Timing chain noise - i'm hopeless

bonecore

bonecore

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My mechanik replaced the chain tensioneer on my 2.0 TFSI 2006 AXX engine model. ... . 120.000km = 75k miles
the grinding sound is still here... An idea is to go again and replace the chain too... any ideas are welcomed...
im a bit desperate

... had so much hopes for it to be a good car and it is making me depressed. Problem after problem .. after taking it from mechanik ... my windshield cracked too... i went home and fking cried for a few minutes.
I dont fix the problems as fast as they appear and i have some others too. Wanted to tune it to stage2 after i make in in good condition... when will that ever happen i wonder
 
PS: never had oil pressure lights on dash!
 
Truth of the matter is never keep an audi out of warranty. You may be lucky but chances are it will cost you a small fortune. A lot of it is down to mechanics who can only guess the problem, i have had three separate "specialists" including a main dealer try and stop my engine management light coming on for the last 10k miles and they have as good as said they are beaten now. that said i doubt any other make with the complications of the modern car is much better TBH. Personally i think there is a good reason why audi dont do 7 year warranties like some other manufacturers :)
 
5+ year std warranties doesn't mean a superior vehicle it's just a USP to get sales , sales get the revenue to then deal with the issues of the recycled Easter egg chocolate 3D printed parts.

Modern cars are rubbish and costly for reliability.
 
Yes but if audi had to mend their cars they might learn from it for example my rear drive coupling has gone, £150 on e bay but £1200 from audi because they only supply a complete propshaft......they would soon supply couplings if they had to pay for them...
 
paddy said:
Yes but if audi had to mend their cars they might learn from it for example my rear drive coupling has gone, £150 on e bay but £1200 from audi because they only supply a complete propshaft......they would soon supply couplings if they had to pay for them...
Click to expand...
true... same with hpfp , had to change entire pump because of cracked sensor
insane how many flaws coming from design failures on the audi ... probably next car will be a toyota :)
 
audi upgrades
You don't have a timing chain you have a timing belt, it just sounds like a rough idle? Engine light on? When were spark plugs changed? Coils? Vacuum leak?
 
I believe .... Cam Adjuster Control Valve N205 is ok bc i see no errors on dash ... so i rulled out this part...
so i divided the work that can be done in 3 steps:

step1 :
-replace HPFP with the old one that still worked but had cracked sensor and see whats with the noise
-do an engine oil pressure test and see if problem is oil pressure related or not? (bc oil pressure actually tensions the chain)

step2: (if step 1 did not work)
-replace chain tensioneer for the second time (as maybe it was faulty or smth?!?) (50EURO)
-replace timing chain (costs 30EURO)
-of course have to replace the Cam Chain Cover Gasket 06D 103 121 B (its cheap anyhow)

step3: (if no success with step2)
-open it again and replace Cam Chain Adjuster (costs 500EURO+)
 
The more i think about it the more i think you have the std high pressure injector rattle, your old HPFP was probably a bit tired and now you have fitted a new one the rattle is a bit more prominent..
 
paddy said:
The more i think about it the more i think you have the std high pressure injector rattle, your old HPFP was probably a bit tired and now you have fitted a new one the rattle is a bit more prominent..
Click to expand...

Very much ty for help! Mechanik will put the old hpfp in just to see differences.
so i tried to pinpoint sound with a long screwdriver ... not much success except it is in that area.
I noticed engine is a bit shaky/rough at idle when grinding sound is on.

Here is a better video sound clip (at 10 sec into the video the grinding stops for brief and then restarts)
 
Last edited:
I cant believe your mechanic would have changed your tensioner and left a knackered chain on so you have to presume its not chain or tensioner ??
 
paddy said:
I cant believe your mechanic would have changed your tensioner and left a knackered chain on so you have to presume its not chain or tensioner ??
Click to expand...
he inspected the chain and it had no slack... but i believe the chain can be tight in one are and loose in another so ...
chain is cheap also so i am sorry it was not replaced first time
 
FOUND A LITTLE INFO
it seems that the plastic part of the tensioner that is against the chain, breaks. Once this happens, the piston in the tensioner extends as far as it can go which causes oil pressure to drop (causing the oil light to come on or the gauge to read low).
i remember i thought i had oil leaks and put more oil in the engine... then had a 2000km trip.
 
