Help My Alarm keeps going off

MgQuattro

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Hi Folks..... Please HELP.
I have an A4 B6 2003 avant and my alarm has started to continually sound, although its stopped at the moment.
It doesn't seem to matter wheather the car is locked or not. It even sounds when the engine is running. I have also noticed that when I lock the car the the led on the door flashes for approx 7 times and then stays lit for a few minutes. It does eventally start flashing normally every second .
I tried switching off the interior ultrasound and tilt sensor to no avail.
I carried out a VAG scan and found this:

Address 46: Central Conv.
Controller: 8E0 959 433 BC
Component: Komfortgerát T3B 1110
Coding: 07147
Shop #: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications

Any Ideas what all this means?......Please

Mike
 
OK Alarm still going off today although I did notice that the lights wern't flashing . The car could be opened and started whilst the alarm was still sounding. I carried out a test to see if the alarm was still working and it was, with lights etc all flashing so sounder is NOT an alarm trigger.

Have pulled the sounder out of the car and all is quite......Does anyone know how to check this unit as I can't see a way into it. It does contain NI-NH's inside

Thanks

Mike
 
Check the convenience module under the flooor at the passenger side of your car as water can sometimes get in when the drain in the bulkhead blocks up and plays havoc with the electrics including the alarm
 
Thanks A44NI
Will have a look in the morning. How do I get at it, do I have to remove the seat or can I get access by just pushing the seat back ?

Would I not expect to see more fault codes with Vagcom ?

Thanks

Mike
 
I'd be more inclined to suspect the alarm sounder itself.
They do contain backup cells (to power sounder in event primary vehicle battery is disconnected). Not heard of the cells failing causing other anomolies with the unit, but I'd start investigations there.

It could be a number of electrical items, but most of the comfort features are shared and would "usually" display more symptoms such as window or door control issues.

I'd start at the sounder and work back.
 
It does sound like the battery in the alarm unit itself. A common symptom of this is small random beeps coming from the back of the car .

Search through the A3 section, there loads of info about these, including a section of how to modify and change the battery backup yourself


Simon
 
Thanks for the info Guys.
I've ordered a new sounder from audi. I decided as it is part of the integral security on the car not to mess with it. Can't really afford the time to mess with it. I will dismantle the old unit when I get it out to see what is going on. I can't believe that there is no aftermarket replacement for these units or alternative source. An opening in the market for someone perhaps......

Will let you know how I get on

Mike
 
Mike, given that you'll be messing with the loom to connect in the new one, could you cast an eye over it - I'd assumed it in past to be a dumb slave siren with inbuilt battery backup - though the vag errors you reports suggest it may have a bi directional link to the rest of the electronics.

I'd be keen to know more of the module once you have it out of the car...

Oh and should I ask ... how much was the new unit you're ordered?
 
Hi Sprocket,
New unit cost £81.36 inc. from audi dealer. Sounder has 3 wires.
1. Earth
2. Connected to convenience unit, Trigger wire ..I think
3. Connected to convenience unit, Power Supply via fuse 38 I think....

The Vag com errors could be a simple electrical termination detection. Will know more on friday I hope. I also wasnt to see if it can be made louder

Mike
 
Thanks A44NI
Will have a look in the morning. How do I get at it, do I have to remove the seat or can I get access by just pushing the seat back ?

Would I not expect to see more fault codes with Vagcom ?

Thanks

Mike

You have to put the seat back, remove the trim panel along the sill and pull the carpet up from there. I find it easier if I take out the two bolts at the front of the seat.

I had this problem and Vagcom was only showing a fault with an internal proximity sensor when the problem actually lay with the module.
 
Well here's a wee update.
Collected new sounder on Friday, Audi have changed the design to a new slim line unit, which has a larger mounting bolt. Drilled out the original bracket to accept this larger bolt and fitted it in the same place as the old unit .
Reset all fault codes and ran the car for a few minutes to charge up the Ni-Cd's, then rechecked car. All clear. I then deliberately set the alarm off to check the system fully and rechecked the system again. No faults found. Great. Seems like the initial fault was confined to the sounder......Success.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

Mike

P.S checked out the control unit under passanger seat, Everything was bone dry....But ...What a daft place to put an ECU ????

Thanks For your advice Guys......
 
