Anti friction additive

S

SteveSAS

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Hi Guys,

I was very impressed with a demonstration that I watched at a car show this year for a product called Faher.co.uk
They sell different additives to use with engine oil (normal or high mileage) fuel & chain lubricants. The demonstration was of a running bearing & weighted pressure with good quality oil before bearing stopped due to friction. Then with a tiny bit of this additive with extra weight applied it kept it running.
It was such a convincing demonstration (I don't easily get taken in by these) that I was considering buying some for when I next do the oil change on the S3. Also maybe some fuel additive as well.
Could there be any downsides to this? Could there be any potential problems adding this to my usual full sythnthetic 5/40 oil I use?

Cheers Steve
 
Forget your usual Platinium 502.00 505.01 and start using LongLife 504.00 507.00 as it has higher oil performance parameters including wear .
 
Apparently no oil you can buy has better anti wear properties than this anti friction additive. As I said this was a really good demonstration with pressure & rolling bearings & was hard to not be convinced seeing how the bearing under load stopped turning & just by adding a small amount of this anti friction product it kept on rotating.
So it's not about which oil but anyone can see any problems with adding a product like 'Faher' to our engines could cause?
 
ANTI-FRICTION PTFE




is an oil based anti-friction treatment with added TEFLON compatible with all types of lubricants, which uses the oil as a carrier to treat the metal components. When the product makes contact with metal microporous creates a 15 micron thick film giving an effective protection against wear with amazing results, including : High effective protection against wear, prolongs the life of your engine making running much smoother and starting easier, more MPG which can be further enhanced when used in conjunction with the appropriate fuel treatment.

Increases cylinder compression and reinstates areas of excessive wear which contributes to returning your engine towards its original engineering tolerances.

Improves: Cold starting and running at low speeds and high loads.

Provides anti-friction by up to 90% prolonging the life of your equipment or engine.

Reduces excess fuel consumption, temperature, noise, vibration, wear, oil consumption and emissions.
 
I've not heard of this particular one although I have heard of both Forte and Liqui Moly - both of whom also provide compelling marketing presentations. These additives used to be more popular years ago when engine oil was more basic. Since the modern, fully synthetic oils have come on the scene with their own range of additives - these extra additives do not seem as popular. Personally, I do not use them but I do prefer to change oil regularly rather than observing a longlife regime. Engine oil (and any additives) will still be introduced to wear debris, carbon, heat and the obnoxious & corrosive chemicals associated with combustion.
 
Personally I wouldn't use additives... no real guaranty that they will work well with modern oils...

Considering how much money and effort goes into modern oils these days (longlife service schedules excluded of course) regular oil changes with decent brand oil is going to be a much better option...

People tend to treat oil changes as an inconvenient expense but they are probably one of the most important things we have to do to our cars...

I change the oil every 12 months on the S3 without fail (even though I do less than 4k miles a year) and every 6 months on my A2 daily (currently on 197k miles and averaging 12k miles a year)...

<tuffty/>
 
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Bearings in an engine deal with very little normal load or variation of (provided clearances are right). They're all under shear.

The demonstration from what you described is good bit of marketing but in terms of direct application to the surfaces in a rotating assembly, it is not.
 
I nearly bought a hoover in the 80's which could hoover, and spray your car and also nearly joined a pyramid selling scheme as a "supervisor salesman"
 
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Many years ago I had a MK2 1.6SR Astra. With a good old carburettor and choke. None of this ECU fangled stuff :) . I changed the oil and filter and added some slick 50 whilst I was at it. I did nothing else but when I came to start the car and it had warmed up it was idling around 150 RPM higher than it had previously. I had never noticed this on any previous oil change and I was using the same oil filter etc I had used before. The only difference was the slick 50. I had to slow the idle down on the engine and It did seem to run a bit better from then on.
Slick 50 contains PTFE and it did seem to make a difference. On a modern car you wouldn't notice the difference in idle as the ECU corrects the fuelling automatically to control the speed. I haven't tried it in any of the newer cars I have had.
 
In the SA we also have a brand called Prolong. I think it is also in the UK not sure .The engineering shops complains about using additives like this as they are struggling to cut the cranks. It is to hard for the bit apparently.
 
Use decent oil, change regularly... the end...

<tuffty/>
 
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I use this. It "bathes" by engine every mile :wub:

 
<tuffty/> said:
Use decent oil, change regularly... the end...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Ok, got it, so Tuffty I currently use the Quantum 5/40 full sythn & change every 12 months, but others have said the 5/30 longlife is better protection. Which do you use mate?
 
SteveSAS said:
Ok, got it, so Tuffty I currently use the Quantum 5/40 full sythn & change every 12 months, but others have said the 5/30 longlife is better protection. Which do you use mate?
Click to expand...
Millers nano drive 5w40 or currently fuchs pro s 5w40... Both ester based oils

<tuffty/>
 
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I drove 12km without engine oil with in my TDI after i hit some street signs trying to avoid crashing into a moose. Somehow they got stuck under the car and broke the oil pan.

I had previously used xado engine treatment for past 5 oil changes which also is anti-friction additive. After arriving at home replaced oil pan and filled her up again there was no difference in VCDS logs nor damage after inspecting camshaft.

I know that in military we used similar stuff but they never told us what exactly we put there.

If i had not used that xado stuff i wouldn't risked it.

Regulary use 2T oil in fuel as additive to help lubricate injector pump as nowdays the fuel is awfully dry due to these euro regulators.
 
Oh my word you drove 12km with the oil light on .

What is wrong with these people ?
 
