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What exhaust manifold do you have, apparently the one of BEX engine is larger.
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1.8t Quattro build for keeps.
- Thread starter Samuel c5 Q
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Calum, I took a look for BEX manifolds and couldn't find any on the bay. I removed a spare one to check it for placement of an exhaust gas temperature probe and to observe how the k04-023 hot side would mate up to it.
It isn't possible at all to mate the k04 turbine housing to the longitudinal exhaust manifold. The bolt holes are off compared to the k03 but too close to machine an adapter plate to fix it to the manifold. A flange isn't feasible to weld to it either. The exhaust gas temperature probe will have to be mounted in the turbine housing before the wheel as there is no room for it in the manifold. I had a look at porting options and inspecting the inlet side for both k03 and k04 housings and both are the same size as is the outlet on the manifold, 40mm approx as my verniers aren't accurate. Further down the housings before the wheel is met the channel narrows and the k04 is slightly larger but not by much. I believe porting has made differences for other people but in my case with not having clipped turbine fins I don't think porting will benefit me much if any at all for the hours of work that would be involved. The reason I say this is because of the way the k04 wheel sits against the k03 snail part of the turbo. The k03 snail part of the turbo is quite small compared to the k04's. Also the way, due to the spaces and their shape, that the gases interact with the turbine wheel makes me think that porting will not overcome this restrictive point. I would like to get my hands on a BAM manifold to see if an adapter plate could allow it to fit in the longitudinal engine in a reverse orientation to the s3 or LCR. Clearance against the bulk head and the requirement for new coolant and oil feed and return lines would be the issues as well as charge, intake and down pipe fitment but clearance is the most important.
On a more important note though I've found a turbo that I'm in love with. The TTE 390 by TTE in the vendors section. It's a hybrid k04-064 which doesn't need an adapter plate and makes more torque than a mapped k04-023 on 1.8t everywhere and is only 20bhp down on the same setup over from 2000 rpm to 3000rpm or so. Check the graphs. Brilliant power band.
Progress then is check manifold and housings as above and k03 has a bit of a crack in it so need to do something eventually.
Gas tank and fill pipe removed from donor car.
Petrol flap replaced by one from donor car as Quattro's was rusty.
The fella that had previously matched the awt, remapped me7.5, into the Quattro wasn't able to do it this time even though he had all the pins etc. I had matched the original ecu back in incase the emissions became a problem and I needn't have bothered as the lambda probes were knackered anyway and she still passed with no bother. This ecu was working before with the narrow band loom but I can't see the wideband loom having caused any issues. I have the matching clocks for the awt ecu from the donor car so I will see if it will run with them in otherwise I have given myself a bit of work to do to get a wideband ecu that works and I can clone my map to it or if the immobilizer chip in the awt ecu is faulty then I need it replaced.
I opened the ecu up and there is nothing obvious damage wise.
It isn't possible at all to mate the k04 turbine housing to the longitudinal exhaust manifold. The bolt holes are off compared to the k03 but too close to machine an adapter plate to fix it to the manifold. A flange isn't feasible to weld to it either. The exhaust gas temperature probe will have to be mounted in the turbine housing before the wheel as there is no room for it in the manifold. I had a look at porting options and inspecting the inlet side for both k03 and k04 housings and both are the same size as is the outlet on the manifold, 40mm approx as my verniers aren't accurate. Further down the housings before the wheel is met the channel narrows and the k04 is slightly larger but not by much. I believe porting has made differences for other people but in my case with not having clipped turbine fins I don't think porting will benefit me much if any at all for the hours of work that would be involved. The reason I say this is because of the way the k04 wheel sits against the k03 snail part of the turbo. The k03 snail part of the turbo is quite small compared to the k04's. Also the way, due to the spaces and their shape, that the gases interact with the turbine wheel makes me think that porting will not overcome this restrictive point. I would like to get my hands on a BAM manifold to see if an adapter plate could allow it to fit in the longitudinal engine in a reverse orientation to the s3 or LCR. Clearance against the bulk head and the requirement for new coolant and oil feed and return lines would be the issues as well as charge, intake and down pipe fitment but clearance is the most important.
On a more important note though I've found a turbo that I'm in love with. The TTE 390 by TTE in the vendors section. It's a hybrid k04-064 which doesn't need an adapter plate and makes more torque than a mapped k04-023 on 1.8t everywhere and is only 20bhp down on the same setup over from 2000 rpm to 3000rpm or so. Check the graphs. Brilliant power band.
Progress then is check manifold and housings as above and k03 has a bit of a crack in it so need to do something eventually.
Gas tank and fill pipe removed from donor car.
Petrol flap replaced by one from donor car as Quattro's was rusty.
The fella that had previously matched the awt, remapped me7.5, into the Quattro wasn't able to do it this time even though he had all the pins etc. I had matched the original ecu back in incase the emissions became a problem and I needn't have bothered as the lambda probes were knackered anyway and she still passed with no bother. This ecu was working before with the narrow band loom but I can't see the wideband loom having caused any issues. I have the matching clocks for the awt ecu from the donor car so I will see if it will run with them in otherwise I have given myself a bit of work to do to get a wideband ecu that works and I can clone my map to it or if the immobilizer chip in the awt ecu is faulty then I need it replaced.