Seems like the initial fault was confined to the sounder
What we said 5 days ago ...

This was a common problem on the B5s when they were a few years old - seems the same problem will affect the B6s and B7s too.
 
Thanks Dave
Lets hope the newer designed unit will last a bit better. When I disected my old unit it was exactly as described in the How To write-up. But it might be possible to repace the batteries with different laptop batteries instead....will see..

Mike
 
i am having the same problem with mine. i had to replace the main battery over the weekend but after i had finished the job the same fault occurred. every time i lock the car about an hour after the beeper alarm goes off, and won't stop unless i unlock the car.

is it likely to be the sounder unit and where is the sounder unit?
 
How the siren works..... (location in boot rear right corner under side upholstered cover.)
The alarm uses three wires - 0v, 12v and communication wire.
The communication wire is not like conventionally non-intelligent battery backed sirens where you trigger the siren on the 3rd wire with simple voltage level. If this was the case, by removing all 3 wires the siren would sound with the internal batteries! I believe the siren is signaled by the convenience module on the state of the internal alarm - i.e. Alarm On or Alarm Off. If the car battery is removed whilst the Alarm is On - then the siren has the intelligence to sound the siren beep beep beep for 30 secs. recycle, check car supply and resound another 30 secs. indefinitely. If the convenience module senses an intrusion it will tell the siren to sound. However, if you remove the car battery whilst the Alarm is Off, it will not sound. Old systems (VW Passat ~ Yr 1998- had an override key to be used if battery supply was removed.)

If the internal batteries fail, you may get strange beeping noises from rear of car at engine start. You may get other unexplained false alarms etc.. VAG-COM should identify if the alarm system has been triggered by an external sensor - or as listed on this thread the alarm unit should be identified as the culprit.
 
The standard Audi B6 Siren (2001+) suffers from internal batteries becoming flat / leaking and they are not user replaceable requiring a new siren at a cost of at least £85+. The internal batteries are 2x large button cell type: "N3H 3.6v 160mAh", and are no longer made by the OEM in Germany. There are no same size equivalents!

My solution shows how to modify the current siren unit to accomodate 6x "AA" size Ni-MH 1.2v 2000mAh batteries.

1. & 2. The siren unit removed from the car - in the saloon on an A4/B6 it is located at right rear corner in boot behind upholstered internal cover (pic.14). Carefully cut the siren unit open along the welded seam with a mini-hacksaw.
3. Shows Siren in two halves
Siren-1.jpg



4. Label the existing terminals with a marker pen - avoids incorrect connection of new batteries, later on.
5. The "old" batteries are held in the lid by a two cell holder. Pull this welded plastic holder out with a pair of pliers and discard.
6. The new components obtained from Maplins are:
  • 6x Ni-MH "AA" cells 1.2v / 2000mAh
  • 1x 6-AA cell battery holder
  • 1x ABS Box
  • 1x PP3 style battery clip
Siren-2.jpg



7. & 8. Bolt "new" battery box to siren lid. I used 4x M4 screws / nuts / washers. I also used bathroom silicon sealant between the two plastic boxes, although this unit should not get wet.

Siren-3.jpg



9. Shows battery clip in "new" battery compartment through small hole drilled between the centre two fixing bolts.
10. Shows other end of battery clip wires soldered to siren unit battery terminals. (Old Spring contacts were cut off with side cutters)

Siren-4.jpg



11. New batteries mounted in battery cell holder and small piece of cardboard used as packing to prevent battery movement.
12. "New" battery compartment with lid fixed with M4 security screws for added security.

Siren-5.jpg



13. For test purposes I taped the two halves together and tested in car. Once I was happy all was working after "testing" -see below, I glued the two halves back together with Araldite Epoxy Resin Glue.
14. The modified siren back in the car - you may need to very slightly bend the mounting arm.

Siren-6.jpg



Testing:


a. Mount and reconnect the siren in the car
b. Leave the siren connected in the car for ~24 hours - this ensures the new batteries are fully charged. (You could always pre-charge them if you have a suitable charger for the AA cells.)
c. Arm your car alarm - with your windows open - leave the system for a few minutes - move your arms inside the car to activate the Ultrasonic interior sensor - Alarm should sound. Disarm the alarm - siren should stop. Close the windows.
d. Pop the bonnet - Arm the alarm - after a couple of minutes disconnect the -ve side of the car battery. Within 5 seconds the siren should sound for ~30 secs. and re-arm itself - if the battery is still disconnected it will sound for ~30secs again, and so on. Reconnect the battery and the Siren should cease.

