rear (upper) boot trim removal?

Ike

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hi,

i'm trying to remove the upper boot trim on my s3 (2007) today to install a number plate holder camera unit wotsit.

i've removed the two torx screws but cant get the thing off. i found a post on another website that say just yank it, get your fingers in and it pulls off from the spring clips...

is not working so not sure if this is right... can't yank the thing enough to get my fingers in, am stuck.

anyone able to help please?
 
hi,

i'm trying to remove the upper boot trim on my s3 (2007) today to install a number plate holder camera unit wotsit.

i've removed the two torx screws but cant get the thing off. i found a post on another website that say just yank it, get your fingers in and it pulls off from the spring clips...

is not working so not sure if this is right... can't yank the thing enough to get my fingers in, am stuck.

anyone able to help please?
There are 4 screws if a sport back remove the covers for replacing the bulbs on the hatch

Posted using a S8+ with Magic
 
There are 4 screws if a sport back remove the covers for replacing the bulbs on the hatch

Posted using a S8+ with Magic

Thanks for the reply but I have a 2007 S3 hatch, not a sportback...
 
Thanks for the reply but I have a 2007 S3 hatch, not a sportback...
Ahhh ok maybe prise it around the edges and see if you can start it off they are damn tight

Posted using a S8+ with Magic
 
Ahhh ok maybe prise it around the edges and see if you can start it off they are damn tight

Posted using a S8+ with Magic

thanks again for the response and sorry to be 'special'... is there some recommended tool for this? it is damn tight!!! worried about scraping the paint... screwdrivers and the claw side of a hammer (warpped with a bit of tissue) don't quite fit... it there are certain best place/s along the trim to start the levering?
 
Do you have a set of trim removal tools? - Amazon have them cheap. As above, prise around the edges (maybe wrap a screwdriver in a towel) - once you've lifted the edges you need to YLF to get it off - more force that you'd expect but it will come.
 
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thanks again for the response and sorry to be 'special'... is there some recommended tool for this? it is damn tight!!! worried about scraping the paint... screwdrivers and the claw side of a hammer (warpped with a bit of tissue) don't quite fit... it there are certain best place/s along the trim to start the levering?
You can get prising tools wrap a screwdriver in a cloth to protect the paint

Posted using a S8+ with Magic
 
Do you have a set of trim removal tools? - Amazon have them cheap. As above, prise around the edges (maybe wrap a screwdriver in a towel) - once you've lifted the edges you need to YLF to get it off - more force that you'd expect but it will come.

Nope, but now on-order for delivery tomorrow. Thanks to LEE69 and yourself for the help. Hopefully these tools will get the job done and save my paint and fingers :)
 
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Once the 2 torx are out if you can grab hold of it where they were it should pull of. If it's never been out or hasn't been off for awhile it can be stiff but you won't break anything. Just make sure all the lugs are on the trim when refitting.
 
What i found the eaaiest way to do it when i had my 57 s3 was to go to the left corner and put a screw driver wrapped in a cloth and gently slide it in and push down softly until you can get a cpl off fingers in , once in give it a good yank and u will free the spring clip and then just work your way round all the trim as then you can see where the clips are and pull there .
 
I use and old flat blunt chisel wrapped in rag. Any broad flat tool will work as long as it thin enough to push between the boot panel and the plastic trim. You need to start at one of the bottom corners and work your way round. The clips are metal spring clips and can fly of in any direction so be prepared to go hunting for them. When replacing the hatch trim panels check all the spring clips are where they should be or you'll be taking it off again.

Make sure you use the proper earth/chassis stud for your Neg -'ve connection, on my facelift A3 it is on the right hand side of the hatch not sure about earlier models.
Run the camera phono cable through the existing rubber gaiter by the hinge. It will be struggle with the existing wires in there so youll need to unclip the gaiter from the body and hatch holes. Tape the end of the cable to stiff wire rod, smother the taped up cable/plug with talcum powder and that will help you thread the camera cable through without sticking. Do it slowly or the phono plug will break off.
 
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ok, cool beans - we have progress :) thanks guys.

the trim kit made this easy (saves worry about damage to paint/trim) along with the advice to start at the corners.

now, it seems i'm going to have to drill a hold in the hatch to feed the wires from the number plate through as there is no existing hole to do this with. that will get me my number plate back on.

also need to get my head round the advice from Sooty... i have a wireless adapter kit, this will connect to the reverse light +ve to activate. the -ve will just need to go to some exposed chassis somewhere around there. then comes the interesting bit of trying to route wires from ~numberplate to ~ rear passenger side (UK) light cluster...