially if the engines tuned and running hot. I'm sure the VW spec for the 1.8T is 5w40 or 10w40. Most people when running highly tuned engines use thicker oil than stock, like 5w60 or similar as it handes the higher temps without getting too thin. I dont think you need to go to that level of oil, unless your tracking the car or something like that, but i would at least be using a 40 weight oil in the future!
 
I am using what most 1.8t users use in the US and more than what is spec'd by vw 507 iirc.

I wouldnt be running it without having checked first,but thanks for the info. Maybe i will do some more homework
 
Andy.B said:
Picking up the turbos tonight, fingers crossed... I'll get rebuilding them prob on Thursday afternoon so should be ready for you on Friday for dispatch.
Click to expand...

Wicked, any chance you can grab an oil feed pipe also matey? :icon_thumright:
 
I use 0-30w Castrol SLX II from a VW dealer. Has it in the car manual wher it lists the codes of oil to use in 1.8T engines and S4 etc. And the SLX II matches that.

I have had it in my car since I got it almost 5 years ago and over 55k miles with no issues.

I do change it every 5k though.
 
I use Quantum Gold straight from Audi not sure what rating it is without going to garage.
last time i was at Audi got some oil treatment from them run for a few hundred miles then change oil again. Old oil was very black after treatment, worth doing.
Cant beat good quality oil and regular changes, seems what everyone is doing though.
 
Byzan A4 said:
Aye, i also use a large capacity K&N oil filter, holds nearly an additional litre of oil
Click to expand...
Interesting? any info on that k&n would be good, I know you got your hands full.
I know there are two types of oil filter depending on our cars, I was suprised how much was left in container after oil change might as well be in the engine than the garage.
 
lots of people running larger filters on passat 1.8t as it helps with sludging
I run Mobil 1 0w30.
you need a fully synthetic or it will coke up in the turbo lines and a super thin oil works well at cold temps on start up which is proven to be a killer on turbo s on cars doing short trips, that and hot engine turn off (hence the synthetic bit)
 
Yeah the transvers engine hold more oil, Well the A3 we have does for sure. The long motors have a rediculously low capacity IMO.

Never anything except fully symth in mine.

Any one have a good spare oil feed line?
JCB Any idea what model has the larger filter???
 
sorry mark. only just got in from sheffield. unforunatly missed adny b`s time line as he had to go work. im workin al day 2morrow but ill get the turbos ready for you mate :)

blame the northerners, was there fault!
 
Hmm, you probably find you can get an off the shelf standard filter that fits the audi oil filter housing and is larger than the stock item... Might be worthwhile doing some research into it and getting the FRAM or whatever part numbers for future reference!

I really dont think i would be running a 30 weight oil in my engine unless it was bone stock. The manual says 10w40 or 5w40, and 507.00 wasnt around when the engine was built...
A tuned engine should, if anything, be running a thicker oil, to better cope with the thermal demands. The 5w30 oils used in recent years are mainly designed for hippy friendly fuel economy and allowing the engine to manage 15k between services (or whatever other rediculous service interval the manufacturer thinks looks good on paper)

In short, while a 5w30 might be fine for tootling around town, when the going gets tough and your giving it hell, the oil temperature rises, and it gets too thin. Highly tuned engines tend to run oils like 10w50 or thicker (BMW M-Sport recommend a 10w60 for some of their engines for example...) as you'll find that when the oil temperature climbs to say 110-120c under load, the oil stays as a much more sensible thickness, and its not THAT much worse at 90c to cause any problems for normal driving.

I also note that oils i'd consider for use in a high performance engine (Silkoline Pro S or Castrol Edge Sport for example) dont even come in a 30 weight formula. They're only available in 40 or higher...
 
I'd be careful with regards to fitting larger capacity oil filters.

Especially if the anti-drain valve is not present, or different to OEM.
There have been issues with low oil pressure on some cars so fitted.

Audi S2's used to suffer with rattly tappets when fitted with much larger filters...
 
aragorn said:
BMW M-Sport recommend a 10w60 for some of their engines for example...)

Castrol doesn't even come in a 30 weight formula.
Click to expand...

not a dig at you aragorn but BMW M Sport have never built a range of turbo "road" vehicles (aside from the obvious 1400cc 1000bhp F1 engine, but I doubt they used anything you can buy off the shelf).
oil spec difference for turbo vs NA is huge

As for Castrol, I would rather use vegetable oil than put Castrol in my car.
I have had first hand experience of it breaking down and hideous coking issues. some of the horror stories are even worse

I use 0w30 and change probably every 3000-4000 miles and change the filter every 6-8000.
bearing in mind 5 litres of Mobil one is less than £20 in Costco, what is an extra £20 every 2-3months when you are shovelling in £50-60 quids worth of fuel every other day/week?

