Andy's B6 1.8t Quattro S-line project

Andyb5tdi

Andyb5tdi

B5 1.9TDi AFN
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So more than happy with my B5 a mate sent me a message saying his B6 had died and did I know anyone who wanted it for spares before he scrapped it.

He was on his way down the motorway when the oil light came on, it went bang and there was oil everywhere.

It's done 96k miles had 4 owners and is MOT'd until May next year

Here are the photos he sent:

Audinsf


Audiosf1



Audirear



Audiinterior



I had a quick google and found out oil issues are a common problem with these and made him an offer.

Yesterday I had it collected and delivered to home :)

Audiosf


Had a photography evening last night so didn't get chance to look at it, but this morning had 5 mins, so had a look to see where the oil was coming from and found this:

Audiundertray



Audisump


Here is a short video:



Now I'm not too sure what this is, but I'm guessing its part of a conrod lol (any other guesses welcomed!)

So which ever way the engine will be coming out, not sure if I can save the bock, but would be nice if I can.

I'm in no rush to get it fixed as its not a daily, just want to get it right.

Any advice greatly appreciated :)
 

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Looks tidy, have you driven a Quattro before, engine code's BEX 190hp denoted by the red T on the badge unless a previous owner has bought the badge off Ebay (I hate that)
 
Last edited:
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Thanks, nope the only 4wd I've had experience of is a few Land Rovers lol. I'm excited. This car scratches two itches I have, one being owning a turbo petrol car and the other a 4wd.

That said a few years ago I was a passenger in a similar age A3 3.2 Quattro and that cornered like it was on rails.

Yep is a Bex, it's totally standard, I know the previous owner and he only did 13k miles in the last 4 years and the car deffo hasn't had a hard life, although for some reason it did have a £1500 head rebuild back in 2013
 
You're in for a treat then, I love driving my Quattro, The A3 has Haldex, not permanent 4wd, it's only 4wd when the ECU says so
 
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I thought it might be fun, I've wondered for years if 4wd is worth the extra weight, but I have no doubt it will be in the Audi :)
 
Andyb5tdi said:
I thought it might be fun, I've wondered for years if 4wd is worth the extra weight, but I have no doubt it will be in the Audi :)
Click to expand...

It's only 80 kilos or thereabouts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
audi upgrades
Andyb5tdi said:
Now I'm not too sure what this is, but I'm guessing its part of a conrod lol (any other guesses welcomed!)

So which ever way the engine will be coming out, not sure if I can save the bock, but would be nice if I can.

I'm in no rush to get it fixed as its not a daily, just want to get it right.

Any advice greatly appreciated :)
Click to expand...


That's fine mate, just needs a bit of T-Cut. :D




My sister 'money shifted' her track car and put a rod through the block. It was not a pretty, or salvageable, picture inside that engine.

Should be a really interesting project and other than the engine committing seppuku, it looks a really tidy car.
 
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Will be keeping an eye on your progress, I need to change the turbo in my 1.8T so will see how you get on :happy:
 
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Had 5 minutes while it's raining so decided to find out the build options which are as follows:

PRCode: 0G1 = Gearshift lever
PRCode: 0GG = Emission standard EU4
PRCode: 0JG = Weight category front axle weight range 7
PRCode: 0YK = Weight range 10 installation control only no requirement forecast
PRCode: 1BV = Sports suspension/shock absorption
PRCode: 1KP = Disc brakes rear
PRCode: 1LT = Disc brakes front
PRCode: 1ML = Leather trimmed sports steering wheel
PRCode: 1N1 = Power steering
PRCode: 1SA = Without additional engine guard
PRCode: 2K7 = Reinforced bumpers
PRCode: 3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof)
PRCode: 3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats
PRCode: 3NZ = Rear seat bench unsplit backrest split folding
PRCode: 3Y0 = Without roll-up sun screen
PRCode: 4GP = Windshield in heat-insulating glass withsunshield and viewing window for vehicleidentification number
PRCode: 4K4 = Radio remote controlled central locking
PRCode: 4KC = Side and rear windows in heat-insulatingglass
PRCode: 4R5 = Power windows with comfort operation andcircuit breaker mechanical window regulators rear
PRCode: 4UE = Air bag for driver and front seat passenger
PRCode: 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag
PRCode: 5D1 = Carrier frequency 433.92 MHz-434.42 Mhz
PRCode: 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex
PRCode: 5TG = Decorative aluminum inserts dulling
PRCode: 6R2 = Leather gearshift boot
PRCode: 6TS = Right exterior mirror: aspherical large viewing field
PRCode: 6XD = Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated
PRCode: 7A0 = Without CD changer/CD player
PRCode: 7K0 = Without tire pressure warning light
PRCode: 7Q0 = Without navigation device
PRCode: 7X0 = Without park distance control
PRCode: 8GL = Alternator 120 A
PRCode: 8JK = Ellipsoidal headlight for driving on the left
PRCode: 8Q1 = Headlight-range adjustment
PRCode: 8Z5 = Not hot country
PRCode: 9Q2 = Multi-function display/on-board computerwith check control
PRCode: CH9 = Alloy wheels 8J x 18
PRCode: D7E = 4-cyl. gasoline engine 1.8 L/140 kW 20V turbo base engine is T0L/T8C
PRCode: E4J = S-line
PRCode: F0A = No special purpose vehicle standard equipment
PRCode: J0L = Battery 340 A (70 Ah)
PRCode: Q1D = Sports front seats
PRCode: T0L = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.8 L unit 06B.G
PRCode: U1B = Instrument insert with mph speedometer clock tachometer and trip odometer
PRCode: X2B = National sales program Great Britain
 
Finally got time to finish taking the head off last night and here's what I found:smiley::

This is from cylinder no 4:

Photo 1


Photo 3


Note the bent inlet valve and the indent on the piston

Hopefully both the head and block are savable, although still not sure yet what caused the rod/ piston to separate lol.

A couple more pictures:

Photo 2


Photo 4
 
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Looking at the photo, the other three have the same indent. I think number 4 has turned round a little making it look different from the other three.
1abfd5b10f0bd823f87bab0546d1a480.jpg



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I got number 4 piston out at the weekend and this is what I found

Photo 1


Photo 2


Photo 4


No drama as the Pistons and rods will be replaced anyway. I'm hopeful that the block is savable. Of course the crank is now a paper weight lol.

Next stage will be to get the block out and strip it, but that may be a while as I need to find somewhere to put it :tearsofjoy:
 
When I look at the photo of the crank, I can't help but notice that the con rod has mashed the reluctor ring for the engine speed sensor. Here's one that isn't mashed: http://assets.suredone.com/1517/med...-shaft-18t-amb-02-05-audi-a4-b6-genuine-3.jpg

There must have been some serious noises coming out of the engine bay before the con rod let go, I'd be interested to see the oil pick up pipe once you have the sump off.
 
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Thanks for the link Calum, much appreciated, yep I bet it made some interesting noises lol.

Is there a modified oil pick up pipe/ strainer or are they the same today as when it was built? Do the oil pumps/ chain ever fail?
 
I just cleaned the pick up that was on mine so I don't know if there's an updated/ improved version. I've never heard of an oil pump chain failing (it's not under a lot of strain) but you should replace the chain tensioner regardless of condition it's very cheap anyway. The oil pump, I would replace that, it would be foolish to do a full rebuild and not replace it.


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