Audi A3 1.8t does this look normal?

MikeCrum1996

MikeCrum1996

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so I had a few valves replaced recently ever since I've had it returned something is not right.. but I don't know what.. it struggles to start every time but always starts, reduced power, reduced fuel economy, there is a huge boost leak somewhere I can hear on drivers side. I've gone round the entire engine tightening all hoses as few of them didn't even have jubilee clips, but hasn't made a difference I've compared photos of the engine bay to others online and some stuff looks odd.

I need peoples opinion I have few photos to share..
Car has stage 1 remap.
 

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Can't see anything untoward, I would start with a vcds scan mate
 
Untitled2

Inspect the frayed hose marked in red, I believe its the vacuum hose for the DV. Also check the one marked in orange, its the vacuum hose for the FPR. Both of these look like original parts, which turn very brittle at this old age.
 
Erikn89nl said:
View attachment 131767
Inspect the frayed hose marked in red, I believe its the vacuum hose for the DV. Also check the one marked in orange, its the vacuum hose for the FPR. Both of these look like original parts, which turn very brittle at this old age.
Click to expand...
So that's my problem? How much are replacements
 
I can't tell from here, but a split or broken hose is easy to spot. Have a look yourself. Replace with silicone vac hose if needed.
 
Erikn89nl said:
I can't tell from here, but a split or broken hose is easy to spot. Have a look yourself. Replace with silicone vac hose if needed.
Click to expand...
If the hose is split would that cause a boost leak? Or reduced mpg
 
Erikn89nl said:
View attachment 131767
Inspect the frayed hose marked in red, I believe its the vacuum hose for the DV. Also check the one marked in orange, its the vacuum hose for the FPR. Both of these look like original parts, which turn very brittle at this old age.
Click to expand...
I've inspected both of the hoses they seem to have no holes or splits in both just the outer material is a bit messy but all working as far as I can tell
 
<tuffty/> said:
Arguably yes...

Read those fault codes yet?

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
I forgot to mention the mechanic who done the work got the fuel injectors checked I was thinking he might not of put it in properly or didn't connect something up properly
 
I hope you didn't pay good money... the fella should be sorting this out for you

<tuffty/>
 
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<tuffty/> said:
missing clip!!!.... I'd get your money back

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Seriously though the leak sounds around that area what do you tell reckon?, I'm not saying the mechanic done Abbas job the engine is running just not how it use to
 
You can't see it?... the short hose, only one clip, the non clipped side has oil blowing out everywhere...

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
You can't see it?... the short hose, only one clip, the non clipped side has oil blowing out everywhere...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Can't believe I didn't notice but the mechanic said he'll have a mosey hopefully get it sorted
 
No mosey required, he just needs to fit a hose clip. Also, I'd recommend against using Jeremy Clarkson as your mechanic ever again.
 
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Erikn89nl said:
No mosey required, he just needs to fit a hose clip. Also, I'd recommend against using Jeremy Clarkson as your mechanic ever again.
Click to expand...
But surely that leak isn't the cause of a struggle to start or loss of mpg?
I wish it was that simple
 
Erikn89nl said:
No mosey required, he just needs to fit a hose clip. Also, I'd recommend against using Jeremy Clarkson as your mechanic ever again.
Click to expand...
Fitted New clip no boost leak, mpg have gone up, but still have struggle to start but Not to worried
 
Well... its entirely plausible that there are other faults... until you have done a fault scan its difficult to tell... the air leak will have caused a fair amount of adaption for the ECU so your poor starting could be the result of those adaptions...

Fuel trim adaptions could be pulling fuel out making the engine difficult to start... you haven't alluded to if this is cold or warm start as there are different strategies for both and considering the rookie mistake your mechanic made there could also be other issues...

Smoke test, fault code scan would be high on the 'todo' list as you cannot diagnose blind

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Well... its entirely plausible that there are other faults... until you have done a fault scan its difficult to tell... the air leak will have caused a fair amount of adaption for the ECU so your poor starting could be the result of those adaptions...

Fuel trim adaptions could be pulling fuel out making the engine difficult to start... you haven't alluded to if this is cold or warm start as there are different strategies for both and considering the rookie mistake your mechanic made there could also be other issues...

Smoke test, fault code scan would be high on the 'todo' list as you cannot diagnose blind

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
It happens when cold and hot, doesn't seem to make a difference, it's strange tho it starts first time occasionally literally like 1/4 starts, do you think I should even bother letting the mechanic look?
 
