Not another Nogaro!!!

OK so i feel like an update is needed. The tear down process was relatively fast... everything you need to break apart is there!

The build up... however... is not so fast! LOL I thought I had everything then came across things that i'd either forgotten or not even considered. From big to small parts. As usual - this is going to be told through photos.... sorry if i kill your bandwidth!

Building up the 9.5:1 CR stroker pistons and connecting rods.
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The state of my old rods...
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Finishing off the port & polish
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Ring gapping - this is a slow process! Some good background tunes were definitely on for this part!
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Bearings on
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ARP cam studs and ACL calico main bearings
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Hung up for a bit of a wash & refresh
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Cracking open the gearbox - this one was from the daily that had no 1st and 2nd gear
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Bolts were easy enough to get off. Cracking the gearbox open however - needed many good whacks with the mallet!
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I could feel this straight away as soon as i put my fingers in between the casings - the common broken shifter fork
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Taking a reference picture before removing the stacks... dunno why but they came out with this side of the housing instead of staying on the other side i had to build it up "backwards"
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My method of keeping the part that swings about in place while putting the sealing plate on
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Uprated 1,2 & 3,4
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Turning my attention to my transfer case - which i had noticed was leaking with a line of dried fluid on my downpipe... this nut... is a bitch!
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The torque that's meant to go on this is something like 470Nm!!! ummmm HOW!?
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Think i found my issue. Don't think the seal should be folded over like that! LOL
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Putting these into their new home
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Had to work on shaving a bit off of the sump (can see how i've angled the top "hump" down) because it wouldn't sit right with the ARP main cap studs. Using the left over carbide bits from the porting job!
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Turning the attention to the brakes
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While all the above was happening the cylinder head was at the engineers getting guides and valve seats cut... lucky i kept myself busy because 1 week turned into 3.5 :(

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Putting in the seals
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I stopped hitting them down when i heard the sound change to a metallic clunk
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My method of keeping the valves in their guides as i had to flip the head while fitting the springs and collets
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This part was also a ballache - but you got into the groove (LOL!) and i got faster after about 4 exhaust valves were done
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New OEM lifters
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Undoing the cam caps from the BAM head from noggie's original engine. So so so clean!
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Of course... this breaks!
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Some marking on the lifters
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Removing the threaded stud for the manual tensioner
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034 transition manifold spacer
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Bottom right stud too short.
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So i stole a "short" stud from the head of the BAM
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Meanwhile - flick over to suspension bushes and a bit of engine bay cleaning
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Then... this kit comes in! I've sold off the gt2871 for a 3076 t3 instead after being convniced by old mate with a 3582 so ditch the smaller setup...
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Freeze the shaft to interference fit the compressor wheel
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Dowel pinning the crank sprocket
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I ended up drilling into the ekagrip so have that + dowel pins to hold the sprocket in place... hope that holds up!
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This part is NOT FUN! I was definitely not able to get the extra 90 degrees specified by IE. My bar was just bending after about 15 degrees of extra torque... phht! +90 degrees my ***!
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Matching gasket to T3 mani
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Turbine housing needed much more work!
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Manifold flange plate also needed transitioning
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Gone EWG :yahoo:
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Making sure the oil filter housing is clean and fresh with a new gasket
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EKAgrip for the cam sprocket
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How i kept the sprocket in place as i didn't have the proper tool - jam a hammer and cardboard in up against the "nipple"
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Finally timed up and ready for this side to be covered up!!!
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... and that's how everything stands at the moment.

I'm waiting for the balancing on the turbo to be done, after that i need to mock up the lines and get all that connected and sorted.

Then the engine can come off of the stand for install of clutch kit.

More regular updates should be coming again :rockwoot:
 
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Mocking up the lines - all of them look ok except obviously the oil drain....

Any suggestions welcome! I was thinking a 45degree coming out of the turbo to be able to clear the wastegate port (it should work as when i put the 90degree in it fits and can be tightened whereas the straight doesn't fit)

If it doesn't look ok please let me know what to fix up and i'll get it sorted.
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superkarl said:
I would be using hard line past the wastegate personally.
What is that braided stuff?
Click to expand...