Lot of VW Vortex chaps with much higher tuned engines are running big filters on longi and transverse engines with good results.

If you do any track work or like a spirited drive in the country in you tuned.modded 1.8t, failure to invest in an uprated oil coiler to keep those temps down is just irresponsible.
they are cheap, you can get them with thermostatically controlled valves, they are relatively small and easy to fit.
no brainer if you like keeping it hot


sorry, got a bit carried away there...soapbox rant over
 
The point with the M-Sport motor isnt really mooted by the fact its not turbocharged, infact the turbo simply adds even more thermal burden to the oil, and the engine as a whole, as you've generally got a smaller unit producing more power per CC than an NA engine.

Changing the oil every 3-4k is perfectly acceptable and isnt really an issue here. I change the oil in mine every 5k, and its a 174k smoker that burns a litre of oil every 2k.

I'm simply saying that for a tuned engine, the oil should be thicker than stock, not thinner, go ask any experianced engine tuner that builds high power engines what oil they'd recommend for a turbocharged motor producing >150bhp/litre and i'd put money on the fact they wouldnt suggest a 30 weight oil.

If you wish to fill you engine with 30weight then fine, its your choice. I'm just saying go look at the figures of the original 10w40 the engine was specified to be filled with, and compare its viscosity numbers with your 0w30 oil, especially when the oil temp exceeds 90c (which it will in localised areas under high load).

I'll continue using 5w40 in mine, and if i was building an engine like yours thats going to be producing 400hp then it would almost certainly be running 0/5w40 or even 10w50.

As an aside, Mobil1 have discontinued their 0w30 "racing" oil, and their recommended replacements are "Mobil1 0w40" or 15w50: http://www.mobil.com/UK-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Racing_0W-30.asp
 
5W-30 is very thin, and engines are generally sensitive to oil viscosity.

The above oil's recommended for Zetec engines, any thing else and they run like dogs.

I used 5W-30 just once, in my RS2-engined B2 Coupe quattro, and once was enough.
I lost oil pressure at 126 degrees at sustained high RPM on my way back from AMD, and had to pull over till it cooled enough to carry on.

I used the 5W-30 because a friend of mine worked in Dagenham, and used to get them free.

I ended up having to dump the oil at a shell garage, and had to fill up with 10W-40.

Most of the Cosworth boys run 5w50, 10w40, 15w50, 10w60, with 50 and 60 weights being the preferred among the big power cars.

Burton Power, one of the oldest and most respected of names in the Ford tuning world, recommend 15W-50 or 10W-60 for highly tuned engines.

Obviously, it's a matter of personal preference when it comes to what oil you choose to run.
 
All fair points.

Below is a list of the VAG approved oils in order to comply with most of their global warranties. Not one over xW40 weight and many of them xW30 weight.

YAA/YBB Cosworth engine was designed in the late seventies and released again as a turbo verion in the early 80's. its almost 30 years old, higher viscosity oils have always been recommended for older design engines if only to maintain pressure because the machining tolerances are lower.
The YBB also has a pants oil pump and is known to suffer from oil pressure related issues hot and cold.
have heard of tappet problem on 1.8t running 50-60weight oils as they can't get up to pressure fast enough and then can stay pressurised.

The difference in viscocity index for 30 weight vs 40 weight is minimal at 100deg C. 4cSt

I will also be running a Garrett turbo which has a oil restrictor specified which is based on a 30/40 weight oil. changing the spec would require a rethink on restrictor size.

Much rather keep my oil temps down with a decent cooler and ducting.
You must have been driving like you stole it to get close to 130deg C!


