Android RNS-E

well, there's new generation and new generation...

i have caplay in another car currently, i don't really use it. apps are resticted, insists on using apple maps instead of built in nav. i don't use siri. it doesn't always connect. though occasionally there is something that may seem sweet at that moment, it's a bit **** really.

not sure about android auto as i've been on ios the last few years, but with carplay you have to connect by cable to use it. there's an alpine unit currently in usa only that does wireless carplay but not here yet. battery drain will be a bitch though.

feature-wise, i was looking at a kenwood unit for about 400 bones but i thought the interface was chintzy where clean and crisp is what's called for. top-end pioneer avic units are nice, but a lot more dough.

for me, dab is the main thing. but with these android units you get android apps - spotify, plex, etc. and for those that know, vision radio uk :D

due to ugliness of mainstream units, personally i thought i'd give it a go as i can get the cameras (etc.) are cheaper than mainstream add-ons, the unit itself is also a chunk cheaper - though not 10% like most chinese 'homage' kit.

nav-wise i can use whatever i want, no lock-in. it also fits properly without some dodgy facia adaptor.

also the possibility to perhaps get a lineageOS build on it in the future may help with customisation, patches, freshness etc..

not sure how it will turn out, let's see...
 
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Fair enough. I'll watch this space.
Have you seen the Sony HU? https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax200
Looks respectable enough without the typical gloss plastic you get from 3rd party units.

Ike said:
well, there's new generation and new generation...

i have caplay in another car currently, i don't really use it. apps are resticted, insists on using apple maps instead of built in nav. i don't use siri. it doesn't always connect. though occasionally there is something that may seem sweet at that moment, it's a bit **** really.

not sure about android auto as i've been on ios the last few years, but with carplay you have to connect by cable to use it. there's an alpine unit currently in usa only that does wireless carplay but not here yet. battery drain will be a bitch though.

feature-wise, i was looking at a kenwood unit for about 400 bones but i thought the interface was chintzy where clean and crisp is what's called for. top-end pioneer avic units are nice, but a lot more dough.

for me, dab is the main thing. but with these android units you get android apps - spotify, plex, etc. and for those that know, vision radio uk :D

due to ugliness of mainstream units, personally i thought i'd give it a go as i can get the cameras (etc.) are cheaper than mainstream add-ons, the unit itself is also a chunk cheaper - though not 10% like most chinese 'homage' kit.

nav-wise i can use whatever i want, no lock-in. it also fits properly without some dodgy facia adaptor.

also the possibility to perhaps get a lineageOS build on it in the future may help with customisation, patches, freshness etc..

not sure how it will turn out, let's see...
Click to expand...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
nah, hadn't seen that one. it does look clean and fresh from the shots shown.

no dab though, i know that doesn't bother most people but is a must have for me.

the only other thing of query there is the same as the android units, dvd - really? about as useful as sd card, usb thumb drive, cd, cassette and 8-track in 2017.

dab, mobile, app or gtfo :p
 
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trying to install this android unit at the moment. the supplier said this was for bose system yet bose is not working, zero bass. other first round issues include no bluetooth streaming, though phone functionality works ok. not even got any further yet as no bose = no way.

any help would be much appreciated!
 
Ike said:
trying to install this android unit at the moment. the supplier said this was for bose system yet bose is not working, zero bass. other first round issues include no bluetooth streaming, though phone functionality works ok. not even got any further yet as no bose = no way.

any help would be much appreciated!
Click to expand...

hmm, so i think the bose is actually "working" in a fashion... as seemed to be indicated by an earlier post in this thread the unit for some reason is just configured for no bass and ear piercing treble. on 'rock' amp setting there is a little bass but still sounds ****. there is also the feedback/hiss issue. will have to re-read this thread in detail/entirety and see if there is any solution... if someone has a quick-fix please shout!!!
 
Ike said:
hmm, so i think the bose is actually "working" in a fashion... as seemed to be indicated by an earlier post in this thread the unit for some reason is just configured for no bass and ear piercing treble. on 'rock' amp setting there is a little bass but still sounds ****. there is also the feedback/hiss issue. will have to re-read this thread in detail/entirety and see if there is any solution... if someone has a quick-fix please shout!!!
Click to expand...

For hiss you need something like https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252307253937 as a post in this thread previously implied.
 
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Ike said:
hmm, so i think the bose is actually "working" in a fashion... as seemed to be indicated by an earlier post in this thread the unit for some reason is just configured for no bass and ear piercing treble. on 'rock' amp setting there is a little bass but still sounds ****. there is also the feedback/hiss issue. will have to re-read this thread in detail/entirety and see if there is any solution... if someone has a quick-fix please shout!!!
Click to expand...

