Oil?

Cheeks

Cheeks

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So it seems like I’m leaking oil, very small amounts just in front of my driver side front wheel...

Just been serviced with belt/pump, no lights, all running okay.

Any ideas anyone?

Ignore the wheels, I know they suck, came with the car when I got it

b1d097330bea84edbbeed2a8d003867b.jpg



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Is it def oil? Thats below where the power steering pump lives I believe. Pump might be leaking or hose leading up to it.
 
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SamHendry said:
Is it def oil? Thats below where the power steering pump lives I believe. Pump might be leaking or hose leading up to it.
Click to expand...

I just assumed it was oil to be honest!
It’s dark like in the pic and does sort of have that oily sheen to it, haven’t noticed any steering issues or pump noise apart from an inner track rod knocking, I’ll stick some leak stuff in and see what it does!




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Resurrecting this one
Just had a service last month and my oil warning light came on on a drive home, checked my dipstick and it was showing a dab at the bottom of the stick!
Filled up again and the warning is off.
Using 10w 40 on a PD130
175k miles

It has been dripping around the front with watery oily fluid, I’m guessing it’s water from the roads and oil tasted salty though? Maybe the grit on the roads.

Any ideas?


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Cheeks said:
Resurrecting this one
Just had a service last month and my oil warning light came on on a drive home, checked my dipstick and it was showing a dab at the bottom of the stick!
Filled up again and the warning is off.
Using 10w 40 on a PD130
175k miles

It has been dripping around the front with watery oily fluid, I’m guessing it’s water from the roads and oil tasted salty though? Maybe the grit on the roads.

Any ideas?


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Click to expand...

You are going to kill the camshaft with that oil , it's not PD and not fully synthetic .

Which one actually is it ?
 
Gazwould said:
You are going to kill it with that oil , it's not PD and not fully synthetic .

Which one actually is it ?
Click to expand...

It’s 505.01 spec and semi synthetic as far as I remember


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Gazwould said:
505.01 is OK ( not the best ) , it's PD and synthetic and never a 10W40 .
Click to expand...

Not sure what other spec to put in tbh! 506?
I figured it may be better to drop in 5/30 as it’s on 175k miles.

What do you recommend, and are you saying the oil may have caused the leak?


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Cheeks said:
Not sure what other spec to put in tbh! 506?
I figured it may be better to drop in 5/30 as it’s on 175k miles.

What do you recommend, and are you saying the oil may have caused the leak?


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Click to expand...
don't use 5w30 in a derv...

<tuffty/>
 
You'll have to excuse Paul he's part of the Badger Get Fresh crew , every answer is from a racing point of view , non ECE R90 racing brake pads , min 40 grade engine oil whilst being ignorant that there are thin and thick in a grade so a thick 30 can be a whisker away from a thin 40 grade and thus is the case as the 5W30 used is the thick , almost a 40 .

Please excuse him...

Pop your 8L details in the Castrol oil selector and...

2017 11 19 103340
 
Gazwould said:
You'll have to excuse Paul he's part of the Badger Get Fresh crew , every answer is from a racing point of view , non ECE R90 racing brake pads , min 40 grade engine oil whilst being ignorant that there are thin and thick in a grade so a thick 30 can be a whisker away from a thin 40 grade and thus is the case as the 5W30 used is the thick , almost a 40 .

Please excuse him...

Pop your 8L details in the Castrol oil selector and...

View attachment 141977
Click to expand...

Ahh that’s actually my engine code too! ASZ
Well seeing as it’s draining itself anyway I grab some and find the leak while I’m at it.


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50411a36cb5f39713d7986c9e431de30.jpg


Got some of this today

Yes I know it’s not a great brand but I’ve spent a fortune already in the past month.

5w40 Specifically for PD engines
505.01/502
Fully synthetic


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Gazwould said:
You'll have to excuse Paul he's part of the Badger Get Fresh crew , every answer is from a racing point of view , non ECE R90 racing brake pads , min 40 grade engine oil whilst being ignorant that there are thin and thick in a grade so a thick 30 can be a whisker away from a thin 40 grade and thus is the case as the 5W30 used is the thick , almost a 40 .

Please excuse him...

Pop your 8L details in the Castrol oil selector and...

View attachment 141977
Click to expand...
Seriously dude... Wind your f*cking neck in

<tuffty/>
 
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With this sort of thing it is really a case of continued observation. With the service you had last month, the mechanic (servicing tends to be given to apprentices :highly amused:) may not have put the right amount of oil in to start with or the filter or sump plug might not be tightened properly. I would check these basic things first and then top up, on level ground, to ensure you know the oil is at its maximum - then recheck regularly and observe any drop. The fluids you mention don't sound like obvious engine oil and if your engine was leaking sufficient to fall from max on the dip-stick to "warning light level", you would notice a huge leak around the engine somewhere.
 
Retroman said:
With this sort of thing it is really a case of continued observation. With the service you had last month, the mechanic (servicing tends to be given to apprentices :highly amused:) may not have put the right amount of oil in to start with or the filter or sump plug might not be tightened properly. I would check these basic things first and then top up, on level ground, to ensure you know the oil is at its maximum - then recheck regularly and observe any drop. The fluids you mention don't sound like obvious engine oil and if your engine was leaking sufficient to fall from max on the dip-stick to "warning light level", you would notice a huge leak around the engine somewhere.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
It was actually a garage where I know the owners, so I actually did part of it, (putting oil in) if I remember correctly I think I put 4 and a bit litres in.

