Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

You need to hold it quite firmly but it should just slide back into position with a bit of gentle persuasion. It won't centre until fully home IIRC.
 
thanks steve i am trying..lol..my son works for audi and he said he can get me a new one for 215 as he gets a discount and he will fit it..do you know how much they cost otherwise.
 
I can't remember TBH. I phoned TPS a couple of years back and they were actually dearer than Audi but £175 rings a bell - I think I updated this thread back then.

That was in October or November, I didn't bother and fixed it, when it broke down again I phoned back in the spring and the prices had rocketed. Guy at TPS told me that they adjust the prices according to seasonal demand, if that's true it seems a bit off.

That price doesn't sound too bad but the only trouble with fitting a new motor is that it'll have the same substandard brushes and will no doubt have a limited life.

My car started playing up when it was about 4 or 5 years old, no issues since Vagpro did the brush upgrade, suppose it just depends on how long you intend to keep it?

EDIT : 31/10/14 Audi were looking for £177 + VAT. The prices went up a lot after that so your son's price sounds pretty good.
 
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Hello everyone. Is it just my computer or has all the images on the first post of this thread disappeared. Can only see one picture.

John
 
allenssss said:
hi..ive cleaned the motor but am having trouble putting the sleave back on as the magnets are so strong, i cant get it to centre..any help please
Click to expand...

Hello;

The bearing in the cover has moved out of line on its spherical, use a long similar diameter shaft to line it back up.

Point to note that cleaning is only a short term fix and the correct solution is to replace the brushes or obtain a recon motor (replace new brushes)

Regards
Khurrum
VagPro
 
VagPro said:
Hi all pics should all be restored now. Apologies
Click to expand...

Hi VagPro,
I've got the roof not opening more than 1" problem that points to the motor/pump not working.
Thought I'd have a look myself and went to download some of your pdf's but dropbox says they aren't there anymore.
Any chance you could point me to them?
Thanks in advance
 
Hi John,

Dropbox has killed all the links and I am not allowed to amend the post anymore, there is a video on Youtube, but probably worth noting that the clean is a short term fix as the root causes is cracking brushes.

You need to replace brushes or fit a recon motor (not a new one or the issue will happen again)

Regards
Khurrum
VagPro
 
I have a problem with my hood on my 2007 A4. It will begin to open and then just open 1 inch, I think the roof light in the dashboard then flashes 10 times?

I find if I insert the key and manually close the roof and then turn the key back and forth a few times, and then try again it will sometimes then work - both up and down, no problems.

It's then when I go for a drive with the roof up, it then won't work again next time I try .

I have had the motor out and cleaned the brushes so I think it's a sensor issue, I've had the headlining apart and everything is secured

Would a cheap Amazon odbII reader tell me what the error codes are?

It's as if it starts and errors - but I don't think it's the motors that's the issue more a sensor and this manually locking/unlocking header lock seems to sometimes clear things?

Any ideas please?

Thanks

David
 
Hello David,

Sounds like it could be a switch position issue, the flashing light tells you there is a fault code stored in the controller, however the static codes do to always definitively identify the issue. You would need to loook at the love data in the roof controller. OBD readers would read the engine, transmission and abs, I am pretty certain they won't read roof controllers and particularity the live data.

You will need vcds or equivalent for dealer level interrogation

Where are you based ?

Regards
Khurrum
VagPro


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Hi Khurrum, I'm near Leeds so sadly not just up the road from you, in Leicester.

When I had the hood header apart, I noticed there is a rubber disc that moves that allows the locking mechanism to seat itself, this seemed to have quite a bit of play on it? Is it meant to move or the disc stay still as the latch closes on to it?
 
Also when it does this, it won't then relatch itself. I have to manually do it.
 
So I've had the hood header apart and noticed the rubber "bump stop" washer type thing for the motor "S" latch was worn. Wiggling it around I noticed it's torn on one side.

So took it out altogether and hey presto roof opens as it should.

Seems something is out of line or this rubber washer/bump stop was stopping the sensor realising that the hood latches were fully open.

