A3 quattro running "326bhp" help

JsAudi said:
Yeah that was my intention after Christmas. Being based in the north of Scotland has it's disadvantages. There is a place in kirkcaldy that deals with tuning audis. Thankfully they do things properly as oppoed to generic flashes. But judging by the figures already on the dyno sheet I would say it was running alright at the time. Although I think it could be improved a bit. There's a few things that have jus rung alarm bells with it now after doing some digging and having a proper look over the car. That sensor being 1, no recirc valve being fitted and that ****** popping and banging thing he put on the map. Now possibly a new clutch in the future and it did develop a misfire but I got a hold of new second hand coil packs and that seems to have sorted that.
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I'm based Inverness mate if your stuck for vcds I can help out.,
 
JsAudi said:
I usually use momentum.
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Cool the reason I mentioned it, is because I essentially broke my S3 the first day I bought it because I put 95 unleaded in it, and a spark plug burnt in half and killed a coil.

you can run a free version of VCDS with a £5 KKL lead from ebay. (can do quite a bit with it but not everything)

you can run ME7Logger for free to check running values (with a good support network)

you can run tunerpro (with a plugin for checksum) and MPPS for free to look at your existing map details.
 
Stuart B said:
Cool the reason I mentioned it, is because I essentially broke my S3 the first day I bought it because I put 95 unleaded in it, and a spark plug burnt in half and killed a coil.

you can run a free version of VCDS with a £5 KKL lead from ebay. (can do quite a bit with it but not everything)

you can run ME7Logger for free to check running values (with a good support network)

you can run tunerpro (with a plugin for checksum) and MPPS for free to look at your existing map details.
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I have always used momentum or vpower. In all my cars. High strung Hondas don' like poverty fuel. Lol. And with this thing being tuned it would always be safer to run super juice.

Cool I will have a look into them. What software do people use for mapping audis anyway?
 
JsAudi said:
What software do people use for mapping audis anyway?
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WinOLS is what the pro's use but its expensive... Tuner Pro for most hobbyists but be aware ME7 mapping is not for the faint hearted... you will also need something to read and flash files... I use Galletto but Nef Moto works fairly well too... most tuning software prefers win7 or earlier... I have just bought a cheap (60 quid) Dell Netbook running Win7 for flashing and logging as my Win10 laptop no longer wants to play the game...

For Tuner Pro you will need to find the right XDF file for your ECU... there are a few about for narrow band ME7's but not all align correctly...

For narrowband tuning you will NEED a wideband lambda gauge of some description... narrow band ECU's are blind to AFR on WOT so you will need one to tune the fueling safely

Have a read of https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning

...go from there

<tuffty/>
 
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I just had a read from that link tuffty put up. That just confussed me. I think id leave any thing like that to an expert. I take it that you tuffty and stuartB must be I T people in ur jobs to do that kind of stuff.
 
lol.. I am no expert at any of this at all - it's just a game with an old car on its last legs. just fumbling along - but now too scared to put my foot down as the boost feels too high too quickly and the engine is a wreck with standard internals. it was always my plan to muck around for a bit. but I did look at lots of nefmoto 1.8T maps and my Stage 1 and a standard BAM and parts of a BFV? (the Audi 240PS TT map)

but yeah an IT background but you don't need an IT background to plug in an ODB2 plug - unlike the Audurino camera drip type of projects Tuffty has been doing, I haven't worked on any hardware interaction apart from modems and telxons and at BAe when an apprentice in the 80s. someone else has done the hard work for the ECU mapping I have played with, with leads and tools. <-- it has been a laugh, but I have all my tools on the floor behind me (just in case) :)
 
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hydro s3 said:
I just had a read from that link tuffty put up. That just confussed me. I think id leave any thing like that to an expert. I take it that you tuffty and stuartB must be I T people in ur jobs to do that kind of stuff.
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Me no I'm new too the audi game. I jus like to know what people use. Jus so I can research what people use. I have always been on the jap side of things mostly with Hondas. But I don't know the first thing really about turbo'd audis. As far as the mechanics thing yeah I can fix them just the tuning side of things with a new brand, turbo's and different faults and issues I need to learn how too fix.
 