It's a steel woven -10 line

I was thinking maybe get a custom hard line made to clear the manifold then join to the -10 at the sump...

How did you run yours ?
 
Hi Ian, your black timing belt cover, did it go over and clip flush with that manual pulley on? I had to drill a hole in the cover as my nut made the cover bulge out a bit...maybe just check yours out...
 
Yes I definitely have a strategic hole in that plastic cover because the nut and stud sticks out
 
Decided to tap a nipple onto the compressor housing to feed into the wastegate
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Clutch kit on (yes i made sure it was centred)
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and then.... this happened.... urgh!!! Why i removed that bracket in the first place, i don't know!
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Time-Sert to the rescue
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I changed the old seat belt method with something a little bit more proper...
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And making solid engine/transmission mounts with 60A polyurethane. This was stressful when one of them leaked out of the back! hahaha
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Now the waiting game for these to solidify (i'll put them in in a couple of days) and for ****** 034 oh so special exhaust manifold nuts to come from California (they got shipped to the supplier's forwarder instead of direct to Oz.... grrrrr)
 
IanPG said:
Decided to tap a nipple onto the compressor housing to feed into the wastegate

And making solid engine/transmission mounts with 60A polyurethane. This was stressful when one of them leaked out of the back! hahaha
View attachment 132983

Now the waiting game for these to solidify (i'll put them in in a couple of days) and for ****** 034 oh so special exhaust manifold nuts to come from California (they got shipped to the supplier's forwarder instead of direct to Oz.... grrrrr)
Click to expand...

how harsh will the vibrations be with those solid engine mounts ?
 
Guess I'll find out when I drive!

Our roads aren't as ***** quality as yours though so a setup that may be crashy and harsh over there is actually very firmed and planted over here...
 
The roads here are indeed pretty crap, potholes galore, only reason i asked is when i fitted the poly arb, control arms and dogbone bushes i had massive vibrations for about a month before it eventually settled.
 
Nice build!

Forgive a newbie sticking their oar in(I'm potentially in the market for an 8l S3), but you should not take the boost signal for the wastegate from the turbo itself.

You should take it from the intake manifold to account for pressure drop across the IC. You may find target boost hard to achieve as the wastegate will be reacting to the (usually higher) pressure in the turbo instead of the pressure being seen at the engine inlet :)

If your target boost is 10psi and you have 2psi drop across the IC, your inlet pressure will actually be 8psi when the wastegate opens.
 
Sam_M said:
Nice build!

Forgive a newbie sticking their oar in(I'm potentially in the market for an 8l S3), but you should not take the boost signal for the wastegate from the turbo itself.

You should take it from the intake manifold to account for pressure drop across the IC. You may find target boost hard to achieve as the wastegate will be reacting to the (usually higher) pressure in the turbo instead of the pressure being seen at the engine inlet :)

If your target boost is 10psi and you have 2psi drop across the IC, your inlet pressure will actually be 8psi when the wastegate opens.
Click to expand...

Boost pressure is measured in the post intercooler piping by the map sensor.
The wastegate feed should be taken from pre throttle body, and from the turbo outlet is common and ensures a tidy and compact install

Wastegate actuation is controlled by the N75 which is controlled by the ecu remember. This isn't a dumb mechanical system


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
superkarl said:
Boost pressure is measured in the post intercooler piping by the map sensor.
The wastegate feed should be taken from pre throttle body, and from the turbo outlet is common and ensures a tidy and compact install


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It's common, tidy and compact, but wrong. :)

We should be taking both wastegate feed and boost pressure sensor feed from the same place, post IC to take into account the pressure drop across the IC. The wastegate should be seeing the same boost reading as the boost pressure sensor.

Anyway, the ancient rules of forum newbie status doesn't put me in good standing so I'll leave it at that :)
 
Sam_M said:
It's common, tidy and compact, but wrong. :)

We should be taking both wastegate feed and boost pressure sensor feed from the same place, post IC to take into account the pressure drop across the IC. The wastegate should be seeing the same boost reading as the boost pressure sensor.

Anyway, the ancient rules of forum newbie status doesn't put me in good standing so I'll leave it at that :)
Click to expand...