Any ideas what the part no is for this? Or can I live without it?

YouTube video of it working WITHOUT the rubber washer in place.


Thanks

David
 

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davidmbell said:
So I've had the hood header apart and noticed the rubber "bump stop" washer type thing for the motor "S" latch was worn. Wiggling it around I noticed it's torn on one side.

So took it out altogether and hey presto roof opens as it should.

Seems something is out of line or this rubber washer/bump stop was stopping the sensor realising that the hood latches were fully open.

Any ideas what the part no is for this? Or can I live without it?

YouTube video of it working WITHOUT the rubber washer in place.


Thanks

David
Click to expand...


Hi David

Apologies for delay,madness at the moment with the weather, could be the switches Inside the assembly being intermittent, you moving things around has got them Working.

As they weren't working it's damaged the stops, replace the switch assembly and put loads of insulation tape to build the bump stop back up.

Regards, Khurrum, 07834770567, www.vagpro.co.uk




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Hi Khurrum,
First of all, thank you for putting this up and keeping up on it for the past five years. I have read each post in an effort to gain an understanding to my Audi's problem. I have a 2009 A4 Cabrio with the first fault on your www.vagpro.co.uk web site. When I try to open the top, the windows go down halfway and the top lifts about an inch.
After following your instructions I was able to reach the pump motor. I cleaned the commutator of dark streaks by sanding. I then pried the casing for the brushes slightly open and made sure the brushes were able to move back and forth. I noticed on brush had pitted and only about half of it touched the commutator. I put the motor back and tried to open the roof but same symptoms described above.
I purchased a multimeter and tried to see if any voltage was going to the motor. I have to admit I am not sure I did this correctly. first I stuck two paper clips into the plug, attached alligator clips to the clips then attached the alligator clips to my multimeter prongs. I closed the trunk and had someone start the car and try to open the top. There was no reading. I then took off the casing plugged the motor in attached the alligator clips to the copper wires attached to the brushes. Started the car, tried to open the top, still no reading.
I have not found a vag-com yet but am looking.
Any thoughts on what could be the issue without the vag-com?
 
KYAudiGuy said:
Hi Khurrum,
First of all, thank you for putting this up and keeping up on it for the past five years. I have read each post in an effort to gain an understanding to my Audi's problem. I have a 2009 A4 Cabrio with the first fault on your www.vagpro.co.uk web site. When I try to open the top, the windows go down halfway and the top lifts about an inch.
After following your instructions I was able to reach the pump motor. I cleaned the commutator of dark streaks by sanding. I then pried the casing for the brushes slightly open and made sure the brushes were able to move back and forth. I noticed on brush had pitted and only about half of it touched the commutator. I put the motor back and tried to open the roof but same symptoms described above.
I purchased a multimeter and tried to see if any voltage was going to the motor. I have to admit I am not sure I did this correctly. first I stuck two paper clips into the plug, attached alligator clips to the clips then attached the alligator clips to my multimeter prongs. I closed the trunk and had someone start the car and try to open the top. There was no reading. I then took off the casing plugged the motor in attached the alligator clips to the copper wires attached to the brushes. Started the car, tried to open the top, still no reading.
I have not found a vag-com yet but am looking.
Any thoughts on what could be the issue without the vag-com?
Click to expand...

Hello,

To rectify the motor issue, you need to replace the brushes, cleaning and prying is only a short term solution....

Check the motor for continuity, is it open circuit? If not remove the motor and test with 12v (keep the pump vertical so fluid doesn't leak out)

If the motor works fine on the bench, then you have an issue elsewhere, it could be a number of things so looking at the live data in VCDS is the next step.

Don't believe the fault codes !

Where are you based?

Regards, Khurrum, 07834770567, www.vagpro.co.uk, www.facebook.com/vprouk, www.instagram.com/vagprouk




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VagPro said:
Hello,

To rectify the motor issue, you need to replace the brushes, cleaning and prying is only a short term solution....