I opened the ecu up and there is nothing obvious damage wise.
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Sorry forgot to upload TTE 390 1.8t power graph. Also hope my powergraph compilation loads ok.
Folks mine loaded ok but the TTE 390 one won't as the file name is too long and I can't find the file to change the name. If I figure out to post links I will otherwise it can be found on TTE's vendor page in the TTE 1.8t 390 thread.
Folks mine loaded ok but the TTE 390 one won't as the file name is too long and I can't find the file to change the name. If I figure out to post links I will otherwise it can be found on TTE's vendor page in the TTE 1.8t 390 thread.
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K04-15 is the turbo you need for longitudinal engines K04-23 is for transverse engine BEX exgaust manifold is the same part number but ebds with AH instead of an E.
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Use the manifold you have as it can be improved. Have the manifold in a vice then lie the gasket on top in the correct position, clamp it at either end with a nut and bolt to keep it centred. Use a marker and draw on any part of the manifold that is smaller than the gasket, remove the gasket and then set to with a tungsten carbide burr to remove the excess material, once you have removed all the excess, just go over it again to dress it up and make it as smooth as possible. The same can be done at the manifold exit where it bolts to the turbo.
Calum I'm not so sure that porting will aid my engines performance. Widening the exhaust manifold can increase volume and decrease velocity of the gases causing spool onset to be put back in the rev range and lowering bottom end response. It might help the top end if I clipped the turbine fines but that's not possible. Sorry to seem a bit dismissive of porting of the exhaust but it's just my understanding of the gas behavioural characteristics. I'd love to see some results of the process and if it didn't negatively impact the bottom end response then I'd be happy to port the life out of it. Bill badger has done some porting and applied different surface finishes on the intake manifold with some very good results. He has dynos to prove it so I'd definitely be up for doing the intake manifold.
On the upside I am wrong about the fitting of a k04-022/023 to the longitudinal engines so I may still have to port that manifold after all to make it the same dimensions or similar to a k04 manifold. There is a video on youtube of one mated to a b5 TQS. I just have to figure out how they did it now.
Video title is "A4 B5 k04-022 turbo"
On the upside I am wrong about the fitting of a k04-022/023 to the longitudinal engines so I may still have to port that manifold after all to make it the same dimensions or similar to a k04 manifold. There is a video on youtube of one mated to a b5 TQS. I just have to figure out how they did it now.
Video title is "A4 B5 k04-022 turbo"
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I hear what you're saying and totally understand, if you read part of this post that's what convinced me.
UPDATE - I took the car on a road trip. The difference is amazing.
BEFORE: When cruising on the highway, I could tell when the car was creeping into boost, like when keeping a constant speed up a hill, or encountering headwinds, etc. I was just "aware" of it by the feel of the motor, or something, and I'd look over at the boost gauge, and sure enough, I'd have boost, a couple to five lbs.
NOW: It is so damn smooth it's scary. I'm NOT aware of boost under those situations. It is so smooth and quiet. I'll be cruising along effortlessly and look over and holy cow! 2, 3, 5, 8, up to 10 lbs of boost without awareness. Acceleration to high speeds is accomplished without a lot of "strain" from the engine.
It has been said that this mod can decrease EGT by 200F. I think this may be true as evidenced by my oil temp gauge...
BEFORE: cruising under constant boost (as under a load up repeated hills or cruising at speeds that require constant boost) would very quickly spike the oil temp up to 240+. Also dyno runs, etc.
NOW: I can't get the oil above 230. No matter what I do. Even constant cruising for a long time at 10psi+. The true test will be next track day, hopefully April. Track usage always gets the oil temp up to 260F...
This also may be due in part to switching from 10w-40 to 15w-50, but I guess I'll never know what percent is what. Feeling a lot less like I need extra oil cooling, now.
Bonus is the fact that the oil temperature is reduced by doing this mod, that can only be a good thing.
The whole thread is here if you want to have a look through it. Unfortunately the pics are no longer available thanks to photobucket!
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/v...ained-hp-port-matched-exhaust-pics-added.html
UPDATE - I took the car on a road trip. The difference is amazing.
BEFORE: When cruising on the highway, I could tell when the car was creeping into boost, like when keeping a constant speed up a hill, or encountering headwinds, etc. I was just "aware" of it by the feel of the motor, or something, and I'd look over at the boost gauge, and sure enough, I'd have boost, a couple to five lbs.
NOW: It is so damn smooth it's scary. I'm NOT aware of boost under those situations. It is so smooth and quiet. I'll be cruising along effortlessly and look over and holy cow! 2, 3, 5, 8, up to 10 lbs of boost without awareness. Acceleration to high speeds is accomplished without a lot of "strain" from the engine.
It has been said that this mod can decrease EGT by 200F. I think this may be true as evidenced by my oil temp gauge...
BEFORE: cruising under constant boost (as under a load up repeated hills or cruising at speeds that require constant boost) would very quickly spike the oil temp up to 240+. Also dyno runs, etc.
NOW: I can't get the oil above 230. No matter what I do. Even constant cruising for a long time at 10psi+. The true test will be next track day, hopefully April. Track usage always gets the oil temp up to 260F...