I cant get ME7Logger working properly - so might dig out my wife's old dell netbook to see if Tuffty's point about Win10 laptops struggling helps.

I can then chuck the netbook behind the seat to help with when the indicators keep failing.
 
So guys after about 6 months of owning the car the turbo gave up the ghost a month or 2 ago. Finally got round to having a look at it. I ended up pulling the whole engine out because

1 I wanted to see how hard it was

2 I wanted to check the quality of the build from the previous owner.

3 the clutch is slipping.

Needless to say I think the guy literally just threw it back together. Several loose bolts and 1 bolt cross threaded on the manifold to turbo, a broken gasket, another mystery resistor and a bolt jammed in the turbo to try blank something off. Which fell out after I took the turbo off.
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As you can see the resistor is in a plug tucked down behind the coolant bottle. Any ideas?

As you can see in 1 of the pictures the bolt that was jammed in the port for the turbo. What exactly is the port for and what should be there instead of a bolt.

There is a bit of shaft play in the turbo so I'm putting it down to poor workmanship as the reason of failure.

My plan now is to rebuild the turbo using a new cartridge from here out in a new clutch and take it to get mapped again.

https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webs...-Blade-K04020-K04022-K04023-Turbocharger.html

Has anyone got any experience with using these or should I just get a new standard k04 turbo?


Cheers
 
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Resistor appears to be in the plug for the carbon canister - guessing the can itself was removed from the bay and the previous owner has rammed that in there to stop a fault code lighting up.

Wheel bolt is in the EGT boss. Being an A3 I don't think the car would have originally had an EGT sensor, so when the k04 was fitted they've just blanked off the hole. Although nothing massively wrong with that in principle (many of them didn't run EGT probes from factory, although nice to have when tuning) the execution is terrible.

Was that turbo being used as a turbo, or an oil pump?! Looks like the latter! If the housings are in good shape then dropping in a new CHRA is a decent option. I've used TurboRebuild for parts before and they've always been decent enough, though it'd be worth noting that Bill @badger5 also stocks these so probably worth getting in touch with him to pick one up.
 
Yeah there was a fair amount of oil that came out of it.
And thanks for clearing up the resistor and the wheel bolt.
 
Before you buy any parts for that turbo, be aware that it looks like it may be some kind of hybrid so something designed to replace parts on a standard k04 may not work if the housings have been machined or whatever.
 
warby80 said:
Before you buy any parts for that turbo, be aware that it looks like it may be some kind of hybrid so something designed to replace parts on a standard k04 may not work if the housings have been machined or whatever.
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Cheers I think I will strip it down and have a look first. I did notice it has a creation motorsport velocity stack??mounted on the the inlet side.
 
Yes the alloy adaptors are sometimes used to link up with silicone inlet pipes on both hybrid and normal turbo's. What make is the inlet pipe?

The reason i think it is not a standard K04 is the compressor wheel is definitely not a normal K04 jobby, worth measuring the wheels and seeing whats what.
 
The TIP is either forge or creation I can't remember. I managed to get in touch with the guy that had before and it is that cartridge I linked in earlier. The car was mapped in ddg is Rochdale so I'm going to give them a call tomorrow.
 
TIP and the alloy billet adaptor will either be a genuine Badger5 TIP or the creation copy of it... its there to fit the large 80mm TIP to the end of the turbo (any K04)..

Compressor is not std on that turbo and the turbine has been clipped... looks like a generic billet 11 blade comp wheel...

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Compressor is not std on that turbo and the turbine has been clipped... looks like a generic billet 11 blade comp wheel...

<tuffty/>
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The cartridge was bought from the place I linked earlier. What do you mean the turbine has been clipped?
Sorry love know the very basics about boost. It was never something I spent a lot of time researching. So I'm still a bit of a noob with all this. All my experience has been with high revving "torque-less" Hondas lol. So I may ask stupid questions.
 
Has anyone on hear had much experience with DDG in Rochdale? I had a look at their website and there' not much to it.
 