By the way, how's the fit? I've seen photos and videos where the unit sticks out a bit at the bottom!
 
maxpayne said:
By the way, how's the fit? I've seen photos and videos where the unit sticks out a bit at the bottom!
Click to expand...

ta for the rca link, worth throwing a tenner at... was looking at/for the mentioned cache audio line output driver box as this lack of bass is heartbreaking at the moment. more reading of the thread and googling etc. to be done... worst comes to worst i do have an old amp and sub i could fit which would give bass in your chest feeling! but really the stock bose was fine for me.

i'll take some photos and give more info once done but not pushed it home yet so not currently sure. need to route wires and attach adapters for the add-ons and be sure before pushing it home as i the removal keys don't fit (needs thin finger cutters) and don't fancy doing the hokey-cokey with it anyway!

iirc i did see previously a recommendation to use the rns-e rubber strips so will be looking at doing that when the time comes.
 
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Hi. Last week i bought the Eonon GA8157 at this link: http://www.eonon.co.uk/Android-Car-Stereo/Car-Specific-GPS/GA8157.html
I managed to get it up and running after i retrofitted my 1din Audi Concert 2 to Dual DIN Cage, but now, as you are probably guessing, my rear speakers + sub + radio signal aren't working.

I measured my amp control wire, and i get 10v on that cable. Front speakers are very good amplified and strong, but rear speakers have a very low volume, and the sub is almost inexistent at volume under 15.
I asked the Eonon customer support for info, and they recommended me to bypass the RR/RL cables from the amplifier iso, to the direct HU amplifier, next to the front speakers.
Will that be a good thing?

They want me to bypass my rear amplifier directly to the head unit amplifier. For me, it sounds pretty legit and simple. Will that make a difference?

Its and Audi A3 2006, without BOSE system. Only the rear speakers + sub are amplified.

Thats issue nr.1.
Issued nr.2 is that my radio signal is bad. I have 2 antenaes cables next to my head unit. One is fakkra (orange), the other is the casual antena (don't know its name). Whichever i connect, i still have the same bad signal.
Will an antena amplifier do the trick? (the one with the lead and the blue 12v cable?).

Thank you in advance!
 

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Fakken said:
Hi. Last week i bought the Eonon GA8157 at this link: http://www.eonon.co.uk/Android-Car-Stereo/Car-Specific-GPS/GA8157.html
I managed to get it up and running after i retrofitted my 1din Audi Concert 2 to Dual DIN Cage, but now, as you are probably guessing, my rear speakers + sub + radio signal aren't working.

I measured my amp control wire, and i get 10v on that cable. Front speakers are very good amplified and strong, but rear speakers have a very low volume, and the sub is almost inexistent at volume under 15.
I asked the Eonon customer support for info, and they recommended me to bypass the RR/RL cables from the amplifier iso, to the direct HU amplifier, next to the front speakers.
Will that be a good thing?

They want me to bypass my rear amplifier directly to the head unit amplifier. For me, it sounds pretty legit and simple. Will that make a difference?

Its and Audi A3 2006, without BOSE system. Only the rear speakers + sub are amplified.

Thats issue nr.1.
Issued nr.2 is that my radio signal is bad. I have 2 antenaes cables next to my head unit. One is fakkra (orange), the other is the casual antena (don't know its name). Whichever i connect, i still have the same bad signal.
Will an antena amplifier do the trick? (the one with the lead and the blue 12v cable?).

Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...

Bypassing the rear speaker amp does not sound like a great solution. the speakers should be matched for power with the amp so i doubt the headunit driving the speakers would work, if it does then i expect it will be poor.

from doing a bit more reading since my purchase, i believe the antenna is already powered in an A3. Seems strange you have 2 antenna cables though...

Sorry I can't actually help, still working through issues myself.
 
It sounds like a great solution to me, because the head unit amplifier is more powerfull, as i felt it for my front speakers. They sound more powerfull than they felt on the Concert 2.
My problem is that i don't know if bypassing it, it will be ok for the amp. Should i keep it powered up, or remove the power cable from it?

Maybe it will be better to remove all the rear wiring, rewire the rear speakers directly to head unit and buy a new active subwoofer.
 
Fakken said:
It sounds like a great solution to me, because the head unit amplifier is more powerfull, as i felt it for my front speakers. They sound more powerfull than they felt on the Concert 2.
My problem is that i don't know if bypassing it, it will be ok for the amp. Should i keep it powered up, or remove the power cable from it?