This also may be due in part to switching from 10w-40 to 15w-50, but I guess I'll never know what percent is what. Feeling a lot less like I need extra oil cooling, now.
Bonus is the fact that the oil temperature is reduced by doing this mod, that can only be a good thing.
The whole thread is here if you want to have a look through it. Unfortunately the pics are no longer available thanks to photobucket!
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/v...ained-hp-port-matched-exhaust-pics-added.html
I am studying this now and found a few good websites that seem to make sense and go in to a bit of detail.
They cover head porting and port matching from head to manifold and collectors. The main thing they say is that most modern heads and manifold can flow enough volume wise and that the flow with regards to velocity and pressure of the whole system is achieved by removing seems, rough spots, maybe some bumps, smoothing short radii and surface finish to name a few technical steps that can be employed. The shape of the port is far more important that the size to aid flow and most times only the floor or roof of the port is touched and the other surface and walls are untouched. They say that removing to much material kills the flow and velocity of the gas's.
They cover head porting and port matching from head to manifold and collectors. The main thing they say is that most modern heads and manifold can flow enough volume wise and that the flow with regards to velocity and pressure of the whole system is achieved by removing seems, rough spots, maybe some bumps, smoothing short radii and surface finish to name a few technical steps that can be employed. The shape of the port is far more important that the size to aid flow and most times only the floor or roof of the port is touched and the other surface and walls are untouched. They say that removing to much material kills the flow and velocity of the gas's.
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I didn't touch the head at all only the manifold , opened them up to same size as the gasket and put a chamfer on the openings nothing drastic. Porting heads should be left to the professionals. Plenty of vids on YouTube of heads being done on CNC.
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Bit of a problem here with the matching of ecu to cluster and keys. I put the wideband ecu into the car with the cluster that it was originally with and tried to pair them and adapt the keys. No go with a fault code saying communications issue between ecu and cluster or ecu possibly faulty or chip tune interference and it has been remapped. It gets the same fault with the other set of clocks.
I put the narrow band ecu back in with it's original set of clocks and tried to repair them and it doesn't want to know now and re adapt the keys. The fault of the other one is not present but it says incorrect key programming fault and immobiliser is preventing the car from starting. Both ecus are displaying xxxxxxxx's for the vin number as though they were new ecu but are old.
Both of these ecu have been working in the same car with the same cluster with the radio out of the car. I have the pin for both clusters. The wideband ecu has accepted, via the lock smith, the pin of the Quattro cluster. The Quattro cluster has been changed at some point as it has a 2003 sticker on it and is a 2000 car. The only thing to change is the engine bay loom and then the wideband ecu wasn't happy but the narrowband ecu still worked but now won't. very frustrating as I have the registered rosstech and a gendan lead. It kept saying last night that there were too many communications errors to continue when trying to do a login.
Any body know what the crack is or a good solution apart from a sledgehammer? Thanks.
I put the narrow band ecu back in with it's original set of clocks and tried to repair them and it doesn't want to know now and re adapt the keys. The fault of the other one is not present but it says incorrect key programming fault and immobiliser is preventing the car from starting. Both ecus are displaying xxxxxxxx's for the vin number as though they were new ecu but are old.
Both of these ecu have been working in the same car with the same cluster with the radio out of the car. I have the pin for both clusters. The wideband ecu has accepted, via the lock smith, the pin of the Quattro cluster. The Quattro cluster has been changed at some point as it has a 2003 sticker on it and is a 2000 car. The only thing to change is the engine bay loom and then the wideband ecu wasn't happy but the narrowband ecu still worked but now won't. very frustrating as I have the registered rosstech and a gendan lead. It kept saying last night that there were too many communications errors to continue when trying to do a login.
Any body know what the crack is or a good solution apart from a sledgehammer? Thanks.
Big thanks to broonie for the s4 uprights to facilitate the big brake, albeit b5 s4, set up for the front end.
Just need the rear s4 facelift brakes and different bearings or c.v. Joints to either use my hub flanges or s4 c.v. joints as my joints don't fit into the s4 flanges.
Just need the rear s4 facelift brakes and different bearings or c.v. Joints to either use my hub flanges or s4 c.v. joints as my joints don't fit into the s4 flanges.
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on the B5, S4 CV's wont fit the shafts from the smaller cars, the spline is smaller. did your car originally have 75mm front bearings? If so, you'll probably need to get some front shafts from a 2.8 or something. PM me with some more details and i can do some cross referencing.
I've got a set of rear brakes which you might be interested in, they're 269x22 from a V8 C5?
I've got a set of rear brakes which you might be interested in, they're 269x22 from a V8 C5?
It's sort of happy days. I have now got the wide band ecu with the cluster that it was paired with in the donor a6 and the transponder also from that set up placed with the key blade.
Freshly charged battery in the car and laptop and with registered rosstech and gendan lead I matched the key to the cluster and then went into the engine module and it took about five attempts to take but finally the ecu and cluster paired up. 01177 was one of the faults which raised the fault 17978. So one was faulty ECU or chipped modified ECU which meant ECU and cluster wouldn't communicate and so engine start was blocked by immobilizer.
The fault that is present now is 17705, pressure drop between DV and throttle valve, check DV. I'll have to check previous autoscans but from memory this fault has been present in the donor car prior to the DV being upgraded to a brand new 710N type.