JsAudi said:
The cartridge was bought from the place I linked earlier. What do you mean the turbine has been clipped?
Sorry love know the very basics about boost. It was never something I spent a lot of time researching. So I'm still a bit of a noob with all this. All my experience has been with high revving "torque-less" Hondas lol. So I may ask stupid questions.
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lol... not going to get much torque from that turbo lol...

turbine clipping is a way to increase the flow through the turbo... can be effective if done right but can also introduce a little lag if not...

Basically you machine off a little off the exducer of the turbine wheel and it opens the gap between the blades allowing the gas to flow more freely

<tuffty/>
 
Never heard of DDG, But if you are in that part of the world Rick at Unicorn Motor Developments in Stockport is very good with these engines and is a forum sponsor, plus he has mapped many peoples engines on here including my own in my TT.
https://www.facebook.com/UnicornMotorDevelopments
 
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<tuffty/> said:
lol... not going to get much torque from that turbo lol...

turbine clipping is a way to increase the flow through the turbo... can be effective if done right but can also introduce a little lag if not...

Basically you machine off a little off the exducer of the turbine wheel and it opens the gap between the blades allowing the gas to flow more freely

<tuffty/>
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Ahh I see. I was thinking that you saw some damage that I couldn't. Well at least I know that I can just get the same bits and it should be relatively plug and play.
My only worry now is getting the car up and running and the same thing happening again.
Is there anything I should be aware of or should check before putting it back together?
The car seemed to run ok an there was no faults coming up with it before the turbo went on it.
 
desertstorm said:
Never heard of DDG, But if you are in that part of the world Rick at Unicorn Motor Developments in Stockport is very good with these engines and is a forum sponsor, plus he has mapped many peoples engines on here including my own in my TT.
https://www.facebook.com/UnicornMotorDevelopments
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Cheers for that. I'm up in the north of Scotland. I was planning on using star performance. But if I can find somewhere that used the same software that DDG used then I may go there to save having to get a full remap done and just get the original 1 tweaked. I would need to work out the cost though. The funny thing is I was looking through the folder and found some old dyno sheets from when it had a k03s hybrid fitted and it was producing more torque than this k04. I' getting the feeling that there's something not quite right with it.
 
I know it was mentioned earlier in the thread but i cant see a mention of if the engine is still running standard rods? It may be the case that the torque was kept lower to protect the rods, which can be a bit of a lottery with even just a map.
 
Well a wee update to this. The new chra has been ordered along with new gaskets, oil return pipe, genuine audi oil filter and a new clutch and flywheel from cg motorsport. Next step once the parts arrive is get it back together then in for an mot towards the end of the month. Then off to get it remapped somewhere. Not sure where yet though. I was considering star performance in kirkcaldy. But my travel a wee bit further afield if I need to.

Is there anything else I should be aware of/should get for the car?
 
What CHRA did you order? a std one or a replacement hybrid?

Not sure if they do any machining on the coldside housing to accommodate that billet compressor wheel... if they do and you have a std CHRA then it may not work very well

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
What CHRA did you order? a std one or a replacement hybrid?

Not sure if they do any machining on the coldside housing to accommodate that billet compressor wheel... if they do and you have a std CHRA then it may not work very well

<tuffty/>
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I just reordered what was oriinally fitted. So the uprated 1. I can get pics of it all once I strip it down. If any of you guys want to have a look.
 
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  1. Right so it's been a couple of weeks since I have updated this. Been in the process of sourcing all the parts I need. I now
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    have the engine back in. Stripped and rebuilt the turbo with the new chra from turbo rebuild. On removing I did notice a wee bit of damage to the veins. A slight buckling. New clutch and flywheel from cg motorsport. New surefire coil packs and plates from creation. Stripped and rebuilt the diverter valve I bought for it. New timing belt and water pump too. Only thing I'm having an issue with the now is trying to get the oil level sensor plug to reach the sump. But that is a mission for later.
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I must say I'm pleasantly surprised though as to how relatively easy these cars are to work. Its not really been to much of a chore. Had the engine out and box off in a little over 4 hours and that's working off my back too. I have had all the lines off the turbo to clean them and got a new return pipe as the old 1 has quite a nasty kink in it. All that's really left is sort out the oil level sensor, boost pipes, subframe, fluids, front end, brakes, mot and then a trip to rtech for a remap.
 
