Opinion: Worth spending more?!

Cvetko

Cvetko

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Hello,

in more or less 1 year I did turn my sleeper in a decent car.
(Brake upgrades from fs3 to 288mm was done some years ago.)
Swapped 1.8T AUM from MK4 to my car (A3-was 1.6).
Rebuild head (gaskets, exhaust valves).
New LUK clutch.
Bought 3" decat and 2.5 catback.
New fuelpump. And other minor stuff.
4 months ago I did a chip to around -230hp/330Nm (more or less stock parts on car).

I think for now Im maxed with this parts.
So, what you guys think is worth spending more $$$ around (2k-2.5k) to get just around 280hp with "Stock bottom end". (Parts needed: MAF, FMIC, Injectors, DV, Turbo, exhaust manifold, intake, again chip)


thanks
cheers
 
Rods and I presume crankshaft bearings too.
What about piston rings and pin?
Anything else?
1k must be enough to spend?
 
You doing the work yourself ? If not It's going to cost more than 1k for new rods and piston rings I would of thought
 
Personally I wouldn't bother with rods at stage 2 ko4 levels. I would take the chance.

Only you can decide is it worth it. Personal situation dictate so much. Your financial situation and how long you plan keeping the car... Etc

But I think a3 with stage 2 power level would be good fun car to drive!

Did you do 1.6>>1.8t conversion? Few people ask about it but nobody seems to know anything about it lol do share!
 
audi upgrades
Tj 0785 said:
You doing the work yourself ? If not It's going to cost more than 1k for new rods and piston rings I would of thought
Click to expand...

I can try it myself cant be that hard with right tool/equipment. :)

SamHendry said:
Personally I wouldn't bother with rods at stage 2 ko4 levels. I would take the chance.

Only you can decide is it worth it. Personal situation dictate so much. Your financial situation and how long you plan keeping the car... Etc

But I think a3 with stage 2 power level would be good fun car to drive!

Did you do 1.6>>1.8t conversion? Few people ask about it but nobody seems to know anything about it lol do share!
Click to expand...


To be honest I dont understand this days stage 1,1+,2,2+,3,3+,...ect
I can say its fun already :)
No intend to change the car after what I did, will keep it :)
Conversion was done all by me. Was straight swap, no problems. My car was AVU 1.6 and the mk4 golf GTI was AUM, all did fit loom, engine, transmision, all plugs were the same :)

hydro s3 said:
Save ur money and buy a s3.
Click to expand...
Well, I just dont see why would that a good options :)
Engine is almost the same just forged internals and ko4. (all depends on how healty the engine u can get)
MPG is worse, insurance is more expensive as for maintenance too...

And here nearby 4-5 people have an s3 already, dont like to imitate them :)
 
Cvetko said:
I can try it myself cant be that hard with right tool/equipment. :)

Yeah definitely worth having a go yourself, i swapped the rods on mine and with the help of asn and general Internet searching it's pretty straight forward.



To be honest I dont understand this days stage 1,1+,2,2+,3,3+,...ect
I can say its fun already :)
No intend to change the car after what I did, will keep it :)
Conversion was done all by me. Was straight swap, no problems. My car was AVU 1.6 and the mk4 golf GTI was AUM, all did fit loom, engine, transmision, all plugs were the same :)

Oh right didn't think it was as easy as that. Whenever someone suggests swapping 1.6>>1.8t they get shot down and order to '' just buy a 1.8t a3/s3''


Well, I just dont see why would that a good options :)
Engine is almost the same just forged internals and ko4. (all depends on how healty the engine u can get)
MPG is worse, insurance is more expensive as for maintenance too...

And here nearby 4-5 people have an s3 already, dont like to imitate them :)
Click to expand...

Agree with that, considering the work youve already put into your car swapping for a old knackered s3 would be a backward step.
 
Cvetko said:
To be honest I dont understand this days stage 1,1+,2,2+,3,3+,...ect
Click to expand...

Stages are largely irrelevant on 8L's these days as most decent mappers custom map to the mods fitted and condition of engine/turbo..

'Stages' across different marques seem to vary but for VAGs there was originally 3... stage 1 was for a std car with no mods, designed to pep them up a bit... stage 2 is more for cars that have the usual mods of decent FMIC, induction and downpipe and designed make use of the improved engine efficiency the mods provide...

Stage 3 was to cover exotic hardware setups so hybrids and big turbos and are typically full custom mapping..

On newer stuff there seems to be stage X + now but its more a marketing thing than anything else...

Cvetko said:
Engine is almost the same just forged internals and ko4.
Click to expand...
Not quite no... would appear you have fallen victim of the internet experts... AUM has a forged crank like any 1.8t but has the smaller 19mm pinned rods... these rods and sintered crack rods and use tangless bearings... the 20mm setup used in the S3 (APY/AMK/BAM) and some A3's (AGU) is superior in that respect... you can swap the internal out easy enough if you decide to fit rods as long as you can source some pistons from a K04 turbo'd engine or an AGU A3/Golf or even some of the Mk3 Ibiza Cupra's

Cvetko said:
MPG is worse, insurance is more expensive as for maintenance too...
Click to expand...
Nope... MPG is no real different off boost... if anything the more lively tuned K03 is worse when driving sensibly...