I never got the opportunity to see if the fault cleared in the donor car as the cam chain adjuster failed and the car was put off the road.
It has also been present in the Quattro, with the narrow band ECU and loom, prior to the new DV being installed at which point it cleared without return.
It was present with the wide band ECU and narrow band loom and is present now with wide band ECU and wideband loom. The DV is the same now low mileage 710N version.
The N75 numbers are the same between the donor car and Quattro and I'm near sure the, is it N249 valve, which pulls the DV is the same number as well.
She also feels no quicker but I'll do a few pulls and logs later when everyone is tucked up tight in bed.
Freshly charged battery in the car and laptop and with registered rosstech and gendan lead I matched the key to the cluster and then went into the engine module and it took about five attempts to take but finally the ecu and cluster paired up. 01177 was one of the faults which raised the fault 17978. So one was faulty ECU or chipped modified ECU which meant ECU and cluster wouldn't communicate and so engine start was blocked by immobilizer.
The fault that is present now is 17705, pressure drop between DV and throttle valve, check DV. I'll have to check previous autoscans but from memory this fault has been present in the donor car prior to the DV being upgraded to a brand new 710N type.
I never got the opportunity to see if the fault cleared in the donor car as the cam chain adjuster failed and the car was put off the road.
It has also been present in the Quattro, with the narrow band ECU and loom, prior to the new DV being installed at which point it cleared without return.
It was present with the wide band ECU and narrow band loom and is present now with wide band ECU and wideband loom. The DV is the same now low mileage 710N version.
The N75 numbers are the same between the donor car and Quattro and I'm near sure the, is it N249 valve, which pulls the DV is the same number as well.
She also feels no quicker but I'll do a few pulls and logs later when everyone is tucked up tight in bed.
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You're quite right Calum, boost leak. A couple of other faults are present like camshaft not at set point timing retarded. Trim not good engine running lean or words to that effect.
The lambda control tests were conflicting with one of the voltages being high and one being low. The age test says it's oldish but ok.
The values of 031 block log lambda requested at 0.9-0.78 and actual at a fairly constant 0.727. Block 032 indicates vacuum leak at idle and fuel system trying to enrich at speed.
Prognosis MAF and MAP sensors are both getting swapped out. O2 sensor may be giving false information. May or may not be vac and boost leak dependant on sensor feedback reliability.
Log capture added of blocks 002, 031 and 115. No misfires at idle with lumpy idling. Log performed in third gear.
The lambda control tests were conflicting with one of the voltages being high and one being low. The age test says it's oldish but ok.
The values of 031 block log lambda requested at 0.9-0.78 and actual at a fairly constant 0.727. Block 032 indicates vacuum leak at idle and fuel system trying to enrich at speed.
Prognosis MAF and MAP sensors are both getting swapped out. O2 sensor may be giving false information. May or may not be vac and boost leak dependant on sensor feedback reliability.
Log capture added of blocks 002, 031 and 115. No misfires at idle with lumpy idling. Log performed in third gear.
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There's a whining noise coming from the rear right wheel arch. This was at a rough idle and the whine went and the idle smoothed out a bit once I cleared the fault codes. The clearing of fault codes resets the fuel trims which might smooth out the idle but why would the whine noise disappear. Also would this whine be part of the evap system or the fuel pump? Starting to think the ECU may be duff after all.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Sounds like the fuel pump, only place you'll hear the Evap is under the bonnet. When was the last fuel filter change done? Boost leak, check the injector seats and injectors
Rough idle could be because of low fuel pressure.
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Try taking the oil filler cap off with the engine running, if the pcv valve is gone there will be massive vacuum. If you get the cap off and the engine stalls then you've found the problem. Is your idle higher than usual?
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Not yet Calum. Few interuptions this week with her da at the hospital with his back and trips to the vets. The idle at the start is a bit higher but no vacuum under the cap. The fuel pump relay is ok and the fuel pump resistance is 0.7-1 ohm which is apparently low. I have a spare that is sitting at 58 ohms. I'll have another crack at it when I get home. Cheers.
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Yeah I would definitely change the pump over. Cold idle is around 1100 to 1200 rpm, was it from cold?
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Yes, it was. Sitting about 1200-1300 rpm then dropping way down to 550-600 rpm.
The hose from manifold to FPR looks bad. I'll change it and the drivers side wing gets wild hot were the wiring/hosing from the N80 valve goes in to it. I'll check that out to and the charcoal canister as the tank airlocks while putting fuel in. The nozzle clicks off. Wee bit still to do then.
The hose from manifold to FPR looks bad. I'll change it and the drivers side wing gets wild hot were the wiring/hosing from the N80 valve goes in to it. I'll check that out to and the charcoal canister as the tank airlocks while putting fuel in. The nozzle clicks off. Wee bit still to do then.
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You'll get there mate, possibly the grommet has fallen out if the inner wing and the wiring is chafed through.
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The injector seals is a good suggestion for leaks, Calum.
I put power to the spare pump and it doesn't even turn but draws a load of current. The one I the car does turn with a wee rattle now and again. The level sender is not working so may be the whole unit is defective.