Ok all these cars are plumbed wrong from the factory and everyone is building them wrong.
I'd phone Audi if I were you and tell them you're onto something


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Factory is one thing, modified is another but who am I to judge? ;)

If you stop and think for a moment you can quickly understand why both the MAP and wastegate signals should be post IC. Should also be a check valve on the boost signal for the wastegate if taken post IC as we don't want the wastegate seeing vacuum.
 
Sam_M said:
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Factory is one thing, modified is another but who am I to judge? ;)

If you stop and think for a moment you can quickly understand why both the MAP and wastegate signals should be post IC. Should also be a check valve on the boost signal for the wastegate if taken post IC as we don't want the wastegate seeing vacuum.
Click to expand...

I can understand why you would think so.
But there is problems with part throttle boost control due to pressure differentials across the throttle. Sometimes this ends up as compressor surge at part throttle because the compressor, that important spiny bit that costs thousands, sees more pressure than the ecu thinks. Hence the highest pressure signal is used closest to the compressor.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thst was my thinking @superkarl and @Sam_M ... re create the factory setup where the pressure from turbo out is pretty close to the turbo itself and is pre TB (which is the small nipple at the charge pipe).

Except. I want my charge pipe free of nipples!

Also if I use pre TB and get a feed close to the turbo then that negates the problem of n75/wastegate seeing vacuum. Running in I will also want to just use boost pressure direct from the turbo so wastegate opens at the spring rate of 14psi - this'll happen quickest if closer to turbo (from my understanding...)

And @Sam_M not barging in at all! I welcome the extra info and food for thought.
 
Dohcwp said:
The roads here are indeed pretty ****, potholes galore, only reason i asked is when i fitted the poly arb, control arms and dogbone bushes i had massive vibrations for about a month before it eventually settled.
Click to expand...

Yeah I remember with fresh dog bone bushes how there were some extra vibrations. Hopefully exhaust note drowns it out. Hahaha
 
Look i'm an engine! Vrrm Vrrrmmm (installing solid engine mounts)
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Getting the loom back in!
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Got exhaust wrap for the mani and DP... this was not as easy as i thought it would be!
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.... AND THEN I WAS ABLE TO DO THIS!!!!
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I'll be back doing these ones again soon!!! :racer:

Back from whence you came... except... better. Much. Much better!
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This was a good bonus! Turbo oil feed fits perfect!!!
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Some wiring i left in the "i'll deal with that later" pile. I forgot to mark where they belong? :(
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I got 2 90˚ heater core fittings so the hose can dodge the intake... but now the hose goes no where near the stock hard piping... any tips???
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Waiting for the big bad turbo to sit on top! Mani has good clearance!
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Tomorrow I wanna get the undercarriage sorted out and torqued up. Would be great to get her back on the ground .... if not tomorrow it'll definitely happen the day after!
 
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you sure are amazing at these S3 shenanigans.

Are you still going to run Pops and Bangs, Anti Lag, No Lift Shift and Hard Launch Control with your immaculate engine? or just a standard 210 AMK map :D
 
so... the plan was foiled as i was missing an air fitting for the vacuum bleeder to bleed clutch and brakes + i discovered one of my CV gaiters is split at the clamp! Off it goes for repairs first thing tomorrow morning.

Stuart B said:
you sure are amazing at these S3 shenanigans.

Are you still going to run Pops and Bangs, Anti Lag, No Lift Shift and Hard Launch Control with your immaculate engine? or just a standard 210 AMK map :D
Click to expand...

I will run with what i have now - the old map with 440cc injectors and on wastegate pressure - till i'm happy with breaking the engine in. Then 1000cc tune + 80mm TB and potentially running up to 28psi.

Will see about the pops and bangs! I do love NLS though. It make driving fast and shifting fast soooo so so much more fun when you don't need to lift your foot up off the clutch! Launches.... hrmmm... kind of don't want to be breaking things so soon after it being built!!!
 
Gotta nut this one out....

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So this fat hard line & connector are almost touching the turbo...
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Suggestions?
 
Amazing attention to detail through this build. Time and effort is admirable to say the least. Top work mate. Hope things come together smoothly for you mate
 
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Smoothly! :sorrow:

There have definitley been a fair share of speed humps and road blocks along the way!