But to be honest, I only buy that grade of Mobil 1 becasue it is on special offer! ;)

VW/Audi Spec 502 00

Addinol Addinol Extra Power MV 0538 LE SAE 5W-30
Addinol Addinol Super light MV0546 SAE 5W-40
Addinol High Star SAE 5W-40
Addinol Addinol Eco Light SAE 5W-40
Adnoc Adnoc Image SAE 5W-30
Adnoc Adnoc Image SAE 5W-40
Agip Agip Sint Evolution SAE 5W-40
Agip Agip Sint Turbodiesel SAE 5W-40
Agip Agip Synthetic PC SAE 5W-40
Agip Agip Tecsint SL SAE 5W-40
Agip Agip Extra HTS SAE 5W-40
AnYe Lubricating Oil AnYe 1 SAE 5W-40
Aral Aral SuperTronic Diesel SAE 0W-40
Avia Avia Synth SAE 5W-40
Beijing Tongyi
Petroleum Xin Gai Nian SAE 5W-40
BP BP Visco 5000 SAE 5W-40
BP BP Visco 7000 Sport SAE 5W-40
BP BP Visco 7000 TD SAE 5W-40
BP BP Visco 7000 TD Sport SAE 5W-40
BP Meister-Öl Leichtlauf-Motorenöl SAE 5W-40
BP BP Professional EURO Plus SAE 5W-40
BP BP EuroSpirit SAE 5W-40
Bucher AG MOTOREX Select SP-X SAE 5W/30 SAE 5W-30
Bucher AG MOTOREX PROFILE V-XL SAE 5W/40 SAE 5W-40
Carl Bechem Hessol ADT Plus SAE 5W-40
Carl Bechem Staroil Synergie Alpha SAE 5W-40
Castrol Adamol Multitop PDI SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol 505 01 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Formula RS Road and Track SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol GTD 505 01 Top Up SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol GTD Direct Injection SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol GTX 5 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol GTX 7 Dynatec Neu SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol TXT 505 01 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol TXT Softec Plus SL SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W-40 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol GTX 9 Magnatec SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W-30 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol GTD Magnatec 5W-40 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol SLX Professional SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol Magnatec Professional C3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Edge SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Magnatec Professional C3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol Magnatec Diesel B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Edge SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol SLX Professional Diesel SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol Magnatec C3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Magnatec C3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol Magnatec Professional C3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Magnatec Professional C3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol SLX Professional SAE 5W-40
Castrol Castrol GTX Magnatec SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol GTX Magnatec C3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol SLX Professional OE SAE 5W-30
Castrol Castrol Magnatec Professional SAE 5W-40
CastrolCastrol GTX 7 Dynatec SAE 5W-40
CastrolCastrol Syntec SAE 5W-40
CastrolCastrol Edge Formula RSSAE 0W-40
CastrolCastrol Magnatec A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Cepsa Cepsa Star Mega SyntheticSAE 5W-40
Cepsa Cepsa Star TDI Synt SAE 5W-40
Chevron Havoline Ultra SSAE 5W-40
Chevron Havoline Ultra SSAE 5W-30
Cyclon Hellas Cyclon F1 Racing SAE 5W-40
De Oliebron TOR Specialsynth SAE 5W-40
Dongying Xinyi Xin Yi 1 SAE 5W-40
Duckhams Duckhams QS SAE 5W-40
Duckhams Duckhams QS Premium MO SAE 5W-40
Elf Elf Excellium DID SAE 5W-40
Engen Petroleum Engen Xtreme SAE 5W-40
Enoc Protec X-treme SAE 5W-40
Esso Esso Ultron SAE 5W-40
Esso Esso Ultron SL SAE 5W-40
Esso Esso Ultron Turbo Diesel SAE 5W-40
Esso Motor Oil Plus SAE 5W-40
Esso Megatron SAE 5W-40
Esso Tecar Supersyn SAE 5W-40
Esso Tecar Leichtlaufmotorenoel SAE 5W-40
Eurol Eurol Super Lite 5W-40 SL/CF SAE 5W-40
Eurol Eurol Turbo DI SAE 5W-40
FL Selenia Selenia Diesel Common Rail Generation SAE 5W-40