So what have I done for myself lately. Checked the purge/N80 valve for operation and it's good. All the check valves are operating perfectly. All hoses in around the manifold. The only pipe I couldn't see was the hard pipe out of the crankcase which I would like to replace in the next while. The same pipe on the donor engine disintegrated when I looked at it the wrong way.
I replaced the FPR to manifold pipe. Vacuum tube from vacuum tank to elbow near the suction jet pump. The pipe had collapsed but it was evident that a vacuum had been held even after sitting for a fortnight.
The Pressure Regulator Valve, Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve and Suction Jet Pump were replaced with new parts from tps.
The PRV valve is hard to assess for operation but the PCV valve had failed and the SJP was not operating as the new one was and was blocked up. So it was probably best to replace the PRV.
Outcome of all this is that the car still starts with a high idle and slowly dies. The 17705 fault used to come on straight away and now takes a minute to appear so this has helped but the charge side of the system needs pressurised and checked for leaks or smoke tested. Also the coolant temperature sensor needs checked and the thermostat needs changed out and the coolant system needs flushed and renewed. Also the fuel pump needs checked for flow or pressure tested. Also need to check the FPR and
I put power to the spare pump and it doesn't even turn but draws a load of current. The one I the car does turn with a wee rattle now and again. The level sender is not working so may be the whole unit is defective.
So what have I done for myself lately. Checked the purge/N80 valve for operation and it's good. All the check valves are operating perfectly. All hoses in around the manifold. The only pipe I couldn't see was the hard pipe out of the crankcase which I would like to replace in the next while. The same pipe on the donor engine disintegrated when I looked at it the wrong way.
I replaced the FPR to manifold pipe. Vacuum tube from vacuum tank to elbow near the suction jet pump. The pipe had collapsed but it was evident that a vacuum had been held even after sitting for a fortnight.
The Pressure Regulator Valve, Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve and Suction Jet Pump were replaced with new parts from tps.
The PRV valve is hard to assess for operation but the PCV valve had failed and the SJP was not operating as the new one was and was blocked up. So it was probably best to replace the PRV.
Outcome of all this is that the car still starts with a high idle and slowly dies. The 17705 fault used to come on straight away and now takes a minute to appear so this has helped but the charge side of the system needs pressurised and checked for leaks or smoke tested. Also the coolant temperature sensor needs checked and the thermostat needs changed out and the coolant system needs flushed and renewed. Also the fuel pump needs checked for flow or pressure tested. Also need to check the FPR and
Sorry I got interrupted there. Where was I? Yes, didn't get to edit out my spelling mistakes or finish that last post properly.
I need to check the N75 solenoid/valve and N249 for operation and any cracks/leaks in the casings.
I like the sound of the oil catch can but am unsure at the minute of how the metered air or in this case unmetered air would affect the fueling and AFR. Also I heard somewhere that the evap system and purged hydrocarbons can greatly throw off lambda trims if the system isn't working correctly so I would like to keep this in the system.
Welcome to my man cave.
I need to check the N75 solenoid/valve and N249 for operation and any cracks/leaks in the casings.
I like the sound of the oil catch can but am unsure at the minute of how the metered air or in this case unmetered air would affect the fueling and AFR. Also I heard somewhere that the evap system and purged hydrocarbons can greatly throw off lambda trims if the system isn't working correctly so I would like to keep this in the system.
Welcome to my man cave.
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Regarding the catch can, its cut into the pcv system at the most convenient point for you, it remains a sealed system and won't affect your fuelling at all. Are you going to try the newer fuel relay then. The crank case breather can cause problems, I need to replace mine as well 
this will be the third in 11 years of 1.8t ownership. 
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this will be the third in 11 years of 1.8t ownership. 
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That's good to know about the catch can, good to know the parts that I got and the catch can are able to be integrated.
Sorry about the picture posted being a bit misleading. I got interrupted last night mid post and then wasn't able to upload the photos properly. I have the new 372 fuel pump relay. I think that picture might be from quattroworld website. It was very helpful in providing a circuit diagram to show what it is that pulls the relay on and what components that should be energised to check for power at which fuse locations.
The mk4 golf and mk1 Leon prime their fuel pump when the drivers door is opened but ours primes it like the AAN engined early 5 cylinder s4 in that the engine speed sensor, once above 13 rpm, actives a holding relay in the ECU which then energises the fuel pump relay 208 or 372 whichever it may be.
Sorry about the picture posted being a bit misleading. I got interrupted last night mid post and then wasn't able to upload the photos properly. I have the new 372 fuel pump relay. I think that picture might be from quattroworld website. It was very helpful in providing a circuit diagram to show what it is that pulls the relay on and what components that should be energised to check for power at which fuse locations.
The mk4 golf and mk1 Leon prime their fuel pump when the drivers door is opened but ours primes it like the AAN engined early 5 cylinder s4 in that the engine speed sensor, once above 13 rpm, actives a holding relay in the ECU which then energises the fuel pump relay 208 or 372 whichever it may be.
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I wouldn't have the injector and cam sensor loom cable tied so tightly to the top coolant pipe, it should run along the side of the rocker cover.
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That's the loom for the lpg injectors which aren't fitted yet, it was a bit tight. I re tied it a bit looser.
I was supposed to do a fuel pressure test tonight but 4:30 rising takes the wind out of your sails after a while.