Check the motor for continuity, is it open circuit? If not remove the motor and test with 12v (keep the pump vertical so fluid doesn't leak out)

If the motor works fine on the bench, then you have an issue elsewhere, it could be a number of things so looking at the live data in VCDS is the next step.

Don't believe the fault codes !

Where are you based?

Regards, Khurrum, 07834770567, www.vagpro.co.uk, www.facebook.com/vprouk, www.instagram.com/vagprouk




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Click to expand...

Hi again Khurrum,
Based out of Lexington, Kentucky USA.
I tested for continuity on the motor and it was not an open circuit.
I took the motor out and hooked it up to my battery Tested at 13.5 volts on the multimeter. The Motor starting running, very fast.
I connected positive (red) to positive (red) on the battery and negative (black) to negative (black) on the battery via jumper cables.
It does seem as if my issue is elsewhere.
I will probably have to buy the VAG Com in the next week. It is not so bad at $199. Better than the $3ooo the dealership wanted to replace the whole pump and motor.
 
KYAudiGuy said:
Hi again Khurrum,
Based out of Lexington, Kentucky USA.
I tested for continuity on the motor and it was not an open circuit.
I took the motor out and hooked it up to my battery Tested at 13.5 volts on the multimeter. The Motor starting running, very fast.
I connected positive (red) to positive (red) on the battery and negative (black) to negative (black) on the battery via jumper cables.
It does seem as if my issue is elsewhere.
I will probably have to buy the VAG Com in the next week. It is not so bad at $199. Better than the $3ooo the dealership wanted to replace the whole pump and motor.
Click to expand...

Khurrum,

The vag-com just arrived and I plugged it into the car. I have not read the manual yet but here is what came up

3 Faults Found
02000 - Switch Position
008- Implausible Signal
01197 - Convertible Top Locking Motor (V223)
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Any thoughts?
 
I'm not to sure where to look now. My roof has been playing up for a while. It is now not working at all. It use to unlatch and the back window and storage compartment use to go up then stop. But was intermittent. Thought it could be the angle sensor, but did nothing about it. Then it would get stuck down and not go back up. Now it just unlatches and nothing else. So i cleaned the brushes and it worked a couple of times then stopped. So i repeated it and it done the same. So I thought id buy a recon one and it would fix the problem.

So i swapped the motor out and the same problem is still there. I was looking at the relays by the motor they had a bit of corrosion on so i tested them one wasnt working so thought that must be it. Went halfords and changed it. And that still did not solve the issue.

So at this point for some reason. I decided to scan with vcds. and it said short to ground on the relay. so i swapped them around and the fault followed so i thought ok. Swapped both relays for new ones. and i still have the problem and have this fault code.

01109 - Hydraulic Pump Relay (J321)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

If anyone has ideas I'd be open to suggestions.

thanks
 
VagPro said:
Hello,

To rectify the motor issue, you need to replace the brushes, cleaning and prying is only a short term solution....

Check the motor for continuity, is it open circuit? If not remove the motor and test with 12v (keep the pump vertical so fluid doesn't leak out)

If the motor works fine on the bench, then you have an issue elsewhere, it could be a number of things so looking at the live data in VCDS is the next step.

Don't believe the fault codes !

Where are you based?

Regards, Khurrum, 07834770567, www.vagpro.co.uk, www.facebook.com/vprouk, www.instagram.com/vagprouk




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Click to expand...

Hi VagPro,
Having gained temporary relief by cleaning the brushes-commutator several times over the past years it is now time to
replace the brushes for a longer-term fix.
Questions:
1. do u have the specifications and dimensions for the brushes.
2. Do u know a source for ordering these parts.
3. Are there any detailed instructions for taking the motor assembly apart to get access to replace the brushes? Will I lose some hydraulic fluid in the process, the Audi fluid is very expensive.

Again VagPro, my thanks for your fantastic help, you have saved me and many cabriolet owners a lot of money by showing them the way to tackle this problem.
 
samba said:
Hi VagPro,
Having gained temporary relief by cleaning the brushes-commutator several times over the past years it is now time to
replace the brushes for a longer-term fix.
Questions:
1. do u have the specifications and dimensions for the brushes.
2. Do u know a source for ordering these parts.
3. Are there any detailed instructions for taking the motor assembly apart to get access to replace the brushes? Will I lose some hydraulic fluid in the process, the Audi fluid is very expensive.