FL Selenia Selenia Benzina Multi Valves Generation SAE 5W-40
FL Selenia Aktual Fully Synth SAE 5W-40
FL Selenia Selenia K SAE 5W-40
FL Selenia Selenia WRSAE 5W-40
Fuchs Fuchs TITAN SupersynSAE 5W-30
Fuchs Fuchs TITAN SupersynSAE 5W-40
Fuchs TITAN Formel MC SAE 5W-40
Fuchs TITAN Supersyn LONGLIFE SAE 5W-30
Galp energia Galp Energy Plus SAE 5W-40
Galp energia Galp Energy SP SAE 5W-40
Galp energia Galp Energy Ultra LS SAE 5W-40
Galp energia Galp Formula 1 Plus SAE 5W-40
Galp energia Galp Formula 505 SAE 5W-40
Galp energia Galp Formula TD Plus SAE 5W-40
Galp energia Galp Formula XLD SAE 5W-40
GinouvesYork 848 SAE 5W-40
Gulf Gulf Formula GX SAE 5W-30
Gulf Oil Gulf Formula G SAE 5W-30
Gulf Oil Gulf Formula G SAE 5W-40
Hunold Eurolub Cleantec SAE 5W-30
Igol Igol Symbol Ceramic SAE 5W-40
Igol Process Compact M SAE 5W-30
INA INA Futura MB SAE 5W-30
Iranol Iranol 30,000 SAE 5W-40
Kendall Motor Oil Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 5W-40
Kuttenkeuler Motorenöl S-Tronic SAE 5W-40
Kuwait Petroleum Q8 Formula Excel SAE 5W-40
Liqui Moly Liqui Moly TopTec 4100 SAE 5W-40
Liqui MolyLiqui Moly Pro-Engine M 300 SAE 5W-30
Liqui MolyLiqui Moly Leichtlauf Special LL SAE 5W-30
Longpan Petrochemical Sonic 9000 SAE 5W-40
Lotos Lotos Economic SAE 5W-30
Lotos Lotos Syntetic SL/SJ/CF/CD SAE 5W-40
Lotos Lotos Traffic SAE 5W-40
Lotos Lotos Traffic Turbodiesel CF SAE 5W-40
Lotos Lotos Economic SL/CF SAE 5W-30
Lotos Lotos Traffic Thermal Control SL/CF SAE 5W-40
Lotos Lotos Traffic Diesel 505.01 SAE 5W-40
Lukoil Lukoil-Synthetic SAE 5W-40
Meguin Motorenoel Low Emission SAE 5W-40
Meguin Motorenoel Ultra Performance Longlife SAE 5W-40
Meguin Olympia Pro-Tech Fully Synthetic Engine Oil SAE 5W-40
Meguin megol Motorenoil Quality SAE 5W-30
Meguin megol Motorenoel Ultra Performance Longlife SAE 5W-40
Mobil Mobil Special X SAE 5W-40
Mobil Mobil Syst S ESP SAE 5W-30
Mobil Mobil 1 SAE 5W-40
Mobil Mobil Synt S SAE 5W-40
Mobil Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
MobilMobil 1 Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-40
MobilMobil 1 Turbo Diesel SAE 5W-40
MobilMobil 1 Arctic SAE 0W-40
MobilMobil Synt S Turbo DieselSAE 5W-40
MobilTecar 50501SAE 5W-30
MobilMobil Special X SAE 5W-40
MobilMobil 1 Formula C SAE 0W-40
MOL MOL Dynamic Gold SAE 5W-30
Motul Motul 8100 X-cess SAE 5W-40
Motul Motul H-Tech Multi Standard SAE 5W-40
Motul Motul Specific 505 01 SAE 5W-40
Motul Motul Synergie SAE 5W-40
Motul Motul 8100 X-clean SAE 5W-40
Motul Motul 8100 X-max SAE 5W-30
MRD Motor Gold Supertec SAE 5W-40
Neste Oil Neste City ProSAE 5W-40
Nocc Valar Gema XLL 053 SAE 5W-30
Northland Synergy Synthetic EuroSyn SAE 5W-40
Oest Oest ETA Synthetik SAE 5W-40
Ölwerke Julius
Schindler Econo Veritas XL-HC SAE 5W-40
Ölwerke Julius
Schindler OJS Econo-Veritas XL-HC SAE 5W-40
Ölwerke Julius
Schindler OJS Engine Oil SAE 5W-40
OMV OMV BIXXOL special G SAE 5W-30
OMV OMV syn com SAE 5W-40
OMV OMV BIXXOL premium SAE 5W-40
OMV OMV BIXXOL premium Diesel SAE 5W-40
OMV OMV BIXXOL extra SAE 5W-40
Orlen Oil Plantinum Synthetic SM/SL/CF SAE 5W-40
Orlen Oil PLATINUM MAXENERGY EURO4 SAE 5W-30
Orlen Oil Star Synt SAE 5W-40
Panolin Panolin Indy SV SAE 5W-40
Paramo Mogul Racing Pro SAE 5W-40
Pennzoil Pennzoil Platinum European Formula SAE 5W-40
Pennzoil Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Pennzoil Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula SAE 5W-40
Pennzoil Pennzoil Platinum European Ultra Diesel SAE 5W-30
Pentosin Pento High PerformanceSAE 5W-40
Petro China Kunlun HTPC SAE 5W-40
Petro China KUNLUN Tianrun SAE 5W-40
Petrol Ofisi PO Maxima SAE 5W-40
Petrol Ofisi PO Maxima Diesel SAE 5W-40
Petronas Petronas Syntium 3000 SAE 5W-40
Petronas Petronas Syntium 3000 LL SAE 5W-30
Poweroil High-Tech-
Schmierstoffe High-Tech-Schmierstoffe vollsynth. SAE 0W-40
Prista Oil Prista Ultra SAE 5W-40
Profi-Tech Profi-Car Synth Tech XT SAE 5W-40
Quaker State Q European EngineSAE 5W-40
Quaker State Q European Engine Ultra SAE 5W-30