Last night I removed and checked the n249 valve, perfect.
Removed and tested the n75 valve, which lets boost to the wastegate port only in the deactivated state but lets the air flow through to the wastage and turbo intake port at the same time in the activated state. I thought it was supposed to be full to the wastegate or full to the intake port from the compressor/ charge port not a bit of flow to both ports at any stage.
Replaced some dodgy looking jubilee clips with some proper air pipe crimp clips.
Verified a check valve near the n80 valve that I'd forgotten about, perfect.
Ran the car with the lambda disconnected to see if it would run better on base values. It didn't so that should rule out the lamdba and it's circuitry.
Ran the fuel pump with an external battery to eliminate my wiring harness as a cause of the pump stopping. My loom is fine as the pump stopped with the battery connected.
I ordered new seals for the FPR, MAP sensor and air intake temperature sensor so will get them in tomorrow hopefully and get the pressure test done. The MAP sits in the top of the intercooler and the intake temperature sensor sits just after the throttle body. I discovered this today speaking with the fella at tps, always thought it was the other way around with the sensor being in the manifold after the throttle body.
I was supposed to do a fuel pressure test tonight but 4:30 rising takes the wind out of your sails after a while.
Last night I removed and checked the n249 valve, perfect.
Removed and tested the n75 valve, which lets boost to the wastegate port only in the deactivated state but lets the air flow through to the wastage and turbo intake port at the same time in the activated state. I thought it was supposed to be full to the wastegate or full to the intake port from the compressor/ charge port not a bit of flow to both ports at any stage.
Replaced some dodgy looking jubilee clips with some proper air pipe crimp clips.
Verified a check valve near the n80 valve that I'd forgotten about, perfect.
Ran the car with the lambda disconnected to see if it would run better on base values. It didn't so that should rule out the lamdba and it's circuitry.
Ran the fuel pump with an external battery to eliminate my wiring harness as a cause of the pump stopping. My loom is fine as the pump stopped with the battery connected.
I ordered new seals for the FPR, MAP sensor and air intake temperature sensor so will get them in tomorrow hopefully and get the pressure test done. The MAP sits in the top of the intercooler and the intake temperature sensor sits just after the throttle body. I discovered this today speaking with the fella at tps, always thought it was the other way around with the sensor being in the manifold after the throttle body.
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Forgive me, it's been almost a fortnight since my last post.
The FPR got swapped over and made no difference. I will have to swap it back.
I put a hose on the output of the pump and the flow was non existent with a quarter tank. I put 17 or so litres in the tank which must have gave the pump a bit of assistance and she drove for 40ish miles before starting to stall again.
Ordered a second hand pump off the bay as new ones are a fortune plus she'll be on lpg for most the time anyway.
Fitted it tonight and it's a hateful job. My mouth tasted like a petrol pump for most of the night. The retaining ring was very rusty and needed cleaned up before opening things up. Only two pics, sorry.
I checked the level sender on the drivers/pump side and it's reading 10-13 ohms for empty to 1/3 full and then up to 70 ohms. I never removed the other level sender but measured it and it's reading 600 ohms give or take. Which doesn't sound right. I don't know how the twin senders for the split tank will work with the clocks and wideband loom and ecu which are from a front wheel drive car and has only the one sender. There is a hose and a pair of wires that goes from drivers side pump towards the passenger side level sender but not being able to see or reach it I can't say for sure what it's purpose is and I haven't opened that side up yet.
I'll have to check the pump for flow at some stage, couldn't be annoyed tonight, and check the clocks and loom out as to what their operational status is.
The car is running now and idling better and smells better at slow manoeuvring speeds as in less unburnt fuel out the exhaust. It still isn't right though with a check light and hesitancy on a fourth gear pull. My laptop battery was dead so will have to scan it tomorrow with the vcds.
The FPR got swapped over and made no difference. I will have to swap it back.
I put a hose on the output of the pump and the flow was non existent with a quarter tank. I put 17 or so litres in the tank which must have gave the pump a bit of assistance and she drove for 40ish miles before starting to stall again.
Ordered a second hand pump off the bay as new ones are a fortune plus she'll be on lpg for most the time anyway.
Fitted it tonight and it's a hateful job. My mouth tasted like a petrol pump for most of the night. The retaining ring was very rusty and needed cleaned up before opening things up. Only two pics, sorry.
I checked the level sender on the drivers/pump side and it's reading 10-13 ohms for empty to 1/3 full and then up to 70 ohms. I never removed the other level sender but measured it and it's reading 600 ohms give or take. Which doesn't sound right. I don't know how the twin senders for the split tank will work with the clocks and wideband loom and ecu which are from a front wheel drive car and has only the one sender. There is a hose and a pair of wires that goes from drivers side pump towards the passenger side level sender but not being able to see or reach it I can't say for sure what it's purpose is and I haven't opened that side up yet.
I'll have to check the pump for flow at some stage, couldn't be annoyed tonight, and check the clocks and loom out as to what their operational status is.
The car is running now and idling better and smells better at slow manoeuvring speeds as in less unburnt fuel out the exhaust. It still isn't right though with a check light and hesitancy on a fourth gear pull. My laptop battery was dead so will have to scan it tomorrow with the vcds.