As for maintenance... its essentially the same engine... so no different for service paarts... the only real additional expense service wise is a haldex oil and filter change which is around £40 every 20k ish miles...

Most insurance companies will charge more for a car with a declared engine swap than a car with that engine in it out of the factory...

(I assume you have declared all your mods to the insurance company as going from a normally aspirated 1.6 to a tuned 1.8 turbo is quite a step and will land you in all sorts of trouble if you have an accident)

<tuffty/>
 
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Yep, modified cars nearly always cost more than a standard car with the same power to insure. I could have insured an m5 v10 cheaper than my s3 even with 80bhp less.

S3 also has independent rear suspension standard.

It's the same old story, how much are you willing to spend and how much work do you want to put in lol
 
Thanks for replays.
Well hopefully in EU, I pay exactly the same as I would have this engine out of the factory.
Yes all mods declared and all on paper.

So, as I did understand correctly if I would like to get 20mm pinned rods, I will need pistons too.
What is a must do ?
Rods, Bearing, Oil pump(never changed-stock)? With stock pistons, can this work?
Did I forget smth important?
How good-bad are parts from ebay? Or what(where) to buy?
If I will stay at 19mm pin, maybe is good to buy a newone?


thanks
cheers
 
Cvetko said:
Thanks for replays.
Well hopefully in EU, I pay exactly the same as I would have this engine out of the factory.
Yes all mods declared and all on paper.

So, as I did understand correctly if I would like to get 20mm pinned rods, I will need pistons too.
What is a must do ?
Rods, Bearing, Oil pump(never changed-stock)? With stock pistons, can this work?
Did I forget smth important?
How good-bad are parts from ebay? Or what(where) to buy?
If I will stay at 19mm pin, maybe is good to buy a newone?


thanks
cheers
Click to expand...

I would use 19mm forged rods with your current pistons, million options around when buying rods, personally i bought a set of max speeding which are very cheap and have worked great so far, so would recommend, as tuffty said you need tangless rod bearings which I think are cheaper than tanged ones found in other 1.8t.

Worth fitting new oil pump, stock is more than adequate. Piston rings possibly, current rings might well still be in good condition, head gasket set aswell mate along with head bolts and you probably want to look at getting your head rebuilt, if you go through effort of taking head off, might as well get it refreshed, skimmed etc. good luck!
 
SamHendry said:
I would use 19mm forged rods with your current pistons, million options around when buying rods, personally i bought a set of max speeding which are very cheap and have worked great so far, so would recommend
Click to expand...
Be aware that most cheap eBay rods are not rifle drilled and every car I have seen that has non drilled rods suffer from small end knock...

SamHendry said:
as tuffty said you need tangless rod bearings which I think are cheaper than tanged ones found in other 1.8t.
Click to expand...

To avoid any confusion... std shells on the AUM are tangless... aftermarket rods will be tanged... price difference will be negligible if at all but won't make a difference if fitting rods as you will need tanged bearings anyway

SamHendry said:
Worth fitting new oil pump, stock is more than adequate.
Click to expand...
Fit an OE pump only... and clean or change the pickup

SamHendry said:
Piston rings possibly
Click to expand...

Most definitely change the rings... false economy else...

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks for clearing up my dodgy advice tuffty lol
 
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Found some drilled rods: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-1...225314?hash=item33d09c21e2:g:2hMAAOSw3mpXD-tq
Oil pump: I can buy Topran or Febi Bilstein
(what about the chain?)
For bearings I have this as option: KOLBENSCHMIDT 77581600
Piston rings: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/SKODA-OCTAVI...866470?hash=item3ae6b72926:g:Db0AAOSwLF1X~Ns4 not entirely sure, if its ok
2nd: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-S...695220?hash=item41b614de74:g:QWEAAOSwI3RW9T6V


Maybe noob question, with new rings, the block need to be re-honed?

thanks regards
 
Cvetko said:
Found some drilled rods: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-1...225314?hash=item33d09c21e2:g:2hMAAOSw3mpXD-tq
Click to expand...
They have holes in the small end so not ideal but at least the oil will retain a degree of pressure as the bearing is not grooved... they also don't supply bolts so you will need to source ARP 2000 bolts separately

Cvetko said:
Oil pump: I can buy Topran or Febi Bilstein
(what about the chain?)
Click to expand...

Buy a genuine pump... have seen both topran and febi pumps fail.. chain is a nice to have... but I would advise to at least change the tensioner too if doing the chain... you will also need to replace the crank bolt as this will need to be removed to replace the chain and the tensioner... and a new crank seal too if disturbing the front cover...

Cvetko said:
For bearings I have this as option: KOLBENSCHMIDT 77581600
Click to expand...

They should be ok...

Cvetko said:
2nd: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-S...695220?hash=item41b614de74:g:QWEAAOSwI3RW9T6V
Click to expand...

These... not the others

Cvetko said:
Maybe noob question, with new rings, the block need to be re-honed?
Click to expand...

Yes...

<tuffty/>
 
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