Your problem solving skills are definitley tested doing things like this eh!
 
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So the clearance issue... is less of an issue (but still an issue)
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Here's where i discover the brake booster hard line is also playing "i wanna be a *******"
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Sorted by doing this... it's a bit ghetto but gets it out the way
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Some fire sleeve to help with heat
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And finally the front is back on!!!
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Coolant hoses & aluminium flange upgrade! (i'm pretty sure the kit i received was wrong... some pieces didn't match/too long, and i've not used about 6 lengths of silicone because i literally don't understand how they would fit). Also using the OEM spring clamps = almost impossible to do when updrading to silicone hose!
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And another little issue... how to get this to join back up to the heater core barbs without hose blocking the intake path!?
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AND THEN... wheels touching the ground! Shortly to be raised again because of torquing up the driveshaft bolt.
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Fixing up the coil pack wiring loom with the conduit cover. I strip the tape off of the original to be able to squeeze it into the conduit better. It is a tight fit.
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Scuttle on - now for some plumbing, heatshielding and some other jobs before getting ready to prep for startup!
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Such a nice looking setup.

Those hardlines across the bulkhead are A/C lines are they not? They're alloy, so ~600 degree melting point. Id get creative with a heatshield if i were you.
Does your compressor cover fit? looks awfully close
Good luck making the downpipe haha. Heat shield/wrap EVERYTHING
Did you alter the oil drain?
 
Thanks I was quite happy with the way it's come together. Especially in the engine bay. Didn't expect it to look so good!

Creative heat shielding is defintiely going to be done! There is the fire sleeve, plus the DP is going to get wrapped, there is also a turbo beanie to go on too.

Compressor cover still hits the A/C Hardline if clocked a certain way. not ideal but the way I have it clocked in the pic the part that sticks out (where the bolts go) miss the line.

Oil drain I, gunna just get fabbed up. Old drain line, modded with a 10AN fitting that is going to braided line. Then hopefully a hard line up to the turbo drain (which will have to shoot down through runner loop 4)

I'm so wrecked but excited at the same time. Getting up early to do car building right up until 30 minutes before rushing off for work (repeat for 3 days straight) = exhausted... but chuffed!
 
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How much is the bill...? ££££'s
 
IanPG said:
there is also a turbo beanie to go on too
Click to expand...
Don't bother... just use a piece of the alloy stuff from the cam cover to prevent heat radiating from it..

You want the hotside to be able to radiate a little to prevent heat build up cooking the bearings and tbh most blankets I have seen tend to catch fire or destroy themselves...

Use plenty of the alloy stuff to provide a reflective airgap between the heat source and anything in line of sight of the heat source... no distance is too small... the radiant heat will melt anything it can see...

Be wary of coolant lines and brake pipes... you may think they are protected but the heat will affect fluid within..

Heat management is very important in such a confined space as the S3 engine bay

Do not underestimate the effect heat has

<tuffty/>
 
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<tuffty/> said:
Don't bother... just use a piece of the alloy stuff from the cam cover to prevent heat radiating from it..

You want the hotside to be able to radiate a little to prevent heat build up cooking the bearings and tbh most blankets I have seen tend to catch fire or destroy themselves...

Use plenty of the alloy stuff to provide a reflective airgap between the heat source and anything in line of sight of the heat source... no distance is too small... the radiant heat will melt anything it can see...

Be wary of coolant lines and brake pipes... you may think they are protected but the heat will affect fluid within..

Heat management is very important in such a confined space as the S3 engine bay

Do not underestimate the effect heat has

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...


I've definitely asked for more heatshielding to be made. The fabricator agrees its a must.
I have the line coming from the after run pump running similar to where the stock line ran... next to brake booster line & coolant bottle to block hard line - Do you advise I move this?

Also advised on bigger DV. I've gotten a Turbosmart Big Bubba. That name. LOL

While another person says I don't need one for an interesting point of view...
IMG 3858
 
LMAO!!!... thats funny right there... anti surge has got feck all to do with the function of a DV/BOV...

<tuffty/>
 
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