Again VagPro, my thanks for your fantastic help, you have saved me and many cabriolet owners a lot of money by showing them the way to tackle this problem.
Click to expand...

This is not Vagpro - but in my opinion I would
1. just buy a new motor - it costs around $300-$400 not so bad
2. In the US there are lots of web sites to go to to order the part. Here is one.
https://parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi__A...--COMPONENTS-CONVERTIBLESOFT-TOP/1345635.html
3. You will lose hydraulic fluid if you are not careful how you tilt the motor. From what I have seen the fluid can be bought for $30.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Audi-Convertible-Top-Hydraulic-System-Pump-Fluid-/170668831160
Hope this helps....I am sure you can find the same where you are.
 
KYAudiGuy said:
Khurrum,

The vag-com just arrived and I plugged it into the car. I have not read the manual yet but here is what came up

3 Faults Found
02000 - Switch Position
008- Implausible Signal
01197 - Convertible Top Locking Motor (V223)
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Sorry, is your issue sorted now? If your in the U.K. Just ring me


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8h3tdi said:
I'm not to sure where to look now. My roof has been playing up for a while. It is now not working at all. It use to unlatch and the back window and storage compartment use to go up then stop. But was intermittent. Thought it could be the angle sensor, but did nothing about it. Then it would get stuck down and not go back up. Now it just unlatches and nothing else. So i cleaned the brushes and it worked a couple of times then stopped. So i repeated it and it done the same. So I thought id buy a recon one and it would fix the problem.

So i swapped the motor out and the same problem is still there. I was looking at the relays by the motor they had a bit of corrosion on so i tested them one wasnt working so thought that must be it. Went halfords and changed it. And that still did not solve the issue.

So at this point for some reason. I decided to scan with vcds. and it said short to ground on the relay. so i swapped them around and the fault followed so i thought ok. Swapped both relays for new ones. and i still have the problem and have this fault code.

01109 - Hydraulic Pump Relay (J321)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

If anyone has ideas I'd be open to suggestions.

thanks
Click to expand...

1) Test relays with 12v and multimeter
2) Test power to hydraulic pump units, wiring diagrams on page 1 of this post


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VagPro said:
Looks like I missed this one,

Options above is good, or I sell a kit on eBay which includes instructions


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Click to expand...
Hi VagPro,

Still looking for a source to replace the brushes for my 2007 Audi cabriolet motor. While I appreciate the suggestion of KyAudiGuy to buy a complete motor, I do not want to spend a fortune to get a motor with the same non-performing brushes. I simply want to replace the brushes.
I have not been able to find your kit on eBay. How is it listed?

OK, I just found it Ebay.co.uk as Audi A4 Cabriolet Hydraulic Roof Motor Refurbishment Repair Kit 8H0959755A.
 
Last edited:
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I bought my cabrio second hand in 2012 with fewer than 20,000 miles on the clock. Since than I've only added another 30,000 miles but today I've had to do my third strip, clean and loosen routine just to get the damned roof to close. Once again, the brushes were sticking in their slots.

I find it hard to believe that VAG can get away not only with using but also with continuing to supply replacement electric motors with such an obvious design fault in their up-market brand. All cabrios fitted with these motors should have been recalled and repaired by Audi at no cost to their owners. Pigs should also fly.

Anyway, as this is clearly not going to happen, I've just ordered one of Khurrum's kits so, if all goes well and I don't **** it up, I won't in future be breaking out in a cold sweat every time I want to lower or raise the roof.
 
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I would like to order the VagPro kit but according to the eBay site it does not fit the Audi A4 2007 8H7, B6, 8HE, B7 [2005-2009] Convertible 2.0 TFSI quattro.
Vagpro, is this an error, will your kit fit my car which is very common in North America.
 
