reverse camera (wireless) cable routing ??!?

Ike

Original bad-man
Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Messages
123
Reaction score
36
Points
28
following on from removing the rear trim, i am now trying to work out how i'm supposed to route the cables... can't seem to see this described on other threads for some reason. i guess i am missing something?

in my rear trim removal thread @SootySport mentioned about running through a rubber gromit by the hinge, not sure what he is describing - is that a sportback thing?

i have some images below:
  • the first is where i plan to drill a hole to get the cables from the number plate holder inside the car.
  • the second is how i imagined the wiring to be routed.
  • the third is what i see after pulling more trim away which makes me wonder what the hell i am supposed to do, there seems to be no route for the cables toward the reverse light?!?

can someone please point me to the info or help out with this.

518pl4.jpg


1z33zop.jpg


2luzady.jpg
 
Can you not mount the camera where the number plate lights is? This would then mean you don’t need to drill through the boot lid.

Something like this would replace your existing number plate light and may connect to your new cables. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/172299024205

Run the wires up and through the plastic conduit as you’ve highlighted in photo 2&3. You may need to drop the head lining slightly to catch the wire inside the car, then feed down the pillar to the back lights.
 
Can you not mount the camera where the number plate lights is? This would then mean you don’t need to drill through the boot lid.

Something like this would replace your existing number plate light and may connect to your new cables. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/172299024205

Run the wires up and through the plastic conduit as you’ve highlighted in photo 2&3. You may need to drop the head lining slightly to catch the wire inside the car, then feed down the pillar to the back lights.


i've got this one - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170-Car-A...Sensors-Kit-Europe-License-Plate/201962687449. it has the camera and sensors integrated.

not entirely happy about the hole but will treat and it will be behind the number plate position anyway...

the wire running issue is where the yellow ellipse is (fyi the green ellipse is a guesstimation of where the wireless module wires can be attached to the camera/sensor wires). there seems to be no way to ingress the wires through the bodywork?

not sure how the headlining comes in ... the headlining is linked to the (interior) roof of the car rather than the hatch...?

is there some way through the hinge part? i tried running a wire coat-hanger through there but it kept getting snagged...
 
If you can run the wire through that plastic conduit in photo 3 the can you catch it on the other side? I was thinking it would exit behind/above the head lining (it's too dark for me to go and take a look at mine), then run it back down, behind the internal plastics where the yellow ellipse is...
 
If you can run the wire through that plastic conduit in photo 3 the can you catch it on the other side? I was thinking it would exit behind/above the head lining (it's too dark for me to go and take a look at mine), then run it back down, behind the internal plastics where the yellow ellipse is...

that was kinda in-line with my original plan. problem is, since pulling of more cowling that route seems to exit right toward the high-level brake light rather than down toward the light cluster?
 
Well you do have to remove a lot of trim to route the cable . Boot floor comes out first then the left hand side boot trim, rear quarter panel etc, you always have to start at the bottom and work your way up, takes ages.
The existing car wiring route is under the plastic covers by the hatch hinge. There should be a large rectangular panel in the roof covering the hinge mounting area, that pops off as well and you will have access to roof corners. Your 3 door car may be different trim wise and the whole roof lining dropped a couple of inches to route the cable, that'll be a pain but doable.
Can't fathom out what camera you have but mine is a straight forward number p late light replacement for an A3.
 
I've fitted a camera to my 3door 2010 A3 Black Edition so can help. It's easier than you think :)

First a few questions...

Have you bought your camera? If so what one?
The thread title says wireless?
What headunit are you running and what wiring loom?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0800.PNG
    IMG_0800.PNG
    1.3 MB · Views: 127
I've fitted a camera to my 3door 2010 A3 Black Edition so can help. It's easier than you think :)

First a few questions...

Have you bought your camera? If so what one?
The thread title says wireless?
What headunit are you running and what wiring loom?