Maybe it will be better to remove all the rear wiring, rewire the rear speakers directly to head unit and buy a new active subwoofer.
Click to expand...

i have trouble believing that the head-unit amp is more powerful than a discrete amp, doesn't make sense to me.

however, for your sake, in this scenario, i hope i'm wrong ( i often am :p )
 
Fakken said:
It sounds like a great solution to me, because the head unit amplifier is more powerfull, as i felt it for my front speakers. They sound more powerfull than they felt on the Concert 2.
My problem is that i don't know if bypassing it, it will be ok for the amp. Should i keep it powered up, or remove the power cable from it?

Maybe it will be better to remove all the rear wiring, rewire the rear speakers directly to head unit and buy a new active subwoofer.
Click to expand...

check this thread out - http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-a3-8p-aftermarket-android-problems.274954/

i think there lies the answer to your problems :D
 
The beige part IN THAT PHOTO is the front left and front right pluses and minuses, amplified directly from the head unit. (because it has only 4 wires connected. If it had all 8 connected, all the speakers (front and rear) would have been amplified by the head unit, and that's exactly what i want to do in the posts above :D)
If you don't have them, it means that you have the BOSE system, and all speakers are amplified by the BOSE amplifier.
You should have all the audio wires in the lower green connector along with the + and ground from the amplifier.

Usually, the colors are green+purple for rear speakers, and white + gray for front speakers.
Check if you have that colors in the lower green connector.

The blue connector is also irrelevant if i remember correctly. Thats only for cd changer or xcarlink type of emulator.
The black connector should have the power and ground for the player, alone with something from bose and/or telephone.
 

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Fakken said:
The beige part IN THAT PHOTO is the front left and front right pluses and minuses, amplified directly from the head unit. (because it has only 4 wires connected. If it had all 8 connected, all the speakers (front and rear) would have been amplified by the head unit, and that's exactly what i want to do in the posts above :D)
If you don't have them, it means that you have the BOSE system, and all speakers are amplified by the BOSE amplifier.
You should have all the audio wires in the lower green connector along with the + and ground from the amplifier.

Usually, the colors are green+purple for rear speakers, and white + gray for front speakers.
Check if you have that colors in the lower green connector.

The blue connector is also irrelevant if i remember correctly. Thats only for cd changer or xcarlink type of emulator.
The black connector should have the power and ground for the player, alone with something from bose and/or telephone.
Click to expand...

that's great, thanks Fakken.

I do have BOSE and have nothing where the beige connector is in the referenced photo. what is the bottom right (blue) is the cd changer (i had a 3rd party bluetooth adapter in there before changing headunit. the upper and lower connector parts (left) are present. so that all makes sense and as needed :)
 
I have another question.
I measured with the multimeter the + and - wires from HeadUnit entrance and they have 12v with the key removed.
It seems normal, because with the old unit (concert 2), i could start it without the key.
The android unit doesn't start without turning the key to the first step (ACC). From my point of view, that is good, but i'm afraid of an battery drain.
The unit has a canbus adapter box, which does all the start/stop thingy, right?

When i turn off the car and remove the key, the HeadUnit turns off. But when i start the car, the unit starts in 1s, right where i left it, same menus.
From my point of view, that is a battery drain... or not?! Does it make any sense?
 
Fakken said:
I have another question.
I measured with the multimeter the + and - wires from HeadUnit entrance and they have 12v with the key removed.
It seems normal, because with the old unit (concert 2), i could start it without the key.
The android unit doesn't start without turning the key to the first step (ACC). From my point of view, that is good, but i'm afraid of an battery drain.
The unit has a canbus adapter box, which does all the start/stop thingy, right?

When i turn off the car and remove the key, the HeadUnit turns off. But when i start the car, the unit starts in 1s, right where i left it, same menus.
From my point of view, that is a battery drain... or not?! Does it make any sense?
Click to expand...

I may be able to tell you soon... I haven't driven mine for about a week. Mine does the same.
 
Hi all,

I am seriously considering an Xtrons unit to replace my RNS-E Mk2 unit. The biggest things I want are bluetooth hands-free calling and music playback. Some bonus features would be using Google Maps or Waze as a satnav as although I have a 2016 DVD in my RNS-E, it still has fairly limited functionality.

I was originally going to get a bluetooth kit for the RNS-E but I think the Xtrons unit can offer so much more for the same kind of cost, as well as the optional extras that look pretty good.

My main concern is I have BOSE, as far as what I can see from this thread, I need the RCA suppressor lead and that's it? There's some talk of rear speaker and subwoofer issues.

Also, Xtrons offer an Android 7 unit with quad core, and an Android 6 unit with octa-core CPU. I find that a bit odd, but which is better? Octa-core CPU's aren't always better as they often only use 4 cores at once. It doesn't specify which CPU the octa is, but the Cortex A9 quad core seems to be fairly powerful.