Hi Khurrum,

My repair kit arrived this morning, thank you, and I have just removed the motor ready to take it over to a mate who has offered to help me with making a press to remove the spindle.

When I removed the motor, I lost some hydraulic fluid from the pump chamber, not a lot but it has got me worried.

When I replace the modified motor, will I need to top-up the fluid and if so how and with what?

Once again, I'd appreciate your advice as I'm going on holiday in a couple of weeks and want to have everything working properly before we leave.
 
Well, I think I can now answer my own queries.

Instead of welding a nut to a bar to make the spindle extractor, my mate drilled and tapped a hole for the bolt and turned down the end of the bolt to remove the thread on his lathe. The spindle came out without too much difficulty.

Removing the old brushes presented a problem as my 40W soldering iron simply wasn't up to the job. Fortunately my pal has a miniature gas soldering iron that made short work of melting the solder. Fitting the new carriers and brushes was simple but pressing the motor spindle back into the bearing in the vice was scary and required constant careful measurement to ensure correct depth of replacement. (VagPro provides very detailed photographic instructions with his kit)

We bench tested the motor on reassembly and all was well. Phew!

Today I refitted the motor to the pump, put everything back and nervously operated the roof switch. Woo hoo! It worked. After half a dozen roof cycles I checked the fluid level in the reservoir with the roof stowed and to my surprise the fluid was still at the 'max' level - so no worries there.

From what I can gather, fluid to VAG spec G 002 000 is added to the reservoir through the brass cap on its top using a syringe.

Anyway, I now have a tailor-made press for removing the motor bearing so if anyone wants to borrow it rather than making their own, you are more than welcome provided you are willing to pay return postage.

Once again, sincere thanks to Khurrum for helping us with the technical aspects of this repair.
 
samba said:
I would like to order the VagPro kit but according to the eBay site it does not fit the Audi A4 2007 8H7, B6, 8HE, B7 [2005-2009] Convertible 2.0 TFSI quattro.
Vagpro, is this an error, will your kit fit my car which is very common in North America.
Click to expand...

Hi Samba

Yes it will fit, don't trust the eBay lookup tool


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Marklar said:
Well, I think I can now answer my own queries.

Instead of welding a nut to a bar to make the spindle extractor, my mate drilled and tapped a hole for the bolt and turned down the end of the bolt to remove the thread on his lathe. The spindle came out without too much difficulty.

Removing the old brushes presented a problem as my 40W soldering iron simply wasn't up to the job. Fortunately my pal has a miniature gas soldering iron that made short work of melting the solder. Fitting the new carriers and brushes was simple but pressing the motor spindle back into the bearing in the vice was scary and required constant careful measurement to ensure correct depth of replacement. (VagPro provides very detailed photographic instructions with his kit)

We bench tested the motor on reassembly and all was well. Phew!

Today I refitted the motor to the pump, put everything back and nervously operated the roof switch. Woo hoo! It worked. After half a dozen roof cycles I checked the fluid level in the reservoir with the roof stowed and to my surprise the fluid was still at the 'max' level - so no worries there.

From what I can gather, fluid to VAG spec G 002 000 is added to the reservoir through the brass cap on its top using a syringe.

Anyway, I now have a tailor-made press for removing the motor bearing so if anyone wants to borrow it rather than making their own, you are more than welcome provided you are willing to pay return postage.

Once again, sincere thanks to Khurrum for helping us with the technical aspects of this repair.
Click to expand...

Hi Mark,

Just seen all these posts now, as you can appreciate i do not have time to constantly check forums, so i future just contact me directly through website or eBay.

Sounds like you're sorted :)

Regards
Khurrum


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Greetings Fine Folks

joining the club, and having an issue with the convertible top on a 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. Had the car in to two separate Audi dealers, gor diagnostics. First shop unable to provide solution stating more time and charges required. Second shop stated a position sensor and a motor. Had the motor cleaned and serviced; it appears to be working fine. Replaced the sensor with a new one as diagnosed by shop. Same issue is as follows:
Top will open to the point where the rear windshield needs to operate. It will usually rise, then stop completely in the open position. The roof will no longer function. If I drop the windshield manually by hand, The motion will continue. It is the same situation when trying to open the roof. Generally stopping when the rear windshield needs to function. Also swapped out control unit as another shop suggested it was the culprit. It shouldn’t be this mysterious.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys are fantastic. Thanks much.
 