Sounds good, to clear-up questions;

Camera = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170-Car-A...Sensors-Kit-Europe-License-Plate/201962687449
Wireless module = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-4Ghz-Wi...-for-Car-Rear-View-Backup-Camera/191930460094
Head Unit = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Android-7...PS-SAT-NAV-DAB-4G-for-Audi-A3-S3/192287247686

All purchased already.
 
Ahh, shame you bought that camera as you will have to drill into the car.. With my camera (less than £10 with wiring), I drilled into the number plate light holder which is a removal part. The cable was then run through the rubber gromit by the hinge (you have to remove the plastic cover as shown in your last photo to access the rubber gromit).

IMG 0804


From here your cables are inside the headling. I removed the rear centre headling piece (just pulls off) then simply pushed the cable up the sides of the headling all the way to the from A pillar.
IMG 0803


Pushed it under the A pillar (no need to remove), down to the glovebox. I removed the glovebox to give easy access to the rear of the head unit.


Could you return your camera and wiring? A wired connection will be much better!
 
Ahh, shame you bought that camera as you will have to drill into the car.. With my camera (less than £10 with wiring), I drilled into the number plate light holder which is a removal part. The cable was then run through the rubber gromit by the hinge (you have to remove the plastic cover as shown in your last photo to access the rubber gromit).

View attachment 139654

From here your cables are inside the headling. I removed the rear centre headling piece (just pulls off) then simply pushed the cable up the sides of the headling all the way to the from A pillar.
View attachment 139655

Pushed it under the A pillar (no need to remove), down to the glovebox. I removed the glovebox to give easy access to the rear of the head unit.


Could you return your camera and wiring? A wired connection will be much better!

i don't really wanna return it tbh - i like having that sensors (beeps) too. got used to them with my current car. the only real 'reason' for the camera is because the head-unit supports it and it is reasonably inexpensive :D the beeps are more useful to me.

the reason for getting the wireless kit was because i hate messing about with the trim on cars. i'm always worrying about (or actually) breaking it, or it doesn't go back properly. i should have realised before that the numberplate is on the hatch itself. not had that before... i'm not overly pleased about the hole but it will always be hidden behind the plate, so not overly concerning either.

so by the looks of it you've no actual connection to the reverse light +ve?

i'm thinking i am shizzle outta luck with this as the only option seems to be as @samuelh_888 suggested to stick the wire (exposed) down the hatch itself and the rear light cluster.

can anyone definitively/explicitly confirm/deny that is would be possible to route the wire between hatch and the cluster behind the body? - the plan was to have no wires visible...
 
i'm thinking i am shizzle outta luck with this as the only option seems to be as @samuelh_888 suggested to stick the wire (exposed) down the hatch itself and the rear light cluster

I wouldn’t have the wires exposed - I’d take off the panel circled in red and run the wires down (the yellow line) to the reverse light. You’ll have to catch the wire from under the head lining (if you passed it though the plastic/rubber conduit). Tape the wire to the C Pillar then put the trim back on.

17A47BBC 1072 43F0 AA3A 65CB0DA88142
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Ike
I wouldn’t have the wires exposed - I’d take off the panel circled in red and run the wires down (the yellow line) to the reverse light. You’ll have to catch the wire from under the head lining (if you passed it though the plastic/rubber conduit). Tape the wire to the C Pillar then out the trim back on.

View attachment 139712

ok gotcha, thanks for the illustration :) i see what you and Sooty etc. have been saying now. it's an in and out thing!

will consider not using the wireless adapter... as will basically be halfway there. i know you said it would not be needed but i'm gonna have to take off the a-pillar trim for the dab aerial anyway. also may or may not be needed for routing the dvr (dash) cam... one thing at a time though (as much as possible!)
 
  • Like
Reactions: samuelh_888
You cannot use the reverse light to power the camera as it's canbus. I believe it pulses so the camera would go on and off. You could use the reverse light to switch a relay, with a "clean" 12v feed on the relay switch. When reverse is selected the clean 12v powers the camera.