Sound quality, how does it comapare to the RNS-E?

One other thing is what is the DIS integration like? I'm guessing I'm going to lose the satnav display from the DIS?

Any other tips for installation? Cheers :)
 
CoolAsIce said:
Hi all,

I am seriously considering an Xtrons unit to replace my RNS-E Mk2 unit. The biggest things I want are bluetooth hands-free calling and music playback. Some bonus features would be using Google Maps or Waze as a satnav as although I have a 2016 DVD in my RNS-E, it still has fairly limited functionality.

I was originally going to get a bluetooth kit for the RNS-E but I think the Xtrons unit can offer so much more for the same kind of cost, as well as the optional extras that look pretty good.

My main concern is I have BOSE, as far as what I can see from this thread, I need the RCA suppressor lead and that's it? There's some talk of rear speaker and subwoofer issues.

Also, Xtrons offer an Android 7 unit with quad core, and an Android 6 unit with octa-core CPU. I find that a bit odd, but which is better? Octa-core CPU's aren't always better as they often only use 4 cores at once. It doesn't specify which CPU the octa is, but the Cortex A9 quad core seems to be fairly powerful.

Sound quality, how does it comapare to the RNS-E?

One other thing is what is the DIS integration like? I'm guessing I'm going to lose the satnav display from the DIS?

Any other tips for installation? Cheers :)
Click to expand...

just installed the xtrons android 7 unit. works with bose but loses a lot of bass. still waiting for my noise filters. supplier is going to send another harness (worth a try).

dis shows fm frequency and preset but not for dab or bluetooth streaming that i saw.
 
Ike said:
just installed the xtrons android 7 unit. works with bose but loses a lot of bass. still waiting for my noise filters. supplier is going to send another harness (worth a try).

dis shows fm frequency and preset but not for dab or bluetooth streaming that i saw.
Click to expand...

Ike, where did you source your noise filters from? The eBay link posted earlier is no longer active or available.

I also tried to get them from their store (auto-electronics.com), and a week later they said that they can no longer source these noise filters:

I presume that there are other options that will work, but I'd rather try something that someone else has tested vs venturing into new territory. Thanks in advance!
 
silva said:
Ike, where did you source your noise filters from? The eBay link posted earlier is no longer active or available.

I also tried to get them from their store (auto-electronics.com), and a week later they said that they can no longer source these noise filters:

I presume that there are other options that will work, but I'd rather try something that someone else has tested vs venturing into new territory. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Mine came from auto-electronics.com via their website.
 
Would have been about a month before you tried.
 
I've now got an Xtrons 8-Core unit. BOSE Sound is fantastic, rear speakers are great, tons of bass from the sub, very loud too and sound quality is really good. Plugged in with everything out the box, no extras.
 
CoolAsIce said:
I've now got an Xtrons 8-Core unit. BOSE Sound is fantastic, rear speakers are great, tons of bass from the sub, very loud too and sound quality is really good. Plugged in with everything out the box, no extras.
Click to expand...

That's good to hear. I've noticed the new units like what you will have come with different cables on the harness which makes the Bose work properly. I have an 8 core unit aswell but I've had it about 8 month now and when I got mine it doesn't have the same cables as what yours will have so I have to use the rca adaptor thingy
 
My Xtrons is in coma. The display shut off when it I parked using the rearview camera. It never came on again. I switched the HU off and on multiple times. I disconnected the power connector completely and let it stay overnight without any power. The HU doesn't start up anymore. When I turn ignition on, the initial Lolipop screen shows and stays this way. I tried to reset it countless times but nothing changed. Is the patient dead? Is it time to buy a new one, with more RAM and dual window feature? Or there is a way to un-brick mine?
 
dp_motley said:
My Xtrons is in coma. The display shut off when it I parked using the rearview camera. It never came on again. I switched the HU off and on multiple times. I disconnected the power connector completely and let it stay overnight without any power. The HU doesn't start up anymore. When I turn ignition on, the initial Lolipop screen shows and stays this way. I tried to reset it countless times but nothing changed. Is the patient dead? Is it time to buy a new one, with more RAM and dual window feature? Or there is a way to un-brick mine?
Click to expand...


You want to go on the XDA forum and I think the actual part of the forum you need is android auto and then you have to find the right part of the forum for your headunit. On there you will find a few different ways of resetting it and/or you'll be able to update the firmware which may also bring it back to life afterwards
 
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dp_motley said:
My Xtrons is in coma. The display shut off when it I parked using the rearview camera. It never came on again. I switched the HU off and on multiple times. I disconnected the power connector completely and let it stay overnight without any power. The HU doesn't start up anymore. When I turn ignition on, the initial Lolipop screen shows and stays this way. I tried to reset it countless times but nothing changed. Is the patient dead? Is it time to buy a new one, with more RAM and dual window feature? Or there is a way to un-brick mine?
Click to expand...