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Have you checked for boost leaks, could be drawing air somewhere throwing the mixture out. Crankcase breather is a favourite.
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I am going to order a new one of those crank case breather pipes and o rings. Tps say it isn't made anymore but there are a few on the bay. It's hard to tell if it is defective or not but as soon as you look near an old one it disintegrates.
Does anyone know what number 33 is in the photograph? 32 looks like a return to tank pipe.
The next image is the reservoir that the fuel pump sits in.
In my tank there is another device on the passenger of the tank that is not listed in the ETKA diagram. I'm not sure yet if my device is a level sender or transfer pump or both.
In the drivers side of my tank there are wires going to the passenger side and a 20mm diameter pipe coming from the passenger side to the reservoir. I'm thinking that there may be a transfer pump on the passenger side that has failed and therefore the reservoir is not being replenished and the pump is running dry.
I have yet to investigate this possibility, blooming vets visits. No lethal injections unfortunately, have to keep the children happy. I just keep telling the wife, "Can you picture me riding the cat to work? Maybe if I put a saddle on his back and call him Cringer I might have a chance". You have to laugh, if you don't you'd cry.
I love him really, just frustrated as her getting taxis is breaking my heart and the vets visits and hours I do isn't facilitating me with the investigative process. Bad weather isn't helping either.
Does anyone know what number 33 is in the photograph? 32 looks like a return to tank pipe.
The next image is the reservoir that the fuel pump sits in.
In my tank there is another device on the passenger of the tank that is not listed in the ETKA diagram. I'm not sure yet if my device is a level sender or transfer pump or both.
In the drivers side of my tank there are wires going to the passenger side and a 20mm diameter pipe coming from the passenger side to the reservoir. I'm thinking that there may be a transfer pump on the passenger side that has failed and therefore the reservoir is not being replenished and the pump is running dry.
I have yet to investigate this possibility, blooming vets visits. No lethal injections unfortunately, have to keep the children happy. I just keep telling the wife, "Can you picture me riding the cat to work? Maybe if I put a saddle on his back and call him Cringer I might have a chance". You have to laugh, if you don't you'd cry.
I love him really, just frustrated as her getting taxis is breaking my heart and the vets visits and hours I do isn't facilitating me with the investigative process. Bad weather isn't helping either.
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Forgot to add that the car is still stalling after a while of driving which makes me think the reservoir is running out of fuel somehow.
I tested the old pump in a bucket of water and it flows and returns with no problems yet in the car it had no flow with the same power applied. This supports my theory of pump starvation within the reservoir.
The wiring at the other device at the other side of the car doesn't seem to be doing anything, no ground, no voltage. I will have to try to trace it back and see what the crack is with it.
I checked all the connections and made a circuit diagram.
I checked the wires and connections for pin two and three of the fuel pump loom. The ground or chassis -ve is good and the voltage supply to pins two and three is 3.9 volts with a volt drop of 1.3 volts.
I'm having trouble accessing the wiring diagrams to see where abouts the purple with black returns to so it may have to be a carpet up job, all in the name of motoring I suppose.
Has anyone tried the N75 valves off of the bay? They are about £27. The ones from tps are about a ton which I need to direct elsewhere. Thanks.
The wiring at the other device at the other side of the car doesn't seem to be doing anything, no ground, no voltage. I will have to try to trace it back and see what the crack is with it.
I checked all the connections and made a circuit diagram.
I checked the wires and connections for pin two and three of the fuel pump loom. The ground or chassis -ve is good and the voltage supply to pins two and three is 3.9 volts with a volt drop of 1.3 volts.
I'm having trouble accessing the wiring diagrams to see where abouts the purple with black returns to so it may have to be a carpet up job, all in the name of motoring I suppose.
Has anyone tried the N75 valves off of the bay? They are about £27. The ones from tps are about a ton which I need to direct elsewhere. Thanks.
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I have one in the parts drawer you can have if you pay postage
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Does anyone know if there is a leak detection pump on my 2000 1.8t a6 Quattro? I have removed the rear arch liner on the drivers side where the filler next is and there is no sign of one. Also no apparent vacuum lines just the brake lines, handbrake cables, fuel lines to send and return and the line going to the charcoal canister.
More to come, weans to bed time.
More to come, weans to bed time.
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Last week it must have been that I checked the old pump in a bucket of water for send and return with no defects out of the car but no send in the car.
I checked the device out on the left/passenger side of the car. It's a level sender and a suction jet pump combined.
I put power to the new fuel pump in the cars tank with a hose connecting send to return. The pumping action on return must cause a siphoning effect on a pipe that rests near the bottom of the tank adjacent to the reservoir, it's anchored there. The return from the engine goes into a distributor block which has the pick up from the bottom of the tank feed into it. One hose from the distributor block feeds straight into the reservoir and one goes out to the suction jet pump on the other side of the tank which a return then comes from it back to the reservoir. Anyway all the fuel is coming back and forth as it should and the reservoir is being well topped up despite the fact that the engine isn't using any fuel you can tell that the reservoir is not suffering starvation issues.
Prognosis is vacuum forming in the tank and preventing the pump from excavating fuel from the tank.