If the batteries should fail in the future you can easily replace them for standard AA rechargeable ones.
NOTE: The batteries used here are significantly higher in capacity, 160mAh "old" vs 2000mAh "new" so should offer better backup performance for much longer if necessary ~12x longer.

That's it all done.
:yahoo:
 
thanks for the above mate. do you know the dimensions of the abs box you used? i'm just ordering everything with maplin at the moment :)

Just measured a spare AA battery I have on my desk and I reckon the box was Maplin LH21X @ £3.29
Box dimensions: Internal 97 x 73 x 39 mm, External 100 x 76 x41 mm
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1676

Other parts for reference.....

Batteries: 6x 1.2V Ni-MH "AA" Cells: Maplin N04BW (Pack of 4) requires 2 packs @ £7.99 each
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=45787

Battery Holder: AA x 6, Maplin HQ01B @ £0.89
Dimensions: 58 x 44 x 28mm .....above box will accomodate this.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=31427

Battery Connector: Maplin NE19V @ £0.59
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=31743

Parts Total: £20.75 + P&P (with 2 spare batteries left over!)
excluding optional security screws, bathroom sealant & Araldite.
 
thanks mate.

just been out to the car this morning and the brand new battery is flat as a pancake!!! aaaarrrggghhhh! wtf is going on!?!?!

could this mean my convenience module is knackered?

when the alarm was going off i unlocked the car and left it unlocked so the alarm system hasn't been activated and i don't have automatic locking so there shouldn't be a drain from that
 
right, just took up the carpet and opened up the ccu box and my unit is a 8E0 959 433 AB

i think it is my ccu. the engine is now running but the when the door is open the interior light turns itself on & off and there is a shorting sound from the ccu.

i have found a 8E0 959 433 'CD' unit for €70, is this a later compatible unit?
 
CCU is faulty mate for sure, stick to the exact same part number or expect other weird effects from different software and options in the replacement CCU...
 
CCU is faulty mate for sure, stick to the exact same part number or expect other weird effects from different software and options in the replacement CCU...

finally got a replacement CCU, new part number 8E0 959 433 AJ is the latest one as quoted by Beechwood Audi, and had it fitted but now when the rear doors are opened the dis shows the door is open but the display flashes opened/closed until the door is shut and the interior lights don't activate when rear doors are opened either :keule:

is this a coding issue or is the replacement CCU knackered too. got it from an audi specialist who claims it was tested before despatching and the unit was not faulty??????

somebody please help otherwise i'm gonna torch the ******* thing! :sob: :laugh:
 
I think that means the ccu you have gotten isnt 100% compatible with your cars equipment. You need the exact same one even down to the revision letters to guarantee exact replacement mate.
 
I think that means the ccu you have gotten isnt 100% compatible with your cars equipment. You need the exact same one even down to the revision letters to guarantee exact replacement mate.

audi don't make the exact part number anymore, it has been superceeded by new one i have bought.

old part number: 8E0 959 433 AB
new part number: 8E0 959 433 AJ

i was quoted the new number by stealership who checked it against my chassis number

i think i'm gonna have to fork out for a stealership part, £188 + vat :crying:
 
I am having the same thing... I know that this isn't a cure, but I have found that the beeping stops when you unlock the car, but it will start again soon afterwards, whereas if you use the keyfob to release the boot latch, the beeping doesn't happen any more - not sure why this would be but it seems to work. I wouldn't do it if the boot flung open, but as it just sits there and looks shut, I don't mind doing that overnight on the drive, or in the car park outside the office. Just thought it was worth a mention as a temporary measure when the beeping starts to DRIVE YOU MAD or as in my case, keeps waking up the baby!! :)
 
sounds like the same problem as i had.

the reason the alarm stops when you only open the boot via the key fob is because the alarm temporarily switches off when only the boot is unlocked.
it will then arm again when the boot is closed.
when you push the boot closed watch the indicators, as soon as the the boot catch locks the indicators should flash to tell you that the alarm is active again.