Greetings Fine Folks

joining the club, and having an issue with the convertible top on a 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. Had the car in to two separate Audi dealers, gor diagnostics. First shop unable to provide solution stating more time and charges required. Second shop stated a position sensor and a motor. Had the motor cleaned and serviced; it appears to be working fine. Replaced the sensor with a new one as diagnosed by shop. Same issue is as follows:
Top will open to the point where the rear windshield needs to operate. It will usually rise, then stop completely in the open position. The roof will no longer function. If I drop the windshield manually by hand, The motion will continue. It is the same situation when trying to open the roof. Generally stopping when the rear windshield needs to function. Also swapped out control unit as another shop suggested it was the culprit. It shouldn’t be this mysterious.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys are fantastic. Thanks much.
 
Greetings Fine Folks

joining the club, and having an issue with the convertible top on a 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. Had the car in to two separate Audi dealers for diagnostics. First shop unable to provide solution stating more time and charges required. Second shop stated a position sensor and a motor. Had the motor removed, cleaned and serviced; it appears to be working fine. Replaced the sensor with a new one as diagnosed by shop. Same issue is as follows:
Top will open to the point where the rear windshield needs to operate. It will usually rise, then stop completely in the open position. The roof will no longer function. If I drop the windshield manually by hand, The motion will continue. It is the same situation when trying to open the roof. Generally stopping when the rear windshield needs to function. Also swapped out control unit as another shop suggested it was the culprit. It shouldn’t be this mysterious.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys are fantastic. Thanks much.
 
Same issue with my S4 cab today. Top went down fine, then tried to put it back up and the back hatch unlocked but zero motor sound. Any way you can shoot me the write up you did with the pictures.
 
TrueContact said:
Greetings Fine Folks

joining the club, and having an issue with the convertible top on a 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. Had the car in to two separate Audi dealers, gor diagnostics. First shop unable to provide solution stating more time and charges required. Second shop stated a position sensor and a motor. Had the motor cleaned and serviced; it appears to be working fine. Replaced the sensor with a new one as diagnosed by shop. Same issue is as follows:
Top will open to the point where the rear windshield needs to operate. It will usually rise, then stop completely in the open position. The roof will no longer function. If I drop the windshield manually by hand, The motion will continue. It is the same situation when trying to open the roof. Generally stopping when the rear windshield needs to function. Also swapped out control unit as another shop suggested it was the culprit. It shouldn’t be this mysterious.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys are fantastic. Thanks much.
Click to expand...

Have you seen my video? Mine has been working fine since I tinkered with the rubber bump stop on the header in this video

 
VagPro said:
Hello All,

I tried closing the hood one day and it did not want to budge. After closing it manually and a bit of trouble shooting I found it was the electric motor which drives the hydraulic pump which was faulty.

Symptoms: Roof unlatches but does not open, storage compartment unlatches but does not close, no noise from hydraulic unit (in RHS in boot), unit starts working after a few light taps with a soft mallet.

All the above can be due to poor conduction between the motor commutator and motor brushes.
The cause of this is that the brushes get stuck in the brush carriers and do not make good contact with the communicator, this in turn leads to arcing and poor contact. The issue is resolved by cleaning the commutator and prevented by prying open the brush carriers (gently) to allow the brushes to move freely again.