Oddly I haven’t noticed any drips today but it also hasn’t been raining or wet at all.

The fluid that drips looks like water and oil and it’s always on the front right wheel just in front. Would that possibly be an intercooler seal leak?


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Since this higher engine oil usage, does the exhaust chuck out a noticeable amount of pale smoke on acceleration? After 175,000 it would not be unusual for a turbo to need some sort of attention/repair e.g. the turbo oil seal. It might be something to get checked to eliminate.
 
Retroman said:
Since this higher engine oil usage, does the exhaust chuck out a noticeable amount of pale smoke on acceleration? After 175,000 it would not be unusual for a turbo to need some sort of attention/repair e.g. the turbo oil seal. It might be something to get checked to eliminate.
Click to expand...

I’ve only had the car about 2 months, I was told that the turbo had been replaced “recently” so probably somewhere in the last 100k haha no smoke at all though.


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Gazwould said:
You'll have to excuse Paul he's part of the Badger Get Fresh crew , every answer is from a racing point of view , non ECE R90 racing brake pads , min 40 grade engine oil whilst being ignorant that there are thin and thick in a grade so a thick 30 can be a whisker away from a thin 40 grade and thus is the case as the 5W30 used is the thick , almost a 40 .

Please excuse him...

Pop your 8L details in the Castrol oil selector and...

View attachment 141977
Click to expand...

You all have to excuse Gaz... He's part of the keyboard warrior crew, all about posting specs online and ignoring any opinions based on years of experience because "computer says no", whilst being ignorant about the fact that most people don't really put so much value in what a spiderweb diagram supposedly tells them.

Please excuse him, and me cause I am part of some crew and ignorant about something, and subsequently feel the need to post these sorts of messages about it.
 
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More ignorance !

The spiderman web is courtousy of the Lubrizol corporation an American oil company since 1928 who has kindly examined the specs , without who's to tell what's what as anything can be stated on the packaging . The spiderweb shows 5W30 504.00 507.00 out performing 5W40 502.00 505.01.

As does oil specification. org , a oil manufacturer and German labritory commitioned by VW themselves who's oil spec it is who labeled the 5W40 a medium quantity oil and 5W30 high quality .

post-91516-0-21521400-1457949009.png


So that's four different entities confirming the same .

No doubt down to it's basestock groups and additive package concentrion as the German lab published .

The best oils like Millers CFS Nanodrive NT+ have 10-20% ester in them and the 5W30 has top group 5 ester , the 5W40 does not .


Paul's statement of don't use 5W30 in a diesel was incorrect .

Putting in the details of the gentleman's 2000-2003 8L 1.9PD 130 ASZ into the Castrol oil selector didn't even give the option of the lesser quality 5W40 505.01 !

Enter the details into the Fuchs site and..

2017 11 20 082628
2017 11 20 082931



Three 30's and one 40 grade .

Bear in mind the viscosity difference between the 30 and 40 at high temp is so close it could be considered the same ( 1 centiStoke ) unlike the 30 difference to the recent 508.00 509.00 0W20 oil is greater at 4 centiStokes .

2016-06-03-08-36-39-jpg.93062


Now I have used Castrol and Fuchs because they have been/are currently the genuine VAG oil suppliers .

I can see this old ( 1999 ) ?? 5W40 505.01 PD spec becoming obsolete as it serves no purpose as 5W30 507.00 is superior , universal , fixed / variable , with dpf / without dpf , PD / non PD .

The penny dropped for a well-known Nottingham VAG indie , he just orders the one universal 504.00 507.00 oil in 208L barrels .


5W40 502.00 505.01 will only serve to lubricate those with out of date thinking .
 
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Its not like VW actually care though.

You could run the cars on cheapo 5w30 or expensive 10w50 with regular changes and the engine would still last long enough to get it outside of the warranty.

Any protection from high quality oil is negated by more regular oil changes of cheap stuff so its a moot point.

Anyway, keep going. I'll get the popcorn
 
to be fair the car is worth about £800 and there has been about 10 hours of chitchat on this single thread.
I turned my boost up to 11 and have 1 mm of black sludge over the minimum so we can put the oil test to the challenge - I am actually running the wrong ford oil as it was left over from the Mazda oil change 14 months ago. :)
 
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It was originally a thread about an oil leak way back when hahahaha


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was your leak "in ya 'ed" in the end - the thing about cars is the more you look the more you'll find that's why God invented splash trays and engine covers - problems solved :D
 
Stuart B said:
was your leak "in ya 'ed" in the end - the thing about cars is the more you look the more you'll find that's why God invented splash trays and engine covers - problems solved :D
Click to expand...

No haha still no idea what the dripping is, got an s3 subframe/arms/shocks going on so I’ll get it looked at then!




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I replaced my power steering high pressure power steering pipe a month ago or so, as it was leaking. have you checked to see if the level has gone down?
 
Stuart B said:
to be fair the car is worth about £800 and there has been about 10 hours of chitchat on this single thread.
I turned my boost up to 11 and have 1 mm of black sludge over the minimum so we can put the oil test to the challenge - I am actually running the wrong ford oil as it was left over from the Mazda oil change 14 months ago. :)
Click to expand...

I use the left over dreggs from customer oil changes and if needed the cheapo 5w30 from the big barrels. 170k and going strong.....
 
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