I have not connected into the reverse light as the connects 2 wiring harness has a reverse signal that automatically switches the screen.

You can use a ignition switched live from the rear wiper motor and there is a earth bolt nearby (I have). This means the camera is "on" every time the igntion is on and when the car is running. This was my preferred choice as I wanted to be able to switch the camera on even when not in reverse, I simply press the camera button on my head unit (Pioneer Da-120). As the connects 2 wiring already has the reverse input this automatically switches my screen to reverse cam when reverse is selected . Perfect!!

You have 2 choices
Use ur existing wireless cable .. Get the cable through the grommet and down to the wiper motor switched 12v and - ... u now also have to power up the receiver at the front of the car.

Option 2 (best option)
Buy the wired cable and get it through the grommet and down to the motor switched 12v and - . Take the video cable through the grommet to headlining, remove the one rectangle panel (pulls off) and simple tuck the wire up the side of the headlining right to the A pillar .. this takes seconds to do and no visible cables. Tuck into A pillar , behind removed glove box and straight into head unit job done with a much better stable image
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ike
You cannot use the reverse light to power the camera as it's canbus. I believe it pulses so the camera would go on and off. You could use the reverse light to switch a relay, with a "clean" 12v feed on the relay switch. When reverse is selected the clean 12v powers the camera.

I have not connected into the reverse light as the connects 2 wiring harness has a reverse signal that automatically switches the screen.

You can use a ignition switched live from the rear wiper motor and there is a earth bolt nearby (I have). This means the camera is "on" every time the igntion is on and when the car is running. This was my preferred choice as I wanted to be able to switch the camera on even when not in reverse, I simply press the camera button on my head unit (Pioneer Da-120). As the connects 2 wiring already has the reverse input this automatically switches my screen to reverse cam when reverse is selected . Perfect!!

You have 2 choices
Use ur existing wireless cable .. Get the cable through the grommet and down to the wiper motor switched 12v and - ... u now also have to power up the receiver at the front of the car.

Option 2 (best option)
Buy the wired cable and get it through the grommet and down to the motor switched 12v and - . Take the video cable through the grommet to headlining, remove the one rectangle panel (pulls off) and simple tuck the wire up the side of the headlining right to the A pillar .. this takes seconds to do and no visible cables. Tuck into A pillar , behind removed glove box and straight into head unit job done with a much better stable image

thanks, that's good info to know!

the kit comes as a wired package, so definitely sounds like sacking-off the wireless pack is the best option here.
 
Option 2 (best option)
Buy the wired cable and get it through the grommet and down to the motor switched 12v and - . Take the video cable through the grommet to headlining, remove the one rectangle panel (pulls off) and simple tuck the wire up the side of the headlining right to the A pillar .. this takes seconds to do and no visible cables. Tuck into A pillar , behind removed glove box and straight into head unit job done with a much better stable image

ok, so i have the video cable running through the grommet and the rectangle at the back of the headlining removed. i have access to get the cable to the headlining... the glove box is dropped and waiting...

now i guess i need some un-folded wire coat hanger or something to feed through from the front to tape the video cable to and pull it to the pillar between the passenger window and windscreen?

how does that pillar trim get removed? i pried it away a bit but couldn't see any of the clips like other trim... is it another yank like hell job or some technique to follow?
 
You can just push the cable under the headling with your fingers all the way to the front A pillar. Can't remember how the A pillar trim comes of but it was easy. Pull of the dash end plate and drop the glovebox, theres plenty of space to get the cable under the dash. zip tie the cable to the loom running across the heater unit and your there.
 
Thanks Sooty. Have the A pillar trim off now, so is just getting the cable to there.

You say push with your fingers but how can I Direct the cable to the A pillar?

That is the last piece of the puzzle now!
 
Ok, never mind. Think I got it. Feed it round the edge rather than over the top...
 
That's how I done it around the edge slides up easily.. easy when you know how isn't it
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ike

Similar threads