Belgian S3

redelijk ver vandaan, hoewel ik regelmatig in middelkerke ben. stuur me ff een pm anders
 
JohnDuh said:
The vacuum has been measured to be OK.
Click to expand...

Is that intake mani vacuum? Not sure how likely this is, but false air can be drawn in under vacuum. I know my car had several split pipes in the brake servo vacuum supply, might be worth checking out.
 
Erikn89nl said:
Is that intake mani vacuum? Not sure how likely this is, but false air can be drawn in under vacuum. I know my car had several split pipes in the brake servo vacuum supply, might be worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Yes, measured at one of the many mani connections.
I'll have another go tonight. Hopefully with some diagnostic software.

Can somebody tell me where to look for lambda, throttle position, and anything else interesting.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Ok, finally got the diagnostic software going. Turns out you can't run it in a virtual Windows under Ubuntu and there's no windows 10 drivers for a VAS5054. In the end I dug up an old laptop with winXP and lo and behold.

I'm guessing the MAF wiring is shot since there's a new MAF in there. Can anybody help me with the pinout and possibly tell me where the wires go so I can look for where they're shorted/interrupted?

For the throttle valve, the error only shows up when doing the 060 routine. Not when the engine is running. Guess I'll get a new one as well or are there any things I need to look at before changing it?
It has been removed and cleaned mind you.

Finally progress....
4ed071813f0fe53f47a6cebb6338e67e.jpg


Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Trying to get to the bottom of this MAF story. This is what I measure (battery minus as reference)

Engine off / ignition off
Pin 2 0v 19 ohm
Pin 3 0v 17 ohm
Pin 4 5v
Pin 5 0v 10k ohm

Engine off / ignition on
Pin 2 0
Pin 3 0
Pin 4 5
Pin 5 0

Engine on / ignition on
Pin 2 14v
Pin 3 0v
Pin 4 5v
Pin 5 0v

This all seems rather good to me.

Can somebody explain me what the 49 in a box means in the wiring diagram? AFAIK, there should be 12v here at some point, but I don't know where it comes from.
=> figured out the 49 :)
For those in the dark like me, it's a line number reference. Line numbers are at the bottom of every page, in my case 64. So you go looking at line number 49 on earlier page and there you'll find the 64, meaning the wire continues there.
So the MAF 12v is switched by the J299, secondary air pump relay.

Now let's check the signal wires to the ecu. I'll report back with measurements of those.
<rant>
Who in his right mind buries the ECU under wipers that haven't come off in 17 years. Now I need to buy another tool..... Damn you audi
</rant>
 
Last edited:
Managed to measure the wires to the Maf and they all check out. 0 ohm resistance.

Now I'm really getting desperate. Any other ideas?

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
so you have no boost? and a rough idle? what have you already changed/tested/checked on the car?
try to do a emission test, so you know its over or underfueling
 
NickVC said:
so you have no boost? and a rough idle? what have you already changed/tested/checked on the car?
try to do a emission test, so you know its over or underfueling
Click to expand...
A bit more than that, I have no power and massive missfires at higher rpm, like in not driveable at all.
I've checked the following
- vacuum : measured and stable at idle
- fuel pressure : ok at idle, climbing with rpm
I've changed following parts
- fuel filter
- fuel pump replaced by higher output from deathswerks
- pvc system all bottom parts and valves replaced
- DV valve
- hockey puck valve
- spark plugs
- injectors have been ultrasonically cleaned

Now I have the above errors.


Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Erikn89nl said:
Is the maf confirmed to be working properly, i.e. on another car?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately not yet. Bought it new, but I've read that's not a guarantee.

I'll try to log block 2 to see if the values make sense. Alternatively I could try to get it in the TT of my GF, but I'm not sure it's the same as the S3 one.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
forget the maf, won't be the problem. you need to find out wether it's running to rich or to low. it will give you a lead to what may be the fault.
bad idle suggest to much fuel. check the egt sensor for bad connection, oxidated connectors.
 