<tuffty/> said:
Millers nano drive 5w40 or currently fuchs pro s 5w40... Both ester based oils

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Would you say that either 5/40 or 5/30 grade is ok for a 95k miler with a stage one map as long as they are VW 505-507 compatible?
Cheers
 
SteveSAS said:
Would you say that either 5/40 or 5/30 grade is ok for a 95k miler with a stage one map as long as they are VW 505-507 compatible?
Cheers
Click to expand...
I am sure Gaz will pitch in here with spider webs and centiwotsits but...

Personally I am not a fan of 5W30 no matter how awesome it is at being an oil... I do use it in the wifes 1.25 non turbo fiesta as it 'suits' the engine... in a turbo engine? not so much...

Personal preference is 5w40 of a suitable spec... as I mentioned in a previous post I use ester based oils... ester based oils are (apparently) better at withstanding higher temps and some other random stuff (which I am not massively nerdy about) but in short means its alleged to be a better oil..

Lots of people I know in motorsport use ester based oils so while I doubt I will push my engine quite as hard as that its nice to know the margin is there..

I prefer the thicker weighted 5w40 oil over 5w30 as pretty much all the cars I have worked on or see come through bills will be 'driven'... 20v turbo's in any guise have a tendency to run hot and a thicker oil is just more appropriate...

Regular oil changes is also key of course...

I am sure a decent brand correct spec 5w30 oil is better than joe blogs brand of 5w40... but decent 5w40 oil and regular changes will be the only thing I would personally use on a 20v turbo

<tuffty/>
 
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5W40 racing ester #1
5W30 504.00 507.00 #2
5W40 502.00 505.00 505.01 #3

Between 2 and 3 there is virtually no difference in high temp viscosity between these two particular oils and should be considered the same thickness 12 and 13 centiStokes whereas technically it could be 9.30 to 16.29 .

Plus as identified by VW who's oil spec it is #2 is superior to 3 in multiple oil performance peramiters .

Oil basestock groups and additive package is what gives an oil it's quality not thickness .
 
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Still waiting for the obligatory spiderwebs which show everyone is doing it wrong...
 
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Gazwould said:
5W40 racing ester #1
5W30 504.00 507.00 #2
5W40 502.00 505.00 505.01 #3

Between 2 and 3 there is virtually no difference in high temp viscosity between these two particular oils and should be considered the same thickness 12 and 13 centiStokes whereas technically it could be 9.30 to 16.29 .

Plus as identified by VW who's oil spec it is #2 is superior to 3 in multiple oil performance peramiters .

Oil basestock groups and additive package is what gives an oil it's quality not thickness .
Click to expand...
Hi Gaz, questions for the oil expert. Why does 5w40 show up for the 1.8T engine & 5w30 show up for the 2.0 TFSI engine in all the oil searches ie Opie Oils?
Also does an oil expiry date stamped on a bottle mean it's no good if never been opened and seal is unbroken?
Lastly, is it bad to say mix half say Titan 5w30 spec oil with Shell Helux 5w30 spec, both showing the same VW 505. 507 ??? If so why? Is it down to the different makes using different additives and therefore mixing will render each oil ineffective?

Thanks
 
Alot of it is to do with handbooks and age of vehicles going strictly by manufacturers specs at the time .

Handbooks are frozen in time whilst oil technology moves forward, for instance a 2003 vehicle won't have 504.00 507.00 in the handbook as the spec came out in 2004 .

Oil bottles usually have a manufactured date and is said to be good for 6 years .

Mixing two oils of same grade and oil spec regardless of manufacturer is fine.
 
Gazwould said:
Handbooks are frozen in time whilst oil technology moves forward, for instance a 2003 vehicle won't have 504.00 507.00 in the handbook as the spec came out in 2004 .
Click to expand...
Totally agree. You find this is more of a problem with classic cars. The manufacturer's technicians decide an oil (for engines and gearboxes) when the car comes off the production line and as time goes by, nobody is prepared to overrule/update the recommendation. For example many BMW Z1 owners still insist on using 10W-40 semi-synthetic as that was the trendy/modern oil when the cars were made. :redface new:
 
Like a chap on here with a 2001 S6 using 5W30 Castrol Magnatec 502.00 when he could be using 504.00 .

And a 1.9 130 PD diesel chap getting it wrong which is easy and selecting a 502.00 505.00 non PD oil .
 
Gazwould said:
Like a chap on here with a 2001 S6 using 5W30 Castrol Magnatec 502.00 when he could be using 504.00 .

And a 1.9 130 PD diesel chap getting it wrong which is easy and selecting a 502.00 505.00 non PD oil .
Click to expand...

The ****** hide of them...
 
Gazwould said:
Alot of it is to do with handbooks and age of vehicles going strictly by manufacturers specs at the time .

Handbooks are frozen in time whilst oil technology moves forward, for instance a 2003 vehicle won't have 504.00 507.00 in the handbook as the spec came out in 2004 .

Oil bottles usually have a manufactured date and is said to be good for 6 years .

Mixing two oils of same grade and oil spec regardless of manufacturer is fine.
Click to expand...

Ok Gaz, so just to clarify I have come by some free 1 litre bottles of oil in my job collecting cars lol. Instead of buying my usual Quantum platinum 5w40 I will use these freebies up when I do an oil change next week. I have 2 litres Fuchs Titan Gt1, 2 litres of Shell Helix Ultra and 1 litre of Havoline Ultra V, all of which are VW 504 / 507 spec.

Cheers
 
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see if you can buy a product in UK called Morey's Oil Stabiliser .. we get it here in New Zealand and it's the dogs ******** lol
 
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