Quaker State Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula SAE 5W-40
Quantum Quantum PD Diesel SAE 5W-40
Rafinerija Modrica Galax RacingSAE 5W-40
Ravensberger
Schmierstoffvertrieb Ravenol VSI SAE 5W-40
Ravensberger
Schmierstoffvertrieb Ravenol Hydrocrack Synth. HCS SAE 5W-40
Repsol Repsol Elaion Full Performance SM SAE 5W-40
Repsol Repsol Elite Cosmos SAE 0W-40
Repsol Repsol Elite Evolution SAE 5W-40
Repsol Repsol Elite Competicion SAE 5W-40
Rothen Oil Rothen Extrasynth SAE 5W-30
Rowe Rowe Synt PD SAE 5W-40
SCT Mannol Extreme SAE 5W-40
Seventy-Six Lubricants76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 5W-40
Shanghai Tempo Tempo 8000-1A SAE 5W-40
Shell Formula Shell Ultra AB SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Plus SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Plus SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Plus S SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Plus S SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Premium SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Plus VA SAE 5W-40
Shell Q Diesel Plus SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix DieselUltra SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Ultra SAE 0W-40
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Ultra SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Ultra SAE 0W-40
Shell Shell Helix Ultec SAE 0W-40
Shell Shell Helix Ultra SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Ultra SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Ultra SAE 5W-30
Shell PKW Motorenöl SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix PlusSAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Plus SAE 5W-40
Shell Vapsoil 502 00 SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Plus S SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Ultra AM SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Ultra SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Ultra AM SAE 5W-40
Shell Vapsoil 503 01 SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Diesel Ultra VA SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Ultra AX SAE 5W-30
Shell Q European Engine Ultra Diesel SAE 5W-30
Shell Shell Helix Plus SM SAE 5W-40
Shell Shell Helix Plus SM SAE 5W-30
Sinopec Polar Star SAE 5W-40
Sinopec Polar Star II SAE 5W-40
Slovnaft Madit Ultra SAE 5W-30
S-Oil Corporation SSU EURO XT SAE 5W-40
S-Oil Corporation SSU EURO XT SAE 5W-30
Sonol Sonol Synt 502.00 SAE 5W-40
SRS Schmierstoff
Vertrieb Wintershall VIVA 1 longlife SAE 5W-30
SRS Schmierstoff
VertriebWintershall Primalub topsynth SAE 5W-40
SRS Schmierstoff
VertriebWintershall ViVA 1 topsynth SAE 5W-40
SRS Schmierstoff
VertriebWintershall ViVA 1 topsynth alpha LA SAE 5W-30
Statoil Statoil LazerWay SAE 5W-40
Statoil Statoil LazerWay C SAE 5W-40
Statoil Statoil Pro Synthetic SAE 5W-40
Statoil Statoil LazerWay TDI SAE 5W-40
Statoil Statoil PRO Synthetic SAE 5W-40
SWD Concep-Tech HDC SAE 5W-40
SWD swd Primus HDC SAE 5W-40
SWD GECCO Motorenöl HC SAE 5W-40
TACTI Corporation CASTLE EUARO 502 SAE 5W-40
TACTI Corporation Castle Euaro 502 SAE 5W-40
Tamoil Tamoil SINT FUTURE RACING SAE 5W-40
Texaco Havoline Ultra SAE 5W-40
TNK Lubricant LLC TNK Ultra SAE 5W-40
TNK Lubricant LLC TNK Magnum SyntheticSAE 5W-40
Unil Opal Opaljet 24 S SAE 5W-40
United Oil United 1 Fully Synthetic SAE 5W-40
Valvoline Valvoline SynPower MXL SAE 5W-30
Valvoline Valvoline DuraBlend MXLSAE 5W-40
Valvoline Synpower MST SAE 5W-30
VAPS VAPSOIL 505 01 SAE 5W-40
Vial Oil Consol Ultima SAE 5W-40
Volkswagen Mexico Audi, Seat, VW Aceite para Motor a Gasoline VW 502
00 100% Sintético SAE 5W-40
Volkswagen Original
Teile ® Volkswagen Special plus SAE 5W-40
Weco Weco TXI Syntolube SAE 5W-40
Westfalen AG Westfalen Megatron SAE 5W-40
Wolf Wolf Masterlube Synflow DC SAE 5W-40
Yacco Yacco VX 1000 SAE 5W-40
Yacco Yacco VX 600SAE 5W-40
Yacco Yacco VX 1703 FAP SAE 5W-40
YPF YPF Elaion Full Performance SM SAE 5W-40
Zeller+Gmelin Divinol Syntholight SAE 5W-40
Zeller+Gmelin Divinol Syntholight SAE 0W-40
 