NickVC said:
forget the maf, won't be the problem. you need to find out wether it's running to rich or to low. it will give you a lead to what may be the fault.
bad idle suggest to much fuel. check the egt sensor for bad connection, oxidated connectors.
Click to expand...
Will have a look, if Ill have a dig around there. Am I right when looking at block 31 for lambda?

Do you think this scenario makes sense : MAF values are off because the throttle valve isn't opening or closing according to engine commands, therefore the ECU thinks the MAF is faulty while it's actually giving the correct values?
 
Throttle body aint the problem i guess, cause if there would be a problem with the actuar inside, the TPS should give data back, wich would give a dtc regarding the TB itself, not the maf. Maf fault codes will mostly be there when you have a cracked turbo pipe or a boost leak.

lambda sensor will not be the problem imo, as its just a 'fine tune device', and the car won't run that bad because of a faulty sensor, weither i't be the first or second sensor. EGT sensor will give more of an impact to the amount of fuel.
 
JohnDuh said:
the throttle valve isn't opening or closing according to engine commands
Click to expand...

Could you confirm this by taking the hose off the TB and visually checking the valve movement? I'm not sure if this would work without the engine running, since mine is cable-operated... (for now)
 
Erikn89nl said:
Could you confirm this by taking the hose off the TB and visually checking the valve movement? I'm not sure if this would work without the engine running, since mine is cable-operated... (for now)
Click to expand...

I'm planning on doing that this weekend, detach the lot and activate block 60 to see what it does.
 
Ok this is face-palm time here.

I found some time to work on the car and decided to get to the bottom of this MAF story. When I wanted to take the airbox out of the car I noticed it was usually loose. A quick feel around and I found a nice rip in the TIP near the turbo inlet.
Guess I finally found the problem.

Which brings me to the next question. What TIP should I get? I've seen the V3 of badger5, which looks promising. Only one problem, my car is LHD and it says there are some modifications to be done to get it to fit. Can anybody tell me what's needed?
If it really doesn't fit, what's the best TIP for my K04?

I'll now go face-palm a bit more. At least the car will have had a fair bit of maintenance and should run better for it.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
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There have been a few LHD owners to fit them, you'll have to give it a search and maybe contact them. It's definitely worth the effort to get one fitted tho.
I'm wondering if the 100% silicone may be a better option than the billet one due to more flex. Just a thought
 
superkarl said:
There have been a few LHD owners to fit them, you'll have to give it a search and maybe contact them. It's definitely worth the effort to get one fitted tho.
I'm wondering if the 100% silicone may be a better option than the billet one due to more flex. Just a thought
Click to expand...
i did a search and the only thing blocking seems to be some brake lines,right?
Im thinking i could get away with adding some protctor between them.
 
JohnDuh said:
i did a search and the only thing blocking seems to be some brake lines,right?
Im thinking i could get away with adding some protctor between them.
Click to expand...

When looking at the pictures Bill posted some time ago, it seems like a bit too tight a fit. So I decided to go with some Swedish silicone from do88.
Here's a link to the pipe in case somebody is looking for it : https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/audi-s3-8l-99-03-turbo-inlet-hose.html

As soon as it arrives I'll update here.
 
Went ahead and installed it over the weekend. I'm rather happy I didn't go with the 80mm.

Here's a picture of the ample room I had tightening the jubilee clip :)
a95deadb799ee59255f11dcab0188b3e.jpg


Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Erikn89nl said:
So is she all fixed now? :)
Click to expand...
Should be, I didn't have enough time to rebuild everything.
And believe it or not, but I still need to change the oil-sensor and filter (an old problem).

Should have some time for that tomorrow eve ... fingers crossed :)
 
ok, she's all back together. Went for a test drive and the red brake symbol showed up with 3 beeps.
Looked it up and it seems it would indicate my brake fluid is low, which turns out is right. Not so low that I couldn't make it to the shop to buy some, so drove on.
A couple of minutes later after my first above 4000rpm pull, the red engine oil light came on. At this time there was nowhere to stop so I drove on for a couple of hundred meters to the shop. Checked oil level an all is fine, so bought the brake fluid an drove home like a granny on valium. Unfortunately by the time I got home, I could hear a familiar metallic clicking sound from the engine. So I guess I fubared the main bearings.