I’d hit the XDA forums as someone already mentioned. Also if the unit is under 2 years old you should still get warranty from Xtrons assuming you got it from UK/EU?
 
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dp_motley said:
Is the patient dead?
Click to expand...

It sounds as if there's a bit of life in it, can you get onto recovery screen?

Method is something like (if the unit is on): press and hold power button until unit powers off, lights flash, tap power button and then push and hold power button.

If you get into recovery you can try a factory reset and see if you can boot normally after that.
 
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ab1702 said:
You want to go on the XDA forum and I think the actual part of the forum you need is android auto and then you have to find the right part of the forum for your headunit. On there you will find a few different ways of resetting it and/or you'll be able to update the firmware which may also bring it back to life afterwards
Click to expand...
I considered this option. I spent some time at XDA forum after purchasing the HU and I saw threads on un-bricking. The XDA is too wordy though, that's why I reported the issue here. I'll go there and check out possibilities.
maxpayne said:
I’d hit the XDA forums as someone already mentioned. Also if the unit is under 2 years old you should still get warranty from Xtrons assuming you got it from UK/EU?
Click to expand...
I bought the HU from the UK store exactly a year ago. But I rooted it. I bet rooting void the warranty.
TheTomCutler said:
It sounds as if there's a bit of life in it, can you get onto recovery screen?

Method is something like (if the unit is on): press and hold power button until unit powers off, lights flash, tap power button and then push and hold power button.

If you get into recovery you can try a factory reset and see if you can boot normally after that.
Click to expand...
Everything would be easier if I was able to get as far as to the recovery screen. I wasn't. Before, I needed to hold the power button approximately 10 seconds until the buttons flashed 4 times, then I released the button for a brief moment and clicked it once again. The HU loaded to the recovery screen after that. It doesn't work this way anymore.
 
dp_motley said:
It doesn't work this way anymore.
Click to expand...

That's a right pain, I'll see if I can dig through the forums if I get time later and see if there are any other options. Could you send me a pic or link to your particular unit? Just so I know where to start, your unit will power on and shows the android logo but doesn't go any further?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks. My unit will power on and show the android logo but doesn't go any further, correct. Below is the picture of the Xtrons MCU version taken earlier.

If there was a similar HU with a dual screen, 2 GB RAM and RNS-E look available, I'd just buy it and throw this one out because I was tired of little RAM and low performance of this HU. Also, it's possible that a new model will be released soon.
Xtrons MCU
 
I contacted the Xtrons' tech support. They said I have to send the head unit to them for inspection under the warranty. Would they be able to see that the head unit was rooted? If they did, the warranty would be gone, right?
 
I’m looking at getting the Xtrons Octa-core to replace my RNSE, I have Bose so I hope it works (having read mixed reviews). I have a couple of questions if that’s ok?

Can I reuse any of my existing BT hands free or can all that be removed along with the RNSE?

Can the Extron BT microphone be located where the factory Audi mic is?

Can I reused my existing SatNav aerial or do I need the Xtrons one and l tuck it up above the unit?

Is there any VCDS coding required?

Thanks in advance.

Sam
 
dp_motley said:
I contacted the Xtrons' tech support. They said I have to send the head unit to them for inspection under the warranty. Would they be able to see that the head unit was rooted? If they did, the warranty would be gone, right?
Click to expand...

I suppose that depends on how screwed it is, from what I have read it seems the bootloader itself is corrupt. I guess you haven't much to lose? Do you have to send it back to the far East or somewhere more local? One last thing to try as a couple of posts mentioned it and that was cycling a long press on the reset button, 10-20 seconds or so for a few rounds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TheTomCutler said:
I suppose that depends on how screwed it is, from what I have read it seems the bootloader itself is corrupt. I guess you haven't much to lose? Do you have to send it back to the far East or somewhere more local? One last thing to try as a couple of posts mentioned it and that was cycling a long press on the reset button, 10-20 seconds or so for a few rounds.
Click to expand...
The Xtrons support provided me with the UK address. However as I'm located in Denmark, the shipping price can be £30-40.
I did everything I could with the power and reset button. Nothing's changed.
There's a possibility to make a bootable SD card. I got this info from xda-developers.com and 4PDA.ru. I'm waiting for the 4GB micro-sd card to arrive to try it out.
 
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