JCB thanks mate. It seems there is lots of info that varies, Who do i believe?

Mine has ran fine and the oil temp never rises much above normal, even on a blast. If it turns out i ran the wring oil and lkilled it, i am sure it will open my eyes etc. And it will have been an expensive lesson learnt
 
Lol, Jcb.

130 degree oil temperature on even a stock Audi S2 are not uncommon on sustained high rpm.

Mine was 426 PS, and had an 8,200 rpm limit.
On a hot summer day, it could rise to 130 degrees easily.

I believe there was a debate not too long ago, on B5 oil temps, both S4 and non-S models, and some members on here have seen 120 degrees, even on bone stock cars.
 
Some more info here - http://homepage.ntlworld.com/h5djr/elsawin/VW oils.pdf

[VW 503.00
This is a relatively new oil specification for petrol engines with variable service intervals. It includes the AUDI S4, but
not the RS4, or the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp.
Viscosity rating: SAE 0w -30]

[ VW 503.01
A new oil specification specifically for the RS4, and the TT and S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp, Passat W8 and
Phaeton W12.
Viscosity rating: 0w -30]
 
My oil temp barley changed from operating temp when being pushed.

I think i iwll invest in an oil cooler when i can find one used for good money etc etc
 
I had a quick play today and fired the car up, and she smoked like a good en. The turbo is pushing oil into the intake and some has made it into the engine.I also removed the TIP and she pumps oil out of there too

Whats the best way to flush my FMIC?

The piping i will bring into the hostel and rinse them in the sink etc as the boiler gets very hot and with a touch of washing up liquid i can de grease the pipes easily
 
audi upgrades
The best way to flush out your intercooler is with brake cleaner.

I had similar issues with a BMW 330 D, I tried using diesel, but diesel's slightly oily too, so required several flushes.

Last car I had to flush after turbo replacement, was a Volvo Wentworth. I used brake cleaner, and it worked a treat. I bought 5 litres though, and just kept pouring it into one end. Cocered both ends, and swilled it round, moving the intercooler rapidly from side to side, and poured out, repeated, then left to dry.

Diesel's obviously cheaper, but required more patience.
 
thanks, i was thinking gunk, with a swill and then a pressure washer to flush and then dry etc.

So close either way, lol:uhm:
 
Byzan, can you try removing the turbo from the engine completely, and seeing if it smokes without it on there?

You should be able to have the engine running without the turbo pipework/intercooler etc in the loop (might require you to disconnect the airflow meter though)

Only issue would be blocking the turbo oil feed while you do that to test it, but it would let you see if the engine itself is actually ok, or if some of the smoke is coming from it rather than just oil sucked thru the inlet...
 
Id use the gunk to get it out of there mate... degressed my whole engine when it was out in 10 mins. Pressure was the gunk out then leave to drip dry on its end. If there is any water in there after refit then it will either evaporate or be burnt in the engine.

Using solvents and the such like which could be left in the IC could well damage the engine.

P.s ill get both the oil lines for you just incase.
 
I am gonna go gunk and pressure wash.

I have ripped my TIP off to look at it, the chunk that is missing from the turbo inlet has a corresponding split in the TIP, i recon i can trim it out so all good.
The pancake valve has melted so doesnt work at all

Not sure on the N75, any easy way to test off the car? i can blow through the 2 shorter tubes but not the long TIP one. GGGRRRR more ****** money
 
N75 should block flow thru in one direction until power is applied then it should change, not sure if yours is the right way round though, but when off, the turbo should see all the boost. So with no power the pipe that would normally go to the turbo and the pipe from the inlet should flow normally, and the one to atmosphere should be closed.
 
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