Here is what I did to get my motor working again :) (As you would expect please do so at your own risk I accept no responsibility)

So I started off by removing the boot rubber channel then the rear cross panel trim,
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ving and installing rear cross panel trim.pdf
Picture 034.jpg

Removing the right side trim
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...ing and installing side trim (right-side).pdf

but before this panel can be removed the hinge for the hood storage compartment has to be removed, be careful not to drop the washer between the hinge and the bodywork. Unclip at the back. The trim should then slide out towards the rear of the car (slide past the hood storage compartment)
You should then be somewhere here, then remove the wiring plug to the 12v power socket and the boot light. Once this panel is removed, remove the three bolts holding the amplifier. Move the amplifier to the side for easy access to the hydraulic pump. You should now have access to the hydraulic pump, proceed to removing the three nuts holding the pump down. Now before you let loose at dismantling the motor housing do something I did not do (and learnt the hard way), MARK the position of the motor casing with a black marker. Unclip the relays from the relay carrier

Now you are ready to remove the motor cover, open the 7mm bolts (make sure you have marked the position of the housing). Pull the housing, bear in mind that the magnets will provide some resistance. So now you can see the problem, dirty commutator. So I got some 800 wet and dry paper, held it in place with a screw driver and turned the motor by hand until it cleaned up. Once the surface is clean, use a Stanley blade to clean any debris in the slots on the commutator
Picture 004.jpg
. And there you have it, a nice clean commutator.
Picture 006.jpg


Reassemble with a touch of grease on the end bearing not forgetting to line up the markings you did earlier and you should be all sorted !!
The next step is to stop the problem reoccurring by prying open the brush carriers, insert a small screwdriver between the small slot in the brush carriers and gently pry them open, then pull the brushes back and confirm they spring back freely towards the commutator. See picture below

View attachment 14986

I have attached some other files which I pulled of Elsa on A4 Cabriolet roofs, these are below:

General Information on Hydraulic System
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4...r/General Information on hydraulic system.pdf

Exploded View of Convertible Top
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Exploded View of Convertible Top.pdf

Exploded View of Hydraulic System
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/exploded view of hydraulic system.pdf

Block Diagram of Hydraulic System (This is in case you want to know how it really works !!)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Block diagram of hydraulic system.pdf

Wiring Diagrams for Electric Hood
2003 Onwards
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Electric Hood Wiring Diagram 2003 on.pdf

2005 Onwards
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38150502/A4 Cab Roof Motor Repair/Electric Hood Wiring Diagram 2005 on.pdf

Good luck ! In case of any queries, or if you would like any more information of the workshop manual drop me an email

khurrumsattar@hotmail.com
facebook.com\VProUK
I have recently had a number of emails and requests for other roof related issues and for carrying out the procedure above. Although I work full time as an Engineer I can assist for a small fee (to cover my time). So please do not hesitate to contact me !!
Click to expand...

All the links to the images and PDFs in the original posts are broken, given the age of the post, were the links/PDFs moved and can a moderator or administrator fix the problem? Thanks!

BTW I attached this handy video to "reboot/reset" manually the convertible top...just make sure you start with all the windows down, otherwise it will be still be dead and give a yellow alarm that the top is not secured with an audible alarm that sounds every time you come to a stop for about 10 secs. (very irritating). Such was the symptoms on my 2006 A4 Cabriolet.

 
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Roland Wong said:
All the links to the images and PDFs in the original posts are broken, given the age of the post, were the links/PDFs moved and can a moderator or administrator fix the problem? Thanks!

BTW I attached this handy video to "reboot/reset" manually the convertible top...just make sure you start with all the windows down, otherwise it will be still be dead and give a yellow alarm that the top is not secured with an audible alarm that sounds every time you come to a stop for about 10 secs. (very irritating). Such was the symptoms on my 2006 A4 Cabriolet.

Click to expand...


Good info Roland, thanks
 
Hi am fairly sure i have the same problem as the OP and would love to attempt at least a quick fix (i know ill prob need ot replace the brushes), i just want to see if cleaning up the commutator and brushes helps. unfortunately there is only one pic on the thread left, so im a bit nervous about tearing down the motor without much prior experience - has anyone got some of the original pics or a teardown guide for the uninitiated - please please please

have vcds, checked error codes etc, mvb's seem ok - roof rises 2 inches only, no sound of the motor etc etc - so pretty sure its the motor brushes/cleaning that might be diy'able but admittedly also may need to be refurbed
 
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