I already got the oil pickup line, so next free time will be spent removing the sump and checking out the damage the low oil pressure did.

I'm getting fed up with this ... one problem fixed, now another pops up. I'm seriously leaning towards fixing and selling here. Anybody want a 99 S3?
 
tcg said:
Had the dreaded low oil pressure problem myself,engine rattling up top.

Changed oil pump,cleaned pick up pipe and replaced some PCV pipes & hockey puck...sorted out the problem but did starve my turbo at the same time so that had to be replaced but may have been on the way out as 135000 miles...

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...ad-my-baby-is-home.261997/page-8#post-2935127
Click to expand...
Did you end up damaging anything in your engine with the low oil pressure?
The turbo I believe was on the way out since the previous owner changed the turbo at roughly the same mileage in my car.

How can I check for damage done? Anybody know of a write-up?

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
 
can be the timing chain tensionor you are hearing
 
NickVC said:
can be the timing chain tensionor you are hearing
Click to expand...
That would be good news. ;-)
Do all engines have that chain, or is it only vvt heads?

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
 
check youtube, movies enough to give you an example off the sound it makes when a chain tensioner is loose
 
audi upgrades
JohnDuh said:
Did you end up damaging anything in your engine with the low oil pressure?
Click to expand...

Just the turbo on mine,it died on the second test run after changing the oil pump,etc.

When I had the problem it was a seriously load rattling coming from the top of the engine,inside the cam cover,I would say.

I feared the worst from the noise but rest of the engine was fine.
 
tcg said:
Just the turbo on mine,it died on the second test run after changing the oil pump,etc.

When I had the problem it was a seriously load rattling coming from the top of the engine,inside the cam cover,I would say.

I feared the worst from the noise but rest of the engine was fine.
Click to expand...
mhhh ... the rattling in mine wasn't horrible, just some mechanical clicking over normal engine sound. Hopefully the eninge will be OK.
I'll try to report back on sunday :)
 
Ok, progress of the day. Got the car on jack stands in my box. Hot under the car to inspect the bolts that need undoing. All went well until I saw THE bolt. Everybody who's remover an oil pan knows what one. Proceeded to try to get access and failed.
Put the car down, filled up the brake fluid, and I'm now searching amazon.

Not a very good day.

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
 
I utterly detest that bolt. I have had the displeasure of dealing with it twice so far, and I am already dreading the next time...
 
I found these helpful when removing the sump...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK...Drive-200mm-/140946370201?hash=item20d10eee99

...then to fit the awkward bolts back in I used a 3/8 inch extension bar with a 'wobble' universal joint on the end.I then wound some masking tape round the universal joint up past the end of the socket so it was less 'wobbly' and also helped keep the bolt as straight as possible when re-fitting.

Hope that makes sense,although I have to admit I 'lost' the awkward one in the flywheel housing on re-fit and lost several kilos sweating to get it out eventually :blush:
 
tcg said:
I found these helpful when removing the sump...
Click to expand...
Thats what I used, except mine had a longer shaft and a handle on the end. Could just make the awkward angle and the bolt came undone just before the crazy amount of torque snapped the tool in half...
 
I ordered something similar this morning : Facom r120a and r240a,with a bitset.


Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
 
Managed to get some time under the car this weekend. I think I might have found the cause of my pressure trouble.
I'll let the pictures speak....

Also gave the oil pan a good scrubbing. So now fresh oil is needed and hopefully we'll be driving again soon.
2f72c3de8e34099b4293246fc5b24434.jpg
016c418ce8c241f1b2da0da93f4ec4cf.jpg
2c0734ed7cd80518a5f178ffca7cc407.jpg


Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
 
Might be worth changing the oil pump whilst you've got the chance mate.It would be a shame to put it all back together and have to fumble about with that awkward bolt again :yes:
 
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