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So last night's progress was sorting the last couple of bits of wiring for the sensors. Getting the boost pipes on and aligned correct and radiator panel and intercooler now fitted. Aside from the battery think everything is now done up top.
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badger5 said:
why gold tape on the hot charge pipe?
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It was done by the previous owner. I assume it's to try and help reduce engine bay temps. Don't know how effective it would be though. it doesn't bother me much that I feel the need to remove it. Hoping to have it running again by the weekend.
 
JsAudi said:
It was done by the previous owner. I assume it's to try and help reduce engine bay temps. Don't know how effective it would be though. it doesn't bother me much that I feel the need to remove it. Hoping to have it running again by the weekend.
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given its to reflect heat (if actual gold which it is'nt) the hot big, 150'c type hot for example at 22psi k04 boost, its serving no purpose at all vs what someone thought they were trying to achieve..
 
Stuart B said:
When I switched on my pops and bangs (total **** and ruins stuff) it was done by retarding the timing quite heavily at low loads this caused the car to have horrible engine breaking, and you couldn't accelerate slowly. but your lurching sounds more like a misfire. maybe the problems you are experiencing are the ones he was talking about hence no DV.
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Hey do you know much about A3 quottro ?
 
badger5 said:
given its to reflect heat (if actual gold which it is'nt) the hot big, 150'c type hot for example at 22psi k04 boost, its serving no purpose at all vs what someone thought they were trying to achieve..
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Yeah I'm guessing that's why he did it. Who knows unless he did purely for his choice of aesthetics. Think tinfoil would of been a better choice lol. Gold isn't really my colour but it don't really bother me tbh. Catches the eye when u open the bonnet. Ohh shiney bits. Ahh wait it's cheap eBay tape. Haha
 
Well update time I have managed to get the car finished. Had it running on Saturday. Although my oil level sensor light comes on when the car is revved I may have the 2 3 pin plugs mixed up the one that goes on to the back of the gearbox. Also I have a slight oil leak which looks to me like it's coming from between the housings and the chra. I did put sealant on the compressor side before fitting it so either I have missed something or the sealant hasn't held well enough. Either way it looks like I will be pulling the turbo back off. Much to my dismay.
 
Sorry for the length of time it's taken me to update this.
So I have finally got the audi sorted. Went down to see phil @ TRP performance in Walsall to get the car remapped. After speaking to rick at r-tech that's who he recom6mended me to go to after informing me they no longer do the 1.8ts anymore.
So after quite an awful drive down from Inverness taking 13 hours because of accidents, roadworks and someone trying to jump off a bridge onto the m6. Finally made it.

So everything started well all pre checks passed. Put car on the rollers to run it up found the lambda sensor was knackered and plugged in the wrong part of the exhaust Phil couldn't read any fuel tables. Anyway new lambda ordered, fitted and working. Success. Although they were a bit concerned about a slight oil drip coming out the exhaust and the car smoking a wee bit on start up. Which I think is caused by worn stem seals as once the car was running there's no smoke.

But anyway back on the rollers to run the car up couldn't get the car to run stable my air-fuel ratio on idle from previous map was sitting at 17:1 but that was before the lambda sensor was fitted. Bare in mind I have covers 600 miles now since then.

Peak boost was hitting 1.8 bar. So much to their amazement the car even made it down without something going seriously wrong.

But anyway Phil scrubbed the ecu and mapped it from scratch.

What a difference in the car. They previous mapper made a complete mess of mapping the car. They had a huge flat spot at around 2500rpm and the mess they made of the pop and bang according to Phil was outrageous.

Phil fixed everything wrong with the running of the car and needless to say I am absolutely delighted with the car and their level of service and would thoroughly recommend them.

Here's the final print out and the final run on the dyno. Sounds so much better now and runs a dream. The increase in torque is amazing for overtaking.

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