I pulled off the rear arch liner and the breather valve and put pressure via a bicycle pump to the breather valve and what I think is the roll over valve. The breather valve works as it should and there is flow in all directions on every hose I pressurised. Flow is able through the gravity or rollover valve. Some could be heard deep in the tank and some in the expansion tank.
I had changed the flap and filler cap at some stage and wondered did that do something to the breather valve but I've lost the original so had to use a spare from an Ibiza which when placing paint on the arm and the filler neck and a bit of bluetac behind the arm seems to indicate that it depresses the arm on the breather valve a bit more than the current one. It also sealed nicely.
I then got rid of a fair bit of rust scale and put rust cure on it and then some hycote matt black paint.
Next on the list was the charcoal canister as this as far as I know is the final and only point where the tank vents and fresh air can be drawn into the tank. I removed another hateful arch liner. The canister was able to allow flow from the vapour side to the N80 side. I was able to blow through the bottom of the canister, fresh air draw in, to the tank side with the N80 side blocked. I'm not sure if this is an effective means of testing. I tested a spare canister with the same method getting similar results and put that one back in the car after removing, killing and painting over more rust. It could be that they are both sort of packed up and I'm able to force air flow through with my lungs but the vacuum and atmospheric pressure aren't sufficient to over come the restrictive pathway. I put pressure to the tank vent line and could here it coming back to the filler neck region. It pressurised quite easily which means that there is a valve in and around the filler neck area that is not letting the air back down into the tank despite my earlier testing at the filler neck area were flow was possible in all directions. I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Put her all back together and went for a run to get some fuel doing a log while I was at it. I'll look at them tomorrow and post them up. I started doing tests on basic settings, 070 and 077 or so for evap system and lambda testing but the battery gave out so will need to repeat those.
The N80 from the narrow band system sounded like an old type writer ticking away. The wideband one doesn't make a sound whilst the voltmeter shows that the ecu is calling for it to modulate. You can't even feel it ticking so I'll have to put power to it with the engine off to see if it is still operational.
The clocks are the only think to have changed when the level senders aren't working. They have worked with narrow band loom, clocks and ecu. They have also worked with wideband loom, and ecu albeit the wideband ecu was with the narrowband loom and the narrowband ecu was with the wideband loom. Anyway short story, clocks are wonky.
I checked the device out on the left/passenger side of the car. It's a level sender and a suction jet pump combined.
I put power to the new fuel pump in the cars tank with a hose connecting send to return. The pumping action on return must cause a siphoning effect on a pipe that rests near the bottom of the tank adjacent to the reservoir, it's anchored there. The return from the engine goes into a distributor block which has the pick up from the bottom of the tank feed into it. One hose from the distributor block feeds straight into the reservoir and one goes out to the suction jet pump on the other side of the tank which a return then comes from it back to the reservoir. Anyway all the fuel is coming back and forth as it should and the reservoir is being well topped up despite the fact that the engine isn't using any fuel you can tell that the reservoir is not suffering starvation issues.
Prognosis is vacuum forming in the tank and preventing the pump from excavating fuel from the tank.
I pulled off the rear arch liner and the breather valve and put pressure via a bicycle pump to the breather valve and what I think is the roll over valve. The breather valve works as it should and there is flow in all directions on every hose I pressurised. Flow is able through the gravity or rollover valve. Some could be heard deep in the tank and some in the expansion tank.
I had changed the flap and filler cap at some stage and wondered did that do something to the breather valve but I've lost the original so had to use a spare from an Ibiza which when placing paint on the arm and the filler neck and a bit of bluetac behind the arm seems to indicate that it depresses the arm on the breather valve a bit more than the current one. It also sealed nicely.
I then got rid of a fair bit of rust scale and put rust cure on it and then some hycote matt black paint.
Next on the list was the charcoal canister as this as far as I know is the final and only point where the tank vents and fresh air can be drawn into the tank. I removed another hateful arch liner. The canister was able to allow flow from the vapour side to the N80 side. I was able to blow through the bottom of the canister, fresh air draw in, to the tank side with the N80 side blocked. I'm not sure if this is an effective means of testing. I tested a spare canister with the same method getting similar results and put that one back in the car after removing, killing and painting over more rust. It could be that they are both sort of packed up and I'm able to force air flow through with my lungs but the vacuum and atmospheric pressure aren't sufficient to over come the restrictive pathway. I put pressure to the tank vent line and could here it coming back to the filler neck region. It pressurised quite easily which means that there is a valve in and around the filler neck area that is not letting the air back down into the tank despite my earlier testing at the filler neck area were flow was possible in all directions. I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Put her all back together and went for a run to get some fuel doing a log while I was at it. I'll look at them tomorrow and post them up. I started doing tests on basic settings, 070 and 077 or so for evap system and lambda testing but the battery gave out so will need to repeat those.
The N80 from the narrow band system sounded like an old type writer ticking away. The wideband one doesn't make a sound whilst the voltmeter shows that the ecu is calling for it to modulate. You can't even feel it ticking so I'll have to put power to it with the engine off to see if it is still operational.
The clocks are the only think to have changed when the level senders aren't working. They have worked with narrow band loom, clocks and ecu. They have also worked with wideband loom, and ecu albeit the wideband ecu was with the narrowband loom and the narrowband ecu was with the wideband loom. Anyway short story, clocks are wonky.
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