If it started fine before then yeah

...still need those codes though :)

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
If it started fine before then yeah

...still need those codes though :)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
The mechanic had a look at it, he noticed that the fuel injectors wasn't seated properly in the clip.. so he sorted that cos there was a bit of petrol leaking out, but the problem still remains..

It also sounds like the problems getting worse, it ran really rough yesterday and even spluttered when I started it, also lumpy idle for a second then disappeared
 
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And real vcds (vag com) are around £280 2nd hand they are around the £180-£200 mark well worth having if you plan on keeping your car. You can get cheap fakes on eBay but they are very limited in what you can do and you might aswell just go all out and get a real one.

Also what area are you I ? If you look on the vcds map a forum member will probably scan it for you for a few beer tokens sometimes free until you get one sorted. See if there is anyone local to you

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/pages/VCDS-Map/
 
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Tj 0785 said:
And real vcds (vag com) are around £280 2nd hand they are around the £180-£200 mark well worth having if you plan on keeping your car. You can get cheap fakes on eBay but they are very limited in what you can do and you might aswell just go all out and get a real one.

Also what area are you I ? If you look on the vcds map a forum member will probably scan it for you for a few beer tokens sometimes free until you get one sorted. See if there is anyone local to you

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/pages/VCDS-Map/
Click to expand...
I'm in clacton-on-sea, which looks like the nearest one isn't Colchester or Ipswich.. so them cheap eBay ones wouldn't Be no good? What's the difference between them both?
 
The link I posted explains most of this...

Ebay leads are fine and work with the free VCDS lite.. the differences are on the ross tech website...

All the new leads are fairly pricey but a decent investment... although they seem to have changed the licensing to limit the number of vehicles you can do the more advanced stuff on (recoding etc) depending on if you are a hobbyist or business...

An ebay lead and vcds lite will give you fault code finding and basic logging functionality... VCDS lite is still better than the cheap code readers as it will read all VAG codes although you will need to use the Ross Tech wiki to get descriptions (which you should do anyway before posting)

These cars are far more easily diagnosed over a forum when you can provide fault codes as the majority of issues with the main parts of the engine and safety management systems are designed to generate fault codes when things happen outside of their design parameters

<tuffty/>
 
I could never do a full scan with the cheap eBay scanner I had to scan one section at a time was a ball ache tbh and was limited at what you could actually do with it. But it did the basics

Think as the cheap eBay as a "demo version" and the proper one the full game. The full game is always better haha
 
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"Think as the cheap eBay as a "demo version" and the proper one the full game. The full game is always better haha "
some people include "just the tip"

how many extra clips have you replaced so far? - its strange as most re-mappers state they do a smoke test and health check before they make any alterations, is it possible he used your car bits for someone else's car?

I started with a Bluetooth EML reader on Android Torque and then Android Torque Pro - then got a cheap ebay KKL lead and downloaded VCDS Lite - the same KKL lead should be compatible with Fiat/Alfa "Multi.. something"

VCDSLite does let you go into different sections and read faults and reset AIRBAG / ABS and EML. Android Torque only accesses EML. What it does not do are all the things you really need to do, you can get a registration key for about $99 for a single user personal licence.

The EML light will go out after (I think) 3 starts without the error re-occurring.
 
Stuart B said:
"Think as the cheap eBay as a "demo version" and the proper one the full game. The full game is always better haha "
some people include "just the tip"

how many extra clips have you replaced so far? - its strange as most re-mappers state they do a smoke test and health check before they make any alterations, is it possible he used your car bits for someone else's car?

I started with a Bluetooth EML reader on Android Torque and then Android Torque Pro - then got a cheap ebay KKL lead and downloaded VCDS Lite - the same KKL lead should be compatible with Fiat/Alfa "Multi.. something"

VCDSLite does let you go into different sections and read faults and reset AIRBAG / ABS and EML. Android Torque only accesses EML. What it does not do are all the things you really need to do, you can get a registration key for about $99 for a single user personal licence.

The EML light will go out after (I think) 3 starts without the error re-occurring.
Click to expand...
Ive replaced about 7 clips as they were either loose or had none what so ever, literally the car was so nice to drive and Felt much faster than it does now, and now the mechanics doesn't answer my calls or texts he probably knows he f**ked up
 
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