-Mechanik could not make an oil pressure test bc he says there was not enough space to insert the gauge. He says the computer shows oil pressure ok.
-he replaced the HPFP with my old high pressure fuel pump and same noise
so ...step 1 half done
 
I get similar rattle from my 2005 2.0T. Apparently it's normal?


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
Put a long screwdriver and if noise comes the end of engine near hpfp ..it is chain rattle ver not ok
 
Get a new mechanic and get the oil pressure tested. The computer does not tell anything about the oil pressure on idle. My AXX engine had only o.5 bar oil pressure on idle, no warning lights.
 
Get it booked in to an Audi dealership to be sorted - it's going to cost you money either way. I wouldn't hold much confidence in your current mechanic.

And don't drive it until it's fixed.
 
ty! won't drive it anymore , in a few days will replace the chain+tensioneer again
and will find another mechanik for oil pressure test!
 
step1 : COMPLETE , 2.5 bar at idle, 4.6bar at 2-3k rpm (looks very good)
DONE -replace HPFP with my old one that had cracked sensor and see whats with the noise (like i suspected hpfp has nothing to do with this noise)
DONE -do an engine oil pressure test and see if problem is oil pressure related or not? (bc oil pressure actually tensions the chain)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
step2: In progress
-replace chain tensioneer for the second time (as maybe it was faulty or smth?!?) (50EURO)
-replace timing chain (costs 30EURO)
-of course have to replace the Cam Chain Cover Gasket 06D 103 121 B (its cheap anyhow - 7EURO)

step3: (if no success with step2)
-open it again and replace Cam Chain Adjuster (costs 500EURO+)
 
step1 : COMPLETE , 2.5 bar at idle, 4.6bar at 2-3k rpm (looks very good)
DONE -replace HPFP with my old one that had cracked sensor and see whats with the noise (like i suspected hpfp has nothing to do with this noise)
DONE -do an engine oil pressure test and see if problem is oil pressure related or not? (bc oil pressure actually tensions the chain)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
step2: COMPLETE
-replace chain tensioneer for the second time (as maybe it was faulty or smth?!?) (50EURO)
-replace timing chain (costs 30EURO)
-of course have to replace the Cam Chain Cover Gasket 06D 103 121 B (its cheap anyhow - 7EURO)

The screw head .. holding the Cam Shaft Chain Adjuster was distroyed and was left in the cam.
Solution was to pull out intake cam ,in order to fit the new chain+tensioneer...
Job done, now there is no chain rattle noise and engine works fine...

however new problem appeared:
code P000A - 'A' Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1
my timing is bad, probably the intake cam needs to be moved 1 tooth.
 
clear that code and see if it returns. The camshaft is dependant on oil presure for its speed of position so it may just be a one off fault with all the other work you have done.
I get that code if the oil drops to the bottom mark on the dipstick or when the oil light comes on. It goes as soon as i top the oil up.
 
Finally i fixed my timing. Told my mechanik to open it up and i myself will set the chain on what link i want. He got the intake camshaft our and i set it correct and no more problems.
Thank to this guy who posted these videos. Love u.


To set the cams the right way we have to look at both cams so here i add some pictures:
This is the "adjuster". This part is fixed on the exhaust cam.
As u can see there are 5 screws that hold this part together and those screws u can see on the otherside too.
Notice the MARK (a lined groove). Use a red marker to mark on the side of the adjuster (like on photo)
06f 109 088 j



Fist dot is done... moving to second one
44


Next mark the chain and start mounting the engine back together!
20171217 195229
 
Last edited:
So to recap the parts u need :
-do an engine oil pressure test and see if problem is oil pressure related or not?
-chain tensioneer (50EURO)
-timing chain (30EURO)
-Cam Chain Cover Gasket 06D 103 121 B ( 7EURO)
- BOLT for the Cam Chain Adjuster (4 EURO) (my bolt remained stuck there bc it was reused 1 time)
- seals for the Cam Chain Cover (pack of 3 =40 EUR) (do not forget to replace these- here is a photo to ilustrate where the seals are )
OBS: my mechanik could not get the adjuster out so we took the intake cam out. In this case u need some sealing paste too.
20171119 220304
 
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in previous post i talk about the seals for the Cam Chain Cover. They are little metal o-rings and their part number is 06F198107A
Da11cccff05dd947
 
Wow! that was a long job but at at least you got to the bottom of it. Probably the bottom